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Discussion Starter #104
Body Mounts and Bumper Bracket Hardware

Hello All,

Just thought I'd continue with the body mounts and bumper hardware. What a time vampire this turned out to be.

Body Mount-Hardware01.jpg

I try to replace the generic hardware but the specific hardware gets sandblasted, blackened and clear coated, or sand blasted and powder coated and even the new hardware gets cleared for rust protection since it's just zinc plated with colourant. I did use some stainless bits and the beauty of 304 SS is it needs no additional work done to them for this type of application.

The other problem is whilst you can buy the body mounts for the '65-'68 the mounts are really generic and you have to modify them to work properly.

Body Mount-Hardware02.jpg

I'll break this down to certain mounts at a time. These are the 4 firewall mounts.

Body Mount-Hardware03.jpg

Here's the problem. The old mount is pictured in the upper left. You are not given enough of the proper rubber pucks to make that mount. You have to use 2 of the same rubber pucks (lower left) for each mount. The lower original mount (upper middle) has a little extra moulded piece in the middle. I had to add that. It keeps the mount and body from slipping on the stud and the stud hitting the side of the body itself and making noise. So I had to get creative with a boat load of extra rubber tubing and found #6 air con barrier hose would work well, but I still had to drill out the middle for 7/16" since #6 ID is 3/8". Then I rubber cemented that in place on the lower rubber puck (right hand side upper and lower example).

Body Mount-Hardware04.jpg


Here's the new lower modified mounts. Now the body can rest on top of that.

Body Mount-Hardware05.jpg

And here's the top half that sandwiches the body steel in place.

Body Mount-Hardware07.jpg

These are the front radiator support mounts. Now I did reuse the old rectangular blocks as I found a set from some '66 that were in stellar condition. The new kit does not come with the rectangle blocks AT ALL so if you need them you have to use one of the round extra pucks and slice the sides off making the round mount rectangular plus slice a little groove for the original metal washer ear to rest in and hold the rubber from slipping.

Body Mount-Hardware06.jpg


Now the original upper mounts (right hand side) had steel fender like washer in them and also have a moulded nipple section that keeps the metal tube liner from hitting the metal frame and making noises. The new kit does not come with this either. I had to take a standard tall extra puck (left hand side) they give you and grind it down to size then insert some rubber/silicone hose to fill the large centre opening and create the extruded nipple as the original one had (centre). I also used an AN fender washer of the appropriate outside dimension and bored the ID to work, then power coated it. (above the middle mount).

Body Mount-Hardware08.jpg


There's the radiator support mount installed.

Body Mount-Hardware09.jpg


Then the upper portion just to put them loosely on so I know where they are.

Body Mount-Hardware10.jpg

Here's another one to be modified. These mounts reside next to the rear torque boxes on the chassis.

Continued in next post.
 

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Discussion Starter #105
Body Mounts and Bumper Bracket Hardware Continued

Body Mount-Hardware11.jpg

The kit gives you 4 of the same mushroom locking pucks (right hand side) of which you need to take 2 of them and grind off most of the mushroom locking section (second from right) and match the original (lower left). This make a ginormous mess. Then you have drill the centre hole all the way through for the steel pad insert as it's moulded over on the puck.

Body Mount-Hardware12.jpg

They go here and the body just rests on these, there are no bolts or additional hardware.

Body Mount-Hardware13.jpg

These mounts go above the rear spring tower and for once you can use the rubber pucks from the kit directly without having to modify them.

Body Mount-Hardware14.jpg

They go here and I just used a little make-shift spring to keep the bolts up and not flopping around without the body installed.

Body Mount-Hardware15.jpg

These go on the rear frame rails, but you still need to centre drill the rubber pucks to get the steel inserts in.

Body Mount-Hardware17.jpg

They go here and again there is no addition hardware, the body simply rests on these.

Body Mount-Hardware16.jpg

These are the rear most frame mounts. You can also use these rubber pucks as is from the kit.

Body Mount-Hardware20.jpg

Like so.

Body Mount-Hardware18.jpg

This is the hardware for the rear bumper brackets to frame.

Body Mount-Hardware19.jpg

You can see where the loose nut and bolt go and where the clipped nut and bolt go.

Continued in next post.
 

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Discussion Starter #106
Bumper Bracket and Misc Hardware

Body Mount-Hardware21.jpg

These are the front apron frame retainers.

Body Mount-Hardware22.jpg

One gets mounted on this side.

Body Mount-Hardware23.jpg

And the other on this side.

Body Mount-Hardware24.jpg

These are the rearward front bumper bracket hardware.

