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642 Posts
Discussion Starter #121
Ford also used a lot of varieties of shafts and joints. The variables are engine, transmission and sometimes rear axle.

I understand the different lengths of drive shafts based on transmissions. But I fail to understand why there was such a plethora of joints. I would think get the biggest joint needed for biggest amount of torque expected and giver every combo the same joint. Use the same ears on the shaft and be done with it.

Then build 10 million of them and you are good.

Hello Action,

I don't get it either, and I can only speak for the 3rd gen full size Ford, but I had 3 propshafts from 352 and smaller engine cars and they use the smaller Cardan joints. I just tossed them as I only wanted the heavy duty parts of the 390 and larger engines came with.

Lots of things I notice on the 3rd gens don't make much sense, but Ford was probably too large to notice savings in different areas by consolidating part types.


497 Posts
I'm sure they noticed the savings, which is why they had so many choices. If they can save a nickel here and a penny there by using a smaller u-joint, yoke and driveshaft, then they'd do it. When they buy that many, even the smallest cost savings can add up. They sure weren't thinking about any of us having to, or wanting to fix and service these things. :mad::confused:

642 Posts
Discussion Starter #123
With all the who-ha going on I finally was able to make a little progress. It's lobster time!


First was to cut a boat load of the same slice. Each slice is so angled and measured in length that 5 pieces assembled yield a 90˚ elbow on a 4" radius.


Creating the X pipe.




Fitting the front half of the system together. Tis a bit tedious. The '65-'66 with its centre hung parking brake cables was never meant to sport an X pipe. The space between the cables and the tail shaft is very small and precision is everything. Interestingly enough the '66 full size with the 352 did have a factory cross over pipe and dual exhaust, but it was a skinny pipe.


There's about 20 sticks of 1/16" TIG rod in this front portion. With 0.070/5" wall it's one stout and heavy piece.


It's not very elegant but it is very functional.

It will be ceramic coated when finished and running to reduce heating of nearby components.

In order to complete the rest of the exhaust I need the body temporarily bolted back on with a fuel tank.

However as a side note, the following pictures were meant as a joke since I was TIG welding my little heart out anyway.



A poor mans weight set. These are left over parts from the axle and fitting the rear disc brakes I was going to toss but made this as a joke more or less.

However there is a more interesting fact in cutting the splines off the shafts to join them into an automotive barbell. These are the 28 spline axle shafts from the heavy duty (large bearing) Ford 9" and my band saw sliced right through them like cheap steel. It was a little alarming at just how soft these old axles are/were.

I made some spare tyre mounts for the trailers and I used the old axle shafts from our 2004 Grand Marquis when it chowdered its rear axles in the 8.8. The band saw wouldn't cut through them, I had to use the chop saw with the metal cut off wheel to get through them and it took forever to do even that.

I'm glad I upgraded the axle shafts in this car, although I didn't in the '66 LTD and now I fear that might be on the list of things to do when it's road worthy.

Continued in the next post.

Super Moderator
13,494 Posts
I thought those were mini railroad car trucks


642 Posts
Discussion Starter #125
Next was to temporarily join the body back to the chassis.


Unbolt the body from the jig.



It's just something you don't see everyday.


Align the chassis mounts with the body holes.



Now I can continue with fitting the exhaust.


It is catching up to the LTD. I'm probably the only idiot simultaneously tackling two body off frame refurbishments and modifications to mostly similar cars at home. It's been one heck of a learning curve, that's for sure.

More to come.


642 Posts
Discussion Starter #126

I got a little carried away and forgot about these parts.


These are the two rear tail pipe hangers. That's the old material up top. I blasted and powder coated the rest of the bits.


At least I didn't have to make these from scratch as I did on the LTD.



For the main exhaust hangers (at mufflers) I found the older GM hangers a much nicer solution. I was able to buy the female portion I just had to make the male portion to work and use the same holes in the frame as the factory ones.

I took 3/16" steel and arched it in the middle using some sketchy setup in the press and engaged safety squints and partly hid off to the side in case parts went flying under the intense pressure. Then I just used the torch and made the curve.


Welded the mounting tabs on and powder coated. These are a direct copy off the LTD since this whole exhaust is a carbon copy.


Ready for mufflers.

Now I can say, more to come.....


642 Posts
Discussion Starter #129
I'm really behind on posting on this one. It's been fraught with battles and up hill climbs but it's getting there.

