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596 Posts
Discussion Starter #261
Roof Repair Continued


This piece is actually a slight compound curve and I bent the patch close as I could at this point. I gambled that at least one corner of the patch would sit flush with the existing roof and I won that bet and that's where I started with tacking.


To locate the trim stud hole I drew a slew of intersecting lines through the original hole and extended them outward as with the curves it's nearly impossible to use any other reference point. Once the side flush was tacked I crawled in and removed the magnets and used the little screwdriver to pry the edges of the patch till they were flush with the roof skin and continued tacking in this way.




Did a quick grind and found my centre for the trim hole and drilled that before I lost my reference lines.


Did a first round grind flush and I had low spots.


Since I can't bump them out from behind I got to use this guy.


It's a spot welder and slide hammer rolled into one. You spot weld onto the area and use the slide hammer to bump the metal. Then twist and it comes off. "Rinse and repeat."


I filled in some of the dimples from the puller with more weld and...


No plastic filler required.


tapped the hole for 8-32 and this patch is done.

continued in next post.

596 Posts
Discussion Starter #262
Roof Repair Continued


This one is next.


The patch was held in place by some Clecos. Now I did screw up and removed too much metal from the roof skin as the gap was a bit wide at the top.


Fortunately the MIG welder and I have become really good friends over the years and can deal with that with no problems.


First round of blending. I had a low spot in the lower section.


I reworked it, but still had a dew low dimples, then I remembered why am I even bothering, first the vinyl top will hide slight imperfections anyway, and secondly I am going to try to lead that seam so I can just put a little lead in the low spotted area to calm the OCD.


I had to resistance weld the flat section of the flange together so I used the Harbor Freight thingy. Damn this spot welder is heavy. I got lucky and it was an open box item and the checkout girl basically sold it to me for 50% off. It actually does the job.


The only bit left was to install the peg for the trim.


I bought the attachment for this machine that welds those on. I bought a bag of 100 of them and did some practicing.


Did some experiments with scrap first. You can't adjust the current as it's fixed, but you can adjust the weld time. I think this machine puts out 3500 Amperes. I turned up the time and it just melted the little peg.


2 is the magic number for this job.

continued in next post.

596 Posts
Discussion Starter #263
Roof Repair Continued


I measured off the other side and installed the peg.


This side is done, for the little pits elsewhere I just plan to lead those in and smooth out.


Still have 18 million staple and nail holes to fill and grind.


Damn it Ford... your pissing me off with this nonsense.:mad:


I still have to do this side, but after tackling the other side I feel a bit more confident now. Don't get me wrong, this is truly the hideous side of the project and it will probably take a couple of long days to complete. Took me 10 bloody hours to do two small patches on the other side.


I did just about patch all the staple and nail holes, have a couple to redo as this is not an easy area to on. At least the windscreen was big enough to stand up in and work. This rear window is very difficult to work on in the middle.


That's it for now.

Until next time.


1978 LTD Landau
25 Posts
Oh this is really getting some great metal work done to it!

Saw a method from this man on a crazy different way of butt welding panels...

Really not a usable method in a case where you cannot access the backside. Otherwise you end up with scrap metal rattling around on the inside of your panel.

Anyways, I thought I'd share that since it might be a useful trick later on - but I'm really loving this project!
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