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Discussion Starter · #261 ·
Front Seats Restoration Part 11

We finally finished the front seats. Turns out the drivers side had broken seat tracks that I didn't even catch because they were covered in nasty. Let's face it that whole car was just covered in nasty.

It's still smokey at times here because of the New Mexico fires, so some days it's best to work inside with the windows closed and air con on. Perfect for upholstery.

Just a quick side track, here's the fires from our front porch. Kind of cool photos.

Sky Electricity Overhead power line Plant Tree


That's a 200 mm telephoto.

Sky Pollution Fire Tree Hazard


And a 500 mm telephoto. My better half is an avid photographer and took these shots. That fire was so hot they were reporting that trees 1/2 mile in front of the fire line were exploding from the quick boiling of water and sap. They stopped the aeronautical dropping of water on the main fire because a 2000 gal water drop never made it to the ground. Now that's hot!

Anyway back to the ol galaxie.

The drivers seat:

Triangle Rectangle Wood Font Beige


Hood Wood Beige Motor vehicle Cap


That's the main section of the seat bottom done, it sat and stretched whilst we worked on the top.

Rectangle Wood Grey Beige Flooring


This is the old burlap with the rods.

Sleeve Rectangle Beige Font Pattern


Old rods in new burlap.

Automotive lighting Grille Bag Bumper Automotive tire


Ingredient Wood Dish Cuisine Rectangle


Slicing new channels in the 1965 foam for 1966 seat covers.

Musical instrument Bag Folk instrument Wood Font


The seat cover with the rods in the seat cover tied back to the rods in the seat frame and the upper burlap area installed.

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The top cover more or less on.

Continued in next post.
 

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Discussion Starter · #262 ·
Front Seats Restoration Part 12

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Exploring for the holes and poking new holes in new covers always adds a certain anxiety. But the top slide brackets are in.

Hood Composite material Gas Electric blue Automotive exterior


The back cover ready to go on. Just left it original blue for funzies on the inside.

Comfort Automotive design Wood Interior design Beige


Grille Office equipment Bumper Automotive exterior Automotive design


The seat bottom prepped for the upper to attach.

Motor vehicle Comfort Automotive design Couch Wood


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Geeze you need to eat your Wheaties to manually spread those pivot arms on the top to go over the fulcrum stubs.

Automotive tire Grey Road surface Beach Asphalt


The seat back hardware is a bit different than the passenger side seat. Weird.

Automotive parking light Hood Automotive lighting Luggage and bags Bag


Tool Bumper Automotive exterior Wood Auto part


Both seat tracks were broken at one time probably from an overweight individual rocking in the seat and fractured metal on both sides, now someone had welded them, but good grief that's terrible.

White Automotive tire Tire Bumper Automotive exterior


There's some plate they added and it doesn't sit flush at all with the floor. So I cut this back apart and removed that plate and used the floor as a jig.

Continued in next post.
 

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Discussion Starter · #263 ·
Front Seats Restoration Part 13

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I repaired one seat track already and this is the picture of the second one. So I check to make sure the seat tracks are flush with the floor braces, level with respect to each other and the seat holes are in square. Then I used 4130 TIG welding rod (lord this stuff skyrocketed in price) and TIG'd the pieces back together mostly whilst attached to the floor. 4130 rod is a good alloy that resists cracking from constant flexing. I made the weld wide and hoping for good flow into parent material to imbue this property in the molten zone so no extra plates are needed. Plus this 4130 rod is harder and stronger than ordinary Er70.

Bicycle part Automotive exterior Bumper Carbon Rim


Here's the finished repair on one of the tracks. You get the idea for the other one. Also the extreme weight of the individual splayed the tracks U section apart so I had to squeeze it back together. These poor things were so abused.

Machine gun Air gun Trigger Gun barrel Gun accessory


Typewriter Office equipment Font Gas Table


All back together, greased and the cross linkage adjusted.

Window Motor vehicle Automotive design Comfort Chair


Holy smokes (quite literally outside) these puppies are done. These were hideous to do and such a time vampire.

Just to recap what these looked like.

Vehicle Car Window Motor vehicle Car seat cover


Window Car Vehicle Motor vehicle Car seat cover


What a pile of ........... :poop:

:whistle:


This concludes the seats.

My better half tackled the package shelf.

