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Vinyl roof treatment at least a couple of times a year helps to keep water away from the metal.

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Discussion Starter #242
Hi Action,

The problem stemmed from the staples, nails and emblems that punctured the vinyl and let the water seep through and into the padding where it stayed to break down the paint and oxidize the steel. The vinyl top was in otherwise really good condition and original. The older people who bought and owned this car originally did try to take care of the outside and inside at any rate. The mechanicals, not so much.

The new top is going back on without the padding because we are not going to have a repeat of this. It will have the roof line in the vinyl but I'm ok with that as it's better than dealing with this.

Cheers
 

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OK. Post when done as you usually do.

Hmmm And having a repeat???
If you maintain half as good as you restore, there will never be a repeat.

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Discussion Starter #245
Hello Action and kbuhagiar,

You two are kind indeed. About the roof, when I put the new vinyl top back on, it's getting just glued back into place I have no idea why on earth Ford felt the need to the staple and nail through the steel roof. Now the side LTD emblems are problematic in that the studs for the decoration have to pass through the vinyl and steel roof. That's the reason why the puffy padding will not be going back on as there is no real way to guarantee keeping moisture out through those punctures.

I will say one thing that Ford glue is something to behold. I've tried acetone baths, scraping and in the end just have to resort to buying sanding packs for the sanders and just sand it all off. It's incredibly tedious. This roof is just a massive headache.

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Leave it out in the sun, rain and snow for many years and the vinyl and glue will come off much more easily. No need to wonder how I know that! :eek::rolleyes:
 

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The roof penetrations can be sealed with a good adhesive.
Mitigating moisture migration would be use of a vinyl conditioner annually or more.

The pad was used as a cosmetic effect for two reasons.
To cover up more effectively seems and weld joints or variations on the sheet metal
To simulate a convertible roof as being soft and flexible

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Discussion Starter #249
Hello,

It's been awhile, but back to work on the LTD. My plan for dealing with the body sheet metal was to start at the easy section and work my way back towards the corrosion. But I did tackle another problem along the way (one of the many niggles to be sorted out).

So the fuel tank filler neck seal was on the list to be sorted out. It was leaking when I filled the tank. I put a new O-ring in there but it wasn't quite right obviously. It appears there are two different kinds of seals used on 3rd gen fuel tank filler necks. One uses an O-ring and the other uses a lip seal. The tanks are physically different and one seal is not interchangeable with the other.

LTD_04.jpg

This seems to be the more common type fuel tank it uses the lip seal.

LTD_03.jpg


This one. However the fuel tank in the LTD has a tank with a recess in the opening to hold an O-ring. I went through about 75 dollars worth of O-rings (Mc Master) before I finally found one that fits properly.

LTD_01.jpg

LTD_02.jpg

This is one of those seemingly simple problems that turns into a multi-day way more expensive problem than it ever should be. But this did the trick.

Next was to start removing the rest of the detachable parts off the main body shell. It still had two complete doors on it and so I removed the door innards in order to make them lighter.

LTD_08.jpg


Next I removed the new tail lamp assemblies.

LTD_09.jpg

So now I can just remove the deck lid and the doors when I was ready to block sand the entire body before paint.

Next the windscreen had to come out.

LTD_05.jpg

At first the glass seemed useable, just a few nicks and pits as one would expect. However....

LTD_06.jpg

The glass is starting to delaminate around the edges and hasn't spread beyond the side trim yet. But it will. So I shall have to buy a new windscreen for the car. I'll keep this as an emergency replacement.

missed1.jpg

It may be hard to tell but Ford went pyscho on the staples and nails into the roof for the top in the front as well.

Before I get deep into the repair I wanted to remove the dash and steering wheel.

More in next post.
 

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DXL, great to hear from you again! Good to see you're back at it!

Hope to see more of you and everyone else here as I have recently re-joined the classic Ford world - not quite a Galaxie but almost as big (see avatar) and I need to to re-establish my Blue Oval street cred, lol!
 

