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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi everyone, first time posting. I have owned a lot of old cars but this one is newer to me. She has been a little fickle since buying her. In hopes of getting some insight I am going to briefly cover a few issues.

squeaking brakes, had them took apart, inspected and put back since he felt they were new. Got car back still squeaks!!!! Nothing worse than riding to a stop light and your brakes squeaking. Mechanic said I should update to modern brakes, he feels the original are unsafe.

Two days ago I was driving home from work, it was around 60 degrees, cooler out than it had been since I bought the car. I warmed it up, and as I tried to drive up the hill she struggled! I almost felt like I heard a clapping sound like something flapping shut. Closer I got to higher speeds worse it was and would not accelerate, luckily I only live a few blocks away so I limped home. Parked it, went back out in am when it was warmer hoping it was something to do with the weather and took it around the block same issue.

Gas is not old, but it has been more than a few days driving since getting it.

292 v8

mostly original
claims to have 43,000 miles but that is hard to authenticate.

Thank you to anyone who is willing to offer advice on where to start.

I also wanted to mention my gas indicator seems really off, like won’t go below 1/4 tank, won’t go above 3/4.
49543
 

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Welcome to the Forum
On your front brake issue
I would uses a quality riveted brake shoe
Make sure that the drums aren't grooved
If the are smooth sand them to break the glazed look on the drum
Your Fuel pump has a screw on metal bowl with a filter inside it
Check the metal cannister bowl for pin holes
Replace the filter inside of it
On your fuel gauge it could be a float with a pin hole in it
or a grounding issue at the sender in the tank
Also there should be a constant voltage regulator on he back of your dash unit that goes bad
 

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squeaking brakes, had them took apart, inspected and put back since he felt they were new. Got car back still squeaks!!!! Nothing worse than riding to a stop light and your brakes squeaking. Mechanic said I should update to modern brakes, he feels the original are unsafe.
Welcome to the FFO!

You might need to find a new mechanic
If the mechanic means to change the drum brakes to disc, then yes get a new mechanic. This one does not understand brakes or at least drum breaks. Because based on that logic the entire car is not safe. The car does not conform to safety standards of current automobile manufacturing.

So yes disc brakes are more efficient, easier to work on, have far less fading however to say they are not safe because they squeak is poor.

The reason they squeak can be from a variety of sources
Debris typically brake dust and can be IN the friction material or the metal as Dominick states above
Shoe alignment because of weak springs or worn backing plate rub surface
Shoes that are not uniform in arch and do not conform to the drum
Friction material - some material has less or more metal in it which can set up a condition where the material does not uniformly engage the drum
Shoes that do not have a beveled leading edge
Humidity or lack there of

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BTW very nice ride!!!!

1959 was not a good year for car sales and for Ford. There are not as many of these as there once was

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thank you, will update you after I get that checked out. She sat a lot although stored in a heated garage and previous owner barely drove 2000 miles in a few years.

just to clarify I think the mechanic just leans towards modernizing, not squeaky means unsafe. He has been a pretty stellar dude so far.
 

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That looks like an add on filter
There should be one in the fuel pump also
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Why would they add them? Previous owner told me he had work done on float in tank and the lines looked fairly new not cracked or worn, wonder what all they replaced. I am going to look through receipts he gave me.
 

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Pretty sure the original filter is in a canister attached to the bottom of the fuel pump.
If it is factory the ends of the metal line will be smooth. (not cut) The end will have a raised area about 1/4" from the end so the fuel hose clamps can grip tighter.

Why does someone add an aftermarket part?
They don't understand the original equipment
They think it is better, easier or cheaper (Most of the time it is none of those)

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the origional fuel pump had a filter in a can at the bottom. pump may have been replaced with a newer version without the filter. thus the added filter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I got underneath it was definitely replaced i can see where the metal line was cut and the hose tube was added in to connect it.

Swapped inline filter, definitely improved sourcing a pump before I take this one off but still hesitant under load but no where as bad. Going to take pump off this weekend inspect and possibly replace.
 

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BTW very nice ride!!!!

1959 was not a good year for car sales and for Ford. There are not as many of these as there once was

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Ford excelled in 1959!! The Fairlane & new, mid-year released Galaxie 500 did very well in 1959 in fact. 1958 was a recession year for the big 3. Only Ford's new 1958 Thunderbird did good that year.

Does the distributor vaccum advance work? How about the mechanical advance?? I would switch the old points & condenser set up, & add a few Petronix magnetic ignition module & Flamethrower coil myself.

