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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys,

Me again. Happy to report I've now reached 3000KM since my issues were solved with the motor after rebuild but I've never gotten the Cruise to work since my issue was resolved.

Hoping someone has the wiring diagram for the cruise control? 1990 - Ford - E150 - 302


Things I've checked so far:
  • Vacuum to the bottom of the Cruise Control Servo. Seems really strong
  • Fuses (I think?) Problem is with what I'm seeing on the fuse panel diagram are ones that say "Speed Control" But I did go through an check all fuses. Curious if there is a relay I missed?
46348

- Tested switches on my steering wheel (Didn't think this was the issue since it happened after rebuild but figured I might as well test them)

Any other thoughts would be appreciated. About to drive 16 hours and can only get parts locally today before I leave :)
 

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Of note - Cruise control is a GM term. Ford named the same system "Speed Control". Don't go looking for the words cruise control in any Ford literature. And if you want the long marketing name, in 1969 Ford Motor Company introduced, "Finger Tip Speed Control"" It was an industry breakthrough because prior to that, the systems available were mounted on the instrument panel. This new system had the controls mounted in the steering wheel. An industry first!
So much for the history lesson.

Given what you have done -
Of note, if the horn works fuse #16 is good and so is power to speed control. That has been true for decades
Make sure the brake lights are not on. When the brake lights come on the system is disabled.
Near the brake light switch on the brake pedal is a vacuum switch. (Vacuum dump valve) The switch opens when the brake pedal is depressed removing vacuum from the servo. Make sure that valve is closed when the brake pedal is not operating.
There is a speed sensor on the transmission. With the connector off the resistance reading of the sensor should be around 200 ohms.
Steering wheel mounted switches are not on/off switches. Rather they are switches that add resistance to an electrical signal from the amplifier. These switches connect to a ground in the steering column. That ground can be an issue. Also those switches receive their signal through brushes and a slip ring in the steering wheel. Poor contact adding resistance to that circuit means the system will not work. Steering wheel removal is necessary to inspect

Other parts in the system.
Amplifier and servo

I am not finding a complete wiring diagram on the net. Here is a crude wiring of the amplifier to all of the parts. Missing are connectors Wire colors may be off because it is a F Series.
Shop manual has wiring in section 37. OR there is the EVTM that has the wiring for the entire vehicle.

image_c6750d3fc45a801804cd7c8a169343671a1ec87e.jpeg



Action
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks action! Very informative.
Of note - Cruise control is a GM term. Ford named the same system "Speed Control". Don't go looking for the words cruise control in any Ford literature. And if you want the long marketing name, in 1969 Ford Motor Company introduced, "Finger Tip Speed Control"" It was an industry breakthrough because prior to that, the systems available were mounted on the instrument panel. This new system had the controls mounted in the steering wheel. An industry first!
So much for the history lesson.

Given what you have done -
Of note, if the horn works fuse #16 is good and so is power to speed control. That has been true for decades
Make sure the brake lights are not on. When the brake lights come on the system is disabled.
Near the brake light switch on the brake pedal is a vacuum switch. (Vacuum dump valve) The switch opens when the brake pedal is depressed removing vacuum from the servo. Make sure that valve is closed when the brake pedal is not operating.
There is a speed sensor on the transmission. With the connector off the resistance reading of the sensor should be around 200 ohms.
Steering wheel mounted switches are not on/off switches. Rather they are switches that add resistance to an electrical signal from the amplifier. These switches connect to a ground in the steering column. That ground can be an issue. Also those switches receive their signal through brushes and a slip ring in the steering wheel. Poor contact adding resistance to that circuit means the system will not work. Steering wheel removal is necessary to inspect

Other parts in the system.
Amplifier and servo

I am not finding a complete wiring diagram on the net. Here is a crude wiring of the amplifier to all of the parts. Missing are connectors Wire colors may be off because it is a F Series.
Shop manual has wiring in section 37. OR there is the EVTM that has the wiring for the entire vehicle.

View attachment 46350


Action
Thanks! Very informative as always.
 

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