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Discussion Starter #1

i'm sooo confused......

pulled the 351w out of a 1975 Granada Ghia (after running it as a dirt track "bomber" car and then -accidentally- setting the interior on fire on the trip home)...
anyway - replaced all the gaskets / checked all the tolerances then transplanted it into a 1980 F140 (swapped it for the 300CI straight six).
((btw - F140 is a single cab 4x4)

the engine just isn't running right.
firing order is correct, timing is right on, gears aligned properly.

having difficulty adjusting the valves properly.
kept the stock hydraulic setup and original factory parts (in proper order).


have read sooo many different things---
i *assume* these are non-adjustable rockers - since each rocker is on it's own stud and there is not adjustment / jam nut on either end of the rocker.

several times - have gone thru the firing order - removed any valve lash - then tightened half to 3/4 of a turn. engine runs for a while than a couple of the nuts back themselves off and we gotta start all over.

also tried removing the lash and torque to 20 ft lbs - same result after a few minutes of running.


i know it must be something pretty simple - but what!??!!?!?!??

any feedback / assistance is GREATLY appreciated......
 

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what year did the engine come from originally?
 

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Didn't that engine have pressed-in rocker studs? If so the studs may be loose in the head and pulling out. If so you need oversize studs and a reamer.
 

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If its just the nut and not the whole stud walking, try making an X on the top of the nut with a chisel. Instant locknut. Most Ford factory valvetrains are non-adjustable so I just crank'em down. Rich
 

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This is from Comps Cams' website

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Positive Stop Stud
This type stud was used on 1969-76 302 and 351W engines, as well as 1968-72 429 engines with hydraulic cams. They do not allow for lifter adjustment and work only with smaller cams when the dimensions of the engine (block, head deck height, etc.) remain close to stock. They also don’t work on solid lifter cams.
[/FONT]
[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]COMP Cams® offers an adjustment kit (Part #4610-16 on page 276) for use with the stock positive stop studs. For high performance applications, this type of stud should be replaced with the more conventional screw-in type, along with the pushrod guide plates. [/FONT]
You my also consider investing in a set of "poly-locks."
 

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Most of those engines used a positive stop rocker stud and nut. If the stud and threads are 3/8 then it is an adjustable rocker. Non adjustable will have a shanked down threaded area where the nut tightens on the stud. Also, the 351W has a diufferent firing order than the 302. Hope this helps.
 

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i just have the blots... is here a way you can thread the stud holes to use those?
if not there's always red loctite...
 

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i just have the blots... is here a way you can thread the stud holes to use those?
if not there's always red loctite...
Yes, you can have the bosses machined for press in studs. My current 302" build involves such machine work. The machinist wants $10 per stud to do this work though. I also did this work to a couple of heads when I was in college and had access to a Bridgeport milling machine.

The heads will have to be removed in order to do this work.

Be wary of thread locking compounds. Some formulas are not designed for the high heat of internal engine parts. These formulas will actually turn into lubricant under high temperature. This is why you heat permanent (red) thread locker to remove hardware secured with it.
 

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i'm not having a problem with mine, that's what i was trying to get a, but thank you anyways... i was trying to suggest taking the studs out, and tapping the bosses for bolts...
 

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You can also pin pressed in studs so that they can move or twist.
 

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I've never adjusted rockers on a ford. But how I used to do it on my old Nova SS & Camaro Z-28 were fairly simple. First off I cut out the top of an old rocker cover..Remove your rocker cover & replace with cover that has top removed(keeps oil from going all over the place). Start engine & back off rocker nut until it starts to clatter. Tighten until clatter is gone then go another 1/4 turn. Again this was the application for a small block Chevy. Fords may be different.
 
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