Motor vehicle Automotive exterior Font Wall Bumper


All the insulation just disintegrated that was glued to it.

Bag Wood Gas Automotive exterior Luggage and bags


The top needs some scrubbing. Now this is interesting as I have seen '66 gal 500 XL's and 7 Litre packages with a pressboard one of these and it they just fall apart. This is metal one. It's nice in that it's easily cleaned and painted but geeze will you crack the base of your skull on that high rear crown behind the seat if someone rear ends you. So just put the people you don't like in the back seat :unsure:.

Motor vehicle Bumper Automotive design Automotive exterior Wood


It came out pretty good in the new colour. Still have to sort out the emblem in the middle of the speaker grill area, but otherwise this is done.

Continued in next post.
 

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Discussion Starter · #264 ·
Cowl Replacement Continued.

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After the coats of POR 15 in the interior of the cowl, the 3M seam sealer was applied to the interior.

Automotive tire Automotive design Motor vehicle Automotive exterior Automotive wheel system


Next the splash guard had to be welded back in. So I prepped the area and welded that in.

Motor vehicle Automotive design Automotive exterior Engineering Gas


Hood Motor vehicle Automotive exterior Bumper Engineering


Prepped the side piece and welded that in.

Hood Motor vehicle Bumper Automotive exterior Vehicle


Motor vehicle Automotive tire Hood Bumper Automotive exterior


Motor vehicle Automotive exterior Automotive tire Vehicle Automotive design


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Same thing applied to this side.

Car Vehicle Tire Motor vehicle Hood


Hood Motor vehicle Automotive tire Vehicle Automotive design


So this cowl is mix match of pieces of different cars and you would think the stampings would be similar and they should interchange easily. No. They didn't. I had to massage quite a bit on this side to get the seams closed. It's clear they had different dies for different cars (heater only vs factory HVAC) or different factories. Dunno, but they are different. I spent quite a bit of time on this. Even the front section lines up different. I doubled and triple checked the critical dimensions on everything and all seems well. Just drove me nuts.

Continued in next post.
 

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Discussion Starter · #265 ·
Cowl Replacement Continued.

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I gave it another coat of POR 15 over the welded areas.

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I know I seem like a anti corrosion religious zealot, but having grown up in the rust belt I'm paranoid after loosing a couple cars to insidious rust. I want to be able to drive this thing in all but the worst conditions and know I don't have to worry about it.

The cowl welding is done! All that's left is to install the door nut plates.

In the midst of this I did cut the hole for the floor shift.

Tire Wheel Motor vehicle Automotive tire Vehicle


This is the centre console and I needed to mark out a proper size hole and not the meteor hole Ford originally cut.

Hood Motor vehicle Vehicle Automotive lighting Wood


This is the piece of the original floor with the hole cut by Ford, or rather Ray Charles by the looks of it. I have what I believe to be an adequate hole marked out in the floor above it. Big difference.......

Hood Automotive tire Motor vehicle Wood Automotive exterior


Seems to work just fine in that small hole. One nice thing about an HVAC firewall is that cavernous centre opening so I can stick myself through and shoot this photo.

I bought a generic boot but being the fulcrum is up top and not under the tunnel it won't really work well. I shall have to return to the mothership to have a think about this further on what to use as a boot for the long term.

More to come.
 

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The Ford resto-hero lives! I was looking for your project and forgot you were over here on the Galaxy thread, so I'd missed your updates. Wonderful work you're doing and a big inspiration to my own ongoing efforts. I'd be out in the garage right now had my air compressor not failed recently.

Lots of great insight seeing how in depth you're able to go. And living in the rust belt myself, I fully agree; there's never too much rust prevention!
 

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Discussion Starter · #267 ·
The Ford resto-hero lives! I was looking for your project and forgot you were over here on the Galaxy thread, so I'd missed your updates. Wonderful work you're doing and a big inspiration to my own ongoing efforts. I'd be out in the garage right now had my air compressor not failed recently.

Lots of great insight seeing how in depth you're able to go. And living in the rust belt myself, I fully agree; there's never too much rust prevention!
Hello Davy Somers,

You are most kind for your comment. Did you get a new compressor or fix the old one?

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter · #268 ·
Interior HVAC Plenum Part 1

I have two HVAC plenums to go, I finished the heater core plenum and decided to tackle the interior plenum next. These are all pretty roached so there is a high probability that yours will be in better shape. I guess these are more worst case scenario situations.