Body Mount-Hardware25.jpg

These go here.

Body Mount-Hardware26.jpg

These are the middle mount hardware of the front bumper bracket.

Body Mount-Hardware27.jpg

These go here.

Body Mount-Hardware29.jpg

This is the front adjustable hardware for the front bumper bracket.

Body Mount-Hardware30.jpg

Get's installed this way.

Body Mount-Hardware31.jpg

And that's the tedious and really boring body and bumper hardware. ;)

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #107
Original Engine Block, Crank and Transmission

Now that the chassis is more less ready for exhaust and fuel lines, it's time to send out the original 390 block and crank to the machine shop.

Body Mount-Hardware33.jpg

The plan since it's still not quite warm enough to start on the sheet metal work as I need the doors open for welding and grinding, I will start on the exhaust system and fuel lines.

But first here's the original dilapidated engine.

Engine-trans_1.jpg

Engine-trans_2.jpg

Engine-trans_3.jpg

Engine-trans_4.jpg

I know the machinist will probably think, great you brought me another swamp find.

Engine-trans_5.jpg

The block and crank are now crated up and ready to be shipped to the machinist. In the meantime I brought out my bare 390 block from my '68 XL and will use that as a place holder and simply bolt the transmission to it and install a set of engine mounts and then lightly attach the new cylinder heads and headers and start on the exhaust, fuel lines and also finish the propshaft. Then when the original engine is done I can replace my old bare '68 block for the finished engine.

Engine-trans_7.jpg

The Flame-O-Matic C6 is yearning to go back to its home.

More to come.

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #108 (Edited)
Cylinder Heads
Since aftermarket parts can be a bit dodgy on quality I have been trained (read as having to redo a bunch of work because of poor parts) to check new parts best I can before installing. It's sad when you have play QC on every new and rebuilt part you pay hard earned money for, but alas tis the way things are.

To start I opened the Edlebrock heads and disassembled and oh look what I found. This is why when Edelbrock says "ready to run out of the box" they are indeed full of crap.

heads_01.jpg

This is the first head I opened, the seats are rusty from sitting in a humid environment.

heads_02.jpg

But here's where trouble really lurks. Their single point valve grind isn't concentric. You can see the single lip from the seat fade away as it goes around the valve. Now the previous set of heads I bought suffered the same thing. It was so bad, in fact, when doing the static compression check on the engine not only could you hear the air leaking past the intake valve/seat on some you could actually feel the air flow through the intake.

Now last set of heads I just ponied up for a valve job on already expensive set of brand new heads but this time I opted for just a good ol valve lapping. I know some frown on the idea of valve lapping in modern times, but it's turning out to be 6 of one and half dozen of the other as far as options. If I have to sacrifice a tiny amount of flow around the intake valve in lieu of a lengthy and expensive wait to get these heads back, so be it.

heads_03.jpg


Lapped.

heads_04.jpg


Difference between sealing and non sealing.

heads_05.jpg


It also cleans the rust out of the seats, because you know; quality.

heads_06.jpg

All completed now the valves can seal and I can check the volume of the heads.

heads_07.jpg

But first I drilled and tapped the oil feed for the rockers and inserted a plug since it will be oiled through the push rods.
heads_08.jpg

Installed with a little Locktite.

heads_09.jpg

Pardon the mess but it's the set up for measuring the volume.

heads_10.jpg

Used Vaseline to act as a mild sealant for the plastic cover.

Continued in next post.
 

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Discussion Starter #109
Cylinder Heads Continued

heads_11.jpg


For those wondering, the fluid is just 91% Isopropyl alcohol and green food colourant.

heads_12.jpg

Here's the results, well at least (credit where credit is due) Edelbrock fixed their combustion chamber volume as the last set was out of range of Edelbrocks specification. These are actually in spec. One is a little sloppy and high but still in range.

heads_13.jpg


Agh head number 2 I opened up and disassembled. This little gem was full and I do mean full of metal shavings right from the get go. Way to go Edelbrock QC.....:(

Unfortunately it did suffer from the intake valve thing and rusty seats as the previous head so it received the same treatment and also had the oil port plugged to the rockers.

heads_14.jpg

This head however was much more consistent on volume though.:)

With that the heads were reassembled and done with for the moment.

More to come.

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Discussion Starter #110
Propshaft and Exhaust
Since I plan on the original engine to be at the machine shop for about 2 months I need to install the propshaft and create the exhaust system. With that I had to get my bare 390 block out, lightly bolt on the cylinder heads and headers and attach the transmission and set them into place with new mounts.