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Discussion Starter #252
Continued....

All this had to come out. I'd leave the column as that could be covered to protect, but I still need to move the car, of which it moves under its own power.

LTD_10.jpg

So the process started, then I found something amusing then disconcerting.

LTD_15.jpg

So this is the back of the instrument panel. You can recognize the radio on the left, speedo in the middle and the fuel gauge on the right. The thing in the middle of the speedo and fuel gauge is the voltage regulator, which is nothing more than a high speed flasher. However this one is a virgin and was never connected.

The jittery electrically noisy flasher/voltage regulator works in this case because the fuel gauge is thermal electric and buffers out the current pulses with the thermal mass of the bi-metal needle mechanism and heater in the gauge.

LTD_17.jpg

Um there's one screwed into the dash frame.

LTD_16.jpg

I guess someone was hungover at the factory the day this one was put together. Too funny.

Now for the irritating portion of discovery. Rodent damage and a possible shorted ignition coil at one time in its life.

LTD_12.jpg

The right turn indicator never worked and my natural assumption was a bulb. Um no, the wire was chewed clean through. And you can see the beginnings of a nest of insulation behind this. There was no feces so the rodent never really settled in.

This seemed to be the extent of the damage from rodentia. Whilst this is unfortunate it is still better than newer cars where the wiring insulation is soy based and is very yummy to animals. This new biodegradable insulation was phased in around 2000 and is apparently a huge problem for newer cars and trucks. As if overpriced cheap disposable vehicles aren't expensive enough to have these kinds of problems as well. But I digress.

The next problem I noted was the tape on the main harness was melted.

LTD_13.jpg

LTD_14.jpg

It looks like the ignition resistance wire was the hot one (pink top one). I can only surmise the coil shorted at some point early in the cars life as this LTD still sported the yellow top Ford coil.

I had already planned on replacing the entire harness anyway as I am redesigning the electrical system somewhat but this is just another reason why you cannot trust an older car without completely going through it.

Continued in next post.
 

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Discussion Starter #253
Continued....

Next was to repair the front windscreen frame area.

LTD_18.jpg

I removed all the butyl window sealant. Good grief that was tedious, I am not using that for the new windscreen. The windscreen and rear window will be glued in with modern urethane after the body is painted and the new top fitted.

Here you can see all the holes in the top glass frame.

LTD_19.jpg

Next was to plug weld all the holes. I used ER70 0.025" wire with a gas mix of CO2/Ar and the current and wire feed for 18 gauge mild steel.

LTD_20.jpg

After I plug welded every single hole next was to very carefully grind down each weld with a Dremel. This was very time consuming as each weld had to be at least flush to the plane of the channel as not to interfere with the top material and top stainless trim. This requires loads of patience as you do not want to accidentally cut into the thin sheet metal all the while lightly feathering the weld into the existing structure. It almost requires scalpel like precision in order to avoid making even more work.

LTD_21.jpg

Done. All holes are filled in with steel. There is no need to finish the metal perfectly smooth as all this is hidden anyway. The only two goals were to fill the holes in order to stop the ingress of water during a monsoon and also add a layer or two of corrosion protection of which the 2 stage paint job will more than adequately do.

Well that was the easy part that was finished the other day.

More to come.

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #255
DXL, great to hear from you again! Good to see you're back at it!

Hope to see more of you and everyone else here as I have recently re-joined the classic Ford world - not quite a Galaxie but almost as big (see avatar) and I need to to re-establish my Blue Oval street cred, lol!
Hello kbuhagiar,

That's a very nice T-Bird, do you have a posting with pictures of it? When did you buy it?

