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852 Posts
Discussion Starter · #41 ·
Sorting It Out - Continued.


You can see where it was pried on.


Donor pulley stripped painted and installed along withe A/C idler and tensioner pulleys.


I rebuilt this alternator several years ago and it's been on that parts car sitting outside as it used to run, but is now getting parted out and going away soon. One less eyesore.


This works seemingly well in the parts car, even a low chugging 500 RPM it would hold battery voltage at 14.5 volts. But I want to go through it even though the bearing feel like brand new.


I was going to use the entire harness but rodents attacked it, so I'll make a new harness for the XL.


The XL's and parts car both taken apart for inspection.


The one I rebuilt still used the '66 stator and there isn't much insulation used originally, the stator in the XL's is a better stator. However the rest of the XL's alternator was not so good, the bearings were dry and galled, the plastic insulator just shattered like glass and the rotors slip ring is heavily gouged. The only other good part is the radio frequency interference capacitor was good.


Original '66 stator.


The newer stator from the XL has better insulation and I will use this along as it passes the short and inductance tests.


I'm going to use the main bridge rectifier from the one I rebuilt as the XL's insulators just broke apart on its. However I feel the need to enhance the copper traces for higher current by applying and building up solder on them.

Continued in next post.

852 Posts
Discussion Starter · #42 ·
I believe the original fuel line went around the back side of the distributor

Hi Action,

I referenced a picture to my parts XL with the same engine and it was routed just like this and it had the factory flare on the end for the hose to the Autolite fuel filter so I modeled this on that. Now interestingly the fuel line on there they had bent (can see old kinks they induced) the original line and went around the distributor and right over the hold down bolt. It was very aggravating to get that out the night we brought it home and it died and I had to switch distributors because the Pertronix ignition died right there.

My old XL parts car was all original when it was delivered and not monkeyed with. I did get it running. It has the same Y code 390 with A/C.




852 Posts
Discussion Starter · #43 ·
Sorting It Out - Continued


After the solder fest I checked the diodes one last time. All is well.


To desolder/solder the stator wires onto the bridge, you need a high wattage gun.


Checking the stator for shorts to the lamination's.


To check for winding to winding short, you can use a growler (old school) or an inductance meter and check between phases.


This RFI capacitor is good.


This one is totally dead.


The newer stator didn't have long enough leads to reach the other bridge rectifier so I had to extend them.


First, strip off the varnish, then make a good mechanical crimp, then solder.




The bridge is prepped.

Continued in next post.

852 Posts
Discussion Starter · #44 ·
Sorting It Out - Continued


Soldered to stator.


Brushes are loaded and the stator and bridge is installed.


A little fresh bearing grease in the rear bearing.




There's one good alternator from two of them and it's the 60 amp version in the early and appropriate 1G case style.


To make a new harness, this is what I have. I do have a plan for the entire electrical system that would include fuses for the charging system as I don't care for fusible links, but that's a bit off into the future and for now I will use two inline fuses. One 80 amp for the main charge B+ lead and a 7.5 amp for the field and voltage regulator feed.


This is all GXL wire and I shall make the harness tomorrow. This is where I left off.

More to come.


852 Posts
Discussion Starter · #45 · (Edited)
Sorting It All Out - Continued

Have done some more work to the XL.


Making the harness for the alternator. The ends are crimped and soldered.


Then heat shrink is used. The first layer is polyolefin with inner melt (internal glue that seals the connection). The second layer of heat shrink is again polyolefin or PVC if I have it in that size. PVC is a tough abrasion resistant heat shrink. My apologies for the blurry picture camera focused on the wire bundle instead.


Coming together. I decided against the boots as they were either side ways or somewhat up-side-down. This could trap water and hold it against the terminal, so best to leave it open to air.


The ground wire mimics the original. In this case I used 8 gauge for the eyelet on the alternator and that goes to the big eyelet where another 14 gauge black wire joins up and that back tracks to the regulator with the rest of the wires.


I made mine in the spirit of the original '68 charging harness.


Alternator mounting brackets and hardware.


Here it is mounted and the wires are away from the block and can't abrade on it.


I'll finish up the other end of the harness later as there are other things that need to be mended first.

The front dress is complete once more. I will say this '68 FE front dress is hokey. It's cumbersome and overly complicated and a bit on the cheap side. The '65/'66 FE front dress is so much nicer.

To segue onto the next item, one of these pulleys is not like the other..... The A/C pulley needs to have its bearing changed as even though it feels smooth I can hear the ball bearings moving around. That can't be good.


