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02 Escape XLT 3.0L Crankshaft position sensor pulse wheel

Discussion in 'Ford Escape' started by mwoh, Feb 20, 2017.

  1. mwoh

    mwoh New Member

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    Hello, newbie and in need of help. Fixing the leaking valve cover gaskets and timing cover. What a job, got is all apart but while lifting the cover out of the engine bay, my son was in the wheel well thought is would be a good idea to remove the crankshaft position sensor pulse(trigger) wheel. So we all know what my question is. He didn't know it makes a difference as to the which crankshaft key is used and didn't pay attention to the orientation. I did some searching and found some data, but I don't want t do it twice. On the wheel there are two two keys one at the top and the other at the bottom, not a perfect 180 degrees apart. With the key at noon it has the number 25-34y-30m located to the right of the key. About one inch above the key are two holes, one directly above the key and the other hole to the left of the first hole. The hole to the left has a yellow dab of paint below it. Now rotate the wheel so the other key is at noon. Again to the right of the key is a stamped number 20-25-30 DAMB. Under the 20-25-30 DAMB is 30 RFF.

    What I have been able to determine from an online shop manual snapshot is ford uses the 25-34y-30m and I believe Mazda uses the other number. However the online data I found and a manual I have for the escape says the following " Install the crankshaft position sensor pulse (trigger) wheel on the crank shaft.
    CAUTION: Make sure the pulse wheel is installed with the crankshaft key in the slot marked "20-25-34y-30m"".

    I am not sure why the manual and online data has the "20" in the number and the actual part doesn't. I want to be sure that if I reinstall the wheel using the key with the number to the right "25-34y-30m" is the correct position to ensure the timing is correct the first time. For the record, the time has not been altered. The timing chains are in tack and the crank has not been turned since the crank pulley was removed. Any help to confirm that I am using the correct key slot would be greatly appreciated. Don;t want to think of starting is and yes they say it will run, but not very good.

    thank you all for any help.

    Attached Files:

  2. Action

    Action Moderator Staff Member Respected Member

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    I do not have an exact answer as I have never worked on that engine.

    With that said, numbers on Ford/Lincoln parts are NOT the part number. They are close to being the actual part number. This is different than most other manufacturers. The number stamped into the part or on a sticker attached th part is an engineering number and relates to who built the part, when it was built and any revisions.

    Also paint daubs are used in assembly and almost have no meaning for us or a repair tech. The paint means different things at different times at different assy plants. Replacement parts will not have the paint daub.

    Not sure that will help you. Welcome to the FFO!

    >>>>>>>>>>Action
  3. mwoh

    mwoh New Member

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    Thanks for the reply. Looking at the wheel and the key slot picked with the two holes above it, the 25-34y-30m is to the right of the key. Adjacent from that number on the other side of the middle hole is he number 20-25-30 damb with 30 rff below it. Below and down to the left of the two small holes is stamped"front" ha, easy enough. Too the right of the stamped 25-34y-30m number is 1s7e-12a227-ab which appears to be the Ford part number. I found here:
    http://contour.org/ceg-vb/forum/eng...arification?t=15718&highlight=Pulse+Wheel

    another thread that did shed the light as to the positioning of the wheel. The main point is where the location of the wider gap and it appears to me for the Escape the missing key spot on the wheel is positioned opposite of the key.
    Action likes this.
  4. Action

    Action Moderator Staff Member Respected Member

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    Looking at your first pic I wondered if the gap in the teeth was significant.

    Good luck and do report back as to the result.
    >>>>>>>>>>>Action
  5. 91xltlariat

    91xltlariat Active Member

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  6. mwoh

    mwoh New Member

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    Thanks for the reply and pdf. I think at this point I am confident that the slot to use is what your pdf depicted, with the reference gap opposite of the key way. In that position it has the 25-34y-30m to the right and the two holes directly above the key way. I have a call into a friend who should know this and to confirm all the good information every has contributed.

    Will give an update later this week.
  7. mwoh

    mwoh New Member

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    The crankshaft reluctor wheel is part of the crankshaft. The reluctor wheel consists of 35 teeth and a reference gap. Each tooth on the reluctor wheel is spaced 10 degrees apart with a 20-degree space for the reference gap. The pulse from the reference gap is known as the sync pulse. The sync pulse is used to synchronize the coil firing sequence with the crankshaft position, while the other teeth provide cylinder location during a revolution. My pain point isn't theory of operations, but putting positioning the wheel in the correct position. Guessing yields only 50% chance of correctness, so thus all the inquiry. One respondent has provided data that is inline with what I have ascertained thus raising the outcome to a successful outcome with the escape running as designed.
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  8. ford4v429

    ford4v429 Member

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    silly question, but just looking at the keyways, isnt one of them clean/stained at end of key, the other shaded all the way thru?

    another tidbit, first coast down from >65 to <45, the ECM reads/stores the tooth timing to map out any production variation tooth to tooth due to gaps/burrs, etc...found this on my mustang, a couple weeks after a battery swap, first offramp i coasted down was really bumpy, the thing stalled, wouldnt run... found out crankshaft walk in thrust bearing clearance on a bumpy road can read a bad map, enough the thing wont run due to misfire detection false triggers... after it happened, did some digging to find out why, found the ford documents explaining...