Wood Bumper Motor vehicle Automotive exterior Engineering


I picked one out of three to redo. They are all about in the same condition.

Automotive tire Gas Composite material Wood Machine


The other two will be part donors if need be.

Motor vehicle Combat vehicle Self-propelled artillery Gas Wood


Motor vehicle Hood Automotive tire Bumper Vehicle


SITREP: The foam is either missing, or falling apart. The rubber on the fresh air door is starting to delaminate from the steel door. The steel evaporator inset is rusting, the plastic case has cracks, but the air door servos are still good, so that's something.

Blue Bumper Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive exterior


First step is removing the main foam section to expose the rivets to drill out in order to separate the steel surround plate.

Motor vehicle Wood Bumper Automotive exterior Gas


Then drill out seemingly a million other rivets to take the whole thing apart. Ford packed parts of this with Automotive Bedding Compound and it's a pain to remove and clean. It's just slightly less annoying to deal with than butyl.

Table Motor vehicle Automotive exterior Bumper Wood


This is after walnut blasting. The plastic is in decent shape, and I decided to fix the broken spots and just clear coat this one inside and out. Since this plastic plenum is on the inside of the cabin it sees less heat and hydrocarbon exposure so it isn't degraded as the engine bay side plenums.

Plus I did find a little bit of body seam sealer in here, which of course is Asbestos in a rubber binder from Ford. So it's a good thing to have that removed.

Product Hood Motor vehicle Bumper Automotive design


After countless hours of blasting, repairing and painting, here's the parts ready for reassembly.

Hood Automotive tire Audio equipment Gas Automotive design


Here's where I am going to do things a bit different than factory. I am going to use this very sticky insulating tape on parts of the steel evaporator inset.

Hood Automotive design Bumper Automotive exterior Wood


The reason for this is this steel inset piece sees the cool air from the evaporator and on a muggy hot day this will sweat like mad in the plastic plenum. Now the unique design of the plenum exposes the back side of this steel inset to the defrost (windscreen passage) and heat (floor) passage. If this starts condensing water from the interior it will start raining water out of the heater vents from the plenum.

One problem I have noted with these air con systems is the evaporator temperature is controlled stritctly by the thermostat and not refrigerant pressure as a more modern vehicle would be. That means if the thermostat has a set point lower than freezing it will take the evaporator down that cold. In my '68 XL on full cold the air coming out of the dash vents is so cold it hurts your hands. Add a muggy day and it would be raining condensate from the back side of this metal insert and all over the carpet by your feet. In order to mitigate that, if I insulate the back and side, that should preclude that possibility.

Continued in next post.
 

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Discussion Starter · #269 ·
Interior HVAC Plenum Part 2

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This is the idea to start.

Black Rectangle Wood Gas Font


White Light Black Blue Guitar accessory


Hood Bumper Trunk Motor vehicle Automotive exterior


To get a better idea of what I'm talking about, that metal insert goes straight in. The upper air channel is the defrost to the windscreen section and the lower portion is the floor heat air channel. That metal insert divides three distinct air channels (heat/defrost/air con to centre dash vents). It's clever in an ignorant way. This is because whilst is a good use of limited area under the dash, the whole system is a bit retarded because you cannot get dehumidified hot air to the windscreen where it would really help reduce fogging than regular heated outside air, which of course is what you get with these 65-68 full size systems.

Food Ingredient Material property Font Cuisine


I am going to use a host of this generic aftermarket EPDM weatherstripping to put this back together.

Wood Rectangle Art Automotive tire Hood


Instead of packing the underside with gobs of nasty Automotive Bedding Compound I am going to use weather strip to seal it off.

Hood Bumper Automotive exterior Gas Auto part


Here's a better shot where you can see the lower heat passage formed by the metal insert and the upper defrost passage formed. Not less forgetting the obvious air con dash passage formed in the centre. This is a test fit.

Automotive exterior Gas Automotive tire Bumper Auto part


Before you can install the big metal evaporator insert this side heat vent must be installed. Now this was all originally riveted together. I am choosing to use stainless fasteners rather that rivets for two really good reasons. First the plastic is aged and getting brittle and any unnecessary crimping force can split/crack it. Secondly Ford used Rosette style rivets because they spread out the load and do not crimp as hard. Those rivets are very hard to find and expensive when you do find them. The stainless hardware I used is expensive but easy to source and I can control how much clamping force to use.

