352 questions

galaxieracer27 · 07-12-2010, 08:16 PM

hey i have a 64 galaxie 500 xl with a 352 big block 2bbl iv heard that it comes stock at 250 but i want to get more! i have a 390 4bbl cast intake, a 600edlebrock carb, a open K&N air filter, and headers how much hp will i get with those parts? i will be porting and polishing the intake, but iv heard that the 390, and 352s had bad intake designs, would i be alot beter off with a edlebrock aluminum intake?

Canuck623 · 07-12-2010, 10:44 PM

Headers and the 4 BBL carb will get you maybe another 35 to 40 HP. An Edelbrock intake will net you even more. Best HP gain would be with a cam switch. Good intake and cam with the headers might see 350HP.

Lip Ripper · 07-13-2010, 04:03 AM

I too owned a 64 XL with a 352. I never understood why the top of the line sport model Galaxie came with that option.

Bolt the stuff on and you'll notice the difference. Along with the internal combustion you are pumping air so allowing more air in and more out will give you more power. Good luck and let's see some pix.

LR

MBDiagMan · 07-13-2010, 10:11 AM

If you want the car to be more fun to drive, modify for low and midrange torque, NOT maximum horsepower. Even the 352 was a torque monster. Use long tube headers and it will add torque throughout the entire RPM range. You will feel a little more torque even.

That engine had a four barrel from the factory and the intake was virtually the same as a 390 intake.

These engines had limted oiling capabilities. Modifying them for running high RPM is not a good plan. Adding torque is the way to go.

Remember, torque makes a car fun to drive, while horsepower wins races.

Enjoy

lincolndriver · 07-13-2010, 11:56 AM

I would definitely get rid of the cast iron intake. any aluminum intake will result in at least a 50lb loss in weight

TBIRD430 · 07-13-2010, 12:19 PM

And a new set of Edd'y aluminum heads would be a sure way to make everything else come together and build some SERIOUS POWER....

galaxieracer27 · 07-13-2010, 01:48 PM

thanks i am probably just gona use the cast 4 bbl for now so i can but on the edlebrock carb and this winter i am planning on pulling the motor and rebuilding it so then i will probably buy and aluminum 4bbl n a big cam and i will probably put new pistons in and maybe the aluminum heads it deoend how much cash i have becuase i know most aluminum heads arent cheap thanks you guys have been alot of help

Lip Ripper · 07-14-2010, 03:35 AM

Doc, you specifically named "long tube" headers. I'm curious about this. I am trying to decide which way to go with headers on my 66. The long tube versions hang low and everyone bitches about them dragging. The only short tubes available are the Tri-y from FPA. I posted a thread asking for input from FPA owners and got zero response. How can they be so popular if knowone on here is running them? How much compromise is there running the short headers? Obviously two 1 3/4 tubes into a collector won't flow as good as four.

LR

6Dsick · 07-14-2010, 05:30 AM

Here's the sad truth. 250HP is a huge overstatement. I tuned my timing in on a chassis dyno and ended up with 170Hp and 230Tq at the wheels. That's a balanced/blueprinted forged bottom bored .090, Mad Dog longtubes, Performance distributors dizzy, E-fan, Holley 750 (secondaries did not open, spring was to stiff), FMX trans (eats 25hp, C6 takes about 60hp).

The key to opening these motors up is FLOW. Edelbrock heads and intake, and a big cam, profile of your choice. I have all factory top end including cam. The aluminum top end is coming soon. The tuner at the local dyno shop is very experienced and specializes in Fords. He claims with my proposed set up he will be able to safely put 400HP to the ground and still have room for a 100 shot of spray.

Another easy way to put some pep in your step is with a higher gear ratio ex- (I have 3.00 and I'm changing out for 3.73's) Lower top end but you get there a bit quicker.

MBDiagMan · 07-14-2010, 05:56 AM

Yes indeed making power is about FLOW. In the case of these engines, however, don't try to build a high RPM screamer. Except for the true High Performance FE versions, they don't have the lubrication system to handle high RPM work.

