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Discussion Starter #1
Hello, I’m picking up this car this coming weekend.....

There are three things on it that are not stock. One is the transmission. The two speed was replaced with a period 3 speed. Not sure that I’m going to do anything about that. But it has a Hooker header the seller tells me. If so I definitely want to go back to a stock manifold. Can anyone tell me the best source for that?

And it has an after market steering wheel that I will want to replace with a stock steering wheel. Again, would anyone be able to direct me to the best source for that....

Thank you
 

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This thread while dated may help to finding parts.
Parts - sources | Ford Automobiles (fordforumsonline.com)
And Ebay may be your friend. And know that some sellers do not understand what they are selling. They may embellish the years or the models their part covers. Which means you need to know for sure what you are seeking. For that I rely on the Ford Master Parts Catalog. (MPC) For your year I believe the 1960 to 1964 version is what is needed.
1960 - 1964 FORD GALAXIE SUNLINER STARLINER 500 XL MASTER PARTS CATALOG CD-ROM | eBay
(However I am not a fan of Forel Publishing)

This thread may be of value as well.
Bringing a car back from the dead! | Ford Automobiles (fordforumsonline.com)

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Ebay has some steering wheels listed.
You will need the horn button or ring. (One may be standard and the other deluxe)
Then there are horn button attaching parts.
Know what you need before you buy.

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Discussion Starter #4
Ebay has some steering wheels listed.
You will need the horn button or ring. (One may be standard and the other deluxe)
Then there are horn button attaching parts.
Know what you need before you buy.

Action
Thank you. I’m no mechanic but have a friend that is that will be involved in any purchases I make....👍
 

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I am not sure of the actual definition of a mechanic. Other than some one you pay to do work on your car.

For vehicles that are older, you should be involved in repairs and upkeep of your ride. EVEN if you do not do the actual work. (The exception might be if you have piles of cash and are OK with someone else's decision on the process) Knowing what is involved and having tools (manuals, diagrams and other pieces) available for the person doing the work on your ride just makes the process go smoother.

Being involved here helps and being involved in a local club would be two other arenas to explore. And know everyone has an opinion. Just not every opinion will work for you.

The only request I would have is pictures. Call it a cost to play here. Almost no one here will ever see your ride. Other than what you share. We appreciate any pictures you may post. And some of that can be for your benefit years or some time later. You can come back and see what you did.

Good luck on your new to you adventure. At times it may become frustrating, overwhelming or disappointing, just hang in there. Even if you take 3 steps forward and one back.

And definitely ask questions!!!!!

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Discussion Starter #6
I am not sure of the actual definition of a mechanic. Other than some one you pay to do work on your car.

For vehicles that are older, you should be involved in repairs and upkeep of your ride. EVEN if you do not do the actual work. (The exception might be if you have piles of cash and are OK with someone else's decision on the process) Knowing what is involved and having tools (manuals, diagrams and other pieces) available for the person doing the work on your ride just makes the process go smoother.

Being involved here helps and being involved in a local club would be two other arenas to explore. And know everyone has an opinion. Just not every opinion will work for you.

The only request I would have is pictures. Call it a cost to play here. Almost no one here will ever see your ride. Other than what you share. We appreciate any pictures you may post. And some of that can be for your benefit years or some time later. You can come back and see what you did.

Good luck on your new to you adventure. At times it may become frustrating, overwhelming or disappointing, just hang in there. Even if you take 3 steps forward and one back.

And definitely ask questions!!!!!

Action
Thank you Action. I’m absolutely going to be the helper working on the car. My mechanic has restored a lot of classics, has 5-6 going at any given time. No worries on that end....

And I’ll post pictures. The nearest club appears to be in Denver about 5 hours away. Not sure if I’ll join that or not...

Thanks again for your help....
 

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And another thing that may help you. Update your profile with city/state.

Sometimes weather plays into a diagnosis
Sometimes location is a factor for buying/selling parts

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Discussion Starter #8
And another thing that may help you. Update your profile with city/state.

Sometimes weather plays into a diagnosis
Sometimes location is a factor for buying/selling parts

Action
Got her done...😊
 

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Got her done...😊
Original steering wheel would have been a three spoke wheel with either a horn button in the center or a chrome ring ( delux). The piece that always gets broken is the plastic disc that has 3 "claws". Get a new one as the old plastic would probably be too brittle to use.
Steering wheel could be either black or white.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Original steering wheel would have been a three spoke wheel with either a horn button in the center or a chrome ring ( delux). The piece that always gets broken is the plastic disc that has 3 "claws". Get a new one as the old plastic would probably be too brittle to use.
Steering wheel could be either black or white.
Good information, thank you!
Any idea what would be the likeliest culprit that would cause the 170 in line 6 to run hot?
 

