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Discussion Starter #1
Currently my 67 falcon has stock single exhaust. looking to buy the headers for it to convert to dual exhaust.
Questions:
1. Do I need to add a "H" pipe or "X" pipe to connect the pipes before running the rest of the pipes down each side? (Will it help on performance or just sound?)
2. As far as the mufflers, what i use to put on all my cars back in the day was 16" glass packs.
47508

Is that a good choice or will it sound like a import Honda? don't want that sound...
3. What I would like to have is to dump out in front of the back tires with a split exhaust tip.
47507

How to rout that I don't know the best way to get to the drive side.
 

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Just sound ... not much effect on performance unless you're looking for to shave 10ths of a second at the drag strip.

Some thoughtful comments about "H" contrasted with "X" here; from guys that know Ford performance (albeit all focused on "FE" V8 motors).. "H" pipes are often considered more traditional.
I had a set of Flowmaster 40s on a '66 C-code Mustang .. the droning eventually drove me nuts and was made respectable with a couple of junkyard resonators before the turndowns; I'm a turndown type of guy.
The big Ford in my sig has had glasspacks since the mid60s and still sound great; when I jump on it they bark plenty, but don't annoy my neighbors leaving or returning home.
Enjoy the process!
Kevin
 

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Many ways to get to what you are describing.

One problem you will have is the muffler length partially will determine where you can have the pipes exit. The pic you attached may be problematic to get to them from muffler outlets. 'Looks like behind rear tire exit form.

I used simple 2" pipe and pre-formed angle connectors from Dual Out Hooker Longtube headers. A favorite muffler are 'Smithys' to control dreaded six drone. X or H pipe for mild six is typically for high performance not sound enhancement..

Stainless S 'band connectors' make R & R simple when needed, plenty of rubber hangers and 'flex conns' are highly recommended for torque twist survival ...

have fun

'61 250 Comet with dual outs / Smithy's / exit in front of rear wheels

. . .

'63 170 Wagon uses two OEM six mufflers for quiet cruise at any speed ( 2 mufflers = 1/2 the original muffler backpressure)

. . . .


Have fun
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Many ways to get to what you are describing.

One problem you will have is the muffler length partially will determine where you can have the pipes exit. The pic you attached may be problematic to get to them from muffler outlets. 'Looks like behind rear tire exit form.

I used simple 2" pipe and pre-formed angle connectors from Dual Out Hooker Longtube headers. A favorite muffler are 'Smithys' to control dreaded six drone. X or H pipe for mild six is typically for high performance not sound enhancement..

Stainless S 'band connectors' make R & R simple when needed, plenty of rubber hangers and 'flex conns' are highly recommended for torque twist survival ...

have fun

'61 250 Comet with dual outs / Smithy's / exit in front of rear wheels

. . .

'63 170 Wagon uses two OEM six mufflers for quiet cruise at any speed ( 2 mufflers = 1/2 the original muffler backpressure)

. . . .


Have fun
thanks for the info, the routing of the pipes helps a lot.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Just sound ... not much effect on performance unless you're looking for to shave 10ths of a second at the drag strip.

Some thoughtful comments about "H" contrasted with "X" here; from guys that know Ford performance (albeit all focused on "FE" V8 motors).. "H" pipes are often considered more traditional.
I had a set of Flowmaster 40s on a '66 C-code Mustang .. the droning eventually drove me nuts and was made respectable with a couple of junkyard resonators before the turndowns; I'm a turndown type of guy.
The big Ford in my sig has had glasspacks since the mid60s and still sound great; when I jump on it they bark plenty, but don't annoy my neighbors leaving or returning home.
Enjoy the process!
Kevin
thanks for that info, so i'll do what i have always done then, run w/o a "h" or "x" and see what size glass pack will fit in the space needed so i can dump out where i want.
 

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Be right there. Just have to finish this little project

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Discussion Starter #9
so question is there any parts cars where you are at?
I'm still looking for a driver side front finder or at least the lower area in front of the tire.
 

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Not flying due to COVID restrictions!!! Of course I will be there tomorrow.

Better than a parts car, I understand there is reproduction sheet metal available.
But if used is the way you want to go .... Search Results | Desert Valley Auto Parts (dvap.com)

$275 plus shipping. Not sure if that is a good price. Every time I get stuff there it seems like the price just went up.

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Discussion Starter #12
Not flying due to COVID restrictions!!! Of course I will be there tomorrow.

Better than a parts car, I understand there is reproduction sheet metal available.
But if used is the way you want to go .... Search Results | Desert Valley Auto Parts (dvap.com)

$275 plus shipping. Not sure if that is a good price. Every time I get stuff there it seems like the price just went up.

Action
it was sold day late dollar short
 

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Just do not go over 2" pipes. You need some back pressure. I like the H pipe, they help to balance the pressure between sides & tame any chance of a drone noise. Also, I prefer the Summit Racing Turbo mufflers. They are cheap, aluminized, & sound great!! 👍
 

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Discussion Starter #14
so a little update on my pipes.
got in the headers last week and now the other parts are slowly coming in.
yesterday, got in the glasspacks and echo tips
today i think the exhaust pipes it's self and hangers..... maybe
i have decided to do it all myself after talking to the exhaust shop.
pulled in there 3 weeks ago and got a quote for the install.
told the guy i'll install the headers and i'll have a short run of pipe there so all they have to do is install glasspacks and echo tips and have it dump out in front of the back tires.
he came back with a quote of 225.00 but prob. more.........
yea that a lot for such a small run of pipe.
So i fig. i can do it all myself for cheaper because i know hoe to weld and my mig. needs the dust blowen off it anyways.
pipe bender - $90
glasspacks - $18 x (2) $36
7.5' of 2" exhaust pipe - $18 x (2) $36 (over kill on length, but my son need pipe for his Subaru Brat and it's good to have laying around.
2" exhaust pipe hanger - $4 x (4) $16
echo tips - $34
so my total cost is right at $212
the cost could have been less with out buying the extra pipe and the pipe bender, buy it's a project and new tools are always good.
also my sons need me to build him a set of handle bars for is bike so that pipe bender will be put to goo use.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
so one quick question it it better to install the glasspacks and then make the turn to the drivers side, or make the turn and then glasspack?
i dont know if it makes a different on the sound if the glasspacks is closer to the end or closer to the headers....
 

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It seems to me and I haven't done this
I would put them behind the turn and try to make them the same distance in the system to the rear
Like side by side in your system equal length
 

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Discussion Starter #17
that kind of what i was thinking after i posted the question. i think if i put it to close to the headers it would burn out the glasspacks faster. let the exhaust cool off a bit before the glasspacks.
 

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Plus it would look neater
To let headers do their job you should have straight shot after the bend
That's the way I look at if
But like I said I have never put them on a 6
V-8* yes
 

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Discussion Starter #19
this will be my first as well on a i6. 350's all the time back in the day.
 
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