[MichaelJennnings]

I have a 2001 Taurus w/3.0 V-6 engine. I noticed a major loss of coolant under the car over the weekend and upon inspection it looks like the coolant is leaking from the front of the head between the head and cylinder block. Has anyone else ever had their Taurus exhibit this problem?
The engine has never been overheated and I have tried to maintain it very well.

I am a retired Ford Mechanic, but left the industry long before this car was sold so I don't have any first hand knowledge of problems like this happening.

[Dominick]

Do you have the DOHC engine engine code S
Or the Vulcan OHV engine code U
Or the Flex fuel engine code 2

[MichaelJennnings]

Sorry, I should have stated that. It is the VIN U 3.0 MFI engine. Nothing fancy.

[Dominick]

Did you look really close and see if wasn't coming from where the intake meets the cyl head.
If it is here is the procedure

1. If the lower intake manifold is not secured within four minutes, the sealant must be removed and the sealing area cleaned with metal surface cleaner. Allow to dry until there is no sign of wetness or four minutes, whichever is longer. Failure to follow this procedure can cause future oil leakage.
2. Apply a 0.20-0.23 inch (5-6 mm) bead of silicone gasket and sealant at the four cylinder block-to-cylinder head seams.
3. Install the lower intake manifold gaskets and end seals.
4. Install the intake manifold. Tighten the bolts in two steps in the sequence shown:
5. If Not probably head gasket or bolts broken

[MichaelJennnings]

Dominick,
Does the water jacket run that close to the edge of the manifold?

I will take a closer look. I will see if I can get an inspection mirror in to see if it the manifold leaking.

[MichaelJennnings]

Dominick,
It looks like this is where it is leaking. I think I will spend the $22 for a gasket kit, break out the old 3/8 burp gun and pull the manifolds. Do you have the torque specs for upper/lower bolts? I can't find them anywhere. Right now, buying a service manual is not an option. I am having to do the work myself as I have been off work for almost 1 1/2 years now and don't have the money. Fortunately, I can do the work and have the tools/equipment to do it with. But I need the specs.

Also, what does Ford recommend for the metal cleaner? Any specific products or just something like denatured alcohol?

Thanks

[Dominick]

2001 Ford Taurus 3.0L EFI 6cyl | Repair Guides | Engine Mechanical | Engine Mechanical








Ford Sable, Taurus 2000-05



Intake Manifold

• REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

:

1. 
   outlet pipe.

VIN U Engine

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions section.
2. Drain the cooling system.
3. Remove or disconnect the following:
   NOTE
   Note the position of the CMP sensor electrical connector. Installation requires that the connector be located in the same position.
   
   
   
   NOTE
   Before removing the CMP sensor, position the engine at Top Dead Center (TDC) of the No. 1 cylinder compression stroke.
   
   
   
   
   
   Negative battery cable
   
   Air cleaner and outlet tube
   
   Cruise control cable
   
   Accelerator cable and bracket
   
   Fuel lines
   
   Vacuum lines
   
   Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve
   
   EGR transducer
   
   EGR vacuum solenoid
   
   Throttle Position (TP) sensor connector
   
   Intake Air Control (IAC) valve connector
   
   Camshaft Position (CMP) sensor connector
   
   Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor connector
   
   Coolant temperature indicator sender connector
   
   Coolant hoses
   
   Upper alternator bracket
   
   Engine control sensor wiring harness and bracket
   
   Upper intake manifold
   
   
   
4. Remove or disconnect the following:
   
   
   CMP sensor and housing
   
   Spark plug wires
   
   Ignition coil
   
   Valve covers
   
   No. 3 cylinder intake valve rocker arm and pushrod
   
   Lower intake manifold
   
   
   
   Fig. Exploded view of the upper intake manifold mounting-2001-04 3.0L (VIN U) engine
   
   
   
   
   

To install:



Fig. Lower intake manifold torque sequence-2001-04 3.0L (VIN U) engine

1. Install the lower intake manifold. Use new gaskets and tighten the bolts in sequence as follows:
   1. Step 1: 15-22 ft. lbs. (20-30 Nm).
   2. Step 2: 19-24 ft. lbs. (26-32 Nm).
      NOTE
      A special Synchro Positioning tool T95T-12200-A must be used when installing the CMP sensor housing.
      
