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1990 inline 6 cylinder.4.9L How do I find out if it has jumped time??

Discussion in 'Engine & Drivetrain' started by sonny32, Feb 25, 2012.

  1. sonny32

    sonny32 New Member

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    Right now I am confused, I have had problems with this engine for a while now.Yes I have had the distributor out, and yes I have moved it a couple of teeth , but it is still showing it is timed on #3 cylinder.Or at least that is when I can find the timing notch.. I want to get it back to #1 cylinder... Can someone tell me if there is an easy way:mad2:
    Thanks
    Sonny 32
  2. Poppy

    Poppy Well-Known Member Respected Member

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    You must know that you want the engine on the compression stroke at TDC and the rotor pointing to wire #1.
    When you try to set the timing with a light, you have to pull the SPOUT connector first.
  3. Dominick

    Dominick Well-Known Member Respected Member

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    ainfo_rockauto_com_getimage_getimage_php_7a3f84fbac2a504aee8d16f73fe1a853._.jpg If moving the dist dosen't do it you have most likely stripped a cam gear there is no chain
  4. sonny32

    sonny32 New Member

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    Yes POPPY I know about the SPOUT Connector, That make no difference, connected or diconnected it is still at #3 cylinder..
    Still thinking!!!!!
  5. Poppy

    Poppy Well-Known Member Respected Member

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    Your fireing order is 1-5-3-6-2-4

    Does your engine run?
  6. sonny32

    sonny32 New Member

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    Yes POPPY, I moved the plug wire around the distrutor,I think it was jumped one space then another and it runs fair. but again when I put the timing light on it I can not see the timing notch until I put the Pickup from the light on the #3 wire...
    Next week end I think I will start off from the beginning and put a compression tester on it run up the #1 cylinder and just see where everything else IS.. AND go from there...
    Thanks POPPY, I find it hard to believe that it jumped time cause it being steel gear on steel gear,,, I just dont know what else to think..
    Thanks again, I let u know what happens be looking for a post next saturday night about this time 7 pm eastern...
  7. Skyhawk

    Skyhawk Active Member

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    Put the #1 piston on TDC on the compression stroke. Pull the #1 spark plug and put a compression tester or your thumb over the #1 spark plug hole and feel the compressed air pushing while turning the engine over by hand until the piston is at TDC. Then check the timing gears for the timing marks. If this is OK go to the distributor and have the rotor point at the #1 spark plug wire. The distributor is *(should be) marked for the #1 spark plug location. Make sure the spark plug wires are in the proper firing order on the distributor and on the plugs. Make sure you did not put the distributor in at 180 degrees from #1.
    Poppy likes this.
  8. oldtimer35

    oldtimer35 New Member

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    I would check to see if the roll pin on the distributor gear has sheared. The only way to see if that is the problem is to try to drive the roll pin out. The gear is a press fit on the distributor shaft and if it is sheared, then you cannot drive it out. You would have to press the gear off the shaft, and back on again with a new roll pin. While you have the pin out, clean the shaft, as something has caused it to shear. I have seen more of this kind of problem the the 4.9 than a stripped cam gear.
    Poppy likes this.
  9. oldtimer35

    oldtimer35 New Member

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    Wonder if it ever got fixed and what it was?
  10. phantom

    phantom Moderator Staff Member

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    I was wondering if the harmonic balancer slipped or spun abit . . .(rubber seperated)
  11. sonny32

    sonny32 New Member

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    I'm still working on this truck but I got pulled away by my son's Dodge Dakota '87 p.o.s... I guess I should not say anything bad about it, he has put allot of miles on it but it just started running poor and needs it for work.. so right now that is first on the list... Plus I had to work all day saturday so that leaves little time to work on the important things ,, Mine..
  12. dyngrngalaxie

    dyngrngalaxie Active Member Respected Member

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    first, it helps if you have an idea which way the vacuum canister should point because you need to find the firing position for #1 cylinder (rotor vs cap). Take the plug out of #1 cylinder. The v8's turn clockwise, Not sure about 6's. You may have to take drive belts off of pulleys and definitely disconnect battery. Take a long socket & ratchet or breaker bar. Put socket on bolt in centre of crankshaft. Remove plug and put your finger in #1 spark plug hole. Turn crank in proper firing direction of engine. When you feel compression pressure pushing your finger out, bring timing pointer to 0deg on scale. that puts#1 cyl on tdc of compression stroke. Set cap on dist, find #1 terminal on cap & mark position on housing. Set cap aside. Look at vacuum advance. Line your forefinger up with arm . If arm is on right side of distributor, counterclockwise is retard and clockwise is advance. Visa versa if arm is on left side. Use mark on housing to orient rotor firing position approx 1/8 turn retarded because engagement of gear will cause shaft to turn about that far as it engages. When distributor seats in engine, rotor should point at the mark you made on housing to mark #1 firing position. If it's like V-8, hold down flange of dist housing may stop about 1/8" from seating. Put hand on distributor cap, hold it still but lightly press down and further rotate crankshaft in firing direction, dist should fully seat. Never a bad idea to grease gear & oil pump drive when distributor's out. Install hold down and set timing.

    Hope this helps.
  13. MichaelJennnings

    MichaelJennnings New Member

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    To start with, a 1990 4.9L I-6 engine does NOT have a vacuum advance on the distributor. I has a TFI Module attached to the side of the distributor housing. You will need to crank the engine and see which direction the rotor turns.

    The remarks about a sheared roll pin is very accurate. I have seen numerous sheared. Even if the pin isn't sheared off, the gear is still an interference fit and must be pressed off and on. You should be able to tell by looking at the pin if it has sheared.

    Bring the engine up to #1TDC with the pre-described methods, pull the distributor and reclock it to where the rotor is pointing to #1 plug wire location on the cap. Double check firing order.

    This should retime the engine and it should start even though it may run sluggish. Pull the SPOUT connector and set the timing to 10 degrees BTDC. This was the normal timing for a Ford of this vintage with TFI-4 system.

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