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$600 isn't bad for good for nice sheetmetal concittering how hard it is to find.
 

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Well here's hoping they aren't that expensive. But that doesn't surprise me either. Decent ones are few and far between.
Once I get the harder to find body parts located I think I want to do something with the front suspension. I seem to remember the 64 or 65 falcons had good suspensions that would bolt to the 60's and you could get them with PS.
Also a great catalogue to get is macs they are model specific and the website is excellent and at least you are getting new parts. I have used them a lot for my 62 falcon and the quality is always great. I will post some pics when I put the last rear window in.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
The Quaters were inspected and the guy said they were in pristine condition, the skins and the drop offs. He wants 550 a side plus shipping. Any thoughts if I should pull the trigger?
 

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The Quaters were inspected and the guy said they were in pristine condition, the skins and the drop offs. He wants 550 a side plus shipping. Any thoughts if I should pull the trigger?
Firstly i would want to see pictures, second its hard for anything that old to be pristine, third i would check out all the websites for ford panels and compare, remember they will be brand new. If you are replacing these rear quarter panels on your ranchero you might want to cut the old ones off first to see what is under neath that needs addressing. i can't speak for you but i personally think that is a chunk of change. Shipping might add an awful lot as well, have a look at the websites, macs , c2c fabrication, and others, don't worry i am sure those pieces aren't going away any time soon. just my opinion. hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Firstly i would want to see pictures, second its hard for anything that old to be pristine, third i would check out all the websites for ford panels and compare, remember they will be brand new. If you are replacing these rear quarter panels on your ranchero you might want to cut the old ones off first to see what is under neath that needs addressing. i can't speak for you but i personally think that is a chunk of change. Shipping might add an awful lot as well, have a look at the websites, macs , c2c fabrication, and others, don't worry i am sure those pieces aren't going away any time soon. just my opinion. hope this helps.
I'll see what I can find. I can get the full skins for 400 for both sides. Problem is my drop offs are hosed. the damage is relegated to the quarters and the drop in the bed (where the cover in the bed covers). The wheel wells look okay. I'll post some pics I took today. Go easy on her, she has seen the road once in 10 years when I moved, other than that she hasn't been on the road about 15 years.
 

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Always appreciate pictures!!!!
Especially real pictures of real cars!!!

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Discussion Starter #28
Always appreciate pictures!!!!
Especially real pictures of real cars!!!

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Thanks. I am going to get the garage cleaned out on the days the cold is held off here in Ohio. After that my goal is to get it running and driving. Shouldn't be too hard, she turns right over with ether.
I found quarter skins for 400 dollars but no drop offs anywhere. Not sure if it's easier to have the body shop to make them or get them off a donor car like I found.
 

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Go easy on it. It has been sitting 10 years before that about 5 years in a storage locker.

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Well that looks very familiar it’s amazing how similar models can rust the same way, I bought spare doors and cut out the body profile from the door and welded the pieces I bought from c2c fabrication with the door piece , basically a long strip , along the the side and fabricated the rest to create the contour. It’s the inside skin that will create the most work.o
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Discussion Starter #30
Well that looks very familiar it’s amazing how similar models can rust the same way, I bought spare doors and cut out the body profile from the door and welded the pieces I bought from c2c fabrication with the door piece , basically a long strip , along the the side and fabricated the rest to create the contour. It’s the inside skin that will create the most work.o
Problem for me is I'm not a body guy. Don't know the first thing about it. I can tack weld sheet metal a little bit. cutting and welding in new metal and fabrication? Not even on the same deck as the wheelhouse I stay in.
Drivetrains is where I'm at.
 

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Problem for me is I'm not a body guy. Don't know the first thing about it. I can tack weld sheet metal a little bit. cutting and welding in new metal and fabrication? Not even on the same deck as the wheelhouse I stay in.
Drivetrains is where I'm at.
Nor am i , i am a picture framer. just love trying to do stuff, i am trying to find you photos of the inner panels.
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Discussion Starter #32
Nor am i , i am a picture framer. just love trying to do stuff, i am trying to find you photos of the inner panels.
I'm an electrician. I do not posses the skill to put a bead of weld on sheet metal. That's for a career professional. I don't think I want to even attempt to start cutting on this car. once I get in their not knowing what I am doing would probably lead my car to becoming a parts car.
everything from right behind the door to tail light has to come out and the inner drop offs as well. The other side of the car is worse than the one I photoed.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
I talked to the yard that has the quarters. They are going to send me some picks of the car underneath and the drop offs. I also talked to a local rod shop and they told me that a lot of times re-pop skins need to be worked on a bit to get them to fit right and when they cut old quarters off there may be more bad news lurking. They seemed to indicate that quarters already installed on a car, in good shape mind you might be the way to go some times Vs. just new skins that may need work to fit.
 

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Discussion Starter #34 (Edited)
While their version of pristine and most everyone else is different, I would call them solid I guess. Still not sure 550.00 a side plus shipping though. I can find aftermarket skins but my drop offs are hosed as well and the skins could need work to fit the body right. Guess I'm not sure which way to go. I knew this was going to be expensive but this is my first restoration of this size. My mustang and maverick needed little to no body work. o_O

This is new territory for me. I am a drive train and mechanical guy. Body and sheet metal are foreign to me.
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By the pictures those do look ok but not pristine, , They do need slight repair but as your body shop guy said the original panels will fit 10 time's better than any after market panel! Ran into that alot on my projects over the years, if he would come down on the price about 100 bucks a side I my self would pull the trigger,an hour or so of light metal work would make those panels pristine, but I do all my own metal work,body and paint also, can't afford to pay to have it all done, I try to fix what I have , with original sheet metal if possible from a good donor, only use aftermarket sheet metal panels if that is my only option 👍
 

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Discussion Starter #36
By the pictures those do look ok but not pristine, , They do need slight repair but as your body shop guy said the original panels will fit 10 time's better than any after market panel! Ran into that alot on my projects over the years, if he would come down on the price about 100 bucks a side I my self would pull the trigger,an hour or so of light metal work would make those panels pristine, but I do all my own metal work,body and paint also, can't afford to pay to have it all done, I try to fix what I have , with original sheet metal if possible from a good donor, only use aftermarket sheet metal panels if that is my only option 👍
I'll give them a shout and see if they'll deal a bit. He seemed firm and that's why I was hesitant from the start to buy them, a little more so after the pics, but then again no one makes the drop off and under areas which you either find donors or fab them yourself, a quality I do not poses.
 

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those donor panels do look pretty good. for every hour you save a body man doing work for you you are saving . the undersides of these skins are covered in a thick coating of factory anti rust material, so don't be put off by there appearance. it is easy to grind and clean them up for the body shop. if you have a fabricator in your town rather than a rod shop you will probably find it cheaper. just think about the money you will save doing the trainee.
 
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