I'm experiencing a rough idle/miss at lower rpms. Seems to happen more often after a rain or it's humid.
In the past it's been coil packs that have gone bad and I've had them replaced. Had all the packs and plugs replaced about 20,000 mi ago.
I've seen in my searches that a common problem is moisture getting in through a crack in the boot, causing the spark to arc to the head and not the plug. I'm guessing that is why I'm not getting a service engine light.
The next nice day I'm planning on taking out all the coil packs. Blowing out the moisture etc.
I guess my real question is, I have heard that there is a common issue where a hose will leak a bit and drip right onto a boot. Which cylinder does it usually leak over?
When you remove the COP's to clean out tubes,try adding some silicone brake caliper slide grease around the seat of the COP's.This will help seal out moisture.Do not use dielectric grease,it may promote arcing.
I don't know why they call it dielectric grease, becuase it leads one to believe that it is conductive. I recall reading somewhere, that it is NOT conductive.
Poppy,Dielectric grease is non-conductive,It's used to coat electrical connections to keep from oxidizing.Ever pull out a tail lights bulb and the tip is covered in grease.
Thanks for the suggestions, I will try it when I get a few hours to complete this task. With a 2 yr old and a 5 month old, it's hard to get the time to devote to checking all the cylinders on an E150, man it's a pain!
I've got a ELM327 reader that hooks to my tablet PC, I thought at one point it may be the O2 sensors as well. Would anyone be able to interpret the log files that it generates and tell me if one is malfunctioning? A few years ago the CEL came on for a short time, took it to auto zone and it said that an O2 sensor wasn't working properly. But shortly thereafter the light went out and hasn't come on since for that. The VAN doesn't return any error codes, etc, these electrical problems can be so frustrating!:frown2:
Thanks again:
Below is the contents of the text file that was generated by EASYOBDII V3.0
23:10:15 > Bank 1 Sensor 1 > 0.125 V
23:10:15 > Bank 1 Sensor 2 > 0.000 V
23:10:15 > Bank 1 Sensor 1 > 0.160 V
23:10:15 > Bank 1 Sensor 2 > 0.000 V
23:10:15 > Bank 1 Sensor 1 > 0.200 V
23:10:15 > Bank 1 Sensor 2 > 0.000 V
23:10:15 > Bank 1 Sensor 1 > 0.245 V
23:10:15 > Bank 1 Sensor 2 > 0.000 V
23:10:16 > Bank 2 Sensor 1 > 0.505 V
23:10:16 > Bank 2 Sensor 1 > 0.530 V
23:10:16 > Bank 2 Sensor 1 > 0.550 V
23:10:16 > Bank 2 Sensor 1 > 0.565 V
23:10:16 > Bank 2 Sensor 1 > 0.590 V
23:10:16 > Bank 2 Sensor 1 > 0.605 V
23:10:16 > Bank 2 Sensor 1 > 0.625 V
BogHog,
Yes I use dielectric grease regularly, and I use it around the COP boots too.
This statement surprised me, especially since we both agree that it is not conductive.
Do not use dielectric grease,it may promote arcing.
Looking a previous post the information about the O2 sensors. It shows bank 1 sensor 2 at 0.000V would that be my problem. Anyone know what the locations of these sensors are.
By the way, I did take off the COP's and checked plugs. Took my air compressor and blew out the plug chambers but still running awful. Is it uncommon for it to not trip the CEL?
So I went for another drive tonight with my ELM327 hooked up, the van was missing a lot especially felt at lower rpms, but of course it won't trigger a CEL :-( . Here's the datalogger, anyone with a bunch of time on their hands? I would really appreciate it if you could spot any strange data.
Ok, I've done a lot since the last post and thought I had it fixed. I removed all the coil packs again, replaced all the boots/springs. Didn't do the plugs again since I did them a week prior to that. The van ran great for about another week/week and a half. Now it's missing again albeit not as frequently as it was before. It still seems that whenever it's very humid I still get the miss.
I'll start it and it will run fine for a few minutes. Then miss for about 10-15 minutes and start running fine after that. Can anyone think of anything else that might be affected by humidity? Bad EGR valve? O2 sensors?
I know little about what readings are expected, and what values would be out of range.
But your engine coolent temps seem to be very low, and non-changing.
