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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,

This is a new thread I'm starting on yet another project car. Actually I have a basket case '68 XL fastback that I was going to start after these two '66's were done. However another '68 XL fastback sort of fell into my lap that is cosmetically superior to my original XL pile of junk. However whilst this looks far better than my old one, it has many mechanical, electrical and vacuum problems.

Some have asked well if it has so many problems, why did I buy it. Good question. My XL is missing key trim and the trim that is present most of it is pretty bad and would need reconditioning. Then there is finding the missing bits. I ran an estimate of what it would take to make my old XL's body look as nice as this new XL and it would be about 3 times what I paid for this one. So whilst this XL wasn't cheap, it was cost effective in the long run and it saves me time.

Here's my old pile of '68 XL

47763


47764


47765


Oof! what a mess. It was delivered not running as it sat for decades but I did get it running and drivable. The frame is rotted and portions of the body as well including the floor pans/braces and trunk pan.

Now a word on 1968 XL's. The reason why I bought this is because it has what I call the tri-fecta of options rarely found in these. They are an FE big block (usually they came with a 302), factory A/C (expensive option back then) and bucket seats/centre console with floor shift (even though it's an XL you could get them with a bench and column shift).

In the years I've owned this I've only seen 3 others come up for sale that had all three of these options, that includes the one I just bought.

47766


47767


47768


47769


47770


This car also has one more valuable, well at least to me, option. That is a factory AM-FM stereo. The reason why this is a valuable option is I've been trying to find the clear dash lens for this for years and have been unsuccessful. You see for the 1968 dash withcidentally looks very similar to the '65/'66 dash Ford made the dash different for AM only and AM-FM stereo. I have two extra of these AM-FM stereo radios and one NOS black plastic applique but I haven't been able to find the clear dash lens either NOS or used. That begs the question how do you put a price a part you cannot get?

This car was owned for 28 years from the people I bought it from, they did try to take care of it, but the problem was plain to see that lack of research or willingness to buy expensive parts or have the correct part sent off for overhaul led to compounding problems. Also the seller was very honest and said this car has near enough 300,000 miles on it, well 291K but now were just splitting hairs

It was the wifes daily driver for all those years. I respect that.

This car actually broke down getting it off the trailer when we made it back home, so right off the bat with the problems. Actually the crappy aftermarket Pertronix ignition module shorted. When we made it back home from Arizona it was late (about 8.5 hours one way with truck and trailer) and very cold. The owner said he didn't use coolant but distilled water, oh here we go again, so I couldn't leave it outside in the teens. My better half and I were both beat and so we thought well it should take about about 15 minutes to unstrap the car and drive it into the heated garage.

HAH, 3 hours later. I started the car on the trailer and let it warm up whilst we undid the straps and chains. We laid the ramps and I proceeded to release the parking brake I set on the trailer only to find the previous people didn't use it much and it was half stuck on and the brakes dragging. Well crap, off to a good start <rolling eyes>. With that I just figured I would overpower the parking brakes with the engine and proceeded to reverse off the trailer. No problems there. I shifted from reverse to drive and it just stalled. I cranked and cranked and cranked it and not a glimmer of a light off.

<sigh>

We couldn't push it because the brakes were dragging. It felt like someone just turned the key off, so I figured ignition, so after a brief diagnostic the crappy Pertronix just failed right then and there, the driver transistor was shorted on. I remembered I had an FE distributor replete with a functioning set of points and condenser somewhere in the parts reserve in a very cold storage garage. Eventually found it and proceed to replace the distributor for my old points spare in 15 degree weather. Eventually I did and it started and I drove it into the garage.

So I thought this would be different approach to owning and driving an old car, one that isn't so bad it's not in dire need of a complete tear down but one that could be mended along the way keeping the car drivable as much as possible.

I've been driving it around the subdivision making notes of everything I find wrong and boy oh boy it's a lot.

