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Discussion Starter #1
hi

bought today this 83 crown victoria and the idling appears to be high.

is there any adjustment to it? such as an idle control valve? I do not hear any vacuum leaks.

is there any DIY troubleshooting guide?

I have experience with fuel injection but not with this model

Thanks!
 

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hi

bought today this 83 crown victoria and the idling appears to be high.

is there any adjustment to it? such as an idle control valve? I do not hear any vacuum leaks.

is there any DIY troubleshooting guide?

I have experience with fuel injection but not with this model

Thanks!
You may check your throttle position sensor
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There is no adjustment to an idle control valve in a fuel injected engine because that is what the computer does through actuators based on sensor input.

Many '83 models had central fuel injection with EEC III. Other engines had port fuel injection with the first version of EEC IV. Diagnostic routines were done with a "star" tester and key on engine off or key on engine running. System diagnosis is best with the shop manual and a tester.

The manual will direct you to basic inspections first. Vacuum gauge reading would be one.

Knowing what engine and what EEC system you have would be a good first step. In my opinion neither is an easy system to work with without the diagnostic tools.

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hi

bought today this 83 crown victoria and the idling appears to be high.

is there any adjustment to it? such as an idle control valve? I do not hear any vacuum leaks.

is there any DIY troubleshooting guide?

I have experience with fuel injection but not with this model

Thanks!
You may have an EGR valve that is stuck partially open. Seen a lot of them back in the day. Take a hammer and small punch and tap on the base of the valve, next to the stem and see if it doesn't effect it.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
it was actually the throttle that was not going back to closed position, either dirty or sticky or weak return spring. manually pushing it back solves the problem. so I would need to take care of the throttle body.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
for some reason the throttle won't return to the idle position by itself, it seems to like to stop just before that. if i push with my hand to the left then it will lower the idling rpm. how do I adjust that? are there some adjustable travel limiters?

also - what is the white vacuum operated barrel that I circled in red?
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This is the old central fuel injection (CFI) system. Used before port fuel injection was brought into production.

The "white vacuum operated barrel" is called a throttle kicker. It did several functions. It kicked up the idle when AC was on, when the engine coolant was getting too hot and was to de-energize when the key was turned to off.
That black vacuum line should have some control with solenoids or valves. It is adjustable as well. In the pic just barely to the right of the black vacuum line there is a hex head bolt. Turning that bolt will adjust idle speed as well by moving the entire throttle kicker assembly. Which is how the curb idle speed is adjusted assuming every thing else is functioning correctly.

If the CFI body does not return to closed idle other issues could be:
Obstruction in the body
Throttle plates are not matched to the body
Some other mechanical issue with accelerator cable, speed control cable or automatic transmission kick down rod.

All of those can be removed and the idle speed adjusted with the bolt on the kicker. Typically there is a certain procedure to set the hot curb idle speed that is usually on the valve cover sticker after the base timing is set. Headlights on or AC on or off, in park or ..... you have to read the sticker for procedure and idle speed setting.

Lastly there is a lot of dirt on that engine. You might cover up the CFI body and clean off with engine cleaner.

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Discussion Starter #9
1. After careful examination I discovered the attachment in yellow was too tight and it was causing the high idle. I believe that is the cruise control assembly.

2. Now I removed the throttle kicker. There is vacuum coming through the pipe but the actuator is not moving. I had it tested with the vacuum tool. Is holding the vacuum but the actuator is not moving even 1 mm. what should be the actuator travel when full vacuum is applied?

3. Then I looked at the thermostat. Magenta box. I used my multimeter and found that 0 volts are at between the wire and the ground at all times. When is the voltage supposed to be applied at the input wire? Then I took a wire and fed +12V from the battery post. The housing got warm after 30 seconds but I noticed no movement on the other side of the thermostat. What is the expected behavior of this part? Can I live without it as long as I am in warm climate, in Socal?

Thanks!
 

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The magenta box is a choke of sorts. 12+ should be at that single wire that goes to it at all times when the ignition key is in the on position and engine running. I believe the power source is the alternator output. The choke takes power from that wire and heats up a bi-metallic strip to open the choke as the power is applied. With the heat that you feel, at least that part of the job is working. Disconnecting it means choke operation would be on if that system is working correctly. Not something that you want in any climate and especially a warm climate. The other side of the choke should have some movement.

That throttle kicker has several functions. With no vacuum there should be movement. No movement under that condition and that is a problem. With vacuum applied there may be no movement. For the different operations consulte the shop manual.

Usually the yellow would be from the accelerator pedal and the black would be from the speed control.

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