1993 E150 5.0L - Lacks power at freeway speeds | FordForumsOnline.com
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1993 E150 5.0L - Lacks power at freeway speeds

Discussion in 'Ford E-Series' started by Driver50x, Jun 30, 2020 at 3:45 AM.

  1. Driver50x

    Driver50x New Member

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    Hello all,

    My van runs pretty well from a dead stop and at lower RPM’s. If you brake torque it there is no misfire. If you are going up a fairly steep hill at over 40 MPH, it is very short on power. You have to push the gas pedal down farther and farther to try to maintain speed. Then when the transmission downshifts, it will start backfiring and nearly quit running. I checked the fuel pressure. It is 30 psi at idle, and 43 psi if you remove the vacuum line from the fuel pressure regulator. It also maintains 43 psi when the problem is occurring during a road test. I checked the exhaust system back pressure. It is 2 psi under wide open throttle and while the problem is occurring. I tried turning the crankshaft back and forth by hand. The distributer rotor moves very quickly in either direction, indicating that there is very little play in the timing chain. Any ideas on what to check next?

    Also it has a sensor that is broken in half on the top center of the transmission bellhousing. It’s an automatic transmission. What is that sensor for?

    I used to be a Mechanic in a Chevrolet dealership. This Ford stuff is a little foreign to me.

    Thanks for any help,
    Steve
  2. Action

    Action Moderator Staff Member Respected Member

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    Welcome to the FFO!

    I believe that sensor is a range sensor. The processor needs that sensor to know what gear the transmission is in.

    Is the CEL on?
    If so pull codes.
    That would be an EEC IV system not OBD II

    >>>Action
  3. Dominick 1

    Dominick 1 Well-Known Member Respected Member

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    Welcome to the Forum
  4. Action

    Action Moderator Staff Member Respected Member

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    The transmission on a E 150 will be a E4OD.

    YOu state there is a sensor on the top of the bell housing.
    Is this into the case or just laying on top of the case?

    I have gotten my copy of the shop manual and I am not seeing a sensor into the case.

    >>>>Action
  5. Action

    Action Moderator Staff Member Respected Member

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    Are you in a high humidity area?
    How long has this issue been happening?

    >>>>Action
  6. Driver50x

    Driver50x New Member

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    Thanks guys. Yes it is humid, I live in Florida. It has been doing this for several months, the van only gets driven about twice a month. The broken sensor is actually in the engine block, just ahead of the bell housing. I also forgot to add that the idle is very high, and it stalls at times. The check engine light was burned out, I replaced that today. The light stays on when the engine is running. It has a code 12, 56, 32, and 65.
    I had the O2 sensor and EGR valve disconnected, so that could account for two of them.

    A89F10BE-F786-439C-99CE-9FF8402F58FC.jpeg
  7. Dominick 1

    Dominick 1 Well-Known Member Respected Member

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    That wire wouldn't have come from the sensor on top of the EGR valve?
    awww.rockauto.com_info_48_F2ZZ9G428B_FRO__ra_t.jpg
  8. Action

    Action Moderator Staff Member Respected Member

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    Replace the O2 sensors. Those older type have a shelf life of 50,000 to 75,000 miles. I assume there are more miles than that on the engine. This may be the cause of the high speed power concern. If the system thinks it is too rich it will dial back the mixture based on an O2 signal. (Or lack there of)

    Fix the EGR next. That may be the issue for the #12 if the EGR valve is stuck

    12 Idle Speed Control motor or Air Bypass not controlling idle properly (generally idle too low)

    32 EVP - (R) EGR not responding properly during test
    EVR - (O, R, M) EVP signal is/was low
    PFE - (R, M) PFE shows low pressure, EGR not seating or memory, not seating intermittently

    56
    Vane Air Flow (VAF) or Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor high
    Transmission Oil Temperature sensor too high

    65 Check intermittent HO2S (signal or ground)
    (R) E4OD truck - cycle OD cancel switch after engine ID is received
    1984 3.8L ONLY - O, M Battery voltage high (check for electrical system overcharging)

    >>>>>Action
  9. Action

    Action Moderator Staff Member Respected Member

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    The yellow circle looks like where a oil pressure sender would be on a 460. Except you have a 5.0l. Just not sure if that is in a water jacket or ???

    Is the connector snapped off or ???


    >>>>>>>Action
  10. 63falcondriver

    63falcondriver Member

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    I think it's either one of two possibilities. First guess would be fuel flow issues. ie, dirty filter. Second guess is a restricted catalytic converter.
  11. wwhite

    wwhite New Member

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    I’m positive that’s the knock sensor. I wouldn’t drive it too hard without it, you could damage your engine.
    Action likes this.
  12. Driver50x

    Driver50x New Member

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    I did one test drive with the O2 sensor removed, to test for a plugged exhaust. It ran exactly the same.

    the sensor itself on the back of the engine is broken in half. I guess I could remove it from the engine to get a better idea of what it is.

    I’ll be out of town the next couple of days for work.
  13. Action

    Action Moderator Staff Member Respected Member

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    A good test for plugged exhaust is a vacuum gauge.
    Connect the vacuum gauge to intake vacuum and start the engine.
    If the gauge starts high and slowly drops the exhaust is plugged or partially plugged. All of the exhaust is not getting out of the combustion chamber which makes it difficult to generate vacuum on the intake stroke.

    If that sensor is a knock sensor, (I think it is and is a very good suggestion by wwhite) that sensor is only needed in the rare event of spark pinging. The purpose of a knock sensor is to send that signal to the processor and the processor retards base ignition timing. The processor will do that in 2 degree increments until the knock sensor stops reporting. With it disconnected or damaged there is no signal and the processor will not make adjustments in the event of pinging.


    >>>>Action
  14. Action

    Action Moderator Staff Member Respected Member

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    s-l1600 (1).jpg
    Here is a knock sensor for a 1992 to 1995 E 150 with a 5.0l engine. I think it fits to your picture. This particular one was fond on ebay for a very high price. The picture was good. I think you can find these for $10 + S&H.

    These are the numbers associated with it
    E3AZ-12A699-A, E1AF-12A699-A1A, E1AF-12A699-A2A, E9TF12A699AA, F0TZ12A699A and E3AF-12A699-AA

    The first one looks like a part number and all the rest are engineering numbers. I know you are from the Bowtie world. This is one of the quirks of the Blue Oval world. The number stamped into the part is not the part number. It is an engineering number.

    >>>>>>Action
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