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2016 Zephyr Projects!

Discussion in 'Ford Fairmont' started by ZephyrEFI, Apr 23, 2016.

  1. Action

    Action Moderator Staff Member Respected Member

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    I think it adds a bit of understated class. It was a good choice.

    >>>>>>>>>>>>Action
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  2. Dominick 1

    Dominick 1 Well-Known Member Respected Member

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    I echo Action
    Nice and clean
  3. ZephyrEFI

    ZephyrEFI Well-Known Member Respected Member

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    Thanks!

    So, I spent some time yesterday finishing up cleaning my '06 Lincoln Zephyr floormats. They're finally worthy to lay on top of my new carpet.

    Then I solved another old mystery on the car that I'd notice every once in a while and then forget to address. My "BRAKE" light in the dash would not come on when I would engage the parking brake. It's not easy to get your hand way up there where the switch on the pedal assembly is, but I finally did that yesterday to see of the connector was installed. Turns out it was, to my surprise. So now what? I took a look at my '88 EVTM. It told me the circuit passes through something called a "dual brake switch" or something. I googled what that is, just to see what I was looking for. The only pics I could find were of that two-pin switch you see on the proportioning valve on '80s and older Fords. I still have the original '79 proportioning valve installed on the car, so I do have one, but I never remember having that connected since swapping in the '90 harness. And at one point, the "BRAKE" light DID work. So, that's weird. At that point, I decided to dig around in the wiring in that corner of the engine bay to see if i could find an appropriate connector. Pretty quickly, I found the 3-pin connector for the thingy on the bottom of the master cylinder reservoir. I thought I remembered that being gone since one of the several times I pulled the dash, shifted the harness around, etc. But, there it was, so I plugged it in.
    ai.imgur.com_aO5z9uh.jpg
    After doing that, the "BRAKE" light works now! I couldn't find a '90 wiring diagram to verify this, but my assumption is that, that's a newer style "dual brake switch" or something that serves the same function. The wire colors weren't even the same, so I can't say for sure. Stupid year to year changes. Oh, and one more thing. My master cylinder is MY1994, and it's the same connector as my MY1990 harness. So, there you go... sometimes you can fix things with dumb luck. haha

    And then I spent some time planning placement for my other emblems, but then I ran out of daylight.
  4. Dominick 1

    Dominick 1 Well-Known Member Respected Member

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    Glad you found it
    Those plastic switches wore out over the years and leak
    I used to stock them back in the day.
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  5. ZephyrEFI

    ZephyrEFI Well-Known Member Respected Member

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    I'll have to keep on eye on my prop valve then. Thanks for the tip!

    Welllllllll I had a challenging day yesterday. I went to put some of my vintage emblems on. Those barrel clips and studs just fought me every inch of the way. First I couldn't get the clips themselves to go into their holes. I looked up what the hole size was supposed to be and everything. And I didn't want to make the holes TOO big and make it so they wouldn't hold on to the studs and i'd lose my expensive emblems. And then the f#$%ing studs didn't want to go into the clips! I don't know if it was because the emblems are repros or the clips weren't OEM quality or what. That whole deal just is not worth the trouble. I think on the other side I'm going to just fill in the hollow parts of the emblems with some JB Weld and then just use double sided tape.

    Anyway, here's what we've got. I'm pretty happy with my placement and everything in the end though.

    ai.imgur.com_WBalRRj.jpg
  6. Dominick 1

    Dominick 1 Well-Known Member Respected Member

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    Looks nice
  7. ZephyrEFI

    ZephyrEFI Well-Known Member Respected Member

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    Still fiddling with emblems. Cut the studs off all but the flag on the passenger door. It seems happy where it is, so I'm going to leave it alone. Below, the left emblem has the hollow part filled in, and the one on the right is one step further along with double sided tape put on. It's ready to install.

    ai.imgur.com_00MaTim.jpg

    Other than that, I found out I have a fuel leak at the passenger side fuel rail. Yes, AGAIN.
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  8. Dominick 1

    Dominick 1 Well-Known Member Respected Member

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    Looks ready
    I wonder what the deal is with the fuel rails?
  9. ZephyrEFI

    ZephyrEFI Well-Known Member Respected Member

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    I can't imagine. The injector o-rings on that side are all new this year.
  10. Dominick 1

    Dominick 1 Well-Known Member Respected Member

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    Are they tighten down too much?
  11. Stymees'mont

    Stymees'mont Moderator Staff Member

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    Brad,
    Did you use a light film of grease on the "O" rings when putting back together?
  12. ZephyrEFI

    ZephyrEFI Well-Known Member Respected Member

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    I don't think so, though when i was tightening down the fuel rail bolts on that side, it seemed at first, it wouldn't be able to go down far enough. I considered slotting the hole on the front, but can't remember if I did.

    The injectors are 24 lb (blue top), so they are not stock, BUT, they are the ones that are the same shape and size as the originals (orange top), as opposed to the weird ones that require plug adapters that Ford Racing offers now.

    Eric, yes, i put oil on the O-rings.
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  13. Dominick 1

    Dominick 1 Well-Known Member Respected Member

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    I was thing along the lines of vibration causing the rail to split
  14. ZephyrEFI

    ZephyrEFI Well-Known Member Respected Member

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    Okay, that's interesting. I wouldn't have though of that. I'll check it out.
  15. ZephyrEFI

    ZephyrEFI Well-Known Member Respected Member

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    Okay, so here's what I've been up to (along with avoiding dealing with the fuel leak). You may or may not know that if you replace your dimmer switch with the one from LMR, you will lose the ability to turn your dome light on with it. No idea why, but nevertheless, it's true. Well, I still want to be able to turn my domelight on if i want. So here's my solution.
    ai.imgur.com_GNABgyU.jpg
    I'm wiring in this switch that I chose based on its similarity to the other switches nearby. I didn't like that it lights up, but guess what? All you need to do is not ground it, and it doesn't light up. Anyway, once it's in the car, I'm expecting it to be effectively "hidden" since it's mounted to the underside like that.

    Moving on. On the other side of the instrument cluster bezel, we have this little "low fluid" display.
    ai.imgur.com_9QFpiBd.jpg
    Well, my wire harness is 1990 model year, so it doesn't have that function. I had been using a 90-93 bezel, just because it was "cleaner", but now I have a use for this space. Having newer cars for DDs, I've gotten used to having a handy clock up high on the dash. So, i decided my Zeph needs one too.
    You pop the "lens" off and there are 4 little windows for your warning lights. It makes a nice structure to attach the clock body to.
    ai.imgur.com_9GwkKaN.jpg
    I cut out a spot just big enough for the clock. By the way, the clock is from a '95 Mustang. Here's a look at the mock-up. When it's finished, I have a better "lens" for it.
    ai.imgur.com_iuNIpCb.jpg

    I also plan to put my fan controller warning light behind this lens.
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