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I just completed an intake manifold replacement... on a 1998 4.6 L Grand Marqui all is back together. Keep in mind this car has been sitting for three years. I did an oil and oil filter change,fresh antifreeze and a new battery. I've no experience with this car and with that being said it won't fire. It turns fine but won't start. There's 1/4 tank of fuel. I put a bottle of Heet and added about 2 gallons of fuel. I'm thinking maybe the gas is bad? Is there a way to introduce fresh fuel to the injectors so I can rule out faulty injectors? How do you check firing?

Thanks all!
 

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Cranks but don't start
When you turn the key ON, the CEL should light, it should gradually go out as you crank the engine. If it doesn't go out, then the computer is not getting a good signal from the crankshaft position sensor, or the PCM is bad.
If the light never comes on, there can be a number of reasons, such as: the bulb is burnt out, your ignition switch is bad, fuses are bad, faulty EEC relay, bad grounds.


You may also want to check your fuel pressure at the rail.
look for 35 psi or more.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I'm leaning towards dropping the tank. Letting it dry out and putting new fuel in and replacing the fuel filter. Can you hear the pump prime when you turn the key on? That 1/4 tank of fuel is probably no longer very combustible. I'm imagining also that the system pressure was lost couple of years ago and the fuel lines went dry. That being said, does the pump have the recall ability to reprime those injectors with just a few cranks? What are your thoughts? Take this route before pursuing the others? How do you check FP at the rail? Again, is there any way to introduce a shot of fuel to the injectors through the rail?

Thanks Friend!

Have you ever dropped the tank? Is it a PITA?
 

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You have an electric pump in the tank. You can turn the key ON, for a couple of seconds, off and then on That should be enough to prime the system.

You can check the pressure at the fuel rail with a pressure guage. THere is a schraeder valve (looks like a tire valve) Circled in red.

BTW... When I did my intake, I removed a cover to the wiper assembly, it just snapped on and off, and drilled an access hole about where I put that pink dot, to gain access with a socket to that nearly impossible to reach bolt.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ok Poppy, to start with I do not have a fuel pressure tester. The only one I have is for compression. I'm still stuck in the midset that this car is not going to start until I drain all the old gas out of it. I went and bought an excellent Ford Service Manual specifically for the 1998 Crown Victoria and Grand Marquis for around $15 off Ebay. Don't know what they run new but I think I got quite a steal!

I perused the section on removing the tank and they made it seem pretty perplexing. Are there two tanks I need to remove? How much of a pain are they to drop?

I also went to O'reillys and while they didn't have a pressure tester to loan/rent, he was telling me I needed to check for spark also and in order to do that required a special piece of equipment. The end result of that conversation was that I really needed to take the car into a shop and have them look at it. NOT what I wanted to hear at this point.

Seriously, at this point what are my reasonable options to detemining why it won't fire? Is there some reason you would disagree that old fuel has anything to do with it?

Thanks friend!
 

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Have you Checked/Replaced your fuel filter? Gas that old may have gummed it up pretty good.
 

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I agree with Robert44. Replacing the fuel filter is easy enough to do. You'll probably need a special quick disconnect tool that'll cost less than $20. I'm not positive that the CV uses the same one, but it is possible.

Regarding the need for special equipment to test for spark: you can get a spark tester that is essentially a spark plug with a wire attached to it so that you can ground the body of the plug easily as you crank the engine. OR you can use a spark plug, and ground the body of it.

awww.lawnmowerpros.com_Shop_Images_Spark_Tester.jpg
 

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Since the car was sitting for a few years, you may also have other issues, like squirrels or mice may have chewed through vacuum hoses, or wires, or spiders may have made a nest inside the MAF sensor, all kinds of problems could have occured.

DId you observe the CEL as I discribed in post #31 ?

Regarding dropping the tank, no I personally have never done that. if it mentions two tanks, the first is probably the vapor canister. On my '99 it is under the gas tank.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Ok, as of this morning I replaced the in-line fuel filter. Piece of cake. Not much fuel came out though. I'd say I captured about 1/2 cup and then there was some in the filter itself. I drained it into a metal bowl and lit it to see if it would ignite. It did with a thick black smoke. So it is capable of ignition.

The CEL comes on when the key is on like it should and then the minute I start cranking it goes out. The noticible thing is, when the engine is cranking it's not constant smooth and steady. It has a cadence. It's ONE, two, three four, ONE, two, three four, ONE, two, three four, ONE, two, three four, in rapid succession. This may mean nothing. In any case still does not fire up.
 

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Try this.
Open the gas cap, and have someone listen to it while someone else turns the key to ON. They should be able to hear the fuel pump run for a second or two, if not depress the fuel safety inertia switch to make sure it is depressed and re-test.