To remove the centre bolt holding the clutch assembly onto the shaft of the York 210 you can apply the tool into the three holes in the clutch shoe. But if you don't have the tool, you can apply 12 volts to the clutch (assuming it works) and hold the outer pulley.

Continued in next post.

852 Posts
Discussion Starter · #46 ·
Sorting It All Out - Continued


Or you can just wrap the belt around the pulley if the bolt is stubborn for more holding power.


Once the centre bolt is out you can use a 5/8" coarse thread bolt to screw in and this will pop the clutch assembly off the shaft of the York.


I'm pretty sure that oil seal was originally a bright reddish orange. But I digress. To remove first the clutch shoe has to be pressed out. With that remove the outside snap ring first then carefully press out.


Next there is an inside spiral snap ring surrounding the bearing, remove that and press the bearing out, be careful as there is metal shield in front of the bearing so don't press on it, press on the inner race.


Easy peasy.


Yup, the grease is hard as a rock and that seal is cooked.


New bearing part number.


Whilst I was waiting for paint to dry I fixed this. This was hanging like this between the condenser and radiator and it's partially blocking air flow. The lack of detail and attention from the previous people working on this car is just appalling.


The order to assemble is really simple. Only thing this time you can press on the outer race to install the bearing in the clutch hub and not the inner race. Don't forget to install the bearing shield first.


Once pressed in, install the spiral snap ring, then on the clutch shoe slide the spacer down the snout and press that in and you want to support the inner race only on the bearing when pressing that in, let the hub float.

Continued in next post.

852 Posts
Discussion Starter · #47 ·
Sorting It All Out - Continued


Install the snap ring and spin the clutch shoe, there should be no binding or rubbing and the bearing should be quiet and smooth.


The clutch coil. This is the one with the jenky wire on it. I cut it close to the coil assembly and crimped a soldered a new piece of 14 gauge GXL to it, then heat shrink with inner melt polyolefin with inner melt and then a PVC heat shrink jacket over that for durability.


The epoxy top seal was all cracked, so I applied a layer of RTV to keep moisture and oil out of the windings.


I ran the wire out the side rather than the top as it looks neater.


Again you can apply the clutch electrically and use the V-Belt to hold the pulley whilst tightening. I had to resort to holding the pulley with the V-Belt in my hand as I originally just put the belt on and tightened it and in trying to tighten the small bolt I was turning the engine over pretty easily. <rolling eyes> that engine is so worn out.


At least the belts were newer and in good shape. This is the quick test, flex them in the other direction like so, if they split or show signs of cracks toss em. These are good.


I cleaned all the sludge off with Pinesol. They almost look brand new.

Next I tackled the vacuum portion of the HVAC system as that is a royal mess.


Just a recap but they, whoever they were, didn't use the original vacuum can and installed another smaller one. Good grief. How about we fix the original one and ditch the dodgy add-ons cluttering up this engine bay. After all it's a can there isn't too much that can go wrong.


Usually this leak around the centre nipple cap. But this can was blowing bubbles around the top and bottom with a few PSI of air injected into it and sprayed with Windex. Here's the crack on the top side and it looks like someone already soldered another crack sometime in the past.


Since all my soldering stuff was still on the bench it seemed rather fortuitous. Now since I sandblasted the steel I used regular stay clean PCB flux and solder. That will only work on really clean steel. Wire brushing will not clean it well enough. For a lesser clean prep you would have to use acid core solder.

Continued in next post.

852 Posts
Discussion Starter · #48 · (Edited)
Sorting It All Out - Continued


Did the bottom and sandblasted again the whole thing to prep for paint.


The can held this vacuum for 5 minutes. I'd say Mr. Coffee can is fixed and ready for use.


So they ran the vacuum lines with the wiring harness and zip tied it to the holes reserved for the apron splash shields that are missing. I will route the vacuum lines between the outer wing and inner apron and get them out of sight. But first I need to fix the rest of the HVAC vacuum system. There are two noticeable vacuum leaks under the dash and vents do not switch fully when selecting a heat function as it blows out on the floor and dash registers.


Since the engine is not ready for running, I attached my refrigerant vacuum pump to the HVAC supply line and let it run. Now before I used the electric pump I did use the hand pump and checked the coolant valve, it held vacuum so that's good, I checked the new looking vacuum servo on the mode door and that pulled in and held vacuum. I then tested the heating thermostat and it looked new. Well it's pretty obvious it's an NOS part as it works perfectly and these are always leaky on a used one as they need to be carefully taken apart and cleaned. So I was pleasantly surprised that all that is in good order. Now onto and into the dash area.