In 6 minutes it went up 3 degrees
23:10:52 > Coolant Temperature > 9 Deg C > 48.2 Deg F
23:10:52 > Intake Air Temperature > -2 Deg C > 28.4 Deg F
23:10:53 > Coolant Temperature > 9 Deg C > 48.2 Deg F
23:10:53 > Intake Air Temperature > -2 Deg C > 28.4 Deg F
23:10:53 > Coolant Temperature > 9 Deg C > 48.2 Deg F
23:10:53 > Intake Air Temperature > -2 Deg C > 28.4 Deg F
23:10:53 > Coolant Temperature > 11 Deg C > 51.8 Deg F
23:10:54 > Intake Air Temperature > -2 Deg C > 28.4 Deg F
23:10:54 > Coolant Temperature > 11 Deg C > 51.8 Deg F
23:10:54 > Intake Air Temperature > -2 Deg C > 28.4 Deg F
23:10:54 > Coolant Temperature > 11 Deg C > 51.8 Deg F
23:10:54 > Intake Air Temperature > -2 Deg C > 28.4 Deg F
23:10:55 > Coolant Temperature > 11 Deg C > 51.8 Deg F
23:10:55 > Intake Air Temperature > -2 Deg C > 28.4 Deg F
23:10:55 > Coolant Temperature > 11 Deg C > 51.8 Deg F
23:10:55 > Intake Air Temperature > -2 Deg C > 28.4 Deg F
23:10:55 > Coolant Temperature > 11 Deg C > 51.8 Deg F
23:10:55 > Intake Air Temperature > -2 Deg C > 28.4 Deg F
23:10:56 > Coolant Temperature > 11 Deg C > 51.8 Deg F
23:10:56 > Intake Air Temperature > -2 Deg C > 28.4 Deg F
23:10:56 > Coolant Temperature > 11 Deg C > 51.8 Deg F
23:10:56 > Intake Air Temperature > -2 Deg C > 28.4 Deg F
23:10:56 > Coolant Temperature > 11 Deg C > 51.8 Deg F
23:10:57 > Intake Air Temperature > -2 Deg C > 28.4 Deg F
23:10:57 > Coolant Temperature > 11 Deg C > 51.8 Deg F
23:10:57 > Intake Air Temperature > -2 Deg C > 28.4 Deg F
23:10:57 > Coolant Temperature > 11 Deg C > 51.8 Deg F
23:10:57 > Intake Air Temperature > -2 Deg C > 28.4 Deg F
23:10:58 > Coolant Temperature > 11 Deg C > 51.8 Deg F
23:10:58 > Intake Air Temperature > -2 Deg C > 28.4 Deg F
23:10:58 > Coolant Temperature > 11 Deg C > 51.8 Deg F
23:10:58 > Intake Air Temperature > -2 Deg C > 28.4 Deg F
Thanks for the update. When I took that engine data, it was in the middle of winter and the engine had been off for quite some time. I took another reading later in the year and while driving. Here is an excerpt from the attached .PDF a few posts back.
19:53:15 > Coolant Temperature > 88 Deg C > 190.4 Deg F
19:53:15 > Intake Air Temperature > 27 Deg C > 80.6 Deg F
19:53:16 > Coolant Temperature > 88 Deg C > 190.4 Deg F
19:53:16 > Intake Air Temperature > 27 Deg C > 80.6 Deg F
19:53:16 > Coolant Temperature > 88 Deg C > 190.4 Deg F
19:53:16 > Intake Air Temperature > 27 Deg C > 80.6 Deg F
19:53:16 > Coolant Temperature > 88 Deg C > 190.4 Deg F
19:53:17 > Intake Air Temperature > 27 Deg C > 80.6 Deg F
19:53:17 > Coolant Temperature > 88 Deg C > 190.4 Deg F
19:53:17 > Intake Air Temperature > 27 Deg C > 80.6 Deg F
19:53:17 > Coolant Temperature > 88 Deg C > 190.4 Deg F
19:53:17 > Intake Air Temperature > 27 Deg C > 80.6 Deg F
19:53:18 > Coolant Temperature > 88 Deg C > 190.4 Deg F
19:53:18 > Intake Air Temperature > 27 Deg C > 80.6 Deg F
19:53:18 > Coolant Temperature > 88 Deg C > 190.4 Deg F
19:53:18 > Intake Air Temperature > 27 Deg C > 80.6 Deg
I'm a computer technician by trade, so I'm a little (ok a lot) out of my element when it comes to what could be causing these symptoms and like most in this economy don't have $$$ to throw at a repair shop. Thanks again for all the help everyone!
In older systems there was a MAP manifold absolute Pressure sensor, and in some there was a Barometric pressure sensor; I am sure that by 2001 they were both done away with. You however would have a MAF sensor in your air intake hose just after the air filter box. Maybe you will have an IAT sensor. They can be cleaned, and MAY be affected by air temp, or air density.
Ok, I finally broke down and had the dealership run a diagnostic. Turns out that #2 coil wasn't passing a stress test. It showed the same resistance as the others when I checked it with my multimeter but for some reason wasn't failing enough to trip the Check Engine Lamp. So $82 purchased my sanity. I didn't let them do the repair for an extra $200 since I already had a new coil at home and it took me 30 minutes to swap it out. My van is running like a top again. Thanks for all the suggestions and advice.
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