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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I usually ride with the windows down but today was super hot so I turned on the a/c and it was blowing somewhat cool on the passenger side and hot on the driver side. I have no idea what to do and don't want to have to spend a lot of money. If I could do this myself that would be great.
 

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If your refrigerant level is low, your A/C will certainly not be up to the task of cooling. When low, unpredictable temperatures are often reported. You might also have a blend door issue if you have Electronic Automatic Temperature Control. Or you might have a combination of both...

This was posted recently and may be helpful:
http://www.fordforumsonline.com/for...ning-cooling-systems/1192-02-explorer-ac.html
 

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Lets try this. With the car at normal operating temperature put a thermometer (meat thermometer or an $3 A/C thermometer) in the middle vent in the dash with the A/C on MAX and the blower motor on high, drive around for about 15 to 20 minutes with the windows up. What temperature is the air coming through the vent? It should be in the range of 36 degrees F up to (say) 45 degrees F depending on the ambient air temperature. If not, can you tell if the A/C clutch is being engaged, that is turning (not just the pulley). You can go to your local library and look at service manuals like Chiltons, Mitchels, Motors, and Haynes in order to look at pictures and/or drawings of the various parts of the A/C system as well as an explanation of how the system works. The idea is to first determine what the problem is (diagnose), and then determine what needs to be done to fix it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
It is definately not 36 degress or even 45 degrees, it is hot air coming out when the a/c is on. I can tell that the a/c clutch is being engaged. I took the truck to the local firestone here on base and they thought that it was the blend door either broken or stuck. To fix that was going to cost me a fortune. So I took the dash apart (looking online how to do so of course) and none of the doors were broken, off or even stuck. I have an appointment at a local hobby shop here on base they are going to evac the system and recharge it for the lowest amount I could find. If that doesn't work then what else should I be looking into that could cause this problem?
 

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just don't tell anyone it was done. it is illegal in the US, unless the inital problem is fixed. could be a leak in the system somewhere. where are you stationed? I spent 6 years in MCAS Miramar...
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I'm not sure what I shouldn't tell people that I have done? I haven't done anything yet so I want to make sure I am not doing anything I shouldn't. Sorry I am new at this type of thing. My husband and I are stationed out at Quantico Marine Corp Base, but hoping for San Diego next.
 

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If the system needs to be charged with refrigerant then it must have a leak. The system is a sealed system and would only need to be charged if it has a leak. Look for wet oily residue at all connections, behind the clutch coil (front compressor shaft seal), and on the front of the condenser core with a flash light or "trouble light" (pin hole leaks). The refrigerant oil mixes with the refrigerant and flows through the system to lubricate the parts. When ther is a leak there is both oil and refrigerant leaking so that the oil left behind attracts dirt. Thus the black oily residue at the site of a leak. The point is FIX the leak. Seals and "O" rings a cheap. When the system is evacuated it needs to be vacuumed for at least an hour at 27 to 30 HGs (inches of vacuum). This will generally get all the moisture out as any moisture in the system will boil under the vacuum and be evacuated with any air in the system. There are other ways to do this but you have to have access to compressed nitrogen. Note that the U.S. EPA laws, as well as most state EPA statutes make it illeagle to let refrigerant escape into the atmosphere on purpose. It is required to be captured and reused (legally). CA is by far the nastiest about this (that I know of) as noted above.
Keep the "sit reps" coming.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thank you for your information. I planned on having them look for leaks with the dye first and decide if that is the case. If no leak then I have to figure out what it is next. Thanks again!!
 

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It's not the door, it's the blend door motor that is not working.
 

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I'm not sure what I shouldn't tell people that I have done? I haven't done anything yet so I want to make sure I am not doing anything I shouldn't. Sorry I am new at this type of thing. My husband and I are stationed out at Quantico Marine Corp Base, but hoping for San Diego next.
sorry, forgot to clarify... first i meant not saying anything if the system gets filled without checking for and fixing leaks.

second, what's your husbands MOS? VA isn't that bad, is it? I might still be able to cash in some favors... All I have to say is i miss El Toro. it was a great air station.
however Miarmar is still "Fightertown, USA" sorry, rambling...
 

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the same problem

Hi. I live in Puerto Rico and I have a 2003 ford explorer. I had the same problem the other day. The mechanic put some refrigerant in saying that there was not enough refrigerant, but even with the extra refrigerant the drivers side of the car wouldnt blow cold air at all, only the passenger side. I took it to an A/C "expert" who checked it all and detected a leak in the evaporator. The cost: $375. To install a new one and repair it all. Possibly you have the same situation. Also, the blower is not powerful enough and the air seems to work better when I turn on the 2nd a/c (rear) unit of the SUV. Check it with an a/c mechanic and see. Hope this helps.
 
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