Wood Hood Bumper Automotive exterior Computer keyboard


I decided to acorn nuts because I still have loads of custom wiring to do in this confined dash space and one of pet peeves is sharp items cutting my hands. Using regular nuts or KL nuts would probably lead to that. Plus I think the acorn nut looks nicer.

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Now this can get installed.

Continued in next post.
 

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Discussion Starter · #270 ·
Interior HVAC Plenum Part 3

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These items when attached also hold the big metal insert into the plenum.

Bumper Motor vehicle Gas Audio equipment Electronic instrument


Bumper Automotive exterior Office equipment Gas Motor vehicle


Here's a better view of the insulation tape I used to control condensate from the air con in the defrost passage.

Bumper Typewriter Office equipment Gas Automotive exterior


And the heater/floor section. You can see it would just dribble out the floor vents if allowed to build up.

Blue Automotive tire Bumper Automotive exterior Office supplies


Evaporator support goes in next.

Gas Technology Bumper Machine Wood


Asphalt Font Sky Art Cloud


Next I installed the hose straps.

Wood Rolling stock Motor vehicle Railway Bumper


Originally they were up-side-down, this arrangement seemed to make a little more sense.

Automotive tire Wood Font Gas Tree


Next are the brackets to hold two vacuum servos on.

Automotive tire Bumper Motor vehicle Gas Wood


Now on those I had to use KL nuts because the servos wouldn't clear the acorn nut, but since the servos cover the KL nuts it doesn't matter.

Continued in next post.
 

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Discussion Starter · #271 ·
Interior HVAC Plenum Part 4

Blue Paint Font Asphalt Art


Next was to install the defrost/floor (heat) mode door. In heat mode, you can either get heated outside air to the windscreen or floor. This is the door that selects that by allowing incoming air to the upper passage or the lower passage in this plenum.

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Bumper Trunk Mode of transport


It's hard to visualize this without the other mating plenum but the heated outside air is coming from straight in. The door just directs that air either up or down.

Automotive tire Audio equipment Gas Wood Composite material


This is the defrost/floor(heat) mode door servo.

Fluid Font Gas Transparency Stain


For the push on retainers I found these at McMaster.

Font Circle Fashion accessory Metal Pattern


More than you'll ever need at a reasonable price.

Automotive tire Hood Motor vehicle Bumper Automotive exterior


That's installed and adjusted. You adjust by sliding the servo on elongated mounting holes so the door goes all the way to the top of the plenum in default spring loaded position.

Blue Automotive tire Wood Gas Circle


Next is the recirculation door. I just used generic aftermarket automotive grade sealing foam.

Blue Rectangle Floor Font Gas


There's no reason to cover the entire door, the perimeter will do just fine.

White Laptop accessory Bumper Gas Automotive exterior


Bolt that one back in.

Blue Wood Gas Engineering Composite material


The recirc door servo goes in next.

Continued in next post.
 

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Discussion Starter · #272 ·
Interior HVAC Plenum Part 5

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Installed and sanity checking both doors for proper operation.

Fluid Gas Bumper Audio equipment Solvent


The last door is the fresh air door. The tinermans go in first.

Gas Wood Automotive exterior Audio equipment Plumbing fixture


Input device Gas Computer keyboard Electrical wiring Wire


Unfortunately all these fresh air doors had rubber that was starting to delaminate. So I smeared some ultra black RTV around the areas where the rubber was lifting off to stop it from progressing. The rest of the rubber is extremely pliable and serviceable.

Automotive tire Bumper Automotive exterior Motor vehicle Gas


Door installed and servo attached.

Blue Gas Kitchen utensil Bumper Automotive exterior


It's not pretty, but given the unique construction of the door (vulcanized perimeter) this will do for many years to come.

Motor vehicle Naval architecture Automotive exterior Vehicle Bumper


All the doors were checked now and everything is working smoothly.
Now to prep for the steel outer ring on the plenum.

Blue Automotive tire Gas Auto part Font


The large tinnermans are installed.

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Along with the lower shield studs.

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Continued in next post.
 

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Discussion Starter · #273 ·
Interior HVAC Plenum Part 6

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This is the material Ford used on this originally. It's messy so I want to use it as sparingly as possible.