There are three vacuum servos on the inside. I removed the glove box liner for access to the top two. The one on the left selects in heat mode only between the floor or defrost vents. Spring loaded default is floor. The one on the right works in conjunction with the one out of picture to select between fresh air and recirculate.


The other one is here. These two servos are connected together and default spring loaded is recirc mode.


Here's a better view. So I tested all three with the hand pump and this one leaks past 5-7" vacuum. This is one hissing sound I'm hearing.


As a tangent this cracks me up, modern cars have between 2-3 dozen fuses. These 3rd gens have 5, just 5. Granted there are two circuit breakers in the headlamp switch but still....

Back to the matter at hand

Since the interior vacuum servos are not reproduced, going to have to raid my stash of 3rd gen factory A/C parts.


All spares.


Continued in next post.

852 Posts
Discussion Starter · #49 ·
Sorting It All Out - Continued


First one I pillaged works a treat, holds vacuum.

So I replaced that and turned on the vacuum, now it's quiet on heat but on defrost I hear another leak right under the dash selector.


The hose is just hard so I replaced it.


Even though the selector wasn't leaking I smeared Red Rubber Grease around it and worked it with the vacuum full on. Any minute leaks will pull the grease in and help lube the selector and the Rubber Grease will not hurt rubber parts. Then wipe the excess off.

Now all the vents work as they should and no vacuum leaks. The coolant valve has full vacuum when selected full hot.


The check valve in this can is MIA so I added a large capacity in line one.


The can and hoses are installed and connected.


Now I peeled the wiring back but HVAC lines are all connected and it looks much neater.


All this wiring is extra crispy so it all needs to be replaced. I shall splice into the main section by the booster and bring out new wires. However instead running the main B+ feed, starter and ALT lamp wires across the firewall and down the apron I am going to run them with the headlamp harness in between the drivers side outer wing and apron then across the radiator support bulkhead and over to the battery and starter solenoid to make for a cleaner engine bay.

More to come...


852 Posts
Discussion Starter · #50 ·
More Engine Bay Madness

A little more work to this car. So the wiring harness needs to be replaced and when I saw wiring harness I mean everything. But for now I was able to trim it back to sections of wire that didn't break when bent 180 sharply. This was near the booster. Since there aren't really any wiring harness I could find for the '68 with options (air con) I am going to temporarily mend this one as a stop gap measure to keep the car from burning itself to the ground.


I'm going to start with the main feed line bundle which includes the main B+ feed, the starter relay activate, "ALT" warning lamp, and ignition resistor bypass. I am going to delete the ignition resistor bypass wire as this is getting electronic ignition. Well technically it had electronic ignition originally, but then the crappy Pertronix died and I went back to a points distributor temporarily.


These large crimp sleeves come in handy for large gauge wire. After crimping I soldered them.


Then of course I used heat shrink.


As a side note I straightened all the fins on the condenser.


That main feed, "ALT" lamp and starter wire were taped and run across the header over to the battery area.


Since that wire bundle was run, I could put the radiator back in.


And the fan, shroud and then tighten the V belts.


Now for the heater hoses I needed something to keep them together and suspended for a bit. I hate plastic zip ties, but until I change the heater core and remaining two hoses of which I'll use Adel clamps to support them I decided on a stainless zip tie. But to keep the sharp edge of the stainless from cutting into the hoses over time I used industrial grade PVC heat shrink. That stuff is really tough.


Now you have to measure your loop before hand and cut the PVC to the correct length then heat shrink.


Once you do that, fold over once to help lock it in place then fold the edge squarely over and crimp tightly with pliers. This rounds off the edge and you won't cut yourself on it. Unlike those crappy plastic ones.

Continued in next post

852 Posts
Discussion Starter · #51 ·
More Engine Bay Madness Continued


For a zip tie it's not to bad like this. Being stainless it'll resist corrosion mostly and it will not harden and shatter like old cooked plastic zip ties (aka zap straps). They'll last a really long time.



New radiator cap. I guess Stant bought out Motorad. I ordered three of these and they all are the same.


Overflow tube is connected. Just remember there is supposed to be no overflow tank. You simply do not fill the radiator up all the way. There is a mark on the tank to fill cold.


Slowly coming together.


The sheet metal screws holding the starter relay down were stripped so this was loose. Well there's a potential no crank problem. I just drilled for 1/4 and used stainless nuts and screws.


