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I swear the engine paint color change from previous posts.

Lighting!!!!

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Discussion Starter #182
I swear the engine paint color change from previous posts.

Lighting!!!!

Action
Hi Action,

Yuppers, lighting. I have dual 50 watt LED lamps right above the engine (yellow stick in the background) and one is soft white and the other cool white. It plays havoc with the camera but it's easy on the eyes in person.

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Discussion Starter #183
More Engine Minutiae

46764


The lower fittings are for the engine oil filter adapter that go to the oil cooler. However I also need to make a small loop hose section so I can test the oil pump once I finish the oil pan. That's the above leftover fittings and hose.

46765


This is the orientation and hose fitting for the cars oil cooler lines.

46766


The make shift oil loop hose for now and new Wix oil filter.

46767


Back to the Edelbrock fuel rails.... So this is their mounting scheme for these. But.........

46768


This is the hardware that was included.... Um ok Edelbrock I have just one question and let me say this calmly and respectfully as I can, <sigh> WHAT THE HECK AM I SUPPOSED TO DO WITH THIS?!

Enter more money and time.... McMaster to the rescue.

46769


I ordered 2 feet of that rod above and machined those standoffs out of it. The long bolts I had to cut about 1/4" off. Then I needed a lock washer. So those are serrated conical stainless lock washers that fit under the head of the bolt and in the recess in the fuel rail. To keep it from gouging the aluminum, there's a stainless flat washer to protect the aluminum rail. This was 75 bucks just in hardware and shipping then I had to do the machining.

46770


46771


Thank goodness for the DRO on this!

46772


Here's my super crude drawing on the fly for the standoffs. Too bad Edelbrock probably won't see this.

46773


Are we good or what :p

Continued in the next post.
 

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Discussion Starter #184
More Engine Minutiae Continued

46774


The fuel rail is positioned so the injectors are floating about 30 thou vertically so there is no binding or pressure on the injectors.

46775


OK so that's done, other than painting them the same colour as the engine block.

46776


Some more parts trickled in from Rock Auto. The knock sensors and coolant temp sensor and connectors. Even though the sensors come with sealant on the threads I applied a smidge of Ultra Black RTV on them as well.

46777


46778


46779


46780


New plugs as well and applied copper high temp anti-seize to the threads.

46781


OK, gaskets. This is where I've been burned by Fel-Pro twice now and I used to have a high regard for them. First it was the intake gaskets they sell for the medium riser port #1247. I used these on the LTD's 390 and they already failed. That engine started running rough and burning oil and the car isn't even finished yet. Then thinking it was maybe a bad valve steam sealed I pulled the rocker covers of which I used FEL VS13049R rubber gaskets and the short time they've been on there they have expanded to point where I had to fight them to get them back under the cover lip.

With that rant out of way I am trying other brands for the rocker cover. I've already done research on the #1247 for the FE medium port riser and this is old news it seems as I found esoteric blog entries about how Fel Pro knows those are failure prone because there is no steel core in them and they just pull in under vacuum if the intake sealing pressure isn't perfect on them. Fel Pro makes a #1247S-3 which is the exact same gasket with a steel core and is the reliable one. The really annoying part is Fel Pro still makes the worthless 1247 and when do you a search for FE medium riser this number pops up. It's like you need to know the secret Masons handshake to get clued in on the 1247S-3. :rolleyes:

Back to rocker cover gaskets, the one on the right is a Cometic brand gasket and the left are quite obviously Mahle's. I'll try the Mahle's in the LTD's 390 and the Cometic's in this engine and see which lasts longer.

46782


This one Cometic rocker cover gasket costs more than both Mahle's. The Cometic's is a very hard rubber almost solid like. Both will still need some RTV because of the FE's goofy head/intake interface plus stamped steel rocker covers.

46783


Continued in next post.
 

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Discussion Starter #185 (Edited)
More Engine Minutiae Continued

46784


The fuel rails and standoff's are painted and installed. Now for some fittings.

46785


For some reason Edelbrock chose 1/4" NPST instead of 1/4" NPT on the fuel rails. I really wish they used the taper thread. The straight thread just complicates things and makes for more expensive fittings.