Here's the list so far of problems after two days:

1.) Charging system voltage low at idle, also it has the wrong alternator
2.) Clock doesn't work
3.) Radio only has one channel working, the FM stereo light occasionally works, AM sensitivity is really poor, FM seems fine.
4.) Glove box latch sticks
5.) Hazard switch doesn't flash the rear tail lamps
6.) Hissing noise from dash, when in heat mode, some air is coming out the dash main vents
7.) Wrong brake booster and doesn't hold vacuum.
8.) Transmission has shift kit and shifts hard. I don't like that so that will have to go.
9.) Every time it shifts there is a loud clunk from the rear axle. Cardan joints and or entire differential with gears are worn.
10.) Engine has low oil pressure (that's a given with near enough 300K miles, it's not a diesel).
11.) Parking brake sticks, needs new cables.
12.) Either the thermostat is stuck open or there is no thermostat as there is little to no heat.
13.) Needs a proper OEM electronic ignition system.
14.) The seller said it needs alignment of which I grew immediately suspicious and had a look and sure enough some clown put new strut rod bushings in and flipped the cupped washers around, so the bushings move around and so does the strut rods and the lower control arms. <rolling eyes>
15.) They replaced the front springs and the front end sits to high, needs original XL springs for FE, PS, and A/C installed.
16.) The right interior kick panel vent doesn't seem to be connected.
17.) The reupholstered front seats aren't done properly and the drivers seat especially rubs on the centre console, it will need another new set of proper seat covers.
18.) Hidden headlamp assembly is missing rubber bumpers and some hardware and is painfully slow to open and close. Will do an electric conversion. That's one old thing I don't mind upgrading.
19.) Back seat feels like the springs are broken or stretched.
20.) Needs new rear package tray liner, this one is carpeted.
21.) Has some tacky aluminum radiator, needs original brass copper one.
22.) Fan shroud is cracked.
23.) Has some hideous aftermarket flex fan that is about 3" smaller than the original fan. This needs to get tossed and the original clutch fan reinstalled.
24.) Someone installed an Edelbrock carb but plumbed it horribly.
25.) The seller had a new York compressor installed and changed one hose and the expansion valve, but since it still has the original receiver drier I bet it still has some mineral oil (R12) and the new compressor came with PAG (R134). Those two oils when mixed, heated and have some moisture in the system create an acid that attacks aluminum. That entire HVAC system will have to be dismantled, the evaporator and condenser inspected and flushed and everything else replaced. Probably a new proper brass copper heater core as well.
26.) The wiring in the car is very baked, it all needs to be replaced.
27.) Both torsion springs for the deck lid broke and need replacing.
28.) The floor shift feels loose and worn.
29.) There's an Edelbrock aluminum coolant pump, or in this case quite literally water pump, and I'm wondering if it's a high flow model. Seems out of place. If it is I will convert it back to a normal flow coolant pump as it's just wasting horsepower.
30.) The harmonic damper isn't correct, it has a later year part number code on it. Need to check TDC.
31.) The A/C idler pulley looks original and probably about to fail. Need to retrofit it with a replaceable one since these are discontinued.
32.) Wrong power steering pump

How's that for a short list :)

Now I knew ahead of time what I was getting into but someone else might look at this and would never realize all the problems it has and it would be ruinously expensive to take to an expert to sort it all out if you didn't know much about these cars or had access to parts cars with the correct parts on them.

The good news is I've relegated my junky '68 XL and junky '68 LTD as parts cars. My old XL whilst missing trim was 100% complete and original in the engine bay, so loads of hard to find correct parts to be had.

The plan is rather than take a part off the new XL and rebuild it/replace it, I will take it off one of the other parts cars and rebuild/refurbish it and then do a parts change on the new XL. This applies to everything from the clock to the engine.

The last spot of good news is I've been collecting parts, new and NOS for my old XL for years. I have boxes upon boxes of parts ready for this new XL as well.

So instead of my usual long boring posts on building a car up from a bare frame, this one will more spontaneous and dealing with individual problems and mending them whilst keeping the car drivable. Thought it might be something different.

Cheers
 

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Awesome find!!! What part of AZ was the XL found in?

Does LTD have the same fast back body style?
I would think LTD may have more chances of the AM-FM radio option
While 69 is nearly a different vehicle inside, is a '67 instrument panel the same?

And thanks for the detail. Love the "hoop" shifter.

