1967 4 DOOR FALCON 200 Dual Exhaust Question
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so i got a lot done over the weekend, yet i'm not a s fast as shop with all the fancy dancy tools and such.
got he 2 sticks of 2" pipe and ended up using almost all of (1) stick.
Had to cut the bend off the end of the header pipe to get a straight run.
Getting all the parts out to start the show, and i'll let the pictures do the talking..
using pre-bent 90's because when i tried it didn't work out so good.
and now the passenger side..
did this for both sides at the header pipe for a clamp connection
and yea i put ant-seize on the header bolts (grade 8) is all could find local
That is a fare as i have gotten. when i get home today i hope to get the glass-pack assembly welded to the pass. side pipe and start fig. out where to install the hangers.
i have been loving working on this, it has been 5 or 6 years since i have welded last time, back in my mini-truck days.
got he 2 sticks of 2" pipe and ended up using almost all of (1) stick.
Had to cut the bend off the end of the header pipe to get a straight run.
Getting all the parts out to start the show, and i'll let the pictures do the talking..
using pre-bent 90's because when i tried it didn't work out so good.
and now the passenger side..
did this for both sides at the header pipe for a clamp connection
and yea i put ant-seize on the header bolts (grade 8) is all could find local
That is a fare as i have gotten. when i get home today i hope to get the glass-pack assembly welded to the pass. side pipe and start fig. out where to install the hangers.
i have been loving working on this, it has been 5 or 6 years since i have welded last time, back in my mini-truck days.
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You are getting there
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Can you put it directly to the floor board
To me that would be better
No vibration
To me that would be better
No vibration
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14,409 Posts
Glaspacks are not all that large and they are a flow through design.
The exhaust gas does not spend much time in the glasspack. Unlike a muffler that changes the exhaust flow and slows the flow, a glasspack allows gas to blow through. I would think a glasspack would run cooler by a small margin than a muffler.
The exception is a leak. All bets are off if there is a leak.
When the vehicle is moving it won't be an issue at all.
If it is an issue it will be when the vehicle is stationary, you might want to wrap not only the glasspack but the entire pipe under the passenger compartment.
Then insulation under the carpet can help as well.
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The exhaust gas does not spend much time in the glasspack. Unlike a muffler that changes the exhaust flow and slows the flow, a glasspack allows gas to blow through. I would think a glasspack would run cooler by a small margin than a muffler.
The exception is a leak. All bets are off if there is a leak.
When the vehicle is moving it won't be an issue at all.
If it is an issue it will be when the vehicle is stationary, you might want to wrap not only the glasspack but the entire pipe under the passenger compartment.
Then insulation under the carpet can help as well.
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Good Idea
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so last night i got both sides installed and hung on the car. progress.. woohoo.
went to install the starter and then noticed that the hot-starter wire that connects to the starter in very brittle and wire coating just flak off. it must be the original cable for 67. so today i got to get a new cable before anything. Dude i was so hoping to hear that motor, but i guess good things come to those who wait.
i didn't take any pics of the hangers and mounting, but what i did was but some self-tapping bolts (not screws) and drilled into some of the beefier steel to mount the hangers. don't know if i need to put a tack (2) welds on each hanger or not. i think i'll wait and see how they hold up first. my 18yo son suggest that we can push start it so we can hear the motor. that a way we don't have to wait. i love that i have a gearhead son.......
went to install the starter and then noticed that the hot-starter wire that connects to the starter in very brittle and wire coating just flak off. it must be the original cable for 67. so today i got to get a new cable before anything. Dude i was so hoping to hear that motor, but i guess good things come to those who wait.
i didn't take any pics of the hangers and mounting, but what i did was but some self-tapping bolts (not screws) and drilled into some of the beefier steel to mount the hangers. don't know if i need to put a tack (2) welds on each hanger or not. i think i'll wait and see how they hold up first. my 18yo son suggest that we can push start it so we can hear the motor. that a way we don't have to wait. i love that i have a gearhead son.......
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You might consider adding a heat shield wrap.
It can be had in the same color as the cable. (Red or black)
Amazon.com: Heat Hose Fiberglass Wrap Shield Sleeve Wire Fuel Line Heat Shield Roll High Temp Black Colour Adjustable 10FT-13MM(1/2") for Car Wire Loom Protection: Automotive
It is low cost, easy to install and effective. A rare combination in a car repair.
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It can be had in the same color as the cable. (Red or black)
Amazon.com: Heat Hose Fiberglass Wrap Shield Sleeve Wire Fuel Line Heat Shield Roll High Temp Black Colour Adjustable 10FT-13MM(1/2") for Car Wire Loom Protection: Automotive
It is low cost, easy to install and effective. A rare combination in a car repair.
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so i got the exhaust finished, will post pics later.
question tho, took it for a test drive and it spits and sputs under a load. at idle it runs smooth. revs up fin. but going down the high way at 60/70 it jerks and stutters. could it be the chock not opening up like it should. before it had that heat tube that ran from the manifold to the top side of the carb. it is still connected to the carb and i ran it down in-between the header pipes to hopefully still get the same effect. i'm confused on why it might be. if this has been solved before on a different page please point me in the right place.
question tho, took it for a test drive and it spits and sputs under a load. at idle it runs smooth. revs up fin. but going down the high way at 60/70 it jerks and stutters. could it be the chock not opening up like it should. before it had that heat tube that ran from the manifold to the top side of the carb. it is still connected to the carb and i ran it down in-between the header pipes to hopefully still get the same effect. i'm confused on why it might be. if this has been solved before on a different page please point me in the right place.
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In general that description is a lean running. However some answers are needed first.
At that speed does it occur when maintaining speed? Or accelerating or decelerating?
What happens if you
accelerate slightly? Or come to a rise or slight uphill in the road?
decelerate?
If chock means choke and you think it is on when engine is warmed up, pull over, remove air cleaner and verify choke is on with engine running at idle.
If choke is not wide open mechanically open the choke and drive again on the road at speed. Report back if that makes a change.
As far as eliminating the hot air choke tube system (because you have no with the manifold change) either
make a stove around one pipe with filtered fresh air in and heated air to the choke housing
Or go to an electric choke.
Since you are modifying things I vote for the electric choke
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when getting up to speed like roumping on it. its seamed to be good but once it planes out it starts sputtering. get it so gas its clears up but then it sputs again. push clutch in revving it up is good no delays and or issues. release clutch give gas its good for a sec and starts all over again... so confusing. i think i'll pull the plugs and check the timing.
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