Since the onset of the China virus I've been bouncing around on different aspects of this projects as well as other projects. The ordering and receiving of parts has been substantially delayed. So this is bits and pieces intermixed in chronological order not project order. Please bear with the jumping around. On the other hand if you have ADHD, then you'll love it :).

From where I left off I had to fit the body temporarily on the body back on the chassis to fit the rest of the exhaust. The generic body mount kit that magically fits all 3rd gens (but really doesn't) had to be modified.


These are the front upper isolators, they needed to be chamfered in order to fit the inner pocket in the front body structure.


Now they can seat properly in here. So the body was bolted back on for now.


Time to weld on the flanges for the mufflers. As you know I despise the friction fitting of tube over tube then clamped. I like the elegant means of simply bolting and unbolting the exhaust with little effort as possible.


I used a piece of scrap pipe as a jig to centre the flanges for welding.


Done. These are Walkers stainless steel flow series. These are the quietest of the mufflers in the hi-flow category. (and they're still pretty darn loud with full exhaust and resonators)


Finished the main part of the exhaust.


Tis a bit of work. Again this whole exhaust engine and transmission are a carbon copy of the '66 LTD I'm working on in tandem.


Took a few adjustments but it's presentable.


Now this is the rear tailpipe kit I bought for the '66 LTD. I didn't realize it at this point or when I thought I was finished but they didn't bend this the same as when I bought this much earlier for the '66 LTD. I didn't catch it till I thought I was done and working on fuel lines. So we'll be coming back to this later. But I soldiered on with the rest of the tailpipes. (As a side note these are GM A body early 70's pipe set). Can you spot the problem at this point?


With some adjustments they are seemingly fitting ok.

continued in next post.

642 Posts
Discussion Starter #130 (Edited)
Continued .....


The resonators are a bit bulky, but I really wanted a very quiet exhaust on both of these cars, of which I failed as they are still loud, but every little bit helps.


In order to get the pipe height correct with respect to the bumper, a bumper was temporarily mounted for reference. Now I'm bringing out the tail pipes past the bumper. Originally Ford terminated the tail pipes behind the bumper.


Like so. This is the stock pipes on a '68 same was true on the '66's and probably on all 3rd gens I would wager.


There's enough wiggle room to allow for pot holes and the exhaust weight shifting the pipes without whacking the frame or bumper.


Welded up. Now I didn't use these pipe tips as one was bent and not polished (cheap O'Reilly's parts) so I bought stainless (304 aka 18-8) tips for it.


So I thought I was done with the exhaust at this point. Nope, we'll come back to it in a bit. But for now it's fuel line time. So I'm using 3/8" stainless (again 304) for the supply and return lines.


Now Ford originally ran 5/16" poly line along the inner rocker tunnel clipped on. Poly line scares me, well especially this old crap; you can bend it and it just snaps in two. With todays alcohol content and it's ability to absorb moisture regular steel lines or even ni-copp lines didn't bode well with me. Stainless is expensive and an absolute cow to work with, but in the end very worth it. I am running it atop the frame rail since there's no reason to change this ever again. I'm using stainless hardware and clamps to secure it, plus it's out of the way of the body and makes the final body installation much easier.

The new 390 (old one built up) will be very thirsty when the fun pedal is fully depressed so in order to prevent fuel pressure loss 3/8" line was chosen. The return line was used because a return style fuel rail regulator will be used to maintain the injector pressure.


The slow process of forming the stainless lines.


Now there is an offset needed atop the frame rail in order to install the seat belt rocker bolt without hitting the lines. So the body is lifted perfectly above the chassis where it normally resides and a plumb is used to locate where the bolt would land.


Now I can offset the lines here and avoid future problems.

continued in next post.

642 Posts
Discussion Starter #131


There's the offset.


This is also very time consuming. The amount of hours is simply staggering to do a good job.


I made a bracket to hold the fuel lines where they will connect to the tank. I am using 6-AN stainless hardware.

Now I did have to remake one line as I screwed up the flare. Mistakes happen, they are maddening, but they happen.



I had to make a couple pieces here out of stainless for the front of the lines on the firewall.


If you're not "in the zone" and no not AutoZone, haha, when hand fabricating, you just have to quit and come back to it otherwise it makes a for a long painful night.