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Discussion Starter #4
Awesome find!!! What part of AZ was the XL found in?

Does LTD have the same fast back body style?
I would think LTD may have more chances of the AM-FM radio option
While 69 is nearly a different vehicle inside, is a '67 instrument panel the same?

And thanks for the detail. Love the "hoop" shifter.

Action
Hi Action,

In 1968 the only full size models offered with that ramp of a fastback was the galaxie 500 and XL. This car was in the Phoenix area. In fact we stopped at the White Castle in Phoenix around lunch time, actually I was informed it was the only one in the state.

Regarding the AM-FM stereo for '68 full size, in all my perusing I've never seen a picture of someones 1968 with that option. Now-a-days AM-FM stereo is ubiquitous, but back then stereo was a big deal. I have seen a couple pictures of '65/'66's with the AM-FM radio (it's only monaural).

On the topic of 3rd generation dash layouts, the '65/'66 are virtually identical, the only difference I know of are the speaker holes, that's it. In 1967 Ford went off the rails and came up with a completely different different dash layout. The radio is out of the instrument panel top portion and moved down a bit in the dash. The '67's dash layout reminds me of GM styling. Obviously this must not have gone down to well with the top brass, because for '68 it was changed again and more closely resembles the '65'/'66's once more. I mean the car companies were nicking ideas from each other and stuff like that happens. Although Chrysler not so much they went off on their own weird tangent, often into never never land. :)

Cheers
 

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LOL

I am not a familiar with Ford products as to radios in the 1960s. I have seen a 1964 Galaxie with AM-FM. Have no clue if it was stereo. And FM in the 1960s was cutting edge.

For 1966 Lincoln, AM-FM was available and while not common, it isn't rare either. My 4 door convertible has AM-FM. I do not think it is stereo. But one could order a stereo tape deck as part of an AM radio. That would be AM - 8 track called Stereo-Sonic

I have a 66 Mercury AMFM that is not installed. I will have to find out if it is stereo.

I have owned 3 Galaxie/LTDs from the 1969 & 1970 model year. Long gone now. One had AM-FM and was stereo because it had a jewel light that would come on with stereo reception.

Been to the White Castle a number of times. There are two here and both in Scottsdale. I am from Michigan and there were many in the Detroit area. One of my high school classmates worked there and I frequented that location usually to get a free burger. The appeal is a little lost on me. If you are back in the area to pick u pa ride, let me know. Not afraid to lend a hand

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Discussion Starter #6
LOL

I am not a familiar with Ford products as to radios in the 1960s. I have seen a 1964 Galaxie with AM-FM. Have no clue if it was stereo. And FM in the 1960s was cutting edge.

For 1966 Lincoln, AM-FM was available and while not common, it isn't rare either. My 4 door convertible has AM-FM. I do not think it is stereo. But one could order a stereo tape deck as part of an AM radio. That would be AM - 8 track called Stereo-Sonic

I have a 66 Mercury AMFM that is not installed. I will have to find out if it is stereo.

I have owned 3 Galaxie/LTDs from the 1969 & 1970 model year. Long gone now. One had AM-FM and was stereo because it had a jewel light that would come on with stereo reception.

Been to the White Castle a number of times. There are two here and both in Scottsdale. I am from Michigan and there were many in the Detroit area. One of my high school classmates worked there and I frequented that location usually to get a free burger. The appeal is a little lost on me. If you are back in the area to pick u pa ride, let me know. Not afraid to lend a hand

Action
Hi Action,

Being from the upper Midwest as a kid White Castle was a thing, now, just like you, they have truly become the little gut bomb they are known for. I always thought the Whopper was a much better burger, well for fast food anyway.

I noticed the whole old car radio thing has made a resurgence in the past several years. Before that you could find old AM-FM radios for reasonable prices, and then it seemed like everyone who originally tossed their old OEM radios for the popular modern 2 knob back in the day now regrets it, the aftermarket 2 knob now looks cheesy and people want an original radio.

Ford didn't design their radios, they were usually Bendix, Philco or Motorola designed and made. Ford even bought Philco in the 60's, why? Dunno. Philco was always known as all style and no substance, kind of like Mopar. (ie looks great but cheaply/poorly made).

