Resolved: Still battling electrical problems!

GoalieFergy53 · 08-27-2010, 03:39 PM

Last Christmas eve, on the way home from Grandma's house my bus died. Battery was dead. I charged it enough to get home and then let it fully charge. It continued to give me issues, so the battery and alternator were replaced. Before those were done but after the Christmas eve incident, the battery level would be just slightly past the left white line of the battery dash gauge and then lose charge. Now with the new battery and alternator, the new battery continues to drain and never gets past the "N" of the gauge.

Where are the engine and chassis grounds located so I can check and clean them to see if they might be the problem?

sal · 08-27-2010, 08:12 PM

Did you check the ground to the body? make sure its clean and tight...follow the ground cable off the batt, shouldn't be too far along.

Poppy · 08-28-2010, 01:17 PM

Follow the fat cable from the (neg) pole of the battery to where it attaches to the engine.

mark v · 08-28-2010, 02:04 PM

I wouldnt trust a stock gauge, hook a volt meter on it to see what it is really reading.

just_ed · 08-28-2010, 02:12 PM

if all other fixes don't work, try pulling the fuses, if one is drawing it should spark while pulling it or reinstalling it. it might me a sign of a short, stuck relay or something left on gives you a lead on the circuit I have a tool that tells the draw on the circuit, installs where the fuse belongs you might be able to borrow on or even use an amp meter instead

GoalieFergy53 · 09-01-2010, 06:19 PM

Ok, so I was able to throw myself under my bus today and work some more. I found a couple more chassis grounds that were covered in dirt, so I got those all clean. I pulled fuses to look for sparks and nothing. I did pick up a Digital Multimeter. Since I'm new to electrical diagnosising, which of the tests for the multimeter should I use? AC/DC Voltage Measurement, Resistance Measurement (OHMS), Diode Test, Continuity Test or AC/DC Current Measurement (AMPS)?

Also, I still haven't been able to find the engine ground. Where would that be located on a 460? That's the last major ground I want to make sure I clean.

I forgot to mention before, along with the battery gauge being low, the AMP light is also on. I've wondered since I replaced my alternator if I should have also replaced the wiring harness that connects to the alternator also.

Jonzo77 · 09-01-2010, 06:27 PM

all cars, as far as i know, run DC voltage only.
the main ground from engine to battery is on the passenger side, under where the smog pump should be. right in front of the motor mount.
did you have the new alt tested where you bought it?

GoalieFergy53 · 09-02-2010, 03:14 PM

I'm not seeing a way to even see the engine ground, so that's that for now. Found a couple more body grounds I cleaned up.

Unfortunately this is a good learning lesson for me. One thing I did NOT do before installing the new alternator was get it checked. I bought it remanufactured from a dealer so made and ASSumption which I now am dealing with. I think I'll be taking it out and getting it checked. Not looking forward to the PITA taking it out is, but gotta be done!

RollinWOT · 09-02-2010, 07:16 PM

sometimes if an alternator is replaced or bebuilt like the one you bought, the techs will just rebuild them, and if thats the case, the rectifier bridge inside the alt. might be fried and not letting a charge through, or there could be a short in the stator. Either way, check all the chassis grounds, cables, etc. and if nothing else works, i suggest getting a new Bosch alternator, which have never given me a problem, as is with all Bosch products. Hope this helps!

Poppy · 09-03-2010, 04:53 AM

Now that you have a digital volt meter, set it on DC volts and give us some voltage readings.

How to check your battery
HowTo Check your battery

Jonzo77 · 09-03-2010, 02:39 PM

Originally Posted by RollinWOT

sometimes if an alternator is replaced or bebuilt like the one you bought, the techs will just rebuild them, and if thats the case, the rectifier bridge inside the alt. might be fried and not letting a charge through, or there could be a short in the stator. Either way, check all the chassis grounds, cables, etc. and if nothing else works, i suggest getting a new Bosch alternator, which have never given me a problem, as is with all Bosch products. Hope this helps!

the first part of this is what i was getting at. a lot of times the Voltage regulator doesn't work properly. more often than people realize...
oh! and for those of you that know, when did they switch over to an internal VR?

Dominick · 09-03-2010, 04:23 PM

He stated above that he didn't replace the connector to the Alternator that thing always did cause problems.
The one that had the stud made on it for the internal regulator was really a problem as well as
the larger plug.
My best guess on the internal regulators would be the late 1980's.
Some of them the Mitubitzi(spelling) were really an intergral part of the Alt and was darn near foolish to to try to replace because of the price and availability of tool to repair them.

GoalieFergy53 · 09-27-2010, 07:45 PM

Today I got a chance to take the alternator out and took it to Auto Zone to have it checked. Sure enough, it's a bad alternator. Tomorrow gonna call about getting it replaced under warranty. Definitely learned a valuable, time-saving lesson: ALWAYS have remanufactured parts tested prior to installation!

Dominick · 09-27-2010, 07:51 PM

Thanks for your reply

GoalieFergy53 · 09-27-2010, 09:36 PM

After doing some thinking this evening, I'm gonna call around some shops locally and get rebuild quotes. For the extra $$ spent to rebuild it and the time saved by doing so, it offsets the option of waiting a week or two to receive another remanufactured unit and hoping it works.

Dominick · 09-28-2010, 03:22 AM

Good Luck

Ashzo77 · 09-28-2010, 03:59 PM

ford alternators are extremely easy to rebuild yourself. as long as you have air tools to remove the pulley nut...

GoalieFergy53 · 09-28-2010, 05:28 PM

Issue not resolved yet! Took the alternator to "The Rebuilder" today. He gave it a clean bill of health with no repairs needed. Sounds to me like Auto Zone tried to take me for a ride to buy a new one. The Rebuilder suggested checking the wiring to the alternator. Tomorrow I'm gonna get under the bus and see how difficult it would be to replace the wiring with the connections for the alternator.

GoalieFergy53 · 10-12-2010, 05:57 PM

Just got a chance to follow the wiring to see where all it goes. Here are two pictures of the suspected wiring harness to the alternator (highlighted in green and pictured on the driver's side behind the headlight):

Does anyone know the particular name for harness that harness (#F5UU 14B060 N160C /EF)? What is the part that the harness bolts onto (it has two bolts coming out of it circled in green)?

Also, does anyone know what the name of (#F5UU 14300 N160C /DC) is and where it runs to?

Dominick · 10-12-2010, 06:23 PM

on the 14b060 disregard the n160c the #to change over will be F5UU14B060EF should be part of your negative battery cable.
Same on the F5UU14300DC disregard the n160c should be the positive cable battery to starter relay.
I'll try to check further for you.
You will have to call your ford dealer to change the part#S over.
The negative cable assy is 89.11.
The positive cable assy is 168.61.
you may go aftermaket just for the cable only.
these are assemblies.