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Any idea what would be the likeliest culprit that would cause the 170 in line 6 to run hot?
Low on coolant.
Or a neglected cooling system. (Not drained and refilled frequently enough) When coolant gets too old crud builds up in the radiator or block. This keeps the system from transferring all of heat. Which leads to the cooling system running hot. Also look for externally blocked sections of the radiator.

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Low on coolant.
Or a neglected cooling system. (Not drained and refilled frequently enough) When coolant gets too old crud builds up in the radiator or block. This keeps the system from transferring all of heat. Which leads to the cooling system running hot. Also look for externally blocked sections of the radiator.

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Is it possible to get the block flushed out clean after that happens....🤔
 

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Depends on how long the debris has been in there.
The coolant in there now is unknown since you just bought the vehicle.
So you want to remove all of the coolant in the system

I would drain all of the coolant, remove the radiator and flush with a hose until clear. Remove the thermostat (it is a restriction until hot) run water through the engine until clear with engine off. I would run clean water through the heater core as well. Once done, reassemble without the thermostat and fill with water. Run the engine until heated up, drain the water out again. Depending on how clean that drain is, you may be good or may want to fill, run and drain again.

I have has some vehicles this works. Others I have had to replace a radiator because debris was so caked in the bottom of the radiator I could not get it out. Discovered that using a IR thermometer. The radiator had hot and cold spots even when the engine was very hot.

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Follow Action's suggestion to the letter. The use of an non-contact IR thermometer will help you see if the radiator has some tubes that are blocked--they would show a much lower temperature than the rest of the radiator when the engine is running and warm.
The only addition I might make would be to use a cooling system cleaner. I would do this only after trying Action's advice, and the block still appeared to not be clean. There is always a chance that the cleaner will dislodge junk and then that junk will clog the radiator.
Oh, one more thing,---when flushing the disconnected radiator with a garden hose--reverse the flow of the water a few times and see if that brings out more crud.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Follow Action's suggestion to the letter. The use of an non-contact IR thermometer will help you see if the radiator has some tubes that are blocked--they would show a much lower temperature than the rest of the radiator when the engine is running and warm.
The only addition I might make would be to use a cooling system cleaner. I would do this only after trying Action's advice, and the block still appeared to not be clean. There is always a chance that the cleaner will dislodge junk and then that junk will clog the radiator.
Oh, one more thing,---when flushing the disconnected radiator with a garden hose--reverse the flow of the water a few times and see if that brings out more crud.
Thank you for the help. What is a non contact IR thermometer and where does one purchase it, and how is it used. Btw, seller tells me that the radiator is new. It appears to be a stock type radiator not the aluminum aftermarket. Would an aluminum aftermarket radiator with more cores be advisable. A lower temperature thermostat?

09B5E01E-F034-4296-A5C1-248A0EF2DE0D.jpeg
 

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Thermometer
Non Contact Digital IR Infrared Forehead Thermometer Adult Body Temperature - Walmart.com - Walmart.com

Lower temp thermostat means the engine will warm up to operating temp slower. The job of the thermostat is to stay closed until the coolant temp gets to a certain temp. At that point the thermostat will be wide open and will no longer restrict coolant flow. From that point if the thermostat is no longer a factor in coolant flow. If coolant over heats (the definition is boiling over) it is because the system is not cooling or transferring heat out of the coolant. Not a thermostat function.

Copper v aluminum. Copper conducts heat better and is what was used when built. Cost and how easy to build has been a factor over the years as well. If both were the same size in a clean working cooling system for hobby car use, (or as a daily driver) in my opinion is there is no difference. The key is the use (Are you racing or some other extreme use) and the condition of the rest of the cooling system.
Is the water pump moving coolant or is the pump have corroded vanes?
Is there lots of debris in the engine, (Because the car sat unused or neglected) causing poor heat transfer?
Are there issues with the fan and/or fan belt?

What material makes the better Radiator: Aluminum or Copper? (motormouthradio.com)
A bigger or thicker aluminum radiator will out cool a smaller copper radiator. It isn't the material it is about the size.

The original designed worked well for a very long time. If there are issues now, it isn't because of the design, it is because of condition.
The function of other pieces of the cooling system
-The fan and water pump move air & coolant when the vehicle is stopped or slower vehicle speed and low RPM operation. At fast vehicle speeds with higher RPM the fan and to some extent the water pump are not necessary. Air is blowing fast enough through the radiator and coolant is moving such that cooling happens easily. Some early engines (100 years ago) worked well with no water pump at all!
  • Thermostat, The engine operates most efficiently when the coolant is at least at 200 degrees. (Cold combustion means all of the fuel is not burned. Generates lots of carbon and sludgy oil) The sole function of the thermostat is to get the coolant to that temp so the engine operates efficiently.
  • Radiator cap - Water boils at 212. Under pressure the boiling point is 3 degrees higher for every pound of pressure. Ten pound cap, increases the boiling point to 242 or 30 degrees higher.
  • Coolant (antifreeze) transfers heat, keeps corrosion at bay, lubricates the water pump seal. In addition coolant will increase the boiling point another 10 to 15 degrees higher. The designed temp of a modern engine is in the 220 range. For these older engines the designed operating temp is in the 205 range

If you want to keep the vehicle stock, the stock cooling system works well if well maintained. If you are going to drop a bored out V8 with a blower, you are going to need to update the cooling system among other things.

