1965 Ford Galaxie Suspension and front end repair and
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Did you remove the inner fenders and paint them?
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Yes I didDid you remove the inner fenders and paint them?
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I had to do some metal work on the passenger side due to the battery
Very nice and used a FL1A too. Kudos!!!
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Ebay and you are taking some risk there
AMK and they have a minimum order. Bulk Fasteners — AMK Products, Inc.
I may have some of those, but ...
I am in Michigan until the end of the month. Which means I will forget.
I keep stuff like that in a big box. (A copy paper box) Finding stuff in there has been a lil difficult as of late, because there is too much stuff in the box
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AMK and they have a minimum order. Bulk Fasteners — AMK Products, Inc.
I may have some of those, but ...
I am in Michigan until the end of the month. Which means I will forget.
I keep stuff like that in a big box. (A copy paper box) Finding stuff in there has been a lil difficult as of late, because there is too much stuff in the box
Action
If my headlights are dim or go out when I put the high beams on, it would be a ground issue. Yes?
Hello Michael Rosepal,If my headlights are dim or go out when I put the high beams on, it would be a ground issue. Yes?
First let me say you did a really nice job on your car. About the headlamps being dim, well that could be a bad ground or a bad B+ feed to them: It could be loose or corroded connections at the firewall connectors, a bad hi-low switch, dirty circuit breakers inside the headlamp switch and of course the one thing I noticed is that Ford didn't really use heavy gauge wire for the lamps and are what I would call dim at the best of circumstances.
You can run relays with inline circuit breakers for the lamps triggered from the original headlamp wires to alleviate most of the conditions I mentioned. I did this on our '68 XL and '79 Power Wagon, plus I used 100/140 watt lamps to replace the original miserable sealed beam headlamps. That's 200 watts on low beams and 560 watts on high beams! They are ridiculously bright in high or low now and I love them. I am using the original 1G 55 amp alternator and external regulator. The charging system only struggles with the high beams on, the air con on high and sitting at idle. However as long as you are moving the original charging system has no problem holding 14.2 volts at the battery.
Food for thought.
Cheers
Thank you DesertXL, I’ll be doing more to it in November again. I will start checking out the wiring and switches.
When I was reinstalling the front engine harness I missed a ground. The good thing is I cleaned the con at the firewall. Thanks for the help!Hello Michael Rosepal,
First let me say you did a really nice job on your car. About the headlamps being dim, well that could be a bad ground or a bad B+ feed to them: It could be loose or corroded connections at the firewall connectors, a bad hi-low switch, dirty circuit breakers inside the headlamp switch and of course the one thing I noticed is that Ford didn't really use heavy gauge wire for the lamps and are what I would call dim at the best of circumstances.
You can run relays with inline circuit breakers for the lamps triggered from the original headlamp wires to alleviate most of the conditions I mentioned. I did this on our '68 XL and '79 Power Wagon, plus I used 100/140 watt lamps to replace the original miserable sealed beam headlamps. That's 200 watts on low beams and 560 watts on high beams! They are ridiculously bright in high or low now and I love them. I am using the original 1G 55 amp alternator and external regulator. The charging system only struggles with the high beams on, the air con on high and sitting at idle. However as long as you are moving the original charging system has no problem holding 14.2 volts at the battery.
Food for thought.
Cheers
What a great day for a car show
Hope everyone is havi a good summer and Happy 4th of July. I have been enjoying my galaxie but have a problem with the the carb(motorcraft 4100). I rebuilt it last year but ever since it seems to stick on a high idle after I accelerate to pass someone. I thought it mite have been the secondary. when I play with the linkage by the choke it will drop back down to normal and will run fine as long as I don’t punch it. Could this be caused by worn bushing on the shafts for the throttle plates? I know this is a hard question to answer without seeing or hearing it but a couple ideas would be great.
Choke not fully releasing the high idle cam?
Engine hot and off
Air cleaner off
"Punch it" the look at the linkage at the choke area. Is it hung up or closed?
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Engine hot and off
Air cleaner off
"Punch it" the look at the linkage at the choke area. Is it hung up or closed?
Action
+1Choke not fully releasing the high idle cam?
Engine hot and off
Air cleaner off
"Punch it" the look at the linkage at the choke area. Is it hung up or closed?
Action
Also check the fast idle lever/cam, it's probably plastic but I've seen metal used on these, however it should rotate freely about the choke thermostat shaft on the back side. For the linkages after cleaning use a lubricant like Tri-Flow on them. It's a light oil that when it evaporates it still leaves Teflon behind for continued lubrication. If the fast idle cam arm is sticking to the choke shaft when you punch it, you loose vacuum and the choke pull off and the fast idle cam might rotate enough to engage the fast idle portion.
Another note is to check the throttle shaft and throttle lever. The throttle lever is swaged onto the throttle shaft but it can become loose and move somewhat independently of the throttle shaft. If this is the case you can very carefully peen the throttle lever tight back to the throttle shaft.
Cheers
Sorry it has taken so long to respond. I checked the linkage and all seemed tight. I could not get it to stick while hot and off. I went around and lubed all the linkage. I will keep you updated with the results.+1
Also check the fast idle lever/cam, it's probably plastic but I've seen metal used on these, however it should rotate freely about the choke thermostat shaft on the back side. For the linkages after cleaning use a lubricant like Tri-Flow on them. It's a light oil that when it evaporates it still leaves Teflon behind for continued lubrication. If the fast idle cam arm is sticking to the choke shaft when you punch it, you loose vacuum and the choke pull off and the fast idle cam might rotate enough to engage the fast idle portion.
Another note is to check the throttle shaft and throttle lever. The throttle lever is swaged onto the throttle shaft but it can become loose and move somewhat independently of the throttle shaft. If this is the case you can very carefully peen the throttle lever tight back to the throttle shaft.
Cheers
Okay, I have driven several times and I the carb is running great. Thank you as always.
I was wondering, does a fender from a country squire fit a convertible or is it to short?
I was wondering, does a fender from a country squire fit a convertible or is it to short?
Hello Michael Rosepal,Okay, I have driven several times and I the carb is running great. Thank you as always.
I was wondering, does a fender from a country squire fit a convertible or is it to short?
The full size station wagons should have the same front end/clip as the 2/4 door and vert cars. Glad to hear the carb is working normally.
Cheers
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