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Discussion Starter #21
I will, ty! It would be nice if it was something small and AI could move on to all the other stuff!
 

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The Ford number is E0AZ 7F330 A
you may find it at your Ford Dealer or a place like Auto Zone
 

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Yes, it has overdrive and cruise control. It is the transmission you mentioned. The e4od.
Hello Marybeth,

The E4OD is electronically controlled. The intermittent harsh shifting and high idle may be related. An intermittent TPS could cause both problems. Usually default strategy on an ECU when the TPS signal disappears is to assume the worst case and idle up to keep engine from stalling say in a turn and it will also increase line pressure in a transmission to ensure it doesn't slip and burn the clutches. That increase in line pressure also makes the shifts hard.

I am not saying this is it, but it's a distinct possibility. When the mechanic checked the TPS, how did he check it? The best way is to sweep with an analog meter to catch glitches over its complete travel (digital meters typically update 1/2 -1 second and you can miss a dead spot) or it may have been working fine at that moment. It's hard to diagnose something that isn't broken at the time.

Good luck

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Both Amazon and eBay have the kit, under 10 bucks, ty!
Hello Marybeth,

The E4OD is electronically controlled. The intermittent harsh shifting and high idle may be related. An intermittent TPS could cause both problems. Usually default strategy on an ECU when the TPS signal disappears is to assume the worst case and idle up to keep engine from stalling say in a turn and it will also increase line pressure in a transmission to ensure it doesn't slip and burn the clutches. That increase in line pressure also makes the shifts hard.

I am not saying this is it, but it's a distinct possibility. When the mechanic checked the TPS, how did he check it? The best way is to sweep with an analog meter to catch glitches over its complete travel (digital meters typically update 1/2 -1 second and you can miss a dead spot) or it may have been working fine at that moment. It's hard to diagnose something that isn't broken at the time.

Good luck

Cheers
Hello Marybeth,

The E4OD is electronically controlled. The intermittent harsh shifting and high idle may be related. An intermittent TPS could cause both problems. Usually default strategy on an ECU when the TPS signal disappears is to assume the worst case and idle up to keep engine from stalling say in a turn and it will also increase line pressure in a transmission to ensure it doesn't slip and burn the clutches. That increase in line pressure also makes the shifts hard.

I am not saying this is it, but it's a distinct possibility. When the mechanic checked the TPS, how did he check it? The best way is to sweep with an analog meter to catch glitches over its complete travel (digital meters typically update 1/2 -1 second and you can miss a dead spot) or it may have been working fine at that moment. It's hard to diagnose something that isn't broken at the time.

Good luck

Cheers
I do not know how he tested it. But I was unable to recreate the issue at that time and he acted like possibly I was imagining the problem. I have read and read about all of these symptoms, I had requested that he check the TPS and I think he didn’t like me Making the suggestion as he gave me some guff about how it could not be that and I should leave it to him etc. so entirely possible he didn’t even check it. Given all you alls advice I think I will just replace the O2 sensors and the TPS and maybe the voltage regulator also. Those are all inexpensive and if It isn’t them now it more than likely will be soon. I am not fond of sensors, I miss my ‘63 Sprint very much right now! Ty for the advice!
 

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I would try disabling the cruise control. Depending on how it's set up on that vehicle, you may be able to do it electronically by pulling the appropriate fuse or mechanically disconnecting it from the throttle linkage if it's that type. That would take one more thing off the table off potential causes.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Did you check out that bushing?
I took it to a mechanic. I brought the tps and the bushing. Visit 1. They claim it is neither, that it is the accelerator return spring. They replace next day still surging. 2. I bring it back, I say please replace these parts. They say I need a serpentine belt, a new alternator also, so I say fine do it all. Pick it up and They did the serpentine, the alternator and the idle air control valve but not the tps or the bushing. Next day same issue plus awful screeching from belt. 3. Bring it back with same request. They keep it all day and say they couldn’t get the throttle body off the bolts are rusted on and the screeching is my AC unit, come back next week and we fix. 4. Next day,Sunday, I am stuck with the starter not disengaging. I call a friend and ask him to replace the solenoid. In the course of that we discover the serpentine is not the correct size, and the tensioner breaks. Replace the serpentine and tensioner and solenoid. So I am now back to square one with a rusted on throttle body, lol. All this has cost me about 550.00 and I still have the original problem!
 

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I'm not bashing the person that is working on it
But It seems to me that it looks like he is not doing what you ask for
Most fuel injected engines don't have a throttle return spring they a part of the cable
If you ever get the throttle body off tell him to look at the throttle body mounting gasket they tend to blow apart in the center
Tell him to look at that throttle kick down linkage again
I know they are a pain to get to but it still could be your problem
Good Luck
 

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Discussion Starter #33
I'm not bashing the person that is working on it
But It seems to me that it looks like he is not doing what you ask for
Most fuel injected engines don't have a throttle return spring they a part of the cable
If you ever get the throttle body off tell him to look at the throttle body mounting gasket they tend to blow apart in the center
Tell him to look at that throttle kick down linkage again
I know they are a pain to get to but it still could be your problem
Good Luck
My Saga continues, lol! The bolts broke. Mechanic kept it 4 days while I stayed in a hotel, which was a nice little vacation. He replaced the tps, didn’t charge me because it took him so long. I am not sure if that fixed it, it seems better but it always seems better then it just goes back to surging..fingers crossed this did it. I agree with you regarding the kick down linkage, that will be my next stop if it is not resolved.
 

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Surging is more of an engine running condition based on air fuel mixture or electronic engine controls
Sticking accelerator is a mechanical issue. Something mechanical between the accelerator pedal and the throttle plate in the throttle body is not aligned and hanging up.
See post #2

If you used one of those terms above and the tech or service writer did not test drive with you, they may be repairing something different that what your experience is on the road.
And yes you are correct many techs do not like customers telling them what to do. They then become parts replacers with no diagnosis. If the issue is diagnosed then repaired, then test driven to confirm the repair was the correct one a vehicle does get repaired

BTW which bolts broke? Holding the throttle body on?

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And you stated in post #4 about the condition and maintenance, "The vehicle was very poorly maintained. My guess is 160k very possibly 260k"

Have you replaced the oxygen sensors?
Have you replaced the crank case filter?
Have you serviced the automatic transmission?
Have you topped up the coolant level?

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