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Sorry for the delay. Life has happened.
For clarity, this non-adjustable idler pulley is bolted below the AC compressor and with the power steering pump bracket? Correct?

And on the other side of the engine is a similar idler pulley that IS adjustable.

On my Park Lane I have that configuration for factory AC with 410 V8. The parts book is a bit confusing and I have to do some digging. Just wanna make sure I am digging in the correct hole.

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Assuming the above is the correct assumption, the part number is C5AZ 8678 C. Fixed idler pulley mounted between crankshaft pulley and clutch.

LM Applications -
Full sized Merc
1965 w/ 390
1966 w/ 390, 410, 428
1967 428 Police engine
Comet
1966 390, 410, & 428
1967/68 390 & 427

I will get Ford applications after I handle a situation.

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Discussion Starter #223
Hi Action,

Thank you kindly for looking up the pulley. I do hope you are doing well. But I think there is a misunderstanding. I do not need the part number for the '65-'66 Imco equipped full size, FE with factory A/C idler pulley. I already know that's long gone obsolete. What I was looking for was the part number for the pulley that I integrated onto the old idler base. That pulley was from a '66 full size (actual car was a std galaxie 500 with 352 and air) with Thermactor, FE and A/C. That pulley if I remember correctly was mounted above the coolant pump and between the air pump and A/C on a large (spanned the entire front of the engine) bracket. That's the one I couldn't find any reference too in the MPC. I have a vein hope with that pulley in that it would be used in something else that still might be available as it has a replaceable bearing.

Again thank you for your time.
 

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Ford applications:
With AC either hang on OR Integral
Full sized
65/66 352, 390 & 428
1967 428 Police
Fairlane
1966/1967 390

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While the parts of the idler pulley could be ordered seperately* on some applications, this application the pulley was not available to order.

*Bearing, mounting bracket, shield & pulley.

The pulley assembly in your pictures above is also on my '66 Mercury Park Lane with 410 and Integral AC.

Does that help?
If not can you post a picture for the pulley in question?

As an added piece, Ford listed pulley assemblies as left or right as a position on the engine. Are you asking about the pulley assembly on the right of the engine?

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Discussion Starter #226
Ford applications:
With AC either hang on OR Integral
Full sized
65/66 352, 390 & 428
1967 428 Police
Fairlane
1966/1967 390

>>>>>>>>>>>>Action
Thank you Action again for your time. I think this is going to be a dead end. That California only emissions pulley I used is probably unbelievably rare. Looks I'll have to use plan B in having a machine shop make a handful of billet pulleys like the California only pulley.
 

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Discussion Starter #227
While the parts of the idler pulley could be ordered seperately* on some applications, this application the pulley was not available to order.

Bearing, mounting bracket, shield & pulley.

The pulley assembly in your pictures above is also on my '66 Mercury Park Lane with 410 and Integral AC.

Does that help?
If not can you post a picture for the pulley in question?

As an added piece, Ford listed pulley assemblies as left or right as a position on the engine.

>>>>>>>>>>>>>Action
Howdy,



This pulley. This is the California 1966 pulley used for full size, at least, with air pumps. It's a billet pulley from Ford and it screws onto a massive plate in front of the FE.
 

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I guess I wasn't clear.

I was looking for a picture as to mounting location on the engine as I am not sure I understand your written description.

However I have a different idea. What about dimensions of the pulley pictured above. OD, ID and thickness. I will compare that to my two pulleys and see if we have a match. If so you can either build one or find a donor.

One other thing. The MPC doesn't list IMCO much. Only Thermactor. I believe Thermactor is the system with a pump. I don't think IMCO has a pump. I could be mistaken on that.

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Discussion Starter #229
Hiyah Action,

The MPC does show the standard 49 state Imco belt/pulley arrangement. Finding the part number and the illustrations for what the LTD came with is no problem. Finding the thermactor system pulley was just a shot in the dark and I don't wish to take any more of your gracious time up with this. I tossed all the 1966 thermactor stuff, sans this pulley, from the one '66 galaxie 500 that was from California, so I do not have any pictures of those parts.

My best bet will be just having several of these California only pulleys made up locally and that way I can retrofit all the common Imco system pulleys for the A/C belt thereafter. Like I mentioned no one makes the common Imco system idler or tensioner pulleys for the '65-'66 A/C belt anymore and who would use a pulley with a 50 year old bearing with 50 year old grease.

Cheers
 

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OK.

And are you looking for the pulley bearing or the pulley. I thought you have the bearing and were seeking the pulley only.