Motor vehicle Automotive exterior Bumper Gas Auto part


I experimented with applying this and found the small thin bead laid closest the interior was the best route.

Wood Bumper Automotive exterior Gas Machine


This too was riveted on but now I will use stainless hardware.

Motor vehicle Hood Automotive design Vehicle Bumper


After much hardware assembly.

Hood Automotive design Motor vehicle Bumper Automotive exterior


I know the gasket is piecemeal, however I chose this route for a couple of reasons. First finding a sheet of EPDM high density foam is difficult, expensive and time consuming to then cut to fit. It could take an additional 2 to 3 weeks depending on delivery, availability, labour of cutting and testing. The most important seal is the lower one as condensate from the evaporator has to run off the tray and not be allowed to leak back into the interior via down the firewall cabin side.

This is done aside from using a dremel to cut holes for the main screws in the weather stripping seals.

Motor vehicle Bumper Gas Office equipment Engineering


Motor vehicle Bumper Gas Engineering Automotive design


For something seemingly so simple it was still loads of work.

Now for those who might say why didn't I try that seal kit they are making for these rather than go this route... well......

Textile Wood Publication Book Automotive design


I did..... and guess what.... it's going back.... The main foam is the wrong density (to light) plus you have to glue this stuff on and it's not an easy 3M double sided tape. The density is also way off on the foam that butts up against the evaporator. In a nut shell this kit was close and from what I saw they did a nice job on modeling/cutting it, but still missed the mark. It is my personal opinion you will have water leaks with this kit and for 100 bucks and then having to pull this all apart again to seal it, it's not worth it at all!

That's it for this plenum. One more to go.

More to come.

Cheers
 

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Hello Davy Somers,

You are most kind for your comment. Did you get a new compressor or fix the old one?

Cheers
I'm trying to rule out electrical fault but after borrowing a second motor and seeing similar overheat conditions, I'm thinking it's the electrical supply or a damaged bearing in the pump. Too broke to afford a new compressor pump right now, so I'm likely just gonna try and replace the bearings myself. Otherwise my truck cab has the passenger's outer corner left and then the cab's steel work is done! I think that's the same work I sent you pictures of before, so I'll have to send some more over once I wrap that up.

Great work on rebuilding that plenum! I'm over here taking notes for whenever I end up needing to do that on my LTD. I had noticed a lot of foam coming apart when I replaced my heater core a while back. Thankfully it's blown most of the loose stuff through but my HVAC is definitely running on borrowed time. My AC got retrofitted and filled with the new stuff but I'm told the old pumps don't last long once switched over.

I'm likely gonna drive the pickup once I shoot the paint for the cab and front end. I'm probably gonna take a couple pages from your projects and go over the outer steel on my LTD after that. I lost my dog only a couple weeks ago and that put me high in vet bills. Else I was hoping to spend some time getting my LTD prepped and ready for a re-shoot of the paint. Been a tough start of the year but it's always great to come back here and see what you've been up to.

I'm often asked how on earth I know anything about these older cars since I'm so young. I just answer with, "I just lucky to learn from folks who know a lot more about it then me!"

So again, thankyou for all the time you take in your meticulous documentation. For all the valuable info you provide on these cars, this really should be compiled into a book at this point! :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #275 ·
I'm trying to rule out electrical fault but after borrowing a second motor and seeing similar overheat conditions, I'm thinking it's the electrical supply or a damaged bearing in the pump. Too broke to afford a new compressor pump right now, so I'm likely just gonna try and replace the bearings myself. Otherwise my truck cab has the passenger's outer corner left and then the cab's steel work is done! I think that's the same work I sent you pictures of before, so I'll have to send some more over once I wrap that up.

Great work on rebuilding that plenum! I'm over here taking notes for whenever I end up needing to do that on my LTD. I had noticed a lot of foam coming apart when I replaced my heater core a while back. Thankfully it's blown most of the loose stuff through but my HVAC is definitely running on borrowed time. My AC got retrofitted and filled with the new stuff but I'm told the old pumps don't last long once switched over.

I'm likely gonna drive the pickup once I shoot the paint for the cab and front end. I'm probably gonna take a couple pages from your projects and go over the outer steel on my LTD after that. I lost my dog only a couple weeks ago and that put me high in vet bills. Else I was hoping to spend some time getting my LTD prepped and ready for a re-shoot of the paint. Been a tough start of the year but it's always great to come back here and see what you've been up to.