The cranking cadence may not be good. You may want to do a compression test.

Regarding your earlier question, yes you can remove the air tube from the air box to the throttle body and spray some carb cleaner in there and see if it starts, like you would an old carbed engine.
 

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If you don't hear the pump running for the 2 or 3 seconds check the EEC & Fuel Pump Relays.
They should be located on the drivers side fender well. (see attached picts) You will have to press the little tab to get the tray to slide out.
Check the yellow wire with a black tracer It should have power 24/7 same with the blue wire with the orange tracer. The yellow wire gets power from the fuse block behind the battery (I believe it's fuse #12) I have some diagrams someplace if you don't have them already, I can post them for you. If the yellow has no power try running a a jumper wire to the relay and see if it starts. (This was the problem on my car when it cranked and didn't start)
 

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I forgot to mention to also check the relays. All 3 are the same on my 98 cv also the same as all the ones in the fuse block behind the battery you can swap back and fourth and see if anything changes.
Also when you put the relays back watch that you don't compress the vacuum line under neath.
 

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LOL... I agree with robert about the relays, I just figured I'd mention it after you narrowed down whether it was a fuel or ignition problem.

In the electrical section there is a sticky on how to check your relays and fuses
 

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LOL... I agree with robert about the relays, I just figured I'd mention it after you narrowed down whether it was a fuel or ignition problem.

In the electrical section there is a sticky on how to check your relays and fuses
Thanks Poppy :wink5::wink5:
That Yellow with black tracer wire was the culprit on my car, Seems to be fairly common problem of them being cut in two just behind and under the passenger headlight Its a real PITA to get to without havering the help of little hands. (My kids were a great help when I did mine) If no power where it connects to the EEC relay no power will get to the fuel pump either. hence crank and no start. Also quick and easy to check with a volt meter.
 

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When he turns the key ON the CEL lights, when he cranks the engine, the light goes out. According the RickMN that means that he is getting a PIP signal. I don't think that is possible without the EEC relay working. LOL... if I am wrong, it won't be the first time. :)
 

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When he turns the key ON the CEL lights, when he cranks the engine, the light goes out. According the RickMN that means that he is getting a PIP signal. I don't think that is possible without the EEC relay working. LOL... if I am wrong, it won't be the first time. :)
Hey Poppy
I don't know, You very well could be right.:)
I was going to try to reproduce the effect with my car But my CEL is on due to emissions problem I haven't gotten to yet.:frown2: So when i crank my car the CEL stays light just dims a bit, At least I think that's why it stays light?
At least its a quick and easy check to see if that yell/w black wire has power at the relay just to rule that out for sure.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Ok fellas, at least we KNOW it's not spark. I put a trace of gas in the intake and she fired right up. I had my daughter turn the key to ON while I had my ear at the open gas fill tube. I heard nothing. Tried this several times just to make sure. So now I know it's a fuel issue. So I swapped the Fuel and AC relays and that didn't help. Now I see you need me to check power to the yellow and blue wires. I need to find my voltmeter to do that. Oh, I also attempted to reset the fuel switch on the passenger side of the trunk but the button was already in the down position. Wigglin it did nothing. I suppose I forgot to mention that the car has also been without a batter for the 3 year duration as well. I went and replaced both battery cable clamps are they were badly corroded and eaten away and bought a brand new battery as well. I was hoping that without power for so long that the fuel switch would have popped up and needed reset but it didn't. Welp, let me find my meter and see where the power is or isn't. Thanks Poppy and Robert. It least I'm feeling closer to resolve. Just hope I don't have to pull that tank to get to the pump. Gotta figure a way to drain fuel out also. I think that would at least help my odds but I know we gotta get the pump to prime first.
 

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A quick place to check for power with a test light is at the fuel safety inertia switch, when your daughter turns the key to ON. Remember there will be power there only momentarily. (1-2 seconds). IF you have power that far, then you have narrowed it down to bad wires from there to the pump, a bad ground for the pump, or a bad pump.

Hopefully you'll find a crappy connection or a place that a rodent chewed through the wiring.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Welp, I got power on both wires to the relay box. I don't THINK I'm getting power to the IFS. I pulled the wire connector off and it didn't seem to make any difference when the ignition was engaged to ON. Each wire had a very tiny hole in the sheilding that l'm sure was put there to test with at some point in the past. I used those points as well. No change. So I thought to have her try to start it with the test wires on those two holes to bare wire but that proved nothing either. Let it be said that wiring is my weakest link in auto trouble-shooting. My understanding of it is minimal. I don't know what else to do other than trace the wires but I'm not sure I can do that with confidence. Something is just not making contact. She assured me that rodents were never an issue where she lived in S. Texas. I've seen no evidence here either. Next?
 
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