[Pete102580]

I don't have enough experience yet with this car to really know what's hot and what's not.... anyways:

I had a 3 core radiator in the garage i threw in the other day as long as i had things apart... took the car into town tonight & it's probably 5 or 6 miles each way, 45mph most of the way, a hair under 60 degrees outside. it was warmed up before i started (was doing valve adjustments)

my temp sits right about 210. doesn't matter much- sitting at a stoplight for a few mins, or bumming down the road.

are these motors supposed to run that hot? i'm almost afraid to take it out on a hot day. i'm running a 50/50 mix. more water?

i don't have a fan shroud. did a 64 come with one? i've heard of people running them. aftermarket? make one?

thanks!
pete

[printman31]

I did a quick search on your fan shroud..

Classic Vintage Ford Falcon Mechanical Parts

Discount Auto Radiators - 1964 Ford Falcon Base 8 Cyl 4.7L Fan Shroud

You can also go with an elec fan.. That would probably help more than anything else..

If you go that route. I came across a forum where a member designed his own shroud with intricate details on how to do it.. I'll send the link to Mark to see if he'll post it up. I don't want to advertise another forum out of common courtesy..

[Pete102580]

i'm not sure the car could handle an electric fan. i have to give the it gas to blink the blinkers, lol. one day, far off in the future when i have the 302 ready all that will get fixed. for now- maybe i'll pick up one of those shrouds.

thanks for the links, i need to build up my ford bookmarks.

pete

[just_ed]

it shouldn't get above 195

[lincolndriver]

check the ovious first, look for a collapsed or pinched water hose. they are hardest to find. normaally they dont appear at idle. if you check while cold, they will feel spungy.
You should have a down draft radiator. did you change to a side draft? then check your thermostat.

[Pete102580]

Originally Posted by lincolndriver

check the ovious first, look for a collapsed or pinched water hose. they are hardest to find. normaally they dont appear at idle. if you check while cold, they will feel spungy. You should have a down draft radiator. did you change to a side draft? then check your thermostat.

it could probably use some new hoses, they look to have about 20 years on them. they're hard to feel around, because of the springs inside- makes the whole thing feel spongy/lumpy.


edit--- sidedraft/downdraft.. i don't know that terminology but im assuming its in reference to how the water flows through the radiator... if that's the case, it's a downdraft. the 3 core physically looks just like the 2 core i took out. same mounting points and all. I assumed it came out of a v8 falcon/mustang.

pete

[lincolndriver]

ok if you still have springs in the hoses and you cant collapse them when they are cold they could be ok. next with the water temp hot, feel the radiator core or the upper and lower hoses. if the top hose is hot and the lower is cold then check your thermostat.
hope this helps

[FORDBOYpete]

I run most of my engines over +200 F using 198*F Tstats, 50/50 long life coolant, aluminum radiators (if I can) a good 13-14 lb cap & a closed recapture
system/ set up. Better performance, longer engine life, more fuel efficiency less deposit build up, more heat in the winter, with no ill effects/problems in engines yet, are why I have been doing this. It works for me.

Newest I have is 1996 3.0L V6 and oldest a 72 D2VE -385 series 460cid. V8.
All are well over 100,000 mi, some over 200,000 mi. I've been doing this ever since I discovered 198* T Stats made of Stainless by Robertshaw, which have been OEM FoMoCo spec since 1980's.

Yes, I do have to keep up with my cooling systems more on "GP" but more upkeep is what gets more & better engine performance & engine life, at least in my opinion.
ALSO. . Make sure your wiring is not crossing wires from your temp sender
& don't have any interference from heavy wires like alternetor or other big service 12v main harnesse wiress.

