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Discussion Starter #1
I remember back in 1965 I had a stock 1960 Falcon with the 144ci six and I would get 24 mpg most of the time. Is that what you guys are getting now? or with modern ignition etc. you might be getting a little better mpg.
Mine is getting somewhere around 2 mpg now, but not with the stock 144 ci six.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Are you using the Petronic ignition? Yes, stock size tires should help. Mine was manual also. Very nice.
 

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also would you have to change out the coil from stock to a high performance one? then would you have to upgrade the wires and plugs?
 

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does the Petronic ignition help with gas and hp?
The answer depends on how the vehicle is driven and maintained.
If driven as a hobby car and well maintained, may be little to no difference.

Electronic ignition takes the maintenance out of the ignition primary ignition system. (Points and condenser) In addition it will last far longer and deliver a very consistent timing of the signal to the coil over a very long time. The ignition maintenance is only for the secondary system. (Cap, rotor, plugs and cables)

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also would you have to change out the coil from stock to a high performance one? then would you have to upgrade the wires and plugs?
I think Pertronix recommends this. However it really depends on how you drive the vehicle. Most street legal driving the required spark needed to fire off the plugs is in the 7000 to 12000 volt range. Most coils, cables and spark plugs can handle that and a bit more.

If the engine is going to see consistent RPMs over 3000 with peaks in the 5000 to 6000 rpm range, 20,000 to 40,000 volts may be needed. Upgrading the secondary ignition system has to happen as stock coils can not handle that type of output.

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Discussion Starter #8
Normal points with time loose the proper gap. With an electronic ignition system like Petronics, that issue is solved. Timing effects efficiency so you will see a more consistent burn which equates to more consistent fuel economy and power over time.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
As Action states, as long as you are not using your vehicle for a racing application, and your coil, plugs, distributor, and wires are in good condition, there is no need to upgrade to a racing application. Farm equipment has been upgraded to electronic ignition and they very seldom see over 2,200 rpm. Less maintenance is their main goal.
 

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I have the ignitor 1 with 50k volts coil.
I currently run 175/80r13 and want to go to 185/80r13.
Maxxis has these with whitewall.
 

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the bigger plug gap causes the voltage at the coil to rise higher to ionize the big gap. this is where your old plug wires fail to contain it
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Increasing the spark plug gap beyond factory specifications will hurt not help. Gap your plugs as per recommended, not wider or narrower.
 

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What can be done is increase the plug gap to increase burn efficiency.
Buy an engine that is designed for wider fap spark plugs. Sending greater voltage to the spark plugs won't mean a better burn.

As stated above, the spark is seeking the easiest path to ground. That can be scatter spark inside the distributor cap, out the cable, out the boot.
The goal of the spark is to light off the air/fuel mixture. Higher voltage can help to a point. And that higher voltage may be 15,000 volts in a stock engine or even one that is slightly modified. Unless you are running very high compression at very high RPMs does anything close to 50,000 volts become necessary. But it is easy and cheap to manufacture, market and sell an ignition system that generates that kind of voltage. Meanwhile on a warmed up stock engine at RPMs in the 1500 range a 7000 volt spark is being sent to the plugs.

Just because the coil can generate more does not mean more will be produced. Only enough will be produced to get to a ground. Hopefully that is in the combustion chamber.

Increasing efficiency in a 60 year old six banger, bring it back to original stock condition. No leaks, good pumps (oil & water) and a distributor that has little wear in the shaft and bushings. Clean is the over all theme. Clean oil, clean coolant and the systems that contain those fluids. If you want to spend some bucks and the engine has greater than six figure mileage, tear it down! New bearings, rings & pistons. All balanced, straightened and trued. The factory tolerances are not that great for machining. Add a bunch of miles and wear well there isn't anything you do to the ignition or fuel system that over comes that kind of inefficiency.

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ok,

Well that was suggested at TFFN.

I've kept my plug spacing pretty stock, because I didn't want to mess with it too much.
The most MPG increase I've made was by resetting my timing with a vacuum gauge and a timing light (no my balancer is new and hasn't slipped. My old one did slip)...

I've never driven the car without the pertronix and the old musterd top wasat least 30+ years, so when I ordered the pertronix system a pertonix coil was an auto include for me, having to pay shipping to europe anyway, so that didn't matter.

Rinke
 

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I put a 200L6 from 1968 into my 1960 Ranchero. 9:1 compression, hi-lift cam, Weber 38/38, headers, Pertronix ignition, Tremec 5-speed. I get 16 mpg but have a great timedriving.
 

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My 1963 originally had a 144 but came with a 170 and a 3 on the tree when I purchased it in 1984. It still has the original points ignition system and I've gotten as high as 27mph on the highway. I haven't driven it much for many years now so not sure how it would do on the current stuff they call gasoline. It's one of those situations where I want to sell it but not badly enough to go through the trouble of doing it.
 
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