Well I did waste a bunch of time trying to resurrect a '79 Dodge Power Wagon. What a complete pile of ........... :mad: This is the first and last Mopar I'll ever own. And it isn't because it was neglected or left for dead. I'm used to that and can deal with that. It was still being used when we bought it, granted it is rough, but upon disassembly of a similar parts truck I have quickly come to learn that it's a badly engineered vehicle that uses the cheapest materials. And apparently the newer Dodge stuff is just as bad. I've read reports on interiors falling apart, wiring and electronic problem galore and the one version of the Hemi that loves to eat camshafts. How they stay in business I'll never know.

I will say this, these old Fords are like Rolls Royce's compared to a Mopar. I have such a renewed appreciation for our 3rd gen full size Fords and my old Caprice Classic convertible, heck, even our '96 Impala SS when once I thought they were super cheesy. Owning a Dodge put it all into perspective.

Cheers
 

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I really like the clean floor pans!!!

Those resistance wire got hot over the years. I have replaced a few. Or rather just cut both ends and ran a replacement taped to the side of the harness. Didn't really look good, just got the job done when the customer had an inop vehicle.

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I used to stock those resistant wires
But people didn't want to go though the bother of installing them
 

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Hello kbuhagiar,

That's a very nice T-Bird, do you have a posting with pictures of it? When did you buy it?

Cheers
62-t-bird-roadster-15-1.jpg 62-t-bird-roadster-11.jpg 1962-t-bird-62.jpg 62-t-bird-roadster-21.jpg 1962-t-bird-2.jpeg 62-t-bird-roadster-15-1.jpg 62-t-bird-roadster-11.jpg 1962-t-bird-62.jpg 62-t-bird-roadster-21.jpg 1962-t-bird-2.jpeg

Just got it a month ago. Me and my better half have been hankering for a convertible for some time, plus we both have a fondness for early Sixties full-size Fords. We stumbled upon this one and figured we could combine elements of both...plus that top. That glorious fully-automated-and-completely-hidden-when-open carnival-ride of a convertible top. I've always been smitten with them, now I finally have one. And I used to repair pinball machines as a side gig, so I am quite familiar with relays and limit switches and would be up to any mechanical challenges it may present. Plus its a really cool car.
 

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^^^^ Love the swing a way!!!

The top is similar to my 66 Lincoln.

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Discussion Starter #260
Roof Repair

Hello All,

I have been working on this roof project and it's a bugger. With that here's some updates. I finally have the roof stripped of irritating glue, paint, vinyl, padding, silicone, butyl, nails, rivets and staples. That was unbelievably tedious. The glue Ford used must have been from the space program as that just didn't want to let go. Not to mention dealing with all the other stuff on there. I want to slap that someone at Ford for thinking, hymmm, this is a good idea.

The worst side on this car is the passenger side, but since metal/body work is not my forte I had a lot of apprehension starting on this so I decided to tackle the drivers side since it was far less worse. There were only two areas that needed to be cut out and patches welded in.

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First area.

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Second area.

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First section cut.

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Second section cut.

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Patch pieces. These are from the donor '66 roof so it should be the same exact steel as in this car.

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Now I've watched countless videos on metal shaping even bought a couple from British master coach builders and whilst those guys could do the most amazing work with the basic of hand tools the one thing that always struck me as odd is they never did anything for corrosion protection. They would layer bare steel together or have exposed steel back sides. It's like they welcomed the eventual come back to fix the same rusty panel..... again...... and again.

So since I'm layering steel over steel for the window flange, I applied some weld through primer to stave off corrosion between the bare layers of steel. Now I will be using a internal frame type spray inside the roof area to coat from the inside after I finish all this steel work. But I even see body shops missing this step as well.

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Stuff I use.

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Did the under and back side of the replacement piece also.

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Every little bit helps. I DO NOT want to ever have to fix this roof ever again.

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This little guy was first. There is no direct access to this area from the inside with the internal roof framing in the way. If I crawl into the boot of the car I can barely access it. So I had to get creative on how to fixture the patch to weld. So I used these little neodymium magnets to hold the piece in place.

continued in next post.
 
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