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1,103 Posts
Discussion Starter · #301 ·
Boring bits and bobs- Part 3 Body

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The key lock sits directly atop the flat rear panel. I checked the inside and I can see no evidence there ever was a recess. Now this is odd because, well here's two more '66 deck lids.

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Here's the '66 LTD and the key is recessed.

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Here's the spare '66 gal 500 parts car and it's recessed. I'm half tempted to use this deck lid. I shall have to return to the mother ship to give this more thought.

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I stripped the roof and removed all the noticeable dents with the hammer, dolly and spoon.

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So I had a think about this and I'm going to try something somewhat unorthodox. I am going to use POR15 as primer sealer for the entire body shell and I'm brushing it on. There's method to this madness. In brushing it on I can really get it in the seams around the windows, sides, etc. It's better the paint creeps into the seams and prevents water/oxygen from getting in. I'll give the POR15 a light sanding before primer, colour and clear.

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Well I'm up to this point and honestly I've been putting this off because the suck factor is high with this. This poor body has been attacked by mother nature, most likely another car, and then bad body work. It's the trifecta of total loosing proposition.

There are no quality 1966 quarter panel reproductions out there which just makes matters worse. A long time ago I bought the Sherman's total pile of crap panels and let me illustrate.

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Here they are.

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Here's the panel compared to a quarter cut off one of the now defunct parts cars.

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The arch is not the same contour and the crappy Shermans just has a ridge protrusion around the wheel arch and not a flat spot to mount the trim.

Now I did rework one to fix the arch.

Continued in next post.

1,103 Posts
Discussion Starter · #302 ·
Boring bits and bobs- Part 4 Body

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I made the protrusion have a flat spot to mount the trim.

Wood Tints and shades Hood Fender Ingredient

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Here you can see other side and the sharp protrusion Sherman gives you. I mean if you tried to use that it would look terrible.

Wood Automotive tire Fender Gas Tints and shades

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I really do not want to use these and I think I'll just rework the other one and sell these off. I recently checked to see if these were still being sold and I almost fell off my chair for the price of basically crap. At least when reworked they are more useable.

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That leaves me with the ones I cut off a 4 door car. At first I wasn't sure they were going to be useable as is. With that the process of stripping them begins.

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Just use light heat to remove the old undercoat used as sound deadener in the rear area.

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Much to my surprise they were in better condition than I thought, so they will get used. It's rather rare to find of useable rear quarters with out corrosion damage around the wheel arch.

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Now these quarters are off a 4 door post but the key areas around the wheel arch are only what I need on this 2 door.

I'll have to finish stripping this on both side and sand blast it, then it's a fun party day removing asbestos seam sealer from the inside of the rear storage area of the car body in order to start marking and cutting.

More to come.


1,103 Posts
Discussion Starter · #303 ·
Quarter Panel Drudgery Part 1

I can procrastinate no longer, so here it goes.

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This is the mess I have to sort out. I started sanding the metal to see what's lurking other than the obvious.

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Someone had fun with a hammer. To bad there wasn't a dolly on the other side. :rolleyes:

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I had to strip all the coatings off the part of the quarter I was keeping. So it was lightly heating with a propane torch and then scraping and wire brushing. The fumes were something else even having a fan blow that toxic plume away from me.

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And if that didn't peg the fun-o-meter I started scraping off the asbestos seam sealer in the cargo area. You can see the rust that was trapped under the seam sealer. This is why it all has to come off, the rust treated/removed, painted, then seam sealed, them final painting over to control that corrosion.

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So far this is still easily dealt with, no bad sections yet, but it certainly wouldn't go away if kept covered up.

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Once I started seeing where the rust and good portions were on the quarter on the car I could trim the donor piece a little with the intention of clamping it in place and tracing the maximum outline on the car.

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Next was to locate a seemingly forever trail of resistance spot welds and using a spot weld drill remove them all. I did all the wheel arch welds and freed that portion of the panel.

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For the rear cargo area drop off panel I elected to put the entire jig with the body on the lift to a more comfortable working height.

