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View attachment 50984

Do you have any suggestions on what to use with the press to remove these bushings?
Hello Michael Rosepal,

The upper arms can be a bit tricky if the rubber is completely gone or almost completely gone. However yours looks to be in good shape. In this case your best best is again a spacer, only longer in between the ends of the control arm. I use a steel pipe cut to length first then slice out a section along the long axis to fit around the metal extrusion holding the bushing in. You want a snug fit with the spacer.

Now you'll have to support the outside end of the control arm with a piece of heavy hollow steel large enough to allow the bushing and protruding shaft in to pass through but hold against the control arm body. You can use pipe, old FWD bearing races, etc, use your creativity.

Once you have that, attach the shaft nut back on the other end and screw on till it's perfectly flush with the shaft end threads. You'll press on this part to push out one of the bushings at a time. This is kind of cumbersome to hold together in the press, so a helper may be in order.

Now just a word of caution, obviously a press can send metal flying so do the usual protection and use common sense. Also the newer bushings may put up a struggle, pay close attention to where your pressing on the shaft end with the nut, if you think you're going to damage the threads with too much pressure, then just stop. Remember to use WD40 or some other penetrating oil to help slide the bushing casings out of the control arm.

If the above method doesn't seem to be working, then you'll have to remove the rubber from the bushings first. I've had to use a drill bit and drill in the space between the control arm shaft and the bushing casing just to remove as much rubber as I can, pull the remaining bits out with pliers. Once the rubber is out and the control arm shaft is dangling in there you can use a small blunt hand chisel and hammer and collapse part of the bushing can from the inside area of the control arm and then using small punches, etc push the partially collapsed can out the end.

The last method is tedious but it's guaranteed to work. I've done 7 of these control arms and usually the junk I end up working with has little to no rubber left and I've have to use method #2 more times than not.

Cheers
 

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Phoenix, AZ 85008
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I knew you would post eventually.
Thank you.

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The one on the top right has a visible groove. Some of the others not sure.

If the groove is significant enough the shoe will catch for a moment during brake application. It is an uncomfortable sensation in the pedal. Most of the time felt on light brake applications.

If you can smooth the area. Or better yet build it up, that would help with application. I once saw an old school tech braze those areas. He then used an ever so light application of lube when installing new shoes.

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1965 Galaxie 500 convertible
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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
The one on the top right has a visible groove. Some of the others not sure.

If the groove is significant enough the shoe will catch for a moment during brake application. It is an uncomfortable sensation in the pedal. Most of the time felt on light brake applications.

If you can smooth the area. Or better yet build it up, that would help with application. I once saw an old school tech braze those areas. He then used an every so light application of lube when installing new shoes.

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I have brazed copper pipe together, not sure how I would do that to those pads. What type of rod would I use?
 

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I do not know.
The goal is to build up that pad area. Just a little. And most of the time it needs to be filed flush a little. Should not take a lot of material.

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View attachment 51052
Question, do the pads were the brake shoes contact look okay? They have some wear marks and I’m not sure if I need to file them down a bit.
Hello,

So those pads are extrusions from the backside, filing them down would remove even more support metal. For something like this I would just use ER70 or ER80 MIG wire in a MIG welder or use TIG rod for a TIG welder and add the metal back in and then file smooth.

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Helmet Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive exterior Automotive design

Sorry it’s been awhile, just have been cleaning and prepping for paint. I pulled the driver’s side fender off and there is a material on the body I think to prevent dirt and water from going into the hinge area. Does anyone know where I can get them or the material they are made of so I can make them.
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive exterior Gas Auto part
 

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Those rear backing plates should have a high temperature lube applied on those contact areas. Most people, unfortunately, forget or simply do not know to do this.

If those fender seals are not reproduced by Classic Ford part suppliers, I HAVE heard of some using bicycle tire tubes here. Cut them in halve & to length. 👍
 

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I do not think that seal is being reproduced.
DesertXL likely knows.

Pretty sure you can make that seal as it is just flat material. The clips are shown better in the first pic are re-useable.
However, they are sharp. Be careful as I have been cut by those more than once.

Painting - I really dislike over spray. And dislike may be understated.
That seal was installed after the vehicle was painted at the factory.
Looks like it is already over sprayed once.
It is not something that is seen much. However it would be an area that would give away your paint work.
Just my OCD for what it's worth.

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
I do not think that seal is being reproduced.
DesertXL likely knows.

Pretty sure you can make that seal as it is just flat material. The clips are shown better in the first pic are re-useable.
However, they are sharp. Be careful as I have been cut by those more than once.

Painting - I really dislike over spray. And dislike may be understated.
That seal was installed after the vehicle was painted at the factory.
Looks like it is already over sprayed once.
It is not something that is seen much. However it would be an area that would give away your paint work.
Just my OCD for what it's worth.

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Are you thinking some sort of gasket material or should I make them out of rubber
 
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