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So many question not sure I can remember them all -

Clock light - why not go with LED? (assuming one fits the hole)

VR capacitor - why? Sure the electronic one switches a lot, but it is an electronic switch not a mechanical switch.

Walnuts in your blaster. Do you use walnut shells for everything or just jobs like this?
I will get a blast cabinet soon, however building a building at the moment.

My 66 Merc has the same HVAC. I will be referring back to this section to update my ride. The blower works, however it is decades old and likely never been apart, I bet your motor just purrs,
And the rubber cooling hose had crumbled on mine. I believe I got a replacement (used) however the old Merc has been on the back burner as far as priority. Have been workin' on the 4 door convertible. But it is such a time suck.

Where did you get the FE rocker arm shims?
A guy on a Lincoln forum had some head work done and the push rods are not too long. Raising the rocker arm assy some might just be the thing. A MEL engine has the same rocker design as the FE engine.

You are crazy for using INSULATED stainless zip ties that will be temporary. Yikes!

Action
 

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Discussion Starter #62
So many question not sure I can remember them all -

Clock light - why not go with LED? (assuming one fits the hole)

VR capacitor - why? Sure the electronic one switches a lot, but it is an electronic switch not a mechanical switch.

Walnuts in your blaster. Do you use walnut shells for everything or just jobs like this?
I will get a blast cabinet soon, however building a building at the moment.

My 66 Merc has the same HVAC. I will be referring back to this section to update my ride. The blower works, however it is decades old and likely never been apart, I bet your motor just purrs,
And the rubber cooling hose had crumbled on mine. I believe I got a replacement (used) however the old Merc has been on the back burner as far as priority. Have been workin' on the 4 door convertible. But it is such a time suck.

Where did you get the FE rocker arm shims?
A guy on a Lincoln forum had some head work done and the push rods are not too long. Raising the rocker arm assy some might just be the thing. A MEL engine has the same rocker design as the FE engine.

You are crazy for using INSULATED stainless zip ties that will be temporary. Yikes!

Action
Howdy Action,

Hope you are well. To answer your questions:

- Clock lamp and LED bulb. So there's a couple of reasons why I didn't do this. I do have LED bayonet base bulbs and have tried this in the past. But the problems lies in the solid angle of light emitted from these style of LED bulbs. It's a relatively small cone area of light, I'd roughly estimate 1sr (sr = steradian) and that light primarily aims at the back of the brown wafer board and doesn't reflect nor scatter much of the light and the clock appears dimly lit. Whereas an incandescent bulb emits ideally in a complete sphere or 4sr, obviously the filament supports and base will block some of this, but this light also hits the white reflective surface in the cover and reflects forward. So it's a much better light source for this application. The secondary reason why I'm hesitant on using LED bulbs is because of the terrible quality and short life of most of them.

- The VR capacitor. Anything that switches on and off quickly is going to generate noise, now how fast it switches, the amount of current switches and the slew rate & shape of the current dictates the frequency, amplitude and bandwidth of that noise. A small value capacitor will absorb most if not all of it depending on the ESR and value of the capacitor.

- Walnut blaster. I have two blast cabinets, one is coal slag and the other walnut. I use walnut for more delicate parts I do not wish to etch (remove parent material) from. So I would use walnut for: electrical parts, steel parts I don't wish to remove the plating on, engine and transmission parts. Usually everything else gets the coal slag treatment.

- Rocker arm shims. These are from Precision Oil Pumps and they are meant to go on the rocker shaft when you buy the solid spacers to replace the springs in between the rockers. These shim off the rockers precisely in place over the valve stem. I definitely would not suggest that you shim the rocker stands up with these. For incorrect length push rods it's best to buy the push rod micrometer in that general range, put a light test spring on the valve and roll the engine over and adjust that push rod micrometer until you have good rocker arm to valve stem geometry. Then read the push rod micrometer and order the correct pushrods. Crane has a form you can fill out for custom push rods if need be. Easy peasy.

What kind of building are you erecting? What size area is it?

And yuppers I am crazy :p . Nah I just really hate zip ties or some call them zap straps. Adel clamps are a much more elegant solution. This was only temporary and I'll fix this when the heater core gets replaced.

Cheers
 

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Thanks for the data.

I will pass the Crane info to the cheap guy with the broke '67 MEL engine. The factory made 2 off sizes for push rods. Those parts are in the unobtainium parts world. But I have seen custom push rods and it may be able to make adjustable rocker arms work. The guy has almost no cash however he thinks he knows how the world spins. Last winter in a cold snap in the mid-west his 67 Lincoln would not start. I forget what happened but he ended replacing the heads. Now it wont start. After looking the new head is machined too much and the valves never close fully. He is literally considering drilling holes in pennies, dimes or quarters to use as a shim under the rocker stands. He doesn't want to buy custom push rods.

Building - I live in a very urban setting. The sub-division has 1/4 acre lots and the home is old and big. My vehicle storage situation is a bit cramped and I want to go up. (stacking cars) So making two buildings actually. I have one space that is only 12 X 22 on dirt. I will pour concreate and install a lift and store 2 vehicles there. The enclosure for that may only be a roof and two sides. I am squished between a 6 foot block wall (lot line) the pool wall and the house. Then I will tear down the old garage and build a new one. The concrete floor here is poor as well. A product of the 50's. May not support a lift. The garage will be expanded to 22 X 30. The foot print has not been finalized but do not have any more space on the short end. This will be tall enough to stack two vehicles on one side. If I make it deeper I will stack two sets of two. Deep enough for a better work area. However I am looking at what machines I want and sizes of those. I have a drill press, metal lathe, cabinet blaster and parts washer. The last two are getting replaced as they were used and now they are used up. So doing a lot of exploring and planning with limited space.

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