Here's my protection for basically the entire car. One 80 amp MAXI for the cabin feed (whole car), another 80 amp MAXI for the main charge lead from the alternator to the battery. Now even though the alternator is 60 amps, since these fuses are thermal and running a 60 amp fuse whilst pulling close to 60 amps on a hot day in a hot engine compartment can make it open. So whilst 80 is more than ideally the alternator can put out, it will protect against reversed battery leads or a reversed jump start as when reversed the bridge in the alternator will act like a short and the 80 amp fuse should pop before the individuals diodes in the alternator do.

The smaller ATO is a 7.5 amp for the voltage regulator and field current.


This is slowly coming together. However I noticed the starter main feed isn't supported by the clamp normally under the exhaust manifold.



Yup, that starter lead is just floating around between a moving control arm and a hot manifold. More crappy bodge jobs to come.

Continued in next post.

852 Posts
Discussion Starter · #52 ·
More Engine Bay Madness Continued


Fortunately I have spares but this is what the clamp should look like to secure the starter main feed wire. It attaches to the top engine mount bolt.


Well crap it's not there but what's more disturbing is the lower bolt is MIA. To make matters worse the hole isn't lined up with the block on the lower hole. Just super....

I just refinished one of the above clamps.


I did eventually get the bracket installed and the lower bolt. I had to jack up the entire engine (loosening the fan shroud first) with a trans-jack and soft would under the oil pan. However once all three bolts were in the engine the mount stud was off on the perch slot. With that I had to loosen the transmission mount and cross member and then grab the tail shaft and pull it to the passenger side, then the engine mount lined up with the perch and simply tightened the transmission back down as there was room in the bolts holes back there to make that happen.

I can surmise when the previous owner took it in to have the transmission replaced with a slam gears-o-matic rebuild unit they replaced the engine mounts and then were too lazy and or incompetent to do the job right. This is exactly why I will not let anyone touch one of our vehicles.

Needless to say this was another 2 hours to sort out.


Once the starter lead was routed correctly I started wiring this corner. Here I have the voltage regulator socket done and just need to add a connector for the RFI capacitor.


Standard makes a bunch of different RFI caps. For a brief look, go to Rock Auto under the part number search tab, then type in " RC* " and select Standard as the manufacturer. You'll get a nice list of all the RFI caps Rock Auto sells.


Here this corner is all wired up. Even though the voltage regulator is electronic and has the field flyback diode, it still switches the field on and off many times a second and that RFI cap is still needed to help reduce noise. It was missing on the original cluster of two voltage regulators. <rolling eyes>


Installed the fuses. Since there was already a hole drilled for that idiotic second vacuum can I decided to capitalize on it and use an Adel clamp to hold the fuses. I tucked them under the wing as they are a bit out of place. But still easy enough to access should it be warranted.


I can now leave a battery connected without too much fear of angry electron reprisal.

Continued in next post.

852 Posts
Discussion Starter · #53 ·
More Engine Bay Madness Continued

Since now the starter, main feed, and charging system were all connected time to move onto another harness that needs attention. That is the HVAC harness.


Whilst it should seem pretty straight forward to cut the bad wiring back to a less bad section, splice in new wiring and add connectors. It's not that simple because.......................


All this was in one of the centre console compartments. Now this means the previous owner had a fetish about factory air con blower switches or the car was going through them at an alarming rate. I say it was the latter.

I know 3rd gens don't use a high speed blower relay like even some other old cars do. But I doubt it's a switch problem. What are the odds the blower is over current but not by a whole lot to blow the fuse? I'd wager a lot. It does work, albeit noisily.


With that I decided to remove all the trouble makers to inspect. And yes that blower wheel is a bit hard to turn.


That's a lot of lint on the blower resistor. You can see where it was just burning the stuff to close to it. Nice.....


I didn't remove the cooling thermostat as I dare not risk rupturing the capillary tube as they are usually filled with refrigerant and once ruptured they need to be replaced. But I did check it and it is closed. Still doesn't mean it will regulate temperature correctly but it's a start.


I walnut blasted the blower resistor. What a difference. Next to it is the clutch A/C mode switch. It opens the switch to shut off the compressor clutch in heat mode (floor or defrost).


These really aren't sealed all that well and the contact can get grungy. Also the contacts on the wafer board can loosen to the terminals.


I soldered the loose rivets so the clutch doesn't get intermittent.


I walnut blasted the guts with the exception of the wafer board with contacts. That I sand blasted.