    anyways, good luck
  9. mwoh

    mwoh New Member

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    did you read my post? LOL, don't have a timing issue and nice story no relevance to my situation, thanks for sharing though. ;)
  10. mwoh

    mwoh New Member

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    UPDATE:

    Up and running like a champ, well these vehicles will never be champs, but all is good. Hats off to 91XLTLariat for the PDF. the timing wheel was installed correctly for the escape. bottom line the wide gap on the wheel is below the key way. Ran ruff and was puffing finally smoothed out, PCM had to relearn just took a little time. Only issue now is have a small high idle. Not high idle start up which is normal, but whether on cold start/closed loop, starts high falls to around 1100rpm while in park. Put in gear drops to 85oish. Driving when stopping feels like the engine is pulling while coasting, does drop rpm. If I stop and say 10 secs or so rpm drops to just under 1k rpm. this is to high, should be around 700 or so. Manual says 1 of three things: bad speedo cable, incorrectly installed speedo cable or electrical/mechanical/vacuum. I have traced all the vac hoses and really there are just not that many and have different sizes, so not sure whats going on. If anyone has had this issue and help is appreciated.



    thanks again to all who helped.
  11. 2006FordEscapeXLT3.0L

    2006FordEscapeXLT3.0L New Member

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    Hello, I have been reading this thread (along with many on the internet and shop manual) and still unclear on this pulse wheel location?
    When you say the wide gap is below the key, the question comes up in what position is the key to make that statement? 11 o'clock or 5 o'clock? Because, Wide gap below the keyway could mean you have it at 5 o'clock and its below.. correct?

    I have a 2006 Ford Escape 3.0L. Put it all back together and does not start.. Got spark, got fuel, got compression.. So, whats left.. TIMING.. Before I go ripping the timing cover off along with that f***ing alternator, I want to make sure I am doing this correctly for this type of vehicle or I am back to square 1 when I put it back and I second guessed myself and it still does not run.. All work and no play!!

    If I recall, I put it on with the key in the 11 o'clock position but the gap was on the "opposite" side towards the "bottom".. Not on the top? So, when the key is in the 3 o'clock position, the GAP in the pulse wheel lines up with the crank position sensor located around the 9 o'clock position (crank position sensor is to the left of the crank on my car looking at it from the passenger side wheel off towards engine)..
    I read another post that said this:
    Keyway facing the gap = no start
    Keyway facing away from gap = good
    and
    The pulse wheel needs to be set to the timing cover you are using

    So.. What does everyone conclude for my scenario above? Do I have it wrong for this Ford vehicle? I wish they just made it NON interchangeable so there would only be 1 key instead of all the guessing for types of vehicles, location of the crank position sensor, etc.

    Wondering when the gap hits the sensor, what does this do? Indicate the reference point for the computer/coil packs? Its not TDC though I think?

    Any help is greatly appreciated, I hope I explained my Ford Escape in detail?
  12. Dominick 1

    Dominick 1 Well-Known Member Respected Member

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    This is based on an Autozone test on a Mopar read it and see if it helps
    The following test can be considered a general test for most systems. Refer to the service manual for specific procedures for you automobile.

    No-Start Diagnosis

    The diagnostic procedure for EI (electronic ignition) systems varies depending on the vehicle make and model year. Always follow the procedure recommended in the vehicle manufacturer's service manual.

    The following procedure is based on Chrysler EI systems. The crankshaft timing sensor and camshaft reference sensor in these systems are modified Hall-effect switches.

    If a crank or cam sensor fails, the engine will not start. both of these sensor circuits can be checked with a voltmeter or lab scope.

    If the sensors are receiving the correct amount of voltage and have good low-resistance ground circuits, their output should be a pulsing digital signal or voltmeter reading while the engine is cranking.

    If any of these conditions do not exist, the circuit needs to be repaired or the sensor needs to be replaced. When the engine fails to start, follow these steps:

    1. Check for fault codes 11 and 43.
      • Code 11, "Ignition Reference Signal," could be caused by a defective camshaft reference signal or crankshaft timing sensor signal.
      • Code 43 is caused by low primary current in coil number 1, 2 or 3.
    2. With the engine cranking, check the voltage from the orange wire to ground on the crankshaft timing sensor and the camshaft reference sensor.
      acontentinfo.autozone.com_znetcs_content_how_to_en_US_0996b43f_80_a0_14_7d_fr_24.13.gif