Even in the early 70's you could buy a Philco Ford colour television that has the Ford logo on it. In a way that's kind of neat to own a Ford television.

Back on the topic of the 1968 Ford XL fastback, there is another one on Fleece Bay right now 1968 XL Fastback that is pretty bad when you start to examine the pictures but is already going for a silly high price. You think my list is long on the one I bought I bet I can make a much longer list on this one and the price will be much higher to sort out.

The moment I see fresh paint and missing trim I really scrutinize it. This is a high probability that this is going to be a bondo bucket. Not to mention a very poorly executed exterior paint job and interior work. Oof! The interior assaults my optic nerves. Plus no bucket seat/centre console option with this one and no A/C. Have fun roasting in the summer with a mostly black interior.

Ok, nuff of my waffling.

Cheers
 

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I saw that one a day or two ago because of this thread. Yes the interior does cause optic nerve damage.
With over spray everywhere, it sure is shiny!
And is almost a base model with few if any options other than the engine, PS & PB and a am radio.
Beside being hot in the summer, stopping the beast with the drum brakes will keep the driver awake
And the ballast resistor on the right inner fender is a sign quality wiring comes with the deal

And like a light to a bug, shiny attracts and sells to the uninformed.
Same for the buzz words - "Numbers matching" and "two owner"


There is one thing that is interesting. Attached to each exhaust manifold is a pipe that does a loop and ends with a round knob like thing. Have no clue what that is unless it is some "fix" to what used to be the Thermactor system. If that guess is correct it may not be a NW ride, rather it may be a California ride. Just a guess.

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Discussion Starter #8
Air Con Pulleys

And it begins. This wasn't on my already lengthy list of things I found wrong, but I was just barbequing some steaks on the grill and since the grill is right by the garage I was looking over the engine compartment on the XL whilst waiting to flip the steaks. It was then I noticed the tensioner pulley assembly was replaced but it still was running an old idler pulley. That sent shivers down my spine. So next day I removed both the tensioner and the idler and sure enough the idler was on borrowed time. Whilst it spun, you could hear and feel the ball bearings and races were galled and there was just no lubricant in it. This was a few months from failure, especially a hot summer month with the A/C going.

With that I decided to take my spare idler pulley apart and see what I could do as it's different than the '65/'66 A/C pulleys for FE.

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This is the idler pulley and bracket off the '68 with FE. Ford really started to cheapen out even by '68. The bases are no longer nice cast iron machined bases, it's just a soft thick chunk of steel that's blanked, punched and stamped. However, Ford started using actual common Imperial/English size bearings and not the weirdo half metric half Imperial/English integrated bearings as on the '65/'66. On the '68 you can just pop the cover on the pulley off, remove the snap ring and press off the pulley, press out the old bearing and reassemble.

However I like my solution to simply unbolt the pulley from the bracket especially since the bracket is a bear to remove from the car. The '68 front dress is really cramped compared to the '65/'66.

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So this is kind of cheesy. The bracket is so soft they had to spline the shaft stub then stake it in to keep it fixed in place.

47871


deja vu.

I will not repeat the machining process to make your own pulley shafts as I have done in the past, for those interested please see here:
1965-1966 Ford A/C Idler and Tension Pulleys Rebuild for FE

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All that's left is cut down the other half of the shaft.

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I don't have the ability to spline (broach), instead I oversized about 0.003" for a tight press fit. 0.003" sounds like a lot but the splines will mush over and take up some of that space as well.

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It was a nice tight press.

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Then I staked the back side. I really had to wallop that shaft steel to get it to spread.

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That's the goal. Now they are really easy to service.

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These are really hard to get to sit flat as the stampings are by no means a machined surface.

47878


Continued in next post
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Air Con Pulleys Continued

This is an alternative method to measuring the correct height.

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47880


Now the tensioner.....

47881


Here's my beef with the aftermarket tensioners. The one on the left is the one I took off the XL. The one on the right is for the same application but these are the ones I've been buying for the '65/'66 pulleys. I just simply keep the pulley and toss the rest.