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Discussion Starter #231
Hello,

Well it's the pulley really, they still make the bearing (albeit all metric) for the 1966 California Thermactor equipped FE's with A/C pulley. The whole problem with the '65-'66 Imco equipped FE (every other galaxie) is that the pulleys are not rebuildable/serviceable. This is compounded by the fact that aftermarket generic pulleys for 17 series belts are smaller than the Ford 3.75" diameter pulley. The idler needs to be at least this big in diameter. Bigger will work too.

Hence the dilemma.
 

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"Is there an engineering number stamped into the mounting bracket?"

I think I saw it in a picture in post 217. C5AA C.

The link above to the ebay sale is the same. Would that have the same diameter pulley. Or are you just looking for bigger.

I am fumbling here as I don't have a full grasp on the goal.

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Discussion Starter #234
"Is there an engineering number stamped into the mounting bracket?"

I think I saw it in a picture in post 217. C5AA C.

The link above to the ebay sale is the same. Would that have the same diameter pulley. Or are you just looking for bigger.

I am fumbling here as I don't have a full grasp on the goal.

>>>>>>>>>>Action
Hi Action,

OK so the goal is to have a 3.75" or larger pulley with a replaceable bearing or a source for a new pulley with integrated bearing of that same diameter. I can't use any of the old or NOS pulleys because all the lube is 50+ years old, regardless if the old pulley bearing still feels fine or not. One must keep in mind our old cars are driven on a daily basis, old cruddy bearings will not last. The link you graciously provided to the E-Bay item is the standard '65-'66 Imco equipped FE A/C idler pulley and assembly (bracket). There is no realistic way to replace the bearing on those pulleys which renders those scrap right off the bat.

That's whole reason why I used the 1966 California only idler pulley, it had a replaceable bearing, of which is easy to get. But it's just a pulley, so I had to make an adapter to mount that California pulley (with new bearing) to the old Imco base so I can use it on the Imco equipped cars we have.

Unfortunately there are no numbers on the California only idler pulley. That's the part I had the whacky idea of seeing if Ford used that California only pulley on anything else that I might be able to find more of those pulleys.

Taking the number off the Imco base pulley assembly is only going to pull up more of the same Imco pulleys and those are all non serviceable (throw-a-way) pulleys. I have a box of those already <sigh>

Like I mentioned it was a shot in the dark and an unlikely one. Please do not waste any more time on this. I really appreciate all you have done. What will definitely solve this problem is having a handful of these California pulleys made up as I can buy the bearing and retainer then making a handful of adapters to retrofit the old Imco pulley bases. That way I have a idler pulley with a brand new bearing and do not have to worry about it seizing up whilst on the road.

Cheers
 

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OK I have a better understanding now.

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Discussion Starter #236
****Rebuilding Door Hinges****​

Here's another SNAFU, this should be easy to do but there is always one that doesn't cooperate. All the door hinges on the LTD are loose and needed to have the bushings replaced. Seems like it should be easy, I went to MAC's and bought several kits that indicated the year and car it would fit. That was mistake 1-20; in trusting MAC's website. The bushings weren't as long as the OEM's on 6 out of 8 hinges on the doors. Not less forgetting the detent spring only worked on the rear doors. So there was that nonsense to deal with.

But the main dilemma was the 2 out of 6 hinges (rear door upper hinges) that were completely different from the rest.

agalaxieworks.com_sites_forum_pics_Passenger_Door_Hinges_LTD_20Hinges_01.jpg


Here are the passenger side hinges. Ignore the upper ones, they are for another car. The lower right side are the rear door hinges and the lower left side are the front door hinges.

agalaxieworks.com_sites_forum_pics_Passenger_Door_Hinges_LTD_20Hinges_02.jpg


Here's the first inconsequential problem. The Mac's bushings aren't as long as the originals. But they will work. Here's the interesting bit, I looked through Dorman and they have bushings listed for Chrysler that are the same dimensions as the old Ford bushings. Plus order through Rock Auto and they are much cheaper than these parts ordered through Mac's. However these bushings will work on front door hinges (both) and the rear door lower hinges.

agalaxieworks.com_sites_forum_pics_Passenger_Door_Hinges_LTD_20Hinges_03.jpg


But this is where the pound head here problem starts. The upper rear door bushings are conical in shape. I couldn't find these ANYWHERE. Plus on all the 3 four door 3rd gen cars here, all the upper hinges had the pin working its way out. It's as though the splines weren't holding. And here's why, the whole upper rear door hinge is the only hinge made from cast aluminum. o_O

All the other door hinges are made from cast iron/cast iron, or cast iron/stamped steel.

agalaxieworks.com_sites_forum_pics_Passenger_Door_Hinges_LTD_20Hinges_04.jpg


This is the little blighter that caused this kerfuffle. And the hinge more or less had the bore to match the conical shape. I mean why????????? Why not use the same bushing the other hinges use. <sigh> No, Ford had to create this little mutant. After a long mental dwell time on this, my goal was to use the same bushings as the other 6 hinges on the car and also fix the hinge walking out problem as well.

