[Corrado]

Cant figure this problem out with my car. While driving the car for while and until the motor gets to driving temp. Anytime I arrive to a stop in "Drive" the car will bounce at idle, almost feels like someones pushing against the car. If i put the car in neutral or park it smooths out and its unoticeable, but I know it's still doing it just not as dramatic. Right away when i give it gas it drives fine, there's no hessitation, has plenty of power.
I believe it was a vaccum leak and replaced a hose that was sucking flat at the top of the intake manifold.. didnt notice any dramatic change. The car also has no catalytic converter as i was told, but it's still underneath the car, maybe it was just ripped out and they left the housing for it, idk. Don't know if this would cause a problem as both o2 sensors are still there, but with no cat.

[Super64]

Is the check engine light on?

If so can you pull the codes and post them here? You can go to any of the major parts houses and they should be able to tell you the code for free.

Also, there is a sensor called the Idle Air Control Valve, it's silver and sits on the top of the engine. It controls how much air is put into the engine at idle. When the car is running rough, tape this sensor with a wrench.

If the engine surges then it is possible that you have a bad idle air control valve. You may not always get a check engine light for a bad IAC.

If you want to see if the cats are the problem, you can remove the flexible portion of the exhaust pipe just behind the downpipe and start the car. If it doesn't do it then you likely have an issue with a blocked cat.

[mattd3]

I've got an '03 Escape V6 with 156K+ on it and have recently gone through a series of problems including misfires though my issues seemed to be related more to rainy days.

When was the last tune-up, plug change?
Changing the plugs isn't all that tough though you do need to remove the intake manifold. Doing it yourself will be a lot cheaper.

As part of my attempt to fix my V6 Escape I replaced the idle air control and the throttle position sensor, both easy fixes. The Escape's idle improved with both of those replacements though those weren't the ultimate fix for my problem.

I also had an '02 Escape with the 4 and that one had what sounds like the same problem you've got only more so. When the 4 got to running temp sometimes it would idle so bad I would have to keep my foot on the gas or it would die. I replaced the idle air control - problem solved.

[Corrado]

I havn't taken it down to get the codes read in a while. The engine light is burnt out since it's always on cuz of the cat converter delete. I've replaced the EGR valve, IAC, spark plugs, Ignition coils, and a few other minor things. After replacing one of the vacuum hoses on the top of the manifold that was sucking flat, the problem seemed to die down a little, so idk i'm still stuck on a hard to find vacuum leak somewhere.

[phantom]

Did you disconnect the battery to clear the adaptive statagy ?

[Kruser]

Originally Posted by Corrado

I havn't taken it down to get the codes read in a while. The engine light is burnt out since it's always on cuz of the cat converter delete. I've replaced the EGR valve, IAC, spark plugs, Ignition coils, and a few other minor things.

Getting the codes read should be one of the first things you need to do.
You, and your wallet, will not like my answer, but until you get your converter replaced and everything is working again, your Escape will never go into closed loop. Only when you go into closed loop can you truly trouble-shoot your ve-hicle.

(Purposely misspelled a few words to reduce highlighted advertising)

[Corrado]

I've never disconnected the battery while doing work on it lol. The car sat for 2 years and the guy working on it decided to rip out the converter since it was clogged; thus why i started workin on it myself. I have gotten the codes read before for engine missfires before i did the coil work, but any codes leading towards a missing cat through emissions I ignore. By "Loop" does that mean for all codes to read properly for the computer to read more effectively?

[Super64]

Woops. Double Post.

[Super64]

Yes.

In order to get the correct operating mode from the PCM all of the sensors must be within normal parameters.

You should disconnect the battery to reset the PCM if you do not have access to a scan tool.

There is no way to delete the cats from the PCM programming. You could use a spark plug fowler on the aft 02 sensors to trick the PCM into thinking that they are working. This may be illegal in some states/areas so you do this at your own risk.

In some states you may need to check into getting an emissions waiver to do this since the cost of the repairs exceeded the value of the car.

[Corrado]

I know something is missing down there, but usually on a cat delete it's noticeable and there's a straight pipe, but the housing is still there, so i never looked into it. I know something is gone down there though as the car sounds awesome, and the annoying beeping sound as the car starts up which i think would be the engine light, but the bulb is burnt out.

[Kruser]

Originally Posted by Super64

There is no way to delete the cats from the PCM programming. You could use a spark plug fowler on the aft 02 sensors to trick the PCM into thinking that they are working. This may be illegal in some states/areas so you do this at your own risk. In some states you may need to check into getting an emissions waiver to do this since the cost of the repairs exceeded the value of the car.

The double-fouler adapters can work, but in the way you are mentioning they are illegal in all states. Of course, some states, like the one I live in, have absolutely no emission or safety checks.
As far as an emission waiver, his vehicle is not a '79 Volare that the factory has long forgotten about. Since the catalytic converter used on this '02 Escape was used by a few vehicles for several years, a waiver probably won't be granted and he'd probably have to buy a new converter. In a couple of states, the mandate would be to buy this directly from Ford. A couple of years ago, I saw a perfectly good Taurus scrapped because Ford wanted about $1500 for a converter. That is a terrible shame.
There are laws against this also, but if the owner could find a good used converter from the same make and model inexpensively from a salvage yard.......
Well, I better stop adding any more to that thought.
To the OP, you need to get your check engine light fixed. If you have a bad coil, a mis-firing plug or a stuck fuel injector and your check-engine light is blinking, it means you need to get something fixed immediately. Without a check-engine light, how would you know?

[Corrado]

Okay guys I appreciate the concern, but I'm not going to put a converter back on this thing.

I've had it read before with cat delete when coils were missfireing and it read them fine. Anything dramatic enough through injectors, coils that are working ineffectively will build enough memory on the pc to read the code.

Other codes related to emissions though can be faulty because of the cat delete.

Like stated before my only prob is the idle is jerky only in drive. The car has oil...more than enough power (smokes all 4 wheels somehow)..Not worried about any major repair. Any further suggestions related to a jerky idle without codes from a computer will be appreciated.

[Corrado]

I forgot to mention that when the car is hot and i turn it off while it can be pretty hard to start. The car will still start, but takes a while. This has also leaded me to thinking it's a vacuum leak. Can someone tell me where majority vacuum leaks come from this motor? All i know is the one hose above the manifold.

[Poppy]

Howto locate a vacuum leak
http://www.fordforumsonline.com/foru...k.html#post423