The only fittings I could find with straight thread to 6 AN were transmission fittings and the thread is cut a bit on the loose side, but I'm out of options.

46786


I need to add these to the straight fittings in order to swing down for the interconnecting piece between the rails. Now they do sell an elbow with straight cut threads to AN6 but it's a swivel joint with some kind of internal O-ring. This makes me nervous as I can't see the quality of the O-ring or the machining and having it hold pressurized 43 PSI fuel sitting atop a hot engine is a recipe for disaster. Actually ruinous ball of fire comes to mind, but you get the idea. So I opted for hard interface separate fittings, no O-rings.

46787


46788


So on the back this is the plan; the fuel pump (in the tank) will push fuel up to the apron, then pass through a fuel filter then into the drivers side back rail, loop around to the front of the passenger side rail, then to a return regulator, then back to the tank.

46789


Yuppers here we go again. I really want to use an OEM production car common fuel pressure regulator. This is the only one I could find to work with this. Otherwise it was generic aftermarket ones that hang on an apron or firewall and just looks tacky in my opinion, plus how well are they built comes to mind.

As much as I just love Edelbrock, they were the only ones to have this option of a common GM 43 PSI pressure regulator that would screw into the fuel rail and have the return fitting 6AN. Now the reviews on Summit were horrible for this... gee go figure. Sure enough what they said was true, but I after a quick quoting of what tooling it would take and materials to make a better set of adapter fittings, it's 3 times the price of this plus labour. So weirdly this was still the better way to go and just modify this to correct the problems.

46790


So it would go here. I'm still working on it so it isn't ready for permanent installation yet.

I do need to add a fuel pressure sensor, well not really as I could characterize the fuel pressure regulator to pressure vs manifold vacuum, but I thought why not just add the sensor anyway.

46791


This isn't the exact sensor as this goes to 100 PSI, but I have a 60PSI one that looks just like it on the way. This is actually one of the oil pressure sensors (using this analog and secondary one that's the cars original).

46792


It'll go here midway between both rails and sitting on the interconnecting line. All I need to do is cut, bend and AN flare some stainless 3/8" line.

On the topic of sensors and modules I also bought this to experiment with:

46793


The plan is still to develop my own ECU, but my fall back plan is to use MegaSquirt 3. This is the knock sensor module. The actual knock sensor is just a piezoelectric microphone and this modules listens with set thresholds, hysteresis, etc and sends out a logic change upon substantiated knock detection. So I can play with this in the lab and simulate inputs and characterize it as I'd like to just incorporate this function into my ECU.

Until next time.

Cheers
:)
 

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It is interesting on the direction you have chosen. This arrangement will require a harness. Looking forward to that.

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Discussion Starter #187
It is interesting on the direction you have chosen. This arrangement will require a harness. Looking forward to that.

Action
Hello Action,

Funny thing, the harness will be childs play compared to developing a control system :)

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #188
More Engine Parts

Hello All,

I apologize if it seems like I'm all over the place. The truth is I am. There's so much to do to get right in retrofitting this old FE, sometimes one part of the process stalls on waiting on parts or indeed waiting on me.

I'm basically playing FE integration engineer for a 50+ year old car. The one man band plays a slower tune.

But here's some more progress

46865


This was a win, well sort of. These debuted for 1968 on Fords and are just what I needed for the '66's. Now on the '66 LTD I hit the jackpot at the junkyard as there was an FE with '68 rocker covers and two of these on there. I can't use '65-'66 FE rocker covers because they will hit the roller rockers. The factory '68 covers are taller so that works out. You wouldn't believe how much now-a-days a set of used beat up steel '68 FE rocker covers go for. Holy crap. Anyway even with the old oil separators I had to carefully undue the steel lip holding the cans together, take out the steel mesh that was disintegrating, remake that out of stainless steel scrub mesh you get at the grocery store, then metal work the can shut and powder coat. So when I saw Scott Drake repopping these for 30 bucks each, well now, that seemed like quite the bargain. Although the paint job on these isn't all that and a bag of chips. I think I did a much better job rebuilding the original ones. But this still saves 4 solid hours of work.

46866


I felt almost euphoric opening a package, removing a part and placing directly on the engine without a lengthy intervention. And that is just sad.