Continued in next post.

852 Posts
Discussion Starter · #54 · (Edited)
More Engine Bay Madness Continued


I used synthetic grease and if the viscosity gets too thick I used a little Tri-Flow to thin it out.



Released and the switch is open.


For my hands free picture taking fixture, when depressed the switch is closed.

Now onto the blower motor.


Yuppers the blower motor is full of lint and the bushings have no lubricity left in them.


Interestingly the commutator is really worn but the brushes have virtually no wear. They are semi-metallic brushes but they are way too hard for this application.


Cut the commutator down to a smooth flat surface. The brushes really did a number on it.


Installed the brush assembly and lubed the front bushing.


Assembled the brushes.

Continued in next post.

852 Posts
Discussion Starter · #55 ·
More Engine Bay Madness Continued


I tested this with no blower wheel and it spun up very fast and had a good wind down. Much easier to turn by hand now.


Cleaned and painted the blower wheel as well.


The motor cooling hose was in surprisingly good shape. Very pliable.



Before putting all this back on I cleaned all the lint and other debris out of the plenum. Now I can wire this up.


I reused all the connectors except the single post one. That was partially melted and then shattered into a million pieces trying to get it off the blower resistor. For new terminals I bought Packard/Delphi type 56 terminals. They click into the these housings.


Above is the old and new body to engine ground. I think you can tell which is the old one. I did change the location of the body ground to the stud and nut for the brake lever assembly. It's a much tighter bond than a sheet metal screw.


I finished up the HVAC and did the engine harness as well. I connected the "HOT', "COLD" and "OIL" lamps up and now they all work. I verified operation of the "HOT" lamp wiring at the connector as the "HOT" lamp may illuminate when cranking but that's just proves the bulb out, it does not prove the wiring, connector or sender. And that's the sender I did the temperature testing on, so I know when the "COLD" lamps goes out and when the "HOT" lamps lights temperature wise. But now I have an "OIL" lamp that works as it was inoperative.

For the ignition feed, I went under the dash and painstakingly disconnected the resistance wire and bypassed it with a 15 amp inline fuse to the ignition switch. Now the coil gets full B+. I also tapped off this with a 3 amp ATO fuse for the electric choke.


I also made a stainless loop to connect the choke pull off air sample to the air horn fitting so it can draw filtered air in and not clog up the choke pull off. I also made a little nipple fitting for the ported vacuum.


Now for an electronic ignition. So I bought a World Products 1976 FE Duraspark distributor, however the pickup coils on these are crappy, this one is already problematic. So I bought a WVE (Wells) brand pickup. I also have an adjustable vacuum advance and a timing curve kit.

Continued in next post.

852 Posts
Discussion Starter · #56 ·
More Engine Bay Madness Continued


Since the slots are unmarked I have to remove this and measure them to determine maximum centrifugal advance. Turns out the wide slot measures close to the normal 13L slot. This should yield 26 degrees of advance. This plus initial timing of 8-12˚ should be in the range of happy for this worn out old slug.


Glad I had to take this out to measure as the shaft was bone dry, they never lubed this. This is why you have to examine brand new parts very thoroughly. You are just setting yourself up for failure if you just install them out of the box.


I put the light springs in and that should give full advance around 2600 RPM.


Now there is a problem with the Wells (WVE) brand pickup in the Worl Parts distributor and that is it's a bit loose on the fulcrum. The extra play could lead to the reluctor wheel rubbing on the laminated core on the pickup coil. I use a shim to take up the slack. I use a shim from the rocker shafts. Ignore the 0.060" package, the shim that works is a 0.015" thick shim. I do have to enlarge the centre hole a bit.


Everything installed.

For giggle-snorts I decided to take apart the distributor the car came with.


This had the aftermarket Pertronix thing that died.


There's not much of a heat sink on this. I bet it runs on the hot side, especially sinking current from big aftermarket coils.


When I removed the vacuum advance I tested it. The diaphragm is blown, so it didn't have any vacuum advance. Then I went to see how hard those springs were and the mechanical advance will not move. All the lube is gone and it's tarred into place. So it had no mechanical advance either.

Let's just recap here, the camshaft was 20+ degrees retarded, there's no mechanical or vacuum advance and there were/still are vacuum leaks. Well no wonder why it had overheating problems..... What a joke.


The wide cap adapter set.


