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Discussion Starter #21
So i'll post pics of the process as it happens. It sounds like it will be simple but ya'll know how that goes....
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Harbor freight had a 12t hyd. pipe bender on sale last weekend for 99.99 and i had a 20% off coupon.
it is meant for more solid pipe then exhaust, but if you fill the pipe with sand and then bend it, it will produce a good slick bend with out crimping it.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
so when you think is will go great and simple............................
the night before i soaked all the manifold bolts down with liquid wrench so in hopes of all the bolts coming out with very min. problems
well all but (3) so now i have (3) bolts broke off inside the head all most flush. rrrrr haven't tried to drill and ez-out them yet.
so i fig. i'll will at least get the exhaust ran and come back to the head later when i go to town to get taps and ez-outs.
half ways laid out the pipes and went to town, got the parts i thought i needed got back home and i forgot the darn ez-outs. then did some research on the new head bolts i bought and found out that i got the wrong type for cast-iron heads.
i got grade 5 and from what i read i need grade 8 moly..
what was in the head from prev. owner fix was grade 5 prob. lowes special bolts.
so by this time next day im not really happy with the prev. day process. so i fig. today i'll just bend pipe and get that done at least. ....................... nope. that did go how i fig. either... didn't get the sand packed hard as good as i should and the bends are ok but not as smooth as i want. then i had to jump ship on that to take care of house stuff. ooo what a not so good productive weekend.
 

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Thanks for sharing.
Classic car work can be highs and lows.
Thanks for sharing the dark side. Doesn't make it better. And I understand the struggle.

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...the dark side.

Unfortunately, the exh. manifold fasteners angle up into head so drilling out in place will be more difficult. Removing small six head for repair is often only option. Small diameter of fastener shank makes drilling a challenge. Helicoil repair technique may be simpler in long run.





have fun
 

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Discussion Starter #30
yea i thought about removing the head and drilling it out, but oooo man i dont know if i want to find out some other hidden secret inside that motor....i would hate to get in the process of removing the head and SNAP!! #$%[email protected]#$%##$% there goes another bolt broke.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
o, on the flip side the og. exhaust manifold had a crack on the under side that someone tried to weld up and dude that area was ghost white for the heat difference. Good thing i was replacing it with the new headers
 

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yea i thought about removing the head and drilling it out, but oooo man i dont know if i want to find out some other hidden secret inside that motor....i would hate to get in the process of removing the head and SNAP!! #$%[email protected]#$%##$% there goes another bolt broke.
The other bad thing could be that hidden secret inside comes out in 9 months from now.
Usually dealing with hidden issues a sooner than later approach is best.
Snapping a head bolt, it is possible. However very rare as compared to an exhaust bolt. Snapping an exhaust manifold bolt on a 50 year old engine that has never had the manifold removed is a very common thing!

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Discussion Starter #33
i believe i need grade 8 bolts does it matter if i use the zinc alloy type of the blacked out version type?
either one i will use some anti-seize.
 

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more slightly dark side:

The Hooker headers I use on small bock six engines need 'header bolts' to be able to get a wrench on them. Regular or grade 8 3/8-16 bolts hex heads are large enough that they hit the pipes and wrench can't fit on it. ARP and other aftermarket header bolts use smaller hex heads or allen bolts to get the wrench to fit. Header fastener torque spec' is low and 'locks' are also popular but I don't use them, I use 'star' washers.


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hav efun
 

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Discussion Starter #37
so when i was talking to the guy on the phone at napa to get some bolts, he said that there should only be 3/8"-16 bolts and not 3/8"-16 plus 5/16"-18 bolts.
if this is true then this head has been taped out in some bolt locations, correct. in the pic you see the difference in size top bolt 3/8 bottom bolt 5/16....
 

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Looks like someone repaired it before
Can you drill and put another insert in it?
Talk to a Machinist
 

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Originally, all of the manifold bolts would be the same.

If you have to remove the head and it is the original 67 head, now might be a good time to get that freshened up. Classic Inlines (fordsix.com)
Because this engine was used in Mustang, it will be widely supported. Guide To Ford Six-Cylinder Performance (mustangandfords.com)

Yeah that means opening the wallet. And a 50+ year old engine is no longer in it's prime. The evidence is the previous repairs made to the exhaust manifold and the bolts. Most engines will wear up top first. Oil has to make a longer trip to get there. Just a thought.

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Discussion Starter #40
So, if anyone want to support the "67 FALCON FOUNDATION OF ARKANSAS" please send funds to me...I'll post PayPal account on request. :- )
 
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