Also, a 1959 fuel pump would have a lower glass fuel sediment bowl- not a screw on metal fuel filter. I would add a plastic in-line universal fuel filter to the rubber hose attached to metal fuel line from the gas tank. While you are under there add a separate ground wire from the gas tank to the frame. Rivet it in to an ear on a corner of the gas tank. Then clean a spot on the frame and screw it down. There still could be a float issue with your sender in the tank, but this is a good start. The inside trunk liner should lift up & there should be an access door in the floor board back there, somewhere in the center of the trunk. This would give you access to the sender & you can inspect the inside of the tank for debrie/trash. Also inspect the fuel line pick-up sock on the end of the line in there. Good luck.

Sounds like carbin build up to me, causing a clatter noise as you try to accelerate. Try adding a can Sea Foam engine treatment to your gas tank & also suck one in thru the intake manifold while running. Then go drive the heck out this V8 until the smoking subsides- that is carbon being blown out of the engine combustion area.

Only run non-ethanol gas too- trust me.

Drum brakes are fine on these old, heavy cars. They ran around for years without causing tons of accidents!! I would buy new quality shoes sets for both front/rear & new spring hardware kits. Get the all drums resurfaced & start over. Pay attention that the shows are installed correctly too. There a long shoe & a short shoe for each wheel.

Good luck. These Fairlane Galaxie 500s are great, solid cars. I have a black sedan myself, 352cid option though. It was bought new by uncle.

-Jon in TX.
 

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Yeah my grandfather had a 1959 sedan of some flavor; though all I remember was that it was blue, 3 on the tree and knowing my grandfather likely a 223 CID six, and he consistently skipped second gear.

I've installed Pertronix modules in 4 different 60s Ford V8s; all with single point distributors and work well. The only one that gave me a problem was because I was talked including the Flamethrower coil which needs a minimum of 8 run time volts from (per their online support documentation that I finally studied). All to say the combination worked consistently AFTER I bypassed the internet-notorious pink resistance wire. Otherwise, the "plain-jane" Pertronix 1281 (for single point distributors) without messing with Ford's good enough coil is plenty in my experience. Plenty of 427 equipped Fords kicked backsides with the traditional yellow top coil.

Ethanol-free gas ... What if the OP cannot get it? I agree mileage is better and have seen photos online where the rubber has deteriorated. But a few ounces of Stabil and Top Tier fuel has prevented problems in my rides throughout the 2000s.

Agree with about comment about the brakes. Unless someone is doing loads of down hill driving at high speeds in wet weather or perhaps running track days, well adjusted quality drum brakes work well.
IF the OP is talked into it, I hope they can research and obtain what fits with the least amount of other modifications; e.g., different spindles, tie rods, bumpsteer, alignment changes, ensuring good availability of new pads and rotors etc.
I did replace the single bowl master cylinder with a 1967 full-sized Ford dual bowl MC on the ride in my sig.

Kevin
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks, I will keep you all posted on my progress. Swapping the filter made such a difference atleast I feel I am going the right direction. Before changing it I could not get her above 25 ish mph now she hesitates but atleast pushes on. I don’t want to cause other issues so going to look into the tank, I had no idea there was an access panel!
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Ford excelled in 1959!! The Fairlane & new, mid-year released Galaxie 500 did very well in 1959 in fact. 1958 was a recession year for the big 3. Only Ford's new 1958 Thunderbird did good that year.

Does the distributor vaccum advance work? How about the mechanical advance?? I would switch the old points & condenser set up, & add a few Petronix magnetic ignition module & Flamethrower coil myself.

Also, a 1959 fuel pump would have a lower glass fuel sediment bowl- not a screw on metal fuel filter. I would add a plastic in-line universal fuel filter to the rubber hose attached to metal fuel line from the gas tank. While you are under there add a separate ground wire from the gas tank to the frame. Rivet it in to an ear on a corner of the gas tank. Then clean a spot on the frame and screw it down. There still could be a float issue with your sender in the tank, but this is a good start. The inside trunk liner should lift up & there should be an access door in the floor board back there, somewhere in the center of the trunk. This would give you access to the sender & you can inspect the inside of the tank for debrie/trash. Also inspect the fuel line pick-up sock on the end of the line in there. Good luck.

Sounds like carbin build up to me, causing a clatter noise as you try to accelerate. Try adding a can Sea Foam engine treatment to your gas tank & also suck one in thru the intake manifold while running. Then go drive the heck out this V8 until the smoking subsides- that is carbon being blown out of the engine combustion area.

Only run non-ethanol gas too- trust me.

Drum brakes are fine on these old, heavy cars. They ran around for years without causing tons of accidents!! I would buy new quality shoes sets for both front/rear & new spring hardware kits. Get the all drums resurfaced & start over. Pay attention that the shows are installed correctly too. There a long shoe & a short shoe for each wheel.

Good luck. These Fairlane Galaxie 500s are great, solid cars. I have a black sedan myself, 352cid option though. It was bought new by uncle.

-Jon in TX.
Is this it?
Vertebrate Wood Automotive tire Grey Tints and shades
 
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