47882


These are the part numbers for the '68 with FE tensioner.

47883


My first problem is this. The bolt sticks out the back and this whole back needs to be flush. I wonder if the other brand they used had the same problem.

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guess so.

47885


Second problem I have with these. This is the tensioner, this is what put the tension and force on the A/C belt. That belt in turn pulls down and away on the pulley. There is sheer and tension all focused on the bolt and bracket threads. It's a small bolt in comparison. The idler pulley had that big honking bracket with a large press fit piece and the idler only slightly deflects the belt and there's not a lot of tension on that assembly. But this does.

Now the bolt is tempered, but the bracket isn't. It's soft low carbon steel. Time to bolster this.

47886


I'm going to enlarge the hole first.

47887


This is how I know this steel is soft, that step bit drilled through this like a hot knife in butter.

47888


I machined a shaft stub that's 0.002" oversize on diameter and 0.025" shorter in length on the back so it leaves a small pocket. I will TIG weld the backside after pressing it in and this will spread the load on the soft steel.

Continued in next post.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Air Con Pulleys Continued

47889


I just made two laps around the perimeter with the TIG welder. The slight recess gave the weld somewhere to flow with less filing. I then took a flat bastard file and ensured the back was more or less flat.

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47891


47892


Those pulleys have the cheapest bearings in them when you buy them. I replaced them with Timkens.

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Done and installed.

Now I don't have to worry about the idler locking up and burning the A/C belt or worse having the idler fly off and taking out the fan and possibly the radiator.

Good grief, I never want to see another pulley again, at least all 3 Fords are done now. :)

On a positive note after installing the pulleys I did try the air conditioner and much to my surprise it worked. The low side frosted and the high side was warm. It still could be low on charge as it was a cool day, but I'll still take it as a win. At least something works on the car.

More to come.

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Rear Track Bar (Panhard Bar)

The car feels like the chassis is attached to the wheels via licorice. Whilst the car looks nice it's not fun to drive. In fact after I stood on the side near the back of the car and oscillated the body laterally and watched the wheel rim with respect to the body and not only did is mostly stay put there was a really loud knocking noise. 3 guesses if you need them, well especially with the title of this one.

The axle is loose laterally with respect to the chassis and just floats around. It's nerve racking to drive. After I found that I parked it till it was fixed.

At first I thought it was an axle bearing or something funky with the axle internals but I crawled underneath and watched the track bar as I grabbed the fuel tank and shook the car. The bushings are annihilated.

I have a spare track bar, so I stripped and painted it and ordered some generic bushings as the bushings for this application are long discontinued.

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These are the part number I found work best. You do have to do a little modifying, but what else is new.

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The bushings are for a deeper mount. So you have sand, mill, or grind the excess off in the middle. You don't have to have to have them perfect, in fact you want a little gap in the middle so they compress normally when tightened and it also give a little spot to house the grease.

47896


The ground down ones on the left.

47897


The bushings are also too long, so either cut that down or use the original sleeves if they are intact as it save's time.

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Grease with Teflon.

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Replacement track bar all ready for installation.

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The old one out of the XL.

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47902


The bushings, dare I call them that, were rock hard. There is no elasticity left in them. In fact they crumble when you touch them. It's like they are trying to revert back to carbon. There's the source of the knocking noise.

47903


This is how I changed it. Used the trans jack to lift up the axle to undo the shocks then lower minding the hydraulic brake hose and parking brake cable until I could just grab the coil springs out. The less stuff in the way the easier it is to move the axle around to get the refurbished track bar into position.

Continued in next post
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Rear Track Bar (Panhard Bar) Continued

47904


Looks like the original coil springs. It has the paint marks on the other side to identify them. I wish they would not have changed the front coil springs as the car sits too high in front.

Since the car was in the air for the first time I took this opportunity to examine the rest of the undercarriage.

47905


Oh look the nice Edelbrock coolant pump is leaking and it had antifreeze in it at one time. What a shocker Edelbrock leaking. Good thing I ordered a standard new Wells coolant pump to replace this. The cooling system is next on this as all the parts should be delivered this weekend. The car has no heat and the engine runs cold.

