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12-04-2011, 09:07 AM
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#1
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busted the brake line
I already had the front to rear brake lines changed about 3 or 4 years ago. Now this one went bad. From looking at this line, is it a tough job? I don't think I can do it myself. What can I expect to pay a shop?
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12-04-2011, 11:22 AM
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#2
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From looking at that line on my 96 taurus, how hard would it be to remove it and install a new one? Can it be done without taking down the gas tank and using jack stands to raise the car?
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12-06-2011, 05:38 PM
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#3
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If you see the ends you might be able to remove it and make another one. You have to raise the car to gain clearance.
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12-13-2011, 09:18 AM
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#4
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It appears that the line runs behind the gas tank and should be able to drop out without removing the gas tank. A parts store said they would make the line for me for about 50 bucks. I have to bring them the old one but I'm afraid that it's going to fall apart when I try to remove it from that clip in the middle of the line. Also, if I disconnect that line and all the brake fluid runs out, will I have to bleed the master cylinder after I put it all back together or just the individual lines?
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12-13-2011, 07:06 PM
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#5
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Bleed the complete system
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12-13-2011, 08:10 PM
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#6
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When mine went bad, I elected to have my mechanic do mine, for a number of reasons, not the least of which, it was winter and there was snow on the ground.
You can buy straight pipe and connectors, and a double flaring tool and a pipe bender.
Also available are straight brake lines in various lengths that already have connectors on them and are already flared, and at pretty reasonable prices. You'll need a bending tool, and a good idea how long a brake line you need to get.
You can measure your current line with a length of cord. Use it to run the length of your current line, following all the bends etc.
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Caveat Emptor, I'm not a mechanic, I just play make believe, here. Consider any and all of my suggestions with that in mind.
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12-24-2011, 09:36 PM
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#7
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Thanks for the replies. I was wondering, with that broken rear brake line, if I was to slowly drive the car the few blocks it takes to get to the service station, would I continue to at least have a brake pedal with front brakes only or if I kept pushing down on that pedal, would all the fluid leave the master cylinder and then cause the front brakes not to work too?
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12-25-2011, 04:46 AM
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#8
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The master cylinder is divided in two separate systems front/back just for this problem you are having. A brake warning light may come in dash. Few blocks travel should not be a problem.
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12-25-2011, 09:50 AM
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#9
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Can I buy a flexible stainless steel braided brake line to go from one back wheel to the other? I guess it would have to be about 5 or 6 feet long. Then I wouldn't need a pipe bender and could easily route it. Would that be an acceptable way to fix it or does it have to be a hard line?
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12-25-2011, 04:34 PM
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#10
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Just stay with the hard line.
Most jobbers have various lines that are easily bent.
just measure the lenght and take a portion of the line with the fitting on it to get the proper size and diameter.
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12-27-2011, 03:55 PM
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#11
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I had the shop do the brake line. Charged me 200 for it. Not too bad I guess.
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12-28-2011, 07:47 PM
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#12
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i recently replaced some of my rusted brake lines with some copper nickel lines that i found on amazon. Here is MI the winter salt really takes a toll on the steel lines. i opted to pay a bit more but was thrilled with how easy they are to bend and flare. worth the extra money.
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12-29-2011, 05:25 AM
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#13
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Originally Posted by scottyford
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i recently replaced some of my rusted brake lines with some copper nickel lines that i found on amazon. Here is MI the winter salt really takes a toll on the steel lines. i opted to pay a bit more but was thrilled with how easy they are to bend and flare. worth the extra money.
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There is a reason why brake lines are made of steel!!!!!!!!!!!!
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12-31-2011, 11:38 AM
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#14
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Glad you got it fixed.
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12-31-2011, 05:18 PM
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#15
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Thanks, Mark. It's nice having the brakes fixed but I think it's time to bail on this car. With the rack leaking and probably my heater core too, I'm afraid to put more money in this pit. Maybe while the car is not being used, I'll see if I can get the dashboard out to reach the heater core. If I can fix that on the cheap, maybe I'll do the rack.
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01-06-2012, 11:24 AM
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#16
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I just looked at that rear brake line the mechanic did. It appears that he took the easy way out. He cut it in the middle where it was still good and patched in a piece to go across. Is that acceptable?
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01-08-2012, 09:37 AM
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#17
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It is acceptable but not common for a dealer to do a shabby job like that.
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