I am going to use for now the GM 4 pin module as it auto adjusts dwell time to keep the coil from overheating at lower RPM's. I'll see how well this works, if it don't like I'll buy the red grommet (California emissions) Duraspark controller as it requires no resistance wire, unlike the blue grommet ones because the red one also varies dwell. I'm relocating the controller to the wing so I am making a long harness. The twisted wire is the coil pickup signal.

Continued in next post.

852 Posts
Discussion Starter · #57 ·
More Engine Bay Madness Continued


I thought I would try a different brand of wire set. I also bought reproductions Ford rocker cover plug wire holders that snap on to the top as the old ones shattered.


I had to shorten two plug wires but other wise they fit ok.


Here's the ignition controller and RFI cap to use.


It'll go over here somewhere.

More to come.


852 Posts
Discussion Starter · #58 ·
And Now for Something Completely Different - Clock

I thought a change of pace would be nice so I've been working on the clock as well. Here's that. This is a 1968 clock, which is visually a little different than the 1966, but has mostly the same innards.


I forgot to take a picture of it before I took it all apart.


I liberated the clock from this pile. Interestingly it was disconnected when I removed it and I thought that odd.

These clocks are usually just dead, the failure modes I've seen are the points are so worn and sputtered material all over the gear set it seizes the gear set. The points can break from fatigue of getting slapped hard every 20 or seconds on the electric winder. Another failure point is the winder coils self burn up on a low battery. So the coils are meant to be very intermittent, they draw a fair amount of current to produce a strong magnetic field. When you leave the car unattended for long periods or leave a light on and the battery drains, the battery voltage gets to a point where the winder can slap the mainspring to wind it and the coils stay on. Even on reduced battery voltage they burn up.

This clock however had an interesting failure mode. I connected it to the lab supply and it instantly started chattering away and the minute hand was racing around the face. Kind of amusing actually.


The gear that couples the mainspring to the flywheel and hairspring broke the shaft and the gear cocked over and let the mainspring bypass the time keep and it just rocketed the hands around on the electromagnet winder.

The gear set on the bottom are the bad ones. The shaft broke on the left one but it rubbed on the teeth of its mating gear and deformed those.


Times like this you need another parts clock. I have collected several of these.


You can tell the suns been at the minuted hand and somewhat the hour hand as they are faded.


No problem :)


Easy to paint in the bowl, some lacquer thinner cleans the paint right off the glass.


I've covered this in greater detail on my other posts on the 66 gal 500 XL and the 66 LTD posts I have but I build the point contacts back up with silver solder and file flat best as I can.


Same with this side.


The points set that make contact to auto wind.

Continued in next post.

852 Posts
Discussion Starter · #59 · (Edited)
And Now for Something Completely Different - Clock Continued


The reason why the points arc so badly is the inductive flywheel effect when the high current is interrupted. It creates an arc that blows ions off the points and coats the gear set eventually. One way to stop that is solder on a high speed diode across the coil. That way it drastically reduces arcing and makes the points last much much longer.


That's where it needs to be connected. Now soldering on that big brass lug takes a lot of heat and that diode is going to get too hot trying to solder so once it's soldered, take a can of air duster, invert it to get liquid refrigerant out and let it dribble on the stud to cool it quickly as possible so the diode doesn't over heat.


The plastic window has seen better days, it's all hazed up and scratched.


10 minutes on the polisher and it almost looks brand new.


Mostly back together.


Once it's assembled I apply liberally Tri-Flow oil to the parts then take the can of air duster and blow all the excess oil off the gear train.


I also clean out the shell so the light can reflect properly.


Back in the case.


Continued in next post.

852 Posts
Discussion Starter · #60 ·
And Now for Something Completely Different - Clock Continued


The bulb that was in there was a #53 and the clock wasn't terribly bright.


I put an #1816 in and that looks pretty darn good at night.


Now with the lamp lit I let the clock run in the lab for a couple of days to break in the replacement parts and get the oil settled. I also make sure the auto time adjust mechanism works. There is a small star wheel and hook (very similar to drum brake adjuster) that every time you have to adjust the clock it ratchets the star wheel and the star wheel connects to the hairspring virtual mount. It can have the effect of shortening or lengthening the spring thereby speeding up or slower down the flywheel.

The designers of this were very clever and my hat is off to them. Every time you adjust the time, it ratchets just once and no matter how many times thereafter you fiddle with the knob, it won't notch it again until 1 hour has passed. That's pretty darn clever and it's all mechanical.


I will say this, the 1966 clocks are more elegant. It's the same guts more or less just rotated -90 degrees in the housing. But these clocks are done and ready to time keep :)

More to come.

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