If you want to win races, build some other type engine for this car. If you want to make it fun to drive, stick with modificying for low and mid range torque. This is the forte of these engines.

The long tube header issue..... Long tube headers provide significant torque gains throughout the entire rev range. Shorty headers provide SOME gains at high RPM. Long tubes are the way to go with these engines for the reasons I've already stated.

Forget the term HORSEPOWER when building one of these engines. Horsepower can not be directly measured. It is simply a mathematical calculation. Lots of horsepower will win races. To produce lots of horsepower in the calculation, you must move the torque peak to a higher RPM. It will not FEEL any faster, but it will be faster.

Building MORE torque, but keeping it at a lower RPM will make the car a kick in the seat of the pants to drive and it will stay together forever.

Lip Ripper · 07-14-2010, 07:14 AM

Thanks for the input Doc. Those effin FPA's cost an arm, a leg along and half my backside.

Canuck623 · 07-14-2010, 09:43 AM

Good advice Doc. I have a 390 that will see close to 400/450 HP/torque at the flywheel but it's the T word I want. My cam makes it's power below 5500 RPM. Max HP is 5200. With a 3:50 ratio my little pickup should scoot pretty good and still be very nice on the freeway too. Not planning on racing it but for sure will see what she will do.

galaxieracer27 · 07-14-2010, 03:58 PM

i checked in a magizine today that had a spaecial article about galaxies n it said it was rated at 220 horse

Canuck623 · 07-14-2010, 06:19 PM

Originally Posted by galaxieracer27

i checked in a magizine today that had a spaecial article about galaxies n it said it was rated at 220 horse

Those ratings are at the crankshaft. 170 to the rear wheels would be pretty good in a Galaxie.

6Dsick · 07-15-2010, 06:33 AM

170HP at the wheels will put you in the high 10's in the 1/8th. That is, if you have the redonkulous 3.00 rear end like me. 1st gear 3/4 of the way down the damn track!

YouTube - 6Dsick Running at Holt

Lip Ripper · 07-15-2010, 09:20 AM

6Dsick have you looked at your timing advance? If so,what is your full advance?

Also, I thought ford rated engines @ bhp. then again, I've been absent from this sorta thing for a long time. If anyone has an old Motors manual from the 60's I think it gives hp ratings on the specific models and I was thinkin it was bhp.

LR

Canuck623 · 07-15-2010, 09:42 AM

BHP or brake horsepower is the measurement that it takes the braking system of the dyno to stop the rear wheels, or max it out at least. HP is measured at the crankshaft. Because BHP will differ from vehicle to vehicle I think most manufactures used actual engine HP instead. Not 100% sure on that. But a 428 in a Mustang had the same rating as a 428 in a Galaxie but on a dyno that would have been different if BHP was used. Different gear ratios will also affect BHP.

lincolndriver · 07-15-2010, 10:41 AM

i dont have onfo on the power differences between long and short headers cause frankly speaking on a personal level, no one can say that this one is better than that one unless they have tried them on their personal application. Therefore i try not to say this one is better cause... So in saying that , the headers i have are much better than the stock manifolds and are just as easy to install. these are Sanderson headers
with a custom exhaust

Lip Ripper · 07-15-2010, 12:03 PM

From Wiki,

In general:
Nominal is derived from the size of the engine and the piston speed and is only accurate at a pressure of 48 kPa (7 psi).[11] Indicated or gross horsepower (theoretical capability of the engine) minus frictional losses within the engine (bearing drag, rod and crankshaft windage losses, oil film drag, etc.), equals Brake / net / crankshaft horsepower (power delivered directly to and measured at the engine's crankshaft) minus frictional losses in the transmission (bearings, gears, oil drag, windage, etc.), equals Shaft horsepower (power delivered to and measured at the output shaft of the transmission, when present in the system) minus frictional losses in the universal joint/s, differential, wheel bearings, tire and chain, (if present), equals Effective, True (thp) or commonly referred to as wheel horsepower (whp)

galaxieracer27 · 07-15-2010, 02:21 PM

i have a few of the books from the 60's for the fords ill check them tonight when i have a chance