Propshaft-Exhaust_1.jpg

I finally was able to use my new ceiling winch with a wireless remote system I put together for it. It actually lifted the bare block with complete and full of oil C6 up and into place on the chassis. It saved me from loads of extra work assembling the engine hoist and then putting it back away. Sometimes it's just the little things :rolleyes:.

Sometimes it's just nice to have some extra tools you contrive to make life easier. I also have a floor winch to pull in a dead vehicle to the centre bay from outside if need be.

For those curious, I just used Harbor Freight winches and some aftermarket remote controls and put them all into a generic electrical cabinet.

winch51.jpg

There's the ceiling winch.

winch_4.jpg

Control panel I put together. The remotes are just Velcro'd on the front panel for easy removal and storage plus you can still use the buttons on the front panel if you want.

winch_1.jpg

I bought the remote control transmitters and receivers the rest was bits and bobs I had laying around in the lab and threw it together.

winch_2.jpg

It's a little tight, but serviceable and still somewhat neatish.

winch_3.jpg

There's the aforementioned handy floor winch.

Sorry for the tangent, back to the galaxie.

Propshaft-Exhaust_2.jpg

Temporary engine like thing installed.

Propshaft-Exhaust_3.jpg

I will say this, those headers were 1150 dollars but you do get 1150 dollars worth of headers :). Probably one of the last vestiges of true American craftsmanship and quality. Thank you FPA for providing these for sale it's a pleasure installing them.

Propshaft-Exhaust_4.jpg

With that I ordered everything I need to make this exhaust and also ordered some Moog Cardan joints for the propshaft. This portion is done till those parts arrive.

More to come...

Cheers
 

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Isn't there a better source for heads? Or a local machine shop that has less production and more precision?

>>>>Action
 

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better off to buy bare heads and get them done by a good shop or yourself.
i bought some brodex 11x heads that were supposedly ready to run. not,
$2500 and i had to redo the valves. getting the stem heights all the same first, then grinding combustion chambers to get cc s the same. only small changes were needed. most people overlook the stem height, a little valve seat grinding goes a long way
 

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Discussion Starter #113
Isn't there a better source for heads? Or a local machine shop that has less production and more precision?

>>>>Action
Hello Action,

That's a good question, there are better sources for cylinder heads, but the price really escalates. To rebuild/build up this engine is already going to be around 11 thousand dollars which is more than the car will probably ever be worth. I am trying to keep it from really getting out of control. If I have to use the cheaper Edelbrock heads and they need a little work so be it. In fact I wouldn't be so annoyed if Edelbrock instead printed on the their boxes "May need a little work before installation". At least it's honest and factual.

As for local machine shops. Where I live I am extremely limited on machine shop resources. Heck I can't even find an exhaust shop that can mandrel bend 2.5" pipe with a 4" radius within 100 mile radius, maybe more as I just gave up at that point and will have to lobster tail this exhaust system to fit in the tight spaces as in the '66 LTD.

In fact machine shops seem to be closing. I am lucky in that the one I use has been around a good long time and an old otherwise forgotten FE is no stranger to them. Sometimes you have to take what you can get.

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What about those universal mandrel bent exhaust kits? They would certainly reduce the amount of welding, instead of piecing together the bends from straight tubing.
 

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Discussion Starter #115
What about those universal mandrel bent exhaust kits? They would certainly reduce the amount of welding, instead of piecing together the bends from straight tubing.
That is a good question 70XL,

I do a fair about of mitigating when it comes to what parts to buy to build up a car very literally from the first nut and bolt. I do buy the tail pipe kit but still have to alter that a little bit. That does save a little time. The main reason for lobster tailing is that X pipe right in the middle. It's such a tight fit I would need a couple of the kits with all the bends in them. That can get really pricey. Also most of those kits are thin wall exhaust and if I'm going to spend time making that centre X pipe fit perfectly between the transmission/proshaft and parking brake cable assembly I want thick wall tubing so that I will never have to replace it from rust. The tubing I used on the LTD was 0.070" and the tubing I bought for this XL is 0.075" both are aluminized steel. It's a very heavy exhaust, but I do not want to do this portion again... ever :rolleyes:

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When I had my car converted to dual exhaust I had the muffler shop use aluminized pipe, which is just standard exhaust tubing wall thickness, and that was in about 1985. The pipes are still solid and complete. It was a year round driver until about 2000, so many winters of slush, snow and de-icers did not kill that tubing. The welds will be the problem, not the tubing, so the fewer welds the better. I'm sure you could build your X pipe, and everything else with a single kit, but I see they sell individual pieces, a-la-catre, if you need more. How long is is long enough?:rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter #117
When I had my car converted to dual exhaust I had the muffler shop use aluminized pipe, which is just standard exhaust tubing wall thickness, and that was in about 1985. The pipes are still solid and complete. It was a year round driver until about 2000, so many winters of slush, snow and de-icers did not kill that tubing. The welds will be the problem, not the tubing, so the fewer welds the better. I'm sure you could build your X pipe, and everything else with a single kit, but I see they sell individual pieces, a-la-catre, if you need more. How long is is long enough?:rolleyes:
Hello 70XL,

You do bring up really good points, but I already bought the straight pipes to slice up as I had already ordered all this last week. The exterior of the exhaust system will be ceramic coated when finished and that should protect the exterior welds, the heat of the exhaust should keep moisture from accumulating on the inside.

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Discussion Starter #118 (Edited)
Propshaft and Cardan Joints

The proliferation of substandard parts is really a problem. I've noticed that some nefarious people like to buy the good parts from Rock Auto then return cheap parts for full credit. I fell victim to this as seen below.

Propshaft_1.jpg

I bought some Moog joints and I did get the one on the right in a Moog box. It's imperative to check over every single part now-a-days.

Propshaft_2.jpg


You can see the difference in some poorly made Cardan joint on the right and a genuine Moog. The letters MG will be embossed on the body.

Propshaft_3.jpg

That's a brand new yoke on the left and a used '68 yoke on the right. The original yoke was so ground up from the Fire-O-Matic C6 it was destroyed. I wanted to use the '68 as it had the harmonic damper on it, but it had a noticeable groove from seal wear. I opted to go with the new yoke instead.

Propshaft_4.jpg

The original propshaft, cleaned up nicely and painted it. One nice thing about Southwest cars, very little rust.

Propshaft_5.jpg

All assembled. All joints move smoothly.

Propshaft_6.jpg

I will say that Ford didn't skimp on the propshaft, it's a decent diameter and pretty heavy. Keep in mind when searching for a replacement, that the propshaft varies in length and also has different sized Cardan joints/ears depending on what size engine was in the car.

Plus I have park now. Sometimes you just have to celebrate the little victories. :)

More to come
 

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Discussion Starter #119
Exhaust - Parts

In this I thought I'd cover the parts to be used, then I'll start on the construction of it all.

Exhaust_1.jpg

Starting from the left are the weld in stainless bungs for the evac system since this car isn't getting a PCV valve. Then 4 heavy duty clamps. These clamps are only to secure the pipes to the hangers and not actually crush pipes together. Next are the main exhaust hangers, they are GM style and in my opinion are easier to work with than the Ford ones. On the right of that are the O2 bungs and all the way to the right are the flanges for the system as I do not like using slip joints and crushing with a clamp.

Exhaust_2.jpg

The 2 mufflers and 2 resonators. The muffler is the quietest in the quietflow series from Walker and is still pretty noisy. I struggled with this aspect as I want the cars quiet but didn't want to sacrifice too much flow in doing it.

Exhaust_3.jpg

Exhaust_4.jpg

Exhaust_5.jpg

For the tail pipes I used this kit to save some time, it still doesn't fit perfect and needs some slicing, dicing and welding to fit properly.

Exhaust_6.jpg

Exhaust_7.jpg

These are the pipes to be used for the rest of the exhaust 0.075" aluminized heavy gauge pipe.

Exhaust_8.jpg

I am going to copy the exhaust I did on the '66 LTD, since this galaxie 500 XL is more or less a carbon copy. I wasn't thrilled on the noise level, but the engine has plenty of pep and low end torque.

In another thread I had these comparisons but I'll post them here again.

http://galaxieworks.com/sites/forum_videos/1966_LTD_exhaust_run.m4v

This is a really good comparison of the exhaust I plan to build and glass packs on other wise stock dual exhaust on a Z code 390 on the parts car '68 LTD.

http://galaxieworks.com/sites/forum_videos/1968_LTD_exhaust_run.m4v

Both short videos are from the same camera and no sound alterations. Turn up the bass for the best contrast between the two.

More to come.
 

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Ford also used a lot of varieties of shafts and joints. The variables are engine, transmission and sometimes rear axle.

I understand the different lengths of drive shafts based on transmissions. But I fail to understand why there was such a plethora of joints. I would think get the biggest joint needed for biggest amount of torque expected and giver every combo the same joint. Use the same ears on the shaft and be done with it.

Then build 10 million of them and you are good.

>>>>>Action
 
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