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This wasn't too bad and pretty easy to find them all. I had a hole in one on every one.

Continued in next post

1,103 Posts
Discussion Starter · #304 ·
Quarter Panel Drudgery Part 2

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However I had a Ray Charles episode on the beginning run of the lower section, but then was able to find them on the first try after that.

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After all those were removed and the panel freed at the bottom using my maximum cut line I elected to cut the panel smaller than that avoiding potential traps in certain areas.

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And off it comes. Well, it looks just as bad underneath as it did on the top <sigh> at least its consistent.

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I dunno what even happened here. There's no residual damage in this area that would require a hearty pull. This may have been from the factory.

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I expected this.

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However words fail me on this one, it is so ugly, I did feel my soul die a little looking at though.

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The jury is still out on this section. I'll have to remove all the remaining seam sealer to get a better idea.

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On the bright side, if you can call it that, I have these good donor pieces to section in where needed.

Continued in next post.

1,103 Posts
Discussion Starter · #305 ·
Quarter Panel Drudgery Part 3

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One last look at this piece. It's clearly beyond reasonable redemption.

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Looks more like a piece dredged up from the bottom of a lake.

More to come.

1,103 Posts
Discussion Starter · #306 · (Edited)
Quarter Panel Drudgery Part 4

Right, time to start slicing and dicing. I was hoping the cargo area/trunk drop off was alright due to Ford galvanizing it, but alas no.

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There are some holes near the outer wheel house but the bottom is deeply pitted to the point of transparency. Since I have a good donor, this is the first piece to be sectioned and replaced.

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I drilled the spot weld holding this to the donor wheel house remnant.

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I took some measurements to make sure the splice was right where it should be once this is cut.

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The replacement was sandblasted but you can still see layers of the zinc flashing on it. You'll never get it all off and this limits the welding process to just MIG. The zinc will plate the electrode of a TIG and using oxy/acetylene will just produce plumes of toxic gas.

I clamped this replacement over the rusted piece and hand drew a cut line. Then I cut both of them at the same time being clamped together.

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Next the piece is clamped firmly into piece. You can buy these clamps at Hobo Freight at a reasonable price. There is no need to buy the high end versions. I double checked the distance with my earlier measurements. Tis spot on.

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The name of the game for thin sheet metal is tack weld, spread the heat out and tack weld often.

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Now even MIG makes the toxic smoke from burning the zinc. You can see the zinc from the white powder around the welds. I did not wire brush the left side for comparison. You do not want to inhale this.

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This is what you get when you weld zinc plated steel. Das ist nicht sehr gut, you do not want to breath this.

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I have a fan behind me pushing fresh air into me whilst welding. Just not strong enough to push the shielding gas out. Plus I have the car on the door way to the garage so it's mostly outside.

For those interested I am using 0.025" wire with 75% CO2 & 25% Argon shielding gas. I can't stress enough how important it is to have a decent welder. Do not use inner shield flux core wire, it's too much heat (requires reverse polarity compared to gas wire) and it splatters too much. You are making way too much work if you use it.

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The next bit is spacing out little areas of weld to spread out the heat and not to warp the panel. This is a tedious process. It's one stitch weld atop the next.

Continued in next post.

1,103 Posts
Discussion Starter · #307 ·
Quarter Panel Drudgery Part 5

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You slowly butt stitch weld in spaced sections allowing the panel time to cool, rinse and repeat until finished.

Now you can leave it like this and that's fine as no one will really see it. But for example you can clean this up carefully with 36 grit on a rotolock disc. I did this side to show what's possible.

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You can hardly tell it was cut and welded.

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Minimal warping and flush. You couldn't really ask for more. Don't get me wrong, the pictures might make it look easy, but this is tedious. This is around 4 hours of work. If you notice I left the alignment hole intact on the side that mates to the outer wheel house. This will come in handy when I replace the outer section of that.

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If this was a show car you could give the underside the same treatment and no one but you would know it's been replaced. :)

More to come.
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