I'm often asked how on earth I know anything about these older cars since I'm so young. I just answer with, "I just lucky to learn from folks who know a lot more about it then me!"

So again, thankyou for all the time you take in your meticulous documentation. For all the valuable info you provide on these cars, this really should be compiled into a book at this point! :)
Hello Davy Somers,

Thank you for the kind words. I am just getting back to these posts, sorry I am a bit late in responding. How's the progress coming along? As for gaining knowledge about anything in life it's about taping the minds of people already in that particular area of interests either by direct interaction or reading their endeavors in books or blogs. We all learn by reading, watching and doing. The trick is to always keep an open mind and know it's ok to say, yah know I just don't know, but I'd like to learn.

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter · #276 ·
The Evaporator / Blower Motor Plenum Part 1

I know I saved the worst for last and holy cow was I correct about that. This part was a pain in the butt, it was almost as bad as the resurrection of the Flame - O - Matic C6 from the same car. In fact the flame - o - matic did cook some of this plenum when the flames obviously shot out the dipstick tube, so that didn't help this plenum any.

Here's the tale:

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This is the original plenum from the original '66 gal 500 XL. You can see remnants of melted plastic HVAC cover and melted rubber on the blower. This plenum was flame broiled for your pleasure. Good grief this car was the worst in all areas sans corrosion.

Asphalt Wood Vehicle Road surface Automotive exterior


I have two others I can scrounge parts off of. The one on the left is a '65 but aside from a few minor differences all the parts are more or less interchangeable. I decided to stick with salvaging this crispy-fied plenum for a couple of reasons. All these plenums are from the southwest and all baked to a degree more or less. The plastic is dying on all of them so it really doesn't matter. Plus this is a worst case more or less resurrection. If I can do it, so can you. I hope to show if you have rare parts and can't get easy replacements not to give up. Just make a rationale plan and get into the thick of it.

And it's ok to complain once in awhile :unsure:

Motor vehicle Vehicle Automotive tire Automotive design Wood


The back side of the plenum doesn't look to bad.

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The front side is nasty though. There's just bits of creatures in there, dust, etc. It's quite disgusting.

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Motor vehicle Automotive tire Machine tool Gas Differential


The tear down process begins.

Motor vehicle Wood Automotive tire Automotive exterior Gas


Once the metal back brace came off the rest just started failing apart. The plastic is just dead. But lets start piece by piece.

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First the blower motor. Oh boy, for funzies I put 12 VDC to it and it spun. Now when I say spun I mean it would make a good turn table motor as it spun about the speed of an LP and did those leads get warm.

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Not warm enough like being engulfed in flames though by the transmission dipstick.

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It does appear this is the original blower motor.

continued in next post.
 

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Discussion Starter · #277 ·
The Evaporator / Blower Motor Plenum Part 2

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Since I cannot find anyone reproducing these factory HVAC motors (they do sell the heater only blower motor) I need to see if I can save this. My biggest concern is did the fire reduce the magnetic field in the permanent magnets and did it burn the varnish off the windings in the armature.

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Those bushings are dry like the desert. The front bushing was spinning in the front frame, das ist nicht sehr gut.

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I decided to take the other '66 blower motor out of the other plenum and take it apart. Whilst not flame cooked, entropy didn't do it any favours either. Plus the front bushing just fell out. Great.... <sigh>

There's two avenues one can go down at this point and they both aren't pleasant. First you can spend possibly hundreds on trying to find a blower motor that's close enough to work and alter the front mounting plate to accept. The other option is to work with what you have and fix that. Anyone that knows me pretty much can guess the route I'll take.

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Time to dig into these. I took apart the front plates and drilled out the bushing retaining plates in these. Gosh you can see where the flames were wrapping around the motor shell in the one by all the melted rubber. Too funny.

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This is why the front bushings were spinning or just fell out. The spring retainer plate broke on both. One broke in two. By some miracle I was able to TIG weld this thin spring metal back with the current dialed down to 20 amps.

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I'll just show one assembly as they both are the same. If there's something interesting I'll show the other one. The Oil-lite bushing goes in and is surrounded by the felt oiling pad, then the retaining spring then the cover.