46867


But back to the crappy reality and having to make my own parts. As you can see I had to drill the bottom of the new fitting to insert the stainless thin wall tubing. The rotted old heater hose fitting is above and of course there are repops but not in the size I need. Either the heater hose diameter is wrong or the pipe thread size is wrong, or both are wrong. GGGRrrrrrr

46868


Again Ford being a pain in the.... well you know. So for the 3rd gen full size Ford with factory air con, Ford magically decided to use two different heater cores. One with same size heater hoses and one for mixed size heater hose.

Why? I have no bloody idea.

Some of the Fords we have were mixed and some were the same. That heater hose fitting depends on which heater core you have. There is no other physical difference in the heater core and are interchangeable. So to keep things simple I've bought all the same size size heater hose heater cores for all the cars already. I've noticed the brass and copper heater cores slowly disappearing, so I've already bought everything needed for the complete HVAC system for this '66 gal 500 XL and the '68 XL future project. Plus in keeping all the heater hose the same size I can just buy one big roll of silicon heater hose and just keep it all simple.

46869


Before when I made this fitting for the '66 LTD. I had to TIG the thin wall stainless tubing to the chunky steel fitting. I can tell you that's no easy feat as stainless does not transfer heat well, but steel does. The fitting is much thicker and requires a high current setting. You have to focus the puddle of molten metal on the fitting and wash it up just long enough onto the stainless tube where you can see it melt in and then move back down and over on the fitting. 1/4 of a second too long on the stainless tube and you burn through it. In other words you really have to be on your welding 'A' game to pull that off.

I wanted to find an less intensive way to fuse the metals together and one that doesn't require concentration of a brain surgeon. Regular solder and flux will not work on stainless. So I found this. Silver solder and really nasty acid flux specifically designed to join stainless to itself or to steel.

It worked really well. It's toxic as toxic gets but worked easy and well.

46870


I could have used a little more flux but there's enough adhesion to the stainless for this application. The flux is just pure battery acid (sulfuric acid) with some other chemicals tossed in to enhance the toxic experience when heated.

46871


Blackened, clear coated and cured.

46872


Brand new Mr. Fan Clutch.

46873


Here's an experiment for now. So in the interim I'm still going ahead with the Duraspark II dizzy. But I need to find a more clever way to ID #1 cylinder. So I bought these pole wheels from Rock Auto to experiment on. They look to be made from powdered metal and I needed to see if I can braze to them. That part worked, braze melts and sticks well to these. So I need to cut off two poles off of one and fatten up the #1 pole only on the opposite of the triggering side. That should provide me with a lower amplitude but wider pulse for #1.

I said should, we'll see if the thickness vs the math of max rate of change of engine angular velocity works out vs signal integrity. This is still in the works.

46874


I made the stainless fuel lines to connect the front of the fuel rails together to the 90˚ elbow and also attached the fuel pressure sensor there as well. I still have to make a support bracket off the front bolts of the throttle body and have it connect to the adel clamp to support the lines and fuel pressure transducer.

Continued in next post
 

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Discussion Starter #189
More Engine Parts continued

carrying on....

46875


New rotor for the wide cap adapter (reduces the chance for spark scatter). Also is a GM 1 bar MAP sensor and pigtail that will mount behind the throttle body.

46876


It's hard to find a black cap for this. They all seem to be in gray. I know I'm just picky but I've come thus far already.

46877


For ignition wires I just went with a '77 T-Bird with a 400.

46878


46879


I think they'll work. I ordered wire holders for the rockers and generic organizers.

46880


The ignition coil needs a new home as 2 injectors and a fuel rail occupy its old space. I think above the alternator and behind the big accessory plate would work. With that I need to prep and assemble those parts.

46881


46882


46883


Now this is an oddity that's driving me crazy. The timing cover timing pointer resides in between the single pulley harmonic damper and the outer accessory pulley. If I flip the pointer around it's well above the accessory pulley and kind of in outer space. The other odd thing is that it points right on at 0˚TDC on the single pulley underneath but is several degrees off on the outer pulley. ??????????

I don't get it.