This is how I am mounting the lines to the front of the car, err firewall. They are out of the way of the wheel apron and will clear the eventual slew of Deutsch bulkhead connectors on the firewall.


They are presentable. These will also be flared for 6-AN.

Next up engine parts....

642 Posts
Discussion Starter #132 (Edited)
Engine Parts, Engine Block Debacle and Tail Pipe Corrections.

This where the really maddening portion of the show starts. Since this 390 is a carbon copy of the one I built for the '66 LTD with the exception this one is getting fuel injected right off the bat and the '66 LTD will be converted to fuel injection as well. The reason why is we have a problem with carburetors specifically with fuel quality, elevation and hot days with the air con running where we live. As a result a carburetor is just a load of driveability problems come the heat of summer. Fuel will actually boil in the carburetor with the car running as evidenced with a Quick Fuel 750 on my Caprice Classic with the air con running and there's nothing you can do about it.

With this engine being a clone I needed to order another round of custom pistons from Diamond Pistons. But instead of the two week turn around normally it was closer to 9 weeks due to the goofy governor of Michigan. Now in the interim, the engine block was at the machinist. The pistons and camshaft came in and now he could finish the balancing of the crankshaft and fine machining of the block.

Here's some engine jewelry.


These are forged pistons with moly coated skirts, modern ring packs (1.5, 1.5, 3.0mm) and offset pins and a dome volume to yield 10.5:1 static compression with the heads and head gaskets I've chosen. The rings are moly coated with a gapless top ring. Also are new connecting rods.

Connecting rods have a life. There's only so many compression and tension cycles before fatigue sets in. The more power the engine delivers and the shorter the life. So with an unknown engine such as the turd with 2 gallons of water in the oil pan this was, god only knows. They went in the scrap pile and new stronger ones were bought.

Now you can get away realistically with reconditioning old rods if you're doing a bog standard rebuild as these engines weren't that powerful to begin with. But this engine will be no slouch when commanded so we're not taking any chances.



The kit also comes with pins and retainers.


The roller cam and new Clevite 77 bearings. Crane was also out of steel cores and this took a while to arrive as well.

So last week the engine was "completed" so I paid for it and toted it home only to find sloppy work. First it had been splashed with water or something else that was acidic because it had rust on parts of it.

Now I'm willing to overlook some sins as we all make mistakes, but when I pay for something I do expect the work to be done to a reasonable level and rust is not a reasonable level. The cooling jackets were still dirty and the cam bearings weren't all the way into the block with some overhang present. I was willing to fix all this at home till I saw the deal breaker. There was rust on one cylinder near the top. The rust was so bad it pitted the fresh bore at least 0.010".

That tore it.

I was a bit pissed to say the least. I paid nearly 1100 bucks just in machining and balancing and this. So it went back to him and he's going to have to sleeve the block which I'm not fond of bit there is no other recourse, he's acid flushing the cooling jackets and doing a better job to centre the cam bearings.

I'm sorry but there is no excuse for this run of the mill machine work lack of quality. The engine is supposed to be ready this week sometime. <sigh>

Now onto the exhaust. Again.


In case you hadn't noticed the loops over the axle aren't tall enough. Now weirdly enough I bought this same kit for the '66 LTD (same chassis) and the loops are plenty tall. In reviewing the pictures of the exhaust and comparing to the LTD pipes I bought a while back these aren't bent tall enough. So in other words more crappy quality I paid for.

Just super duper...... actually I said other things but I think you get the idea.

I will say this, never again will I buy prebent crap. I should have lobster tailed the complete exhaust system. Not only would it be substantially cheaper but it would be faster and made of much thicker steel. So for those who say I should have bought prebent pieces boy do I have the cannon loaded for yah. o_O

Because I had set these pipes in reference to the body and bumper I didn't want to put all that back together as it's loads of work. So I had to fixture the pipes to the frame securely whilst I cut the loops apart to lengthen.



The tailpipes were indeed rigid to the frame at this point and surgery could commence.


There is no good way to fix this and for now this will do. This bothers me and afterwards when the car is done I will probably remake the tailpipes from scratch because this doesn't look all that great.

Speaking of not great, that was my mood in redoing this. But it's done.

Next up a better way to bolt things to the frame.