47906


The front steering has loads of play. It looks like all the critical components were replaced sand a rebuild a on the steer gear, it's just dripping. I would wager heavily the Pitman shaft bushing is worn inside the case and possibly the rack and worm assembly as well. But it does have a newer Pitman arm on it. Those are only available by Rare Parts so kudos to the previous owner on that one.

47907


He had the heavier duty sintered bearing idler installed. Again well done.

47908


The ball joints and tie rods are also replaced and it looks like the front bushings as well. I see Moog on the dust covers of the tie rods. Again top notch parts.

47909


Here's something I can't wait to replace. That transmission. It's clearly a rebuilt unit ( I found a tag on it) and has that damn shift kit in it. It's really annoying to drive. Someone please help me understand why a transmission has to shift uncomfortably hard?!

47910


What a shocker the rear mount is missing the safety brace.

47911


Rear hose needs replacing (cracking).

47912


Well the rest of the rear axle bushings are obliterated, this one is trying to escape its can. The other side of the can is rubbing on the frame... nice..

47913


The other ones aren't doing that much better. The lower control arm bushings are crumbling as well. I took it out for a test drive after the track bar was replaced and it's much better. However hard acceleration you still just feel the axle moving around. The rest of the control arm bushing need replacing. Let me clarify something, when I say hard acceleration, I mean as much as this tired cheesy, Y code, low factory horsepower 390 can generate and it isn't much.

Continued in next post.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Rear Track Bar (Panhard Bar) and Under Car Inspection

When we first bought this and we knew it was a basket case of sorts, I thought maybe this is the better way to go as you can still drive the car and fix it as you go.

Now I'm starting to think --> no.

47914


This is the way to go. This is a much better and easier approach. This takes longer to do, but it's all done, ready and raring to go with many years of trouble free service other than the usual maintenance. Still an FE, just brought into the 21st century.

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I will say one thing about this XL. This is the least rusty 3rd gen I've seen in original form and certainly the least rusty one I've owned.

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47916


The little bit of surface corrosion is so light it wipes off with your finger.

More to come.

Cheers
 

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The construction of this chassis is nearly identical to the next gen full sized FM and was used on the Mark III/Thunderbird.

Question - there is a rubber bumper in the frame arch over the rear axle. Have you found a replacement for that? Or are yours still good or you make them?
That bumper is not the same on smaller chassis. (Mid-size and compact) And was used on a lot of vehicles over a long time.

Action
 

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Discussion Starter #15
The construction of this chassis is nearly identical to the next gen full sized FM and was used on the Mark III/Thunderbird.

Question - there is a rubber bumper in the frame arch over the rear axle. Have you found a replacement for that? Or are yours still good or you make them?
That bumper is not the same on smaller chassis. (Mid-size and compact) And was used on a lot of vehicles over a long time.

Action
Hello Action,

To partially answer your question, yes there is a rubber bumper over the rear axle centre. I dunno about the integrity, I would assume just like every other rubber part on the car it's baked to oblivion. I haven't tried to find one yet, but if I cannot then I would probably turn to Energy Suspensions and look through their generic line of bump stops and most likely modify one of theirs to fit properly.

Cheers
 

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There is on on the left and right frame rail. So each car has two. All of your 3rd Gen full size FLM will have them.
Fourth Gen full size FLM uses the identical bump stop as does Thunderbird & Mark III

For the rear axle there is a third bumper which is all together different. Sometimes mounted on the front of the 9". In your panhard posts it is shown mounted to a plate on the frame crossmember. That one is reproduced. The ones on the frame rails is not

Your assessment of baked to oblivion is unfortunately rather accurate. I have a couple out of 8, the rubber is gone only leaving the metal plate bolted to the frame.

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Discussion Starter #17
Pandoras Box - Cooling and electrical, well mostly.

I thought my next round of parts infusion should be towards the cooling system as there's no heat when it's cold outside and some heat when it's warm.

Here's a run down of parts I'm replacing:

47969


47970


47971


47972


47973


47974


Now this is a used original radiator I'm trying to clean out. I flushed it out with water till it came out clear then boiled up 3 gallons of vinegar and filled the radiator up twice after letting each round soak for 10 minutes and this trail of sediment poured out of the radiator.