      Crankshaft timing and camshaft reference sensor terminals.
      • Over 7V is satisfactory.
      • If the voltage is less than specified, repeat the test with the voltmeter connected from PCM (powertrain control module) terminal 7 to ground.
      • If the voltage is satisfactory at terminal 7 but low at the sensor orange wire, repair the open circuit or high resistance in the orange wire.
      • If the voltage is low at terminal 7, the PCM may need replacement.
        • Be sure 12V are supplied to the PCM terminal 3 with the ignition switch off or on, and 12 V must be supplied to PCM terminal 9 with the ignition switch on.
        • Check PCM ground connections on terminals 11 and 12 before PCM replacement.
    3. With the ignition switch on, check the voltage drop across the ground circuit (black/light blue wire) on the crankshaft timing sensor and the camshaft reference sensor.
      • A reading below 0.2V is satisfactory.
    NOTE
    When using a digital voltmeter to check a crankshaft or camshaft sensor signal, crank the engine a very small amount at a time and observe the voltmeter. The voltmeter reading should cycle from almost 0 volts to a highter voltage of about 5 volts. Since digital voltmeters do not react instantly, it is difficult to see the change in voltmeter reading if the engine is cranked continually.
    1. If the readings in the previous two steps are satisfactory, connect a lab scope or digital voltmeter from the gray/black wire on the crankshaft timing sensor and the tan/yellow wire on the camshaft reference sensor to ground.
      acontentinfo.autozone.com_znetcs_content_how_to_en_US_0996b43f_80_a0_14_7d_fr_24.14.gif

      Lab scope patterns from the camshaft and crankshaft position sensors.
      • When the engine is cranking, a digital pattern should be displayed or the voltmeter should cycle between 0 and 5 volts.
      • If the voltage does not cycle, sensor replacement is required.
      • Each sensor voltage signal should cycle from low voltage to high voltage as the engine is cranked.
    A no-start condition can occur if the PCM "locks up."

    • In step 2 above, if 0 volts is indicated the PCM may be faulty or it may be locked up.
    • If the PCM is locked up it will not store a fault code for the reason.
    • Basically, the PCM will lock up when it goes into a safeguard routine if the 9-volt or 5-volt reference voltage shorts to ground. This shuts down the PCM to protect it. Since it shuts down, no DTCs (Diagnostic trouble code) are stored.
    • The engine will not start as long as the ground is present. An intermittent ground will cause the engine to stop running.
    • Attempting to restart the engine without cycling the ignition switch to the full LOCK position will not start the engine, even if the ground is lifted.
      • Cycle the ignition switch to the LOCK position and wait about 5 to 10 seconds.
      • If the ground is lifted, the PCM will reset and the engine will start and run until the ground occurs again.
    • On 1996 and new SBEC III and JTEC engine controllers, there are two 5-volt reference signals. The sensors that require 5 volts are separated, thus If this signal shorts to ground the engine will still stop running, but for the first time a DTC can be set.
    • Also note, if the 9-volt reference voltage is opened, there will be no DTC stored for the crankshaft or camshaft positions sensors. With an open circuit the PCM cannot tell if the engine is cranking or not. The diagnostic routing does not begin until the PCM senses engine cranking.
    awww.autozone.com_images_common_btn_back_to_top.gif
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  13. 2006FordEscapeXLT3.0L

    2006FordEscapeXLT3.0L New Member

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    thanks for the detailed diagnosis, but way over my head as a DIYer.. I do appreciate the time you took to copy/paste all that information :)

    The sensors were fine when I had it running before I ripped it apart down to the short block to repair the connecting rod bearings. I did not take a pic of what the wheel looked like before I took it off :(

    Bottom line I am seeking for a 2006 FORD Escape with a Duratec 3.L liter that has the Crank Position Sensor to the left of the crank is WHERE should the notch be located when the Key is at 11 o'clock? I am thinking I have it on wrong described above?
  14. Dominick 1

    Dominick 1 Well-Known Member Respected Member

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    Suggest you buy a shop manual
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  15. Action

    Action Moderator Staff Member Respected Member

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    As a suggestion, I would recommend spending $60 for the shop manual set.
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/2006-Ford-E...ash=item3f806ce20b:g:2-wAAOSwq1JZI0x~&vxp=mtr

    You are assuming the pulse wheel is incorrectly installed. And may be it is. Other issues can be a bad sensor or may be you stretched a wire to the sensor or in some other part of the harness. Or maybe something no one has listed. The shop manual will give you details for installation of the wheel and chain set up in addition to diagnostic routines for no start. An example of that can be seen in the link of post #5.

    >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>Action
    Dominick 1 likes this.
  16. 2006FordEscapeXLT3.0L

    2006FordEscapeXLT3.0L New Member

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    Hello and thank you.. I purchased a shop manual, the directions say Make sure the pulse wheel is installed with the crankshaft key in the slot marked "20-25-34Y-30M" which I do believe I did but there are a lot of discrepancies on the naming as there are a few stamped on the damn wheel.

    Attached Files:

  17. Dominick 1

    Dominick 1 Well-Known Member Respected Member

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    atse1_mm_bing_net_th_810f4471bf4eb8739a4720011dc5fa2f._.jpg
    this may be your setup
    not sure
  18. 2006FordEscapeXLT3.0L

    2006FordEscapeXLT3.0L New Member

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    Pulse Wheel Pic.jpg This is exactly what I got and the placement of the wheel. You can see the key notch and location of the spaced wheel at the bottom. This is how I installed it with the key at TDC 11 o'clock when I installed the timing chains to start.
    Note: Stamped numbers are different at both sides. some say that 25 and 30 represent either 2.5L or 3.0L. An interchangeable wheel.. Fun Stuff!!
    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 9, 2017

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