642 Posts
Discussion Starter #133
A Better Way to Bolt Items to a Frame


Originally I threaded the frame for fine thread bolts to secure items like this front brake hose bracket to the frame. I wasn't terribly fond of this and so I found a better way. Now when Ford bolted items to the frame, they punched a smaller hole then extruded it through the other side providing more surface area for the threads to take hold.


Enter stainless steel Riv-Nuts and installation kit.


First here's the holes I originally drilled, granted I used fine thread AN hardware the frame isn't that thick. As you can see I am paranoid coming from the Midwest where the tin-worm is hard at work, so corrosion control is priority #1 next to strength.


Riv-nuts installed.


All new stainless hardware as well. Looks better and much more secure.


Did the other front hose.


And the rear fuel line bracket. Much better.

At this point I am done with the chassis till the engine is back together so it went in the other bay and I can start on the body.



All it needs is the engine. The bare engine block here is my 390 block from my '68XL used as a place holder to mount the heads to in order to mount the headers and do the exhaust system.

Next is scraping undercoat.

642 Posts
Discussion Starter #134
Scraping and Wire Brushing the Undercoat

This is a truly seven layer suck cake if I ever had one. I removed the undercoating from the '66 LTD and it came off really easy with a propane torch. I don't think I spent 2 partial days on it and it was done. However the '66 LTD was taken care of and obviously garaged in Wichita Kansas.

This fine specimen along with another '66 gal 500 2 dr hardtop were extracted from the Zuni Indian Reservation. When I say extracted more like unearthed where they sat in a field in the hot dry desert sun since before I was born.

The heat of the countless years/decades cooked that undercoating as well as the paint on to a whole new level I didn't think was possible. I've kept track of the contiguous hours of just scraping and wire brushing with a small propane torch and it's now 28 solid hours of this and I still have a way to go.

Here's some before pictures:

It doesn't look bad, but there's rust forming under this factory undercoating.




I like how Ford loaded the undercoat on the area that would ultimately be coated with engine and tranny oil from 60's sealing technology (really lack of it) and left the more important areas devoid of the coating. <rolling eyes>


Now the fun starts. Well when I say fun I mean a truly grueling job.



As of the yesterday this is where I left off. I spent 2-1/4 hours and only cleared 2/3's of one wheel well. I went through 4 pounds of propane already. But you can see the revealing rust uncovered. This old undercoating has to be removed in order to treat this rust properly and stop it from getting any worse. I figure another 10 solid hours to finish this.

And people wonder why it costs ludicrous amounts of money to redo an old car. :oops:

What makes this bad is that it's hard enough to be a ***** to get off, but soft enough where you couldn't sand blast it. When I blasted the exterior of the car, I tried some spots and the sand just embedded into the undercoat and that's all that happened, it didn't actually remove any of it.

The only other way is to acid dip the entire body, but either way you look at it, it's expensive to ship and dip or just pay the man hours to manually strip.

What makes this so bad is the seam sealer has asbestos in it, in fact it's just rubber and asbestos, so in removing this you have to get kitted up pretty well in a suit, full respirator and of course eye protection. I usually reserve this till later in the day when I can work with the doors open and not roast to death even with a fan running against me.

Next up a few misc bits of transmission and engine.

642 Posts
Discussion Starter #135
Misc Transmission and Engine Bits

This is the latest round on the engine and tranny. I needed the straight pipe thread to 6 AN adapter for the cooler lines on the transmission. I don't have time to sit down and make sure the part is exactly what it says it is. In other words I can't double check every facet of a sellers part or their description. There simply isn't enough time in the day to do that to every single part. With that I occasionally have to trust a seller. I usually get screwed but tis the way it has to be when you're a one man band.

These cooler line adapters were no exception.

I ordered the first round of fittings.


Ummm no. The original double flare on the left and the adapter on the right. Wrong size pipe thread. The description says fits C6's..... Here we go again...


Bought another set that said fit C6 and this time I did check the description and the thread count and lack of taper was correct. Super.....

But it didn't fit. It wouldn't thread into the case and the O-ring they provided was waaaaaaaay to thick.

Oh good grief.


The thread pitch matches the one off the transmission soooooooooooooooooo......




You turd. <shaking head>


I find this, modifying brand new parts, the new normal sadly. Just ran it through a pipe die.