47975


That was a lot of stuff, it's a trail all the way down the pad. Tis very clean on the inside now.

47976


That's the fan shroud and fan blade off my XL parts car.

47977


3rd gens do not have an overflow tank, you simply do not fill the radiator all the way up. There is a note stamped into the radiator where to fill when cold. This is some tacky cheap overflow thing and will be removed.

Continued in next post.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Pandoras Box - Cooling and electrical, well mostly continued

47978


Big tacky Griffen expensive aluminum radiator with too small a direct drive flex fan.

47979


47980


This is the original Ford copper brass radiator. I am a little concerned using it because it's 53 years old, but sadly it's in much better shape than the aftermarket aluminum thing as we shall see. The direct replacement for this 3 row radiator is about 800 dollars and the double density version is around 900 dollars.

47981


All the fins are intact, there's no degradation I can see, it's clean and didn't leak when it was in the '68 LTD for a couple years. For a 53 year old radiator it's in seemingly good shape.

47982


Although I did get into an argument with the original petcock. I didn't like what it had to say.

47983


So the receipt for this 800 dollar radiator said direct fit...... Ummmmmmmmm no.

47984


Hell no. Plus they had to bend the original upper bracket. This is why I prepped the other one. It's unmolested.

47985


I couldn't take the suspense anymore, there's a mystery module found the other week. It's some crazy voltage regulator with those fins and die-cast housing. I mean that was expensive to make. Oh but wait, there's the Ford voltage regulator right where it should be also and it's also connected... What the hell, yes there's dueling voltage regulators still connected. <shaking head>

Oh and do you also like the dueling vacuum cans. The big one is the cars original and disconnected, that smaller one does not belong on the car. <rolling eyes>

47986


There's extraneous wiring coming off the back of the alternator, there's that harness for the "other" voltage regulator and must disturbing of all is the wiring looks like it's from an American Flyer train set.

47987


The wiring is so bad on this car.

Continued in next post.
 

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Pandoras Box - Cooling and electrical, well mostly, continued

47988


Here's another example. The wire for the compressor clutch is about 12" long. In that short span, it's been spliced together twice and has a scotch lock thing attached to it.

47989


Here's the other voltage regulator that was still connected.

47990


That "other" voltage regulator is spliced into the charging harness with the factory non-stick tape. This was done a long, long, long time ago. What's the point of 2 voltage regulators?! I also do not recognize the front case of that alternator. Could be just coincidence. I know there was a 65 amp Leece Neville alternator option, but that's neither the correct alternator case style nor voltage regulator case style.

Back to engine "FUN", err I mean ROT

47991


Oh god, if the rest of the engine looks like this on the inner cooling jackets, no wonder why it has all sorts of problems. There is a thermostat in there, however it's stuck open. So either it's a regular thermostat and it just failed, or it's an all crudded up regular thermostat, or it's a fail safe thermostat locked in the safety position (open). My money is on the crud option.

47992


And this is precisely why I ABHOR aluminum radiators. I have replaced more aluminum radiators for this reason that I ever had to replace brass copper ones. This radiator has more corrosion than the entire car does.

47993


And it's in stereo.... Both lower sides are rotting away.

Oh goody I can't wait to take off the coolant pump, I bet there's all sorts of unpleasant things in there.

I should mention that's not antifreeze, it's some kind of additive that guy used with water. It doesn't smell like antifreeze (glycol) nor feel like it. It feels like water, plus it stinks. Probably is just water with food colouring for all I know.

The adventure continues...

Cheers
 

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Interesting find.

There is a transistorized voltage regulator used from 1965 to 1967 with a 53 amp Leece-Neville alternator. Production installed.
And a second transistorized voltage regulator with a kit used from 1966 to 1968 with a 53, 60 or 65 amp Leece-Neville alternator or a 42 amp Autolite alternator. Consists of a regulator and a wiring harness. This would be dealer installed or sold over the parts counter.

All of the above data is from the MPC. No notation of Delco Remy as a vendor

Which one is connected to the alternator?

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