      
      
2. Attach the Synchro Position tool T95T-12200-A as follows:
   1. Engage the CMP sensor housing vane into the radial slot of the tool.
   2. Rotate the tool on the CMP sensor housing until the tool boss engages the notch in the CMP sensor housing.
   3. Install the CMP sensor housing so the drive gear engagement occurs when the arrow on the locator tool is pointed about 75 degrees counterclockwise from the rear face of the cylinder block. This step will locate the CMP sensor electrical connector in the same position as was noted on removal.
   4. Install the hold-down clamp and tighten the bolt to 14-22 ft. lbs. (19-30 Nm).
3. Remove the Synchro Position tool.
4. Install or connect the following:
   
   
   CMP sensor
   
   No. 3 cylinder intake valve rocker arm and pushrod
   
   Valve covers
   
   Ignition coil and tighten the bolts to 30-40 ft. lbs. (40-55 Nm)
   
   Spark plug wires
   
   Upper intake manifold and tighten the bolts to 15-22 ft. lbs. (20-30 Nm)
   
   Engine control sensor wiring harness and bracket
   
   Upper alternator bracket
   
   Coolant hoses
   
   Coolant temperature indicator sender connector
   
   ECT sensor connector
   
   CMP sensor connector
   
   IAC valve connector
   
   TP sensor connector
   
   EGR vacuum solenoid
   
   EGR transducer
   
   EGR valve
   
   Vacuum lines
   
   Fuel lines
   
   Accelerator cable and bracket
   
   Cruise control cable
   
   Air cleaner and outlet tube
   
   Negative battery cable
   
   
   
5. Fill the cooling system.
6. Start the engine and check for leaks and proper operation.

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions at the beginning of this section.
2. Drain the cooling system.
3. Remove or disconnect the following:
   NOTE
   Note the position of the CMP sensor electrical connector. Installation requires that the connector be located in the same position.
   
   
   
   NOTE
   Before removing the CMP sensor, position the engine at Top Dead Center (TDC) of the No. 1 cylinder compression stroke.
   
   
   
   
   
   Negative battery cable
   
   Air cleaner and outlet tube
   
   Cruise control cable
   
   Accelerator cable and bracket
   
   Fuel lines
   
   Vacuum lines
   
   Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve
   
   EGR transducer
   
   EGR vacuum solenoid
   
   Throttle Position (TP) sensor connector
   
   Intake Air Control (IAC) valve connector
   
   Camshaft Position (CMP) sensor connector
   
   Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor connector
   
   Coolant temperature indicator sender connector
   
   Coolant hoses
   
   Upper alternator bracket
   
   Engine control sensor wiring harness and bracket
   
   Upper intake manifold
   
   
   
4. Remove or disconnect the following:
   
   
   CMP sensor and housing
   
   Spark plug wires
   
   Ignition coil
   
   Valve covers
   
   No. 3 cylinder intake valve rocker arm and pushrod
   
   Lower intake manifold
   
   
   

To install:



Fig. Intake manifold torque sequence-3.0L (VIN U) engine

1. Install the lower intake manifold. Use new gaskets and tighten the bolts in sequence as follows:
   1. Step 1: 15-22 ft. lbs. (20-30 Nm).
   2. Step 2: 19-24 ft. lbs. (26-32 Nm).
      NOTE
      A special Synchro Positioning tool T95T-12200-A must be used when installing the CMP sensor housing.
      
