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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Wierd deal here.
This has been happening of and on for around 2 years.
First of all Saturday replaced plugs Dist cap rotor fird up thing were fine.
So yesterday tapped on the EEC power relay it stumbled and quit.
Today I put a new relay on it fired up ran great.
on the way back to return
the tester it shut down again.
so I put the tester on it Pipp light flashed module light stayed off.
Then I couldn't get it restarted I pulled the negative battery cable cleaned it again it wasn't corroded.
But it fired right up again.
What did it do reset the processor?
I have it over to the shop now having a TFI module put on it
Wierd:(
 

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so I put the tester on it Pipp light flashed module light stayed off.
Can you say this with more words and maybe some punctuation so I can better understand?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I have a starting problem intermitant.
at times my 1991 3.8 Bird won't start after getting warm.
Replaced EEC relay it runs well then shuts down.
If I pull the negative cable and put it back on it starts back up.
I put a tester on it and it shows bad module.
I don't understand why the battery cable affects it.
It is clean and cranks good.
 

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What kind of a tester?
Which module is it saying is bad?
 

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I believe that could give you a spark/no spark situation.

Do you plan to swap it out?

I guess another name for that would be the Ignition Control Module, no?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Correct on both counts.
It's over at the dealership now.
My old hands can't get to the top bolt on the module.
I've bled enough this week:(
 

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the TFI does wreak havoc when it starts to go. when it refuses to start, does it crank over, or do you get a clicking sound from under the hood?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
the TFI does wreak havoc when it starts to go. when it refuses to start, does it crank over, or do you get a clicking sound from under the hood?
Yes it cranks over fine.
They moved the module from the dist and placed it in a finned aluminum housing on the core support behind the passenger side headlight assy.
I printed out a diagrahm Sunday and was within one bolt of having it removed and gave up cos I didn't have a 3 mile extension.
Not made for an old fellow like me.:incazzato:
 

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In know that in some years they had a fender or otherwise remote mounted ICM. SO I guess that is what they did.

Did you get it back? Does it start properly?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
In know that in some years they had a fender or otherwise remote mounted ICM. SO I guess that is what they did.

Did you get it back? Does it start properly?
Got It back starts good but when you drive it around like I did Thurday
I let it get real warm .
Then went to the grocery store and the car sat for around 45 minutes.
Same problem cranked great but no fire.
I then let it sit for another 30 minutes and fired right up.
I took it back to the dealership yesterday morning and told the mechanic to take the car to lunch with him because he couldn't duplicate the problem.
He took it to lunch and the problem did appear as I stated above.
So he has now narrowed it down to the coil or the ignition switch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Got it back yesterday it starts and runs fine with the exception of a slight
Idling problem.
I'm going out to the garage now to check for a vacuum leak or a loose wire on the IAC.
What we ended up replacing was the TFI Module and tossed the aftermarket EEC relay and replaced it with a Motorcraft one.
I'm going to try to get the tech on this site he is untiring on trying to resolve an isuue and won't just toss parts on and hope that something will fix it.
Thanks for all your help.
Great People here and a lot of good info.
Dom
 

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I know someone used to post on another site ... cryodiagnostics. You could try cooling the coil if it doesn't start and see if that does it.
I think he used a can of the compressed air that you use to clean out your keyboard.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I know someone used to post on another site ... cryodiagnostics. You could try cooling the coil if it doesn't start and see if that does it.
I think he used a can of the compressed air that you use to clean out your keyboard.
That's a great idea.
I know on the old Dura-Spark ignition we used to cool them down with
a water dampened cloth.
I'm going to toss a can in my car when I leave.
It seems OK as of now.
I let it run for around an hour fooled around checking other things manually.
came back in for an hour and then went back out it started well and idled
good.
If it running this well I'll take it back to the Dealership and have them put the lower dash back in it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
It did it again.
it seems that I only have this problem when letting it sit in the sun for a period of time.
I wonder if the air charge Temp sensor would have anything to do with the problem.
 

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It did it again.
it seems that I only have this problem when letting it sit in the sun for a period of time.
I wonder if the air charge Temp sensor would have anything to do with the problem.
So did you try a little cryodiagnostics?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
No I left the house without it.
I went back into the legion for about 15 minutes and came back out with a bit of water in a cup to put on the aluminum housing but I didn't need it
because it fired right up.
I'm going to sleep on it for the night.
Thanks for the tip too bad I forgot the aerosal:confused5:
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Wish Me Luck.
Replaced the ECM which was hotter than a firecracker.
So I bought one from Cardone I'm going out and run around for a bit and see what happens.
Why does Ford discontinue parts after 20 years:(
Don't answer that I know the answer.
BTW I did try Rock Auto:)
 

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Fingers crossed. Good luck!
 
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