agalaxieworks.com_sites_forum_pics_Passenger_Door_Hinges_LTD_20Hinges_06.jpg


This was my solution, a sleeve that would press into the the hinge body that had the correct bore to accept the standard bushing used on the rest of the hinges. The problem is I couldn't use regular steel to make the sleeve because the hinge was aluminum. One bit of moisture trapped between the two and all kinds of unhappiness (corrosion) would quickly ensue. So this had to be made out of stainless steel. And that is a cow to machine because of the hard chromium content.

agalaxieworks.com_sites_forum_pics_Passenger_Door_Hinges_LTD_20Hinges_05.jpg


The other difficulty was how to fixture the aluminum hinge to bore it out true to the hinge centre line. The hinge is funky casted and the only true side is the mating flange to car body.

agalaxieworks.com_sites_forum_pics_Passenger_Door_Hinges_LTD_20Hinges_07.jpg


So basically insert gets pressed into bored hinge. Next, fix the walking pin problem.

agalaxieworks.com_sites_forum_pics_Passenger_Door_Hinges_LTD_20Hinges_08.jpg


The hinge pins MAC's sends you are so generic you have to cut them down. So I did but the upper hinge pin a little longer and machined a slot for a C clip. Problem solved.

agalaxieworks.com_sites_forum_pics_Passenger_Door_Hinges_LTD_20Hinges_09.jpg


You can better see how that hinge body is casted quirko-tweakolated and it's really hard to fixture in anything other than the car.

agalaxieworks.com_sites_forum_pics_Passenger_Door_Hinges_LTD_20Hinges_10.jpg


Bushing pressed in.

agalaxieworks.com_sites_forum_pics_Passenger_Door_Hinges_LTD_20Hinges_11.jpg

Done!

Holy cow that took 2 days when it should have literally been a 10 minute job.

agalaxieworks.com_sites_forum_pics_Passenger_Door_Hinges_LTD_20Hinges_15.jpg


Lower rear door hinge done. This was a 5 minute job.

agalaxieworks.com_sites_forum_pics_Passenger_Door_Hinges_LTD_20Hinges_18.jpg


The front door hinges were a doddle as well. They are all ready for paint now.

The saga slowly presses forward.
 

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LOL The '66 Galaxie I parted out was a four door. One of the rear door hinges was aluminum and all of the others were cast iron.
I don't know why and thought it was a fluke. Now I am thinking it was designed that way.


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Discussion Starter #238
Yuppers the rear door hinges on the 4 door hardtop or post are the same, even the '68 LTD 4 door has the same hinges. The uppers are aluminum. Again makes no sense as it wasn't for weigh savings mindset. They used the same front door hinges as the 2 door. Really over kill, make those out of aluminum. Or if Ford really wanted to save weight on their big block cars, use aluminum intakes on all FE cars regardless of pitiful output of the engine. That would whack off easily 50 pounds off the car.

Again the seemingless crazy things big companies do will probably be a mystery forever as those people are probably long gone. I just posted to an old post I started a couple years ago about some of the absurdity of my Chevrolet Caprice Classic. Again, it was crazy-ville there too.

Here's that link if anyone is interested

https://www.fordforumsonline.com/threads/replacing-a-non-9-axle-with-a-ford-9-axle.14425/#post-181676
 

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Discussion Starter #239
Hello All,

I wanted to pick up from where I left off on this project. I intend to finish this car this summer along with the 1966 galaxie 500 XL.

The reason my interest waned in the LTD is I found a good deal of rot under the vinyl roof and padding.

Here are the pictures of what I found:

LTDRoof_1.jpg


Ford used this fibrous padding under the top but only on the sides to hide the steel roof body lines under vinyl.

LTDRoof_2.jpg


LTDRoof_3.jpg


LTDRoof_4.jpg

The padding stops at the seam on the sides of the main top section.

LTDRoof_5.jpg

It's the padding that seems to have held the moisture and do the damage.

LTDRoof_6.jpg

LTDRoof_7.jpg

This is the disturbing portion of the show. The vinyl top was stapled and nailed, yuppers, nailed into the steel roof. There are loads of holes to weld and grind smooth shut.

LTDRoof_8.jpg


LTDRoof_9.jpg

I am currently working on stripping all the paint and glue from the roof as well as remove the front windscreen to fill those holes created by loads of staples and nails.

More to come.
 

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I replaced a full vinyl with a halo roof in my 1974 Gran Torino
The original roof went completely down the pillars
Much to my surprise We had to do some filling and sanding on it
 
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