Wheel Automotive tire Locking hubs Rim Tire


Wheel Tire Automotive tire Locking hubs Alloy wheel


Wheel Automotive tire Locking hubs Rim Bicycle part


Against my better judgement I tried to TIG the cover back on but it was just too much heat to fuse to the thicker front frame. With that I reached for the cheapo Harbor Freight 240VAC spot welder and resistance welded the rest in.

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Onto the armatures. You can see the one had its little butt cooked.

continued in next post.
 

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Discussion Starter · #278 ·
The Evaporator / Blower Motor Plenum Part 3

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The front of the cooked one isn't bad at all.
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I dressed the commutators of both.

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Fortunately both rear bushings were ok, just dry as an old bone.

Fluid Liquid Bottle Mason jar Gas


I walnut blasted the scorched armature and found some of the varnish coming off. I used insulated varnish for windings to try and save this. I could rewind it, but if the magnets have lost some of their field strength then this would be for naught. Sometimes you have to weigh your options.

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Both motors need new wires.

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I used 12 gauge GXL wire.

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The bushings are well lubed before hand.

Wood Cylinder Gas Nickel Auto part


Gas Auto part Machine Wire Composite material


Goes without saying. :)

Tire Wheel Automotive tire Tread Hubcap


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Discussion Starter · #279 ·
The Evaporator / Blower Motor Plenum Part 4

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Automotive tire Rim Fixture Wood Door


Again lubed that rear bushing before assembly.

Wood Gas Auto part Tool Machine


One down one to go.

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The seared armature smothered in varnish.

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The rest assembled like the other one.

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Here's the two ready for testing. They both spin just fine according to the calibrated hand test ;).

Fluid Gas Audio equipment Electrical wiring Font


I'm going to a current clamp to examine the commutator passing the brushes. This by the way is a really good test to check in tank electric fuel pumps for any problems.

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I've got this on a scope. You can use a cheap pocket scope (~$100) for this and do not need a lab scope.

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My exotic test fixture. First up is the rare motor (ie not well done).

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I have it dialed to 12.6 VDC and it's drawing 12.6 amps spinning in free air and holy cow does it move air. It blew all the dust off the bench instantly, well that's clean now. Actually it's a little unnerving having it spin that fast right in front of me tethered by book friction.

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Discussion Starter · #280 ·
The Evaporator / Blower Motor Plenum Part 5

Oscilloscope Technology Display device Machine Electronic device


Here you can see the brushes cutting across the contacts on the armature. The current isn't perfectly matched on all the windings but for a 56 year old automotive motor it's doing just fine. You can see the pattern repeat and there is about two full patterns on the screen. So this is showing nearly 2 full revolutions of the armature.

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Taking the motor to maximum it'll see in the car with the alternator running.

Oscilloscope Blue Gas Electronic instrument Technology


It sped up more and it's cruising. There is one outlier winding drawing around 30% more energy, but nothing to worry about. This motor is ok to put back into service and seems happy.

Now lets check Fillet Mignon.

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It's drawing 1.5 amps more than its cooler sibling. So either the armature has shorted turns and or the magnets are now weaker.

Oscilloscope Gas Electronic device Engineering Technology


Ewe. It's spinning just as fast as the better motor but that commutator current is messy. There's no clean current pulses. This suggests excessive arcing.

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Cranking it up. It's now drawing 2.2 amps more than the non cooked motor.

Oscilloscope Gas Measuring instrument Technology Display device


Just more the same messy signal. So what's the moral of the story here. The cooked motor has problems, but it does work. It would make a good temporary spare but probably would have a short life if put back into full time service. The important factor here is knowing what you have in a part.

Moving on...

Wood Machine Fashion accessory Metal Beige


This is the mode door switch atop the plenum. It's job to turn off power to the compressor clutch in any heat mode; floor or defrost. This switch is spring loaded so the plunger is always pushed out. This one, well not so much, so lets dig into this one.

Product Rectangle Font Wood Beige


The most common problem with these is foreign contamination and dried up lubrication. These switches aren't reproduced so it's either find NOS or fix your old one.

Font Auto part Composite material Nut Metal


All the parts cleaned and the shell painted. The one area of concern is the contacts. The swage tends to come loose and the best way to fix it is just solder the terminals to the copper swage pins. Even at a clutch current of 3-4 amps with a loose contact can cause the switch to burn and or the plug/wires.

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