      
      
2. Attach the Synchro Position tool T95T-12200-A as follows:
   1. Engage the CMP sensor housing vane into the radial slot of the tool.
   2. Rotate the tool on the CMP sensor housing until the tool boss engages the notch in the CMP sensor housing.
   3. Install the CMP sensor housing so the drive gear engagement occurs when the arrow on the locator tool is pointed about 75 degrees counterclockwise from the rear face of the cylinder block. This step will locate the CMP sensor electrical connector in the same position as was noted on removal.
   4. Install the hold-down clamp and tighten the bolt to 14-22 ft. lbs. (19-30 Nm).
3. Remove the Synchro Position tool.
4. Install or connect the following:
   
   
   CMP sensor
   
   No. 3 cylinder intake valve rocker arm and pushrod
   
   Valve covers
   
   Ignition coil and tighten the bolts to 30-40 ft. lbs. (40-55 Nm)
   
   Spark plug wires
   
   Upper intake manifold and tighten the bolts to 15-22 ft. lbs. (20-30 Nm)
   
   Engine control sensor wiring harness and bracket
   
   Upper alternator bracket
   
   Coolant hoses
   
   Coolant temperature indicator sender connector
   
   ECT sensor connector
   
   CMP sensor connector
   
   IAC valve connector
   
   TP sensor connector
   
   EGR vacuum solenoid
   
   EGR transducer
   
   EGR valve
   
   Vacuum lines
   
   Fuel lines
   
   Accelerator cable and bracket
   
   Cruise control cable
   
   Air cleaner and outlet tube
   
   Negative battery cable
   
   
   
5. Fill the cooling system.
6. Start the engine and check for leaks and proper operation.

Lower Manifold

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions section.
2. Remove the upper intake manifold.
3. Disconnect the fuel tube spring lock coupling.
4. Drain and recycle the engine coolant.
5. Remove the push rods.
6. Disconnect the Fuel Rail Pressure (FRP) sensor electrical and vacuum connections.
7. Disconnect the fuel injector electrical connectors.
8. Disconnect the heater hose and Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sender electrical connector.
9. Disconnect the ECT sensor electrical connector and the degas bottle hose.
10. Disconnect the upper radiator hose from the thermostat housing.
11. Remove the bolts and the lower intake manifold.
12. Remove the intake manifold gaskets and the end seals.

To install:



radiator hose to the thermostat housing.

1. Connect the ECT sensor electrical connector and the degas bottle hose.
2. Connect the heater hose and the ECT sender electrical connector.
3. Connect the fuel injector electrical connectors.
4. Connect the FRP sensor electrical and vacuum connections.
5. Install the push rods.
6. Connect the fuel tube spring lock coupling.
7. Install the upper intake manifold.
8. Fill and bleed the engine cooling system

Upper Manifold

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions section.
2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
3. Disconnect the tubes, loosen the clamps and remove the air cleaner outlet pipe.
4. Remove the snow shield.
5. Disconnect the accelerator cable, cruise control cable and throttle return spring from the throttle body.
6. Remove the bolts and position the accelerator cables and bracket aside.
7. Disconnect the Throttle Position (TP) sensor and the Intake Air Control (IAC) electrical connectors.
8. Detach the harness retainer from the throttle body stud bolt.
9. Disconnect the vacuum hose and the Evaporative Emissions (EVAP) return tube.
10. Remove the upper intake manifold support bracket bolt and nut.
11. Position the bracket and harness aside.
12. Loosen the nut and disconnect the Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) tube from the EGR valve.
13. Disconnect the Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) tube from the upper intake manifold.
14. Disconnect the fuel supply manifold pressure sensor vacuum tube.
15. Disconnect the PCV tube from the PCV valve and remove the tube.
16. Disconnect the EGR vacuum regulator solenoid and Intake Manifold Tuning valve (IMTV) electrical connectors.
17. Detach the pin-type harness retainer from the upper intake manifold.
18. Detach the spark plug wire holder from the valve cover stud and disconnect the radio interference capacitor electrical connector.
19. Remove the two nuts and position the EGR vacuum regulator solenoid and bracket aside.
20. Remove the bolts and the upper intake manifold.