Now it threads right in and the O-ring seats properly now in the case grove. Something that should take 5 minutes took over 30 minutes. I really do pity the next generation of car buffs in dealing with this seemingly perpetual lack of concern/quality/caring/pride in others work and brand new parts. It was never this bad 20 years ago. You really do need a full compliment of tooling and experience to handle these situations otherwise you'll never get anywhere.


In this long duration of waiting on engine parts (pistons and cam) I was also waiting on Holman Moody for the FE super cobra jet oil filter adapter that has the oil cooler fittings replete with integrated viscosity by-pass valve. These are Blue Thunder reproductions. I also needed the bronze cam plate for the steel core camshaft as you can't run a steel core camshaft against the original steel retainer FE plate. They had the plate but I waited months for the oil filter adapter.

I was told they are made by an older gentleman and the feeling I got was they may not be available in the future. They are pricey, but when Holman Moody finally got a shipment in I said how many do you have. They said after months they only received two.

So guess what...


Now they have none.

I figured I needed one more for the '68 XL's 390. But if by chance I never get around to it I can always sell a brand new NOS one. And if they discontinue it the price of an NOS one in a box will skyrocket and then it will probably pay for everything I ever bought from Holman Moody knowing how old car parts follow closely the laws of supply and demand.

More to come.


Super Moderator
13,494 Posts
I was wondering if the exhaust would clear the Panhard rod. Seems a little tight back there.


642 Posts
Discussion Starter #137
I was wondering if the exhaust would clear the Panhard rod. Seems a little tight back there.

Howdy Action,

Yuppers the left side rear tail pipe is centre'd between the axle/brake line tubing and the panhard rod. It also clears the fuel tank on the ends by about 2 inches. I did have the fuel tank reinstalled as well on the body when fitting all this. Just takes loads of time to get everything positioned properly.


Super Moderator
13,494 Posts
"Loads of time" is the understand for this whole thing. You should name your 66, "LOT" and LOT too.
For Loads Of Time.


642 Posts
Discussion Starter #139

I took a bit of a sidestep and finished the clock. Sometimes you need a break and focus on some other more interesting part of the car. Clocks now-a-days seem so trivial as they are either a digital part of the radio or sat nav. But 50 years ago they were a mechanical precision instrument.

This one was dead however as most old mechanical automotive clocks ended up.


This is the clock cover and you can see, it had many many years of service as the points inside the clock arced themselves to near oblivion. Actually all this crud was all over the gear train and ironically saved the clock from further damage. Let me explain.


This is the gear train after I washed and lightly brushed it with lacquer thinner. The flywheel would not oscillate as it was covered in burnt bits of points. The winder, mainspring and mainspring drive gear are removed here.


You can see the points are just about worn away, that's a lot of arcing over the years. What usually happens to these old clocks is at some point in the cars long life the battery is allowed to slowly drain, either from accidentally leaving the lights on or just plain neglect. The winder is a high current intermittent device and relies on at least 9 volts to effectively whack one set of the points on a one way clutch and wind the main spring up ever so slightly. If the battery voltage falls off the winder can't slap the points hard enough and it stays engaged and the windings will burn.

The grunge on the gear train allowed one last winding and there it stayed with the winder disengaged and most likely saved it.

There were a couple of problems with this clock aside from all that. First the centre screw on the winder board must have vibrated out over the years and when I tried to separate the cover from the clock the tension snapped the board near the outside screws. I had to use a strong industrial adhesive to affix that back together. The other problem was the points are just about obliterated.


So what I've done is use a solder with a high percentage of silver in it to build the points back up and file smooth as best I could.


One of the modifications I made was to include a freewheeling or flyback diode across the coil and this greatly reduced arcing. This is a 5 amp fast recovery Schottky diode. This should greatly extend the life of the points.


After I oiled and blew off the residual heavy oil with canned air the clock works great. Interesting tidbit about these clocks is the semi-auto adjust feature. Say the clock is too fast, every time you adjust the clock backwards to correct another gear set is activated on the initial movement that takes a bit of tension off the hair spring to slow the flywheel down, thereby slowing down the clock. It works in the opposite fashion as well. There is a slot on the side of the clock for a manual speed adjustment if you wish to time against a stopwatch, of which I did. I let it run for a week on the bench and it was on the money.


I also experimented with different light bulbs. The clock lamp is an 1816, however it's a pretty high wattage bright little bulb that generates a great deal of heat. I also noticed that the light reflects inside the rear cover and so a bright inside surface is required. Also the 1816 is a long nose bulb with its filament close to the back of the winder board. This doesn't do much good for the illumination to the front.

