Ford Automobiles banner
1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
When I got my LTD 2 years ago I went through the brakes as they were barely working, this included replacing the brake booster and master cylinder, overhauling calipers and adjusting the rears with a new spring and self adjuster kit, finally they worked but I really disliked their action and feel, so after putting up with them all this time I thought I’d have another bash at them during lockdown ! I traced the fault to the servo , specifically the control valve, I should at this point state that it is an 11.1/2” booster , with further investigation I found that the bell crank wasn’t able to depress the control valve properly due to fouling on the Bakelite control valve housing part of the diaphragm. I removed 5mm from the end of the housing by the bell rank pushrod using a mini grinder . Once all fitted back in the car the brakes are superb both in feel and modulation, when I checked the old booster I found it had the same fault too. Hope this may help someone else too!
 

·
Administrator
Phoenix, AZ 85008
Joined
·
16,559 Posts
Thanks for posting.

Have any pictures?
The terms you are using are not ones used with the brake system in the US.

BTW if you have stock disc brakes on a '68 Ford they were optional, 4 piston calipers and not common at all. A nice piece of history.

>>>>>>>>>Action
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Tire Auto part Automotive tire Rim
And this is the reason why, if you imagine the spanner Is the bell crank, when the pedal is pressed the control valve pushrod can’t depress properly because it fouls on the housing And leads to terrible feeling and modulation of the brakes, now with mod done the brakes are absolutely awesome!
 

·
Administrator
Phoenix, AZ 85008
Joined
·
16,559 Posts
You modified the later style calipers to be used replacing the 4 piston calipers!!!!

I have two cars with 4 piston calipers. Used in the late 1960s, optional on full sized Ford/Mercury and standard on Lincoln Continental

Action
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,078 Posts
Hello,

Yuppers the 1968 Ford full size brakes use single piston calipers. Also to be noted is there are two different style boosters used for all 3rd gen full size (65-68). They are the Bendix and the Midland Ross. The Midland Ross is all but extinct now, I think you can still get a Bendix style.

But here's the clincher, the bracket and lever assembly bolted to the firewall where the booster is installed is specific to either the Midland Ross or Bendix. The bolt holes are different as well as the lever. Now it's possible to elongate holes and whatnot to get it to fit but the geometry will never be perfect.

Also Richard Dengel's post shows a Bendix booster and it looks like a remanufactured unit. I can't tell from the picture as the view isn't wide enough, but the correct Bendix housing will have a slope to the mounting position in the back half of the steel shell. This is needed for the 3rd gen Fords for proper geometry of the linkage. If he received a flat backed booster, which is much more common, that would probably explain the problems he had.

Cheers

DXL
 

·
Administrator
Phoenix, AZ 85008
Joined
·
16,559 Posts
Wow, I thought full-sized Ford/Mercury went to single piston in model year 1969.

I know there was issues with the 4 piston caliper with pistons sticking. The change to the single fixed that problem.

>>>>>>>>>>Action
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Hi there I'm new to this Galaxie page, I'm currently rebuilding 1968 galaxie 2 door 302 and looking for ways or how too on this brake setup. Did the 1968 come with this kind of brake setup , and my car currently has a hard time breaking the brake pedal itself is hard to push is that the master cylinder that's causing that? Ps thanks for the info.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,078 Posts
Hi there I'm new to this Galaxie page, I'm currently rebuilding 1968 galaxie 2 door 302 and looking for ways or how too on this brake setup. Did the 1968 come with this kind of brake setup , and my car currently has a hard time breaking the brake pedal itself is hard to push is that the master cylinder that's causing that? Ps thanks for the info.
Hello Jared_Funk,

Are you saying you want to convert to disc brakes on your 68? If you are, you are in for a sticky wicket. Aside from the brake calipers and pads the rest of the system is a one year only system and only on full size (Custom/500, galaxie 500, LTD, XL, Country Squire) which makes getting the parts that are available very expensive and many of the parts are not available. The other side to that sticky wicket is even if you find a parts car 68 Ford full size with factory disc brakes things like the booster and the valving is 50+ years old and either failed or at the very end of its life.

Please don't get me wrong, I am not saying it's impossible, I rebuilt an entire 68 full size disc brake system recently, but it's very costly (parts + labour is well over a 1000 dollars) and very time consuming.

Even though I abhor the aftermarket, you may want to look at Leed Brakes. I do believe they have a disc brake kit for the '65-'68 Ford full size cars. 65-68 have the same front end components.

Good Luck

Cheers
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
wasn’t able to depress the control valve properly due to fouling on the Bakelite control valve housing part of the diaphragm. I removed 5mm from the end of the housing by the bell rank pushrod using a mini grinder . Once all fitted back in the car the brakes are superb both in feel and modulation, when I checked the old booster I found it had the same fault too.
Here’s a pic of what I removed from the Bakelite control valve housing
View attachment 44526
can you point out exactly where you took off 5mm with grinder... I’m having trouble with mine releasing slow
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top