CIAO
FBp

[just_ed]

the only prob I see with that is when something does go wrong its ususlly too late... with a 160-180 you have time to get somewhere safe or just get somewhere I take long drives where there is nothing around just a little insurance

[Pete102580]

welp, i picked up a 180 t-stat... to my surprise, the one in the car is a 160. i boiled them both on the stove and they both operate as they should... should i keep the 160 in? at this point it wouldn't matter either way i don't think as the problem isn't warming up, its getting too damn hot.

i can hear the water sizzle/boil in the hoses- maybe i have a blockage somewhere? i took the car on a 30 mile trip in the blazing heat and the highest she got was 210~215 (hard to read on that little bugger). i thought for sure she was going to boil over on the trip, only one way to find out, lol.. i carry a couple gallons of water/coolant just in case.

the hoses seem fine, but im going to order a set just for good measure.

maybe my belt is slipping? doubt it, there's no belt dust... hmm.

i guess she just likes to be hot....

you guys ever try anything like watter-wetter?

pete

[just_ed]

might be the water pump, check your mix on anti freeze and check to see if you might be running lean, and you may need your rad flushed at a rad shop

[yank with ute]

Originally Posted by lincolndriver

You should have a down draft radiator. did you change to a side draft? then check your thermostat.

Man, the things you learn on this board. "down draft" and "side draft" are carb terms, not radiator. Newer cars have "cross flow" radiators, NOT " side draft".


As for what is causing the engine to run hot:

#1 DUH! What sort of MECHANINCAL shape is the engine? Heat is caused by the combustion of fuel, is the timing correct on your engine? That's the first cause of over heating. Incorrect timing, due to improper positioning of the distributor and.or worn timing chain comes to mind.


#2 Spark plugs, can't believe how many Falcons I have seen since 1960 running Champion plugs that are about a doozen heat range steps from what Ford called for in the Falcon engine. It came to the point that as soon as I discovered Champion plugs in a car I had bought I'd automatically change to Autolite! (Just obtained a Chebbie Cavalier and guess what brand plugs was in it? Can't change them though as someone must have put one plug in with an impact wrench!)


#2 What has been in the engine block as coolant? City water? That's ususlly the cause as city water, and even worse, well water, is full of non-water "stuff" (desolved chemicals, calcium, rust, etc.) that clogs up the water passages inside the block and head. Sort of like what happens to the pipes in your house after 30 years of use (if you are lucky, 15-20 if you are not.)

#3 Is the V-belt slipping? Look for a hard surface on the side of the belt that comes into contact with the pulleys.

#4 Cracked block or head? Pressure check the engine.

Yes, hoses can lead to higher temps but start thinking about the MECHANICAL reasons the engine is running hot.

But what do I know, I've never had a "Falcon six" engine run above 190 degrees in 50 years...

Got to thinking about this later in the day: Who says your temp gauge is reading correctly? That's the problem that is surfacing more and more thanks to all that crap coing into the country from China. That company never has had quality control that was up to US standards (until the last decades then US standards went to H**L!) and now that people in the US are buying their junk, which drove decent insturment makers out of business, they don't care if the product works correctly. They have the market.

If you have an older S-W temp gauge, which I doubt, you would probably not see such a high reading. I seriously suggest that if you want to keep using the temp gauge you have as refference to first make certain it is reading correctly. A good radiator shop SHOULD be able to deterine if the readings are correct.

Yes, it costs money, but so does having the engine break down out in the middle of nowhere...

[Pete102580]

sorry guys, been taking a break from the falcon a bit to work on other projects.... coming back to the falcon now- i haven't done much. put a new tstat in, and have a new water pump i haven't put in yet.

i usually only drive the falcon to work on occasion, which is just a long enough drive to get up to about 210 or so. last week i was forced to come home, and turn around go back out for puppy classes. the car maintained 230 for most of the trip to class and back.