I experimented with a variety of different light bulbs I had on hand and discovered the 1895 (same as the dash turn signal indicators) illuminate just as bright and are lower wattage wise so lower heat. The bulb is a bit shorter and puts the filament a bit closer to the back of the clock and sheds effectively a similar amount of light forward as the long nose bulb with the benefit of less heat.

It is after all a precision instrument and not a miniature Easy Bake Oven. :unsure:


I experimented with a variety of bulbs. These are both completed clocks for both '66 cars.


Tis the difference between the bulbs.


A note on what I used for this endeavor. You need a high wattage soldering gun to solder to the big brass lug, otherwise you risk cooking everything, including the diode, trying to get the solder to melt. You want to heat up quickly as possible, melt the solder then cool. To keep the diode cool I inverted the duster can and let the liquid refrigerant boil on the leads to take the heat and cool off the large peg.

The oil I used was Tri-Flow with TPFE, once I oiled it I blew off the excess from the gear train with the canned duster. The lab squeeze bottle has lacquer thinner in it for cleaning the gear train. I used the regular low wattage soldering iron to build up the points and solder the diode to the small metal post.

Next up more trials and tribulations with the engine.


642 Posts
Discussion Starter #140
Engine Part II

As a refresher I received the engine back the first time from the machinist and it had rust really bad in one cylinder of which it needed to be sleeved. I had asked for the cooling jackets to be cleaned as well and they were unsatisfactory as there was still loose chunks inside the core plug holes (I could wipe my finger inside and pull out a bit on my finger). I had also stated on the work order I wanted all the oil gallery welch plugs removed and drilled and threaded for screw in plugs.

Originally I had brought him Clevite cam bearings of which the first time I picked it up they were installed. However because he had to dip the block again he punched out my bearings and then provided some Durabond bearings. That didn't bode well with me.

So the second time I went down to pick it up he said he needs to fit the camshaft to the bearings. Now he had to sleeve the rusty cylinder as something was sprayed on this engine to cause severe rust on that cylinder after it was all machined. That irritated me.

Whilst he is hacking away at these Durabond bearings trying to get the cam in I stuck my finger in the core plug hole and still pluked out flakes of rust. Then I noticed the front oil gallery hole where the distributor lies isn't tapped. He says he never does those on FE's. I'm just rolling my eyes at this point because on the previous two FE's he did for me he did do that one.

There are shavings all over the engine insides now because the cam will not fit. He's going to town on those cam bearings with a bearing file and removing big scary chunks of bearing. I'm just cringing. Then he starts talking to his fellow machinist compatriot about how much trouble they are having with Durabond bearings and how nicely the Clevites worked that I brought him initially. So my internal monologue is going a mile a minute and saying then why are you using them?????

At that point I had resigned myself to calling this a wash and just wanted my engine block back and I'll sort out the rest, even though I already paid for these services. I couldn't take it anymore.


This is the engine from the second time around from the machine shop with its sleeve.


That is one hacked up Durabond bearing and the came still will not fit.


Now he did do a good job on the sleeving at least from what I can see.


You can barely tell the sleeve line.


I realize it's only surface rust on the inside but this isn't what I would call professional work.


There's still rust flakes inside the cooling jackets. I can't have this floating the around the cooling system mostly because of the HVAC system.


For those not familiar with 1965-1968 factory air con systems, there is no mechanical blend door to modulate heat. This system uses modulated vacuum at the coolant valve to carefully meter coolant through the heater core. Any junk in the system can cause the valve to stick open and leave the heat on or even jamb the valve closed causing no heat.

Or even worse partially or fully plug the heater core and look where it is located. Who wants to remove a bumper, the bonnet and the outer front wing to change that. I think I speak for everyone when I say, no one does.


I ended up having to buy a cam bearing tool. I really didn't want to, but these Durabond cam bearings need to come out.


Glad I did because look at the rust inside the oil gallery. This is just unacceptable.

The machinist told me I'd never get the engine as clean as I wanted it.

What could I say to that..... other than..... Challenge Accepted!


Took me a day of acid spraying and wire brushing with all different kinds of brass wire brushes. The junk I removed from the cooling jackets was still pretty impressive.

More in the next post.
121 - 140 of 181 Posts