To install:

NOTE
Clean all of the sealing surfaces. Inspect the upper intake manifold gaskets and install new gaskets as necessary.

1. <LI sizcache="0" sizset="69">Install the upper intake manifold. Tighten bolts in 2 steps in the sequence shown:
   1. Step 1: hand-tighten the bolts.
   2. Step 2: Tighten the bolts to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
      
      

[Dominick]

This info is from autozone.
That's the only place I could find it.
Dom.
2005 has a different torque spec so I deleted them since you have a 2001.

[MichaelJennnings]

Dom,
Thanks for the information. It helps a great deal to have it in front of you when doing this kind of work. I am familiar with the removal and installation process. Have had to replace many injectors on the 5.0 T-Birds when Ford recalled them in the last 80's early 90's. As I said, I am a retired mechanic and did work for Ford. Blew my back out under the dash of a Tempo of all cars. Pinched my sciatic nerve and crushed ligament L2-L3. Was in a lot of pain for several years afterwards but have since moved on. I still tinker with my cars doing what I can myself to keep cost down. I still have all of my tools from when I left the industry so you can imagine what I have in my Snap On Roll Cab and Top Box. It's full.

Thanks for the help!

[MichaelJennnings]

Originally Posted by Dominick

Did you look really close and see if wasn't coming from where the intake meets the cyl head. If it is here is the procedure If the lower intake manifold is not secured within four minutes, the sealant must be removed and the sealing area cleaned with metal surface cleaner. Allow to dry until there is no sign of wetness or four minutes, whichever is longer. Failure to follow this procedure can cause future oil leakage. Apply a 0.20-0.23 inch (5-6 mm) bead of silicone gasket and sealant at the four cylinder block-to-cylinder head seams. Install the lower intake manifold gaskets and end seals. Install the intake manifold. Tighten the bolts in two steps in the sequence shown: If Not probably head gasket or bolts broken

Dom,
After much consideration and tear down on the engine, I still could not positively identify the leak. I decided recently that my best option at this point, due to mileage, is drop a short block in the car. I just had the trans done last year and it only has a couple of thousand miles on it. Putting an engine in it will give me several more years out of the car. This way I'm not trying to patch an engine that has 100,000 miles on it and cause other failures within the engine.

Thank you for all your help!

[jfjohn]

Maybe a heater hose or another hose near by is squirting antifreeze on where you see it leaking so it appears to be leaking from somewhere it's not. Maybe the hose only opens up under certain high pressure/heat conditions. Have you changed the thermostat? Maybe the thermostat gasket is leaking? Check out this guy's story - Coolant leak on 2001 Taurus.Coolant seems to be - FixYa

[jwko]

If you are concerned the engine is leaking on the top end, it really makes no sense to drop in a short block and then go back with your original top end.

[MichaelJennnings]

Originally Posted by jfjohn

Maybe a heater hose or another hose near by is squirting antifreeze on where you see it leaking so it appears to be leaking from somewhere it's not. Maybe the hose only opens up under certain high pressure/heat conditions. Have you changed the thermostat? Maybe the thermostat gasket is leaking? Check out this guy's story - Coolant leak on 2001 Taurus.Coolant seems to be - FixYa

Heater hoses were my first though along with the core. My sister has an 02 Sable and the metal tube going to the core sprang a leak and did it ever spew coolant all over the place. When I got home and was checking the problem out, I had the cap off, no pressure, and water was still pouring out of the engine. I can see no freeze plugs blown, leaking hoses, water pump issues or any of the normal problems. The stat is a moot point on this engine since it is at the rear of the engine and my leak was at the front. But, thank you for the thoughts. I have the engine almost half way disassembled and could only find some dried coolant in a few areas nothing specific. I could put it all back together and see if I have fixed it or not, but as I said, I have almost 100,000 miles on the car and I am a field service tech. I can dirve upwards of 250 miles daily and need it to be dependable. With the new trans, having a new engine in it will keep the car on the road for several more years without having to worry about it.