Mechanical condition- I'm going to have to find some local help with that. I wouldn't know how to use a timing light if my life depended on it. the only thing i "know" is advice i got from work... put it on a hill, turn the dizzy till she pings, then back it off till it stops.

when i had the head off, things looked ok, nothing really seemed to be a cause for concern. water passages looked good.

i'll see if i can find someone local to lend a hand... i don't need two money pits. if it's more than an afternoon in the garage with someone that knows what they're doing with this old stuff, im leaving it as is till she fails- then moving forward with the 302c/c4.

pete

[just_ed]

i'll see if i can find someone local to lend a hand... i don't need two money pits. if it's more than an afternoon in the garage with someone that knows what they're doing with this old stuff, im leaving it as is till she fails- then moving forward with the 302c/c4.

pete[/QUOTE]



as did I, actually mine was making noise, found the parts and put it together


now I am still trying to get the carbs tuned together

[lincolndriver]

Originally Posted by yank with ute

Man, the things you learn on this board. "down draft" and "side draft" are carb terms, not radiator. Newer cars have "cross flow" radiators, NOT " side draft".

yank, Thanks for the noted oversite, I stand corrected...

[lincolndriver]

Originally Posted by Pete102580

i'm not sure the car could handle an electric fan. i have to give the it gas to blink the blinkers, lol. one day, far off in the future when i have the 302 ready all that will get fixed. for now- maybe i'll pick up one of those shrouds. thanks for the links, i need to build up my ford bookmarks. pete

pete, I have a 63 comet with a factory v8. I had to replace the headlight assembly on the passenger side and i found out that the v8's are different than the l-6. I guess its due to the factory battery size difference. just something to watch out for

[yank with ute]

More like generator/altenator (if it applies) output.

First hand experiemce: Inherited a base model 1970 Pinto and put a heated rear window kit in it. Everything worked correctly electrically when the heat element was not on. Turn it on and there was not enought amps left to power the turn signals. Had to increase engine speed to get both to work at the same time.

Basically what I am saying is the set up you have may not put out enough amps to do what you want. Change to a gen/alt that puts out more amps at normal driving sppeds and all will work as expected.

[Pete102580]

i replaced the flasher and it flashes fine now. a smidge slower at idle but hey- what i can i expect out of this thing? if i could hook up a better generator or switch to an alternator for less than $75ish... i'll go for it just for the ability to run an e-fan. any tips on the swap?

car's still drying out... i left it outside with the top down and a monsoonish rain came through town... been in the garage carpet-less for weeks now,
pete

[Ashzo77]

i'm not sure if it was suggested before, but i would try a thicker oil. it helps soak up and dissipate heat...
at least that's what i've been told by many people

[yank with ute]

Very surprised that no one has pointed out this: How do you know the engine is running at 210 DEGREES as the stock temp gauge is not marked in degrees?

If you are giving the temp reading frm an aftermarket temp gauge HOW DO YOU KNOW THE GAUGE IS READING CORRECTLY?

You have stated that you have varified the conditon of the 160 and 180 stats by boiling wter on a stove, but did you varify the aftermarket gauge is reading correctly? Let me guess, no you did not.

Another guess, you are using one of those #&*#@ Made in China Super Pro gauges. well, they aren't worth one tenth of the retail price. I have seen the same complaint on boards for Fords and Chevies, "My engine is running at 3000 degrees, what's wrong...", the #&*#@ Made in China Sun Pro gauge and sending unit are crap, that's what is wrong.



On the lighter side, you also state that the car has been sitting for some time/not being driven often. Have you also noticed a drastic lose of power? If the exhaust system has become plugged (and varmits buld nests in strange places, the spent gases aren't flowing correctly which in turn causes the engine to overheat.

Been there, done that with a factory "H" pipe I bought at a swap meet and installed on my 5 liter Mustang. Whatever was in the pipe worked loose and shut down the flow, got to the point one header was glowing red. Got great gas milage but won't get out of it's own way until whatever it was dislodged and the gases flowed freely.

But as i stated elsewhere, if you think the engine is running at 210 have a radiator shop vafiry the reading. Yes, it costs money to do so but what's a burnt out engine going to cost you?