I thought I was missing obvious ( I tend to do that). But when I referenced the '66 LTD's 390 its pointer is atop the outer pulley just like I thought it should be. Then after studying the pointer on the LTD it's actually different. Well what the.....

So for now I just remarked 0˚ TDC on the outer pulley until I figure out a better plan.

46884


Since this engine has aluminum heads and aluminum is unforgiving on overheating I wanted a fail safe thermostat.

Continued in next post.
 

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Discussion Starter #190
More Engine Parts continued

46885


I've rebuilt a handfull of these early 1G's years ago, so this was as simple as take off the shelf and dust it off.

46886


46887


Just a quick recap, it received new front and rear bearing, new brushes, slip rings refinished, stator windings enameled, and new bridge rectifier. I tested each of the 3 phases of the stator for interwinding shorts using an inductance tester as well as the rotor and of course shorts to the case via an ohmeter. The rectifier diodes were also verified. Everything checks out on the ones I rebuilt.

46888


46889


New alternator and coolant pump belt.

46890


Some new bits. For oil pressure monitoring I'm using two senders; the cars original to directly drive the "OIL" lamp in the dash and a 0-100 PSI transducer. Also is a carb/TBI throttle cable ball assortment pack.

46891


46892


46893


46894


Continued in next post.
 

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Discussion Starter #191
More Engine Parts continued

46895


The old FE is starting to look busy if not possibly more modern. This old gal 500 XL is starting to come along. It's definitely not your fathers Oldsmobile :) Remember those old commercials....

46896


This was another sort of win. Anyone who has a 65/66 Ford full size with an FE and factory air con knows the refrigerant compressor idler and tension pulleys are unobtanium.

I fought this battle on the LTD. I can only surmise Ford hired out the pulley with integrated bearing from an outside European source at the time and Ford made the cast iron base. Let's have a look at one more closely.

46897


The inner shaft is the inner race for the bearing/pulley. It simply presses in the base. The inner race/shaft is Imperial/English however the outer race diameter is dead on even metric and so is the inside of the pulley where the bearing resides. It's a safe wager no-one currently makes that screwball bearing.

46898


On the LTD's 390, at the time this was the biggest generic pulley I could find that was widely available. It's a Gates 1/2" belt pulley. But these are smaller in diameter than the Ford goofball pulleys. Now for the tensioner pulley it didn't matter as I could simply use a smaller diameter belt. So I made a new shaft that the pulley screwed onto (like a newer car) and still pressed into the old Ford base. OK, that was somewhat straight forward and not to painful.

However the idler pulley was a bit of a struggle. I made one for that too, but the diameter of the newer Gates pulley's were just too small and when the compressor was running the belt was slapping the smaller idler.

46899


My original attempt. The tensioner pulley worked just fine, the idler did not as it was too small.

Out of pure dumb luck, one of our 66 fastbacks came with California emissions which includes a different front dress for the air pump and it had a large idler pulley that used a standard replaceable bearing.

46900


Another round of machining was in order.

46902


46903


Works like a charm, however I can't find this rare pulley neither so I can use it on the other 390's.

I was just about resigned to removing this pulley off the 1966 LTD's 390 and sending it to a machine shop for multiple duplication and just eat the expense. But then I did one last search online and whalaa.

46904


46905


These are the same diameter pulley. I can use these pulley's and just toss the bolts, frames and standoffs. The bearing is a no name wanna bet it's Chinesium crap as there is more play than I'd like to see. With that they are a common bearing so I ordered Timken bearings to replace them. Still far cheaper than paying a machine shop to replicate the old California emissions idler pulley. I ordered quite a few of these from Rock Auto and cleaned them out as these were only 18 bucks each. Now I see they have more but are more expensive.

More to come.

Cheers
 

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More Engine Parts

Hello All,

I apologize if it seems like I'm all over the place. The truth is I am. There's so much to do to get right in retrofitting this old FE, sometimes one part of the process stalls on waiting on parts or indeed waiting on me.

I'm basically playing FE integration engineer for a 50+ year old car. The one man band plays a slower tune.
This has gone past a refurbishment. Closer to a work of FE art. (Don't combine those)
The Sistine Chapel took four years for Michelangelo to complete.
It is a thing of beauty.

Action
 
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