[mark v]

I have a cheap Bleeder something like this I bought at Advance Auto Parts. It was like $40.

You hook a hose to the bleeder screw, that hose goes to a reservoir, another hose goes to the hand held vacuum pump, loosen the bleeder screw and you keep pumping the hand held bleeder till no more bubbles or till the fluid is clean then tighten the bleeder screw.

The reservoir is designed so you can not suck fluid into the pump.

Truly a one man job and it saves you time asking for someone to pump the brakes and will help you from damaging your Master Cylinder by pumping it past its regular brake pedal travel. Make sure you monitor your master cylinder so it doesnt run dry, if it does you have to re-bleed the system again.

Start from the farthest away brake bleeder and work your way up to the closest brake bleeder.




Here is some reasons why to change Brake fluid.
http://www.babcox.com/editorial/bf/bf40142.htm
Brake Bleeding | Advance Auto Parts
Brake Bleeding: Bleeding Brakes: Pressure Bleeding: Hydraulic Brakes: Brake Systems: Brake Lines: Master Cylinders: Brake Bleede

[Stymees'mont]

Originally Posted by mark v

I have a cheap Bleeder something like this I bought at Advance Auto Parts. It was like $40. You hook a hose to the bleeder screw, that hose goes to a reservoir, another hose goes to the hand held vacuum pump, loosen the bleeder screw and you keep pumping the hand held bleeder till no more bubbles or till the fluid is clean then tighten the bleeder screw. The reservoir is designed so you can not suck fluid into the pump. Truly a one man job and it saves you time asking for someone to pump the brakes and will help you from damaging your Master Cylinder by pumping it past its regular brake pedal travel. Make sure you monitor your master cylinder so it doesnt run dry, if it does you have to re-bleed the system again. Start from the farthest away brake bleeder and work your way up to the closest brake bleeder. Here is some reasons why to change Brake fluid. http://www.babcox.com/editorial/bf/bf40142.htm Brake Bleeding | Advance Auto Parts Brake Bleeding: Bleeding Brakes: Pressure Bleeding: Hydraulic Brakes: Brake Systems: Brake Lines: Master Cylinders: Brake Bleede

I have the same tool, but mine has a vacuum gauge on it so you can test vacuum to parts and what ever. Very handy tool.

[mark v]

Yeah I forgot to say about the guage on mine. Yes it can be used to diagnose engine leaks or faulty engine vacuum controlled parts.

[Cuda_jim]

I have that style too, have any of you all used the injector type?

I'm thinking about getting one but pushing the old fluid (& dirt) towards the master cylinder/ABS unit seems like it would make things worse.
What do you think?

Crap, tried to post a link but I don't have enough posts yet.....off to the boards

[mark v]

Pushing fluid backwards can damage the ABS.

There are other bleeders that hook up to the M/C and put pressure on the system and all you have to do is crack the bleeders and the fluid will pour out under pressure.

[Canuck623]

The new breed of Hybrid cars and truck have electric actuated braking systems. They MUST be pressure bled or you can get air into places you don't want.

[mark v]

Makes sense since I am sure they can be a nightmare to work on. I hope they used SS lines on them.

[Boghog]

I'm too old to pump a vac pump.I've got an air operated one.Works slick,but my old stand by is an empty Miller bottle 1/2 full of brake fluid and a hose.open the bleeder up and just start pumpin the pedal till the fluids clear.Simple method and never had and problems.

[mark v]

Actually you can use a big Pickle or Mayonnaise bottle too and your car to operate it for you.

Poke 2 holes in the lid.
Add one 2 foot hose that goes to the bottom about 1 inch off the bottom through the 1st hole, seal hose with silicone.
Add one 5 foot hose that goes 1 inch from the top in the 2nd hole, seal hose with silicone.

Attach the 2 foot hose to the bleeder screw, attach the other hose to a vacuum line on the engine.

When the engine is running it will pull the vacuum and suck the fluid out the bleeder.

Do at your own risk.

I have used this method to remove extra overfilled transmission fluid out the dipstick hole.

[Boghog]

Think i'll stick with my air operated one.One of my friends is liable to go reaching into the pickle jar looking for some.

[Cuda_jim]

Originally Posted by mark v

Pushing fluid backwards can damage the ABS. There are other bleeders that hook up to the M/C and put pressure on the system and all you have to do is crack the bleeders and the fluid will pour out under pressure.

Originally Posted by Canuck623

The new breed of Hybrid cars and truck have electric actuated braking systems. They MUST be pressure bled or you can get air into places you don't want.

Thanks guys, that settles it for me. Vacuum pump isn't all the hard to do, I was just looking for a better way (lazy).

[mark v]

The better way is they way you choose cause I prefer Vacuum and others prefer Pressure. they both have their advantages. I know Pressure uses more fluid.

[electro]

Originally Posted by Cuda_jim

...I'm thinking about getting one but pushing the old fluid (& dirt) towards the master cylinder/ABS unit seems like it would make things worse. What do you think?...

Well, I'm no brake expert. That said, when the calipers and wheel cylinders are retracted to allow new pads and shoes, the old fluid pushes back up into the master cylinder anyway. By removing that spent fluid (suction cylinder), then using a pressure bleeder to push new fluid into the M/C, through the lines, and into the calipers/cylinders, new fluid from top to bottom.

[mark v]

Your thinking old school systems. Back in the day it was OK to push the fluid backwards. Nowadays if you do this you can damage the ABS system by contamination.

Yes the calipers and Wheel Cylinders do push fluid back and forth through the lines during normal use but this is only just a little, it never goes back that far.

New ABS systems it is recommended to open the bleeder screw first and then push the pistons in and wheel cylinders to avoid contaminating/damaging the ABS system. Contamination just wont damage the ABS but high volumes of fluid can damage the ABS system if the fluid is pressurized (pushing the pistons in and wheel cylinders) and goes backwards since the brake system is really a 1 way system.

Originally Posted by electro

Well, I'm no brake expert. That said, when the calipers and wheel cylinders are retracted to allow new pads and shoes, the old fluid pushes back up into the master cylinder anyway. By removing that spent fluid (suction cylinder), then using a pressure bleeder to push new fluid into the M/C, through the lines, and into the calipers/cylinders, new fluid from top to bottom.

[Poppy]

As a result of this thread I bought a vauum bleeding system and used it on Thrusday. I had to replace the wheel cylinders on my windstar. Hopefully I saved myself a headache, because when I started to unscrew the brake line from the wheel cylinder, the metal line started to twist with the coupling, so rather than snap it off, I tightened it back up, and swapped the guts from the new wheel cylinder into the old one. My dad used to have a honeing tool for wheel cylinders (a tool that I don't have) but they were smoothe, and I doubt that they will leak.

Question:
Does DOT 4 brake fluid have a greenish tinge to it?
The fluid that came out was a mixture of dirty, and had a greenish tinge. My new fluid was more clear DOT 3.

[cjones]

some DOT 3 and 4 fluids are greenish even blueish but most are clear when new.

DOT 5 brake fluid is PURPLE and is NOT compatible with DOT 3 and 4.

just use what's recommended for your vehicle.

[mark v]

Yes some fluids you can not mix, also some systems can leak due to different types fluids. I always use what it says on the cap.