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Discussion Starter #17
Thermometer
Non Contact Digital IR Infrared Forehead Thermometer Adult Body Temperature - Walmart.com - Walmart.com

Lower temp thermostat means the engine will warm up to operating temp slower. The job of the thermostat is to stay closed until the coolant temp gets to a certain temp. At that point the thermostat will be wide open and will no longer restrict coolant flow. From that point if the thermostat is no longer a factor in coolant flow. If coolant over heats (the definition is boiling over) it is because the system is not cooling or transferring heat out of the coolant. Not a thermostat function.

Copper v aluminum. Copper conducts heat better and is what was used when built. Cost and how easy to build has been a factor over the years as well. If both were the same size in a clean working cooling system for hobby car use, (or as a daily driver) in my opinion is there is no difference. The key is the use (Are you racing or some other extreme use) and the condition of the rest of the cooling system.
Is the water pump moving coolant or is the pump have corroded vanes?
Is there lots of debris in the engine, (Because the car sat unused or neglected) causing poor heat transfer?
Are there issues with the fan and/or fan belt?

What material makes the better Radiator: Aluminum or Copper? (motormouthradio.com)
A bigger or thicker aluminum radiator will out cool a smaller copper radiator. It isn't the material it is about the size.

The original designed worked well for a very long time. If there are issues now, it isn't because of the design, it is because of condition.
The function of other pieces of the cooling system
-The fan and water pump move air & coolant when the vehicle is stopped or slower vehicle speed and low RPM operation. At fast vehicle speeds with higher RPM the fan and to some extent the water pump are not necessary. Air is blowing fast enough through the radiator and coolant is moving such that cooling happens easily. Some early engines (100 years ago) worked well with no water pump at all!
  • Thermostat, The engine operates most efficiently when the coolant is at least at 200 degrees. (Cold combustion means all of the fuel is not burned. Generates lots of carbon and sludgy oil) The sole function of the thermostat is to get the coolant to that temp so the engine operates efficiently.
  • Radiator cap - Water boils at 212. Under pressure the boiling point is 3 degrees higher for every pound of pressure. Ten pound cap, increases the boiling point to 242 or 30 degrees higher.
  • Coolant (antifreeze) transfers heat, keeps corrosion at bay, lubricates the water pump seal. In addition coolant will increase the boiling point another 10 to 15 degrees higher. The designed temp of a modern engine is in the 220 range. For these older engines the designed operating temp is in the 205 range

If you want to keep the vehicle stock, the stock cooling system works well if well maintained. If you are going to drop a bored out V8 with a blower, you are going to need to update the cooling system among other things.

Action
Thanks Action. I’m going to keep the car stock. I’m not going to be racing it, it will not be a daily driver, but rather a Sunday rider. One to two hour trips. My question about aluminum radiator wasn’t because I thought aluminum would be superior to copper, but because I’ve seen the aluminum radiators offered with additional cores for better cooling. Perhaps the same is true with copper and I’ve just not seen them. Seller also tells me the water pump was replaced and an electric fan has been installed in front of the radiator, partly visible in the photo I posted above.
 

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Seems like the seller was dealing with cooling system issues as well.
The pusher fan in front is covering for some other issue.
Fix the issue and that fan is not needed.

Dirt and grease on the exterior of the engine does retain more heat. Cleaning will help but may not be the biggest concern

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Discussion Starter #19
Seems like the seller was dealing with cooling system issues as well.
The pusher fan in front is covering for some other issue.
Fix the issue and that fan is not needed.

Dirt and grease on the exterior of the engine does retain more heat. Cleaning will help but may not be the biggest concern

Action
Yes, seller tells me it was a daily driver for him, but not far at all. It was on a 90 minute drive that it overheated one time. Anyway, when I get it here, I’ll do the flush as you prescribed, and replace belts, hoses, water pump, thermostat and maybe even radiator and see what I get from that.
 

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If the water pump and radiator are new, I would not replace those until confirmed that those have issues.

That is money that can be spent some where else. And there is always something that needs attention.Pre-1980s vehicles are maintenance pigs. Always need some type of maintenance, until neglected. Then it needs repairs.

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