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2003 Windstar. Replaced the intake gaskets and valve cover gaskets. Ever since, it has a long crank. Fuel rail losing pressure. Changed the fuel pressure regulator, no change. Also changed the connector from the fuel pressure regulator to the intake. Now replaced pump- thought it was the check valve, back to the same issue. Also replaced the fuel filter at same time as pump. Injectors passed leak test.

No check engine lights or anything. Once it's running, it's perfectly fine.

Any ideas what else it could be?
 

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2003 Windstar. Replaced the intake gaskets and valve cover gaskets. Ever since, it has a long crank. Fuel rail losing pressure. Changed the fuel pressure regulator, no change. Also changed the connector from the fuel pressure regulator to the intake. Now replaced pump- thought it was the check valve, back to the same issue. Also replaced the fuel filter at same time as pump. Injectors passed leak test.

No check engine lights or anything. Once it's running, it's perfectly fine.

Any ideas what else it could be?


 

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Discussion Starter #3
It does have full pressure when priming the pump. But it is leaking back down after sitting. It passed the injector test. Having a hard time figuring out what is causing this.

Any other ideas of what to check?
 

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With key off the fuel pump is not on. All fuel pressure will bleed off over time.
With key on engine off fuel pressure will be 30 to 45 psi. Start engine and fuel pressure will drop to mid to hi 20s to mid 30s

 

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Discussion Starter #5
I don’t have a gauge with me currently. Is there anything else to check to see if it leaking somewhere?

could this problem also be caused by a crank sensor failing?
 

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could this problem also be caused by a crank sensor failing?
No. A crank sensor will not cause low fuel pressure. It can cause a no start.

Low fuel pressure is only cause by a couple of things
A leak - you would see and smell this
A restriction - like a plugged fuel filter
A weak pump
And a pressure regulator not working correctly.

If the tested pressure is good at any point the pump is good
If you can not see or smell gasoline, there is no external leak
There are two filters - in tank screen with the pump assy and an external one mounted under the vehicle. If those have been changed you are good
The pressure regulator on the fuel rail controls the pump pressure. It is designed as an internal leak to maintain correct fuel pressure. If wide open (vacuum off) the system pressure would be as hagh as the pump can produce.

Yu really need to test before replacing parts. The exception would be maintenance parts. Maintenance parts are replaced before they go bad.

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Discussion Starter #7
I have replaced all those parts. New regulator, new pump, new inline filter, and I do not see nor smell any leaks. It has me stumped.
 

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Without testing you can not do much more

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In post 7 you stated you replaced the regulator!

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That thought can apply to everything you replaced.
Diagnosis or testing takes the guessing out of it

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From the Service Manual - Fuel Pressure
Engine running​
210-310 kPa (28-45 psi)​
Key on engine off​
240-310 kPa (35-45 psi)​
 

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From the Service Manual - Fuel Pressure
Engine running​
210-310 kPa (28-45 psi)​
Key on engine off​
240-310 kPa (35-45 psi)​
Try watching This
 

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2003 Windstar. Replaced the intake gaskets and valve cover gaskets. Ever since, it has a long crank. Fuel rail losing pressure. Changed the fuel pressure regulator, no change. Also changed the connector from the fuel pressure regulator to the intake. Now replaced pump- thought it was the check valve, back to the same issue. Also replaced the fuel filter at same time as pump. Injectors passed leak test.

No check engine lights or anything. Once it's running, it's perfectly fine.

Any ideas what else it could be?
It could be a number of seemingly unrelated issues. The EVAP system would be a place to look for the leak down issue (Fuel Cap, EVAP hoses, Canister, Purge Valve . . .). But then, it could be an exhaust restriction, a vacuum leak (I had 2), a bad/dirty fuel injector, etc.

Seems like I've been following the same rabbit trails on my 2001 (166K miles) trying to figure out why it just quits. During the diagnosis and testing, I went through the same fuel pressure issue that you have except mine didn't leak down very much at all.

It beats all I've ever seen. The durn thing runs a smooth as a new sewing machine now, after going through all of the diagnostics and replacing parts when bad (found a bad downstream O2 sensor that the OBDII didn't catch.) and sometimes questionable, and with each new part, "Betty" runs a little better. But she will just quit during acceleration at times. I've got the restart-in-traffic sequence down to an automatic reaction (Shift to N, Key off, Start, Shift to drive and go). It may go days without it happening but out of the blue, it does it again.

The next part I'm trying is the Camshaft Synchronizer (Cam Position Sensor didn't help). I already have it but I can't seem to hold the van still long enough to Check/install it.

I hope you find your fix and let us know what it ended up being.
 

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It could be a number of seemingly unrelated issues. The EVAP system would be a place to look for the leak down issue (Fuel Cap, EVAP hoses, Canister, Purge Valve . . .). But then, it could be an exhaust restriction, a vacuum leak (I had 2), a bad/dirty fuel injector, etc.

Seems like I've been following the same rabbit trails on my 2001 (166K miles) trying to figure out why it just quits. During the diagnosis and testing, I went through the same fuel pressure issue that you have except mine didn't leak down very much at all.

It beats all I've ever seen. The durn thing runs a smooth as a new sewing machine now, after going through all of the diagnostics and replacing parts when bad (found a bad downstream O2 sensor that the OBDII didn't catch.) and sometimes questionable, and with each new part, "Betty" runs a little better. But she will just quit during acceleration at times. I've got the restart-in-traffic sequence down to an automatic reaction (Shift to N, Key off, Start, Shift to drive and go). It may go days without it happening but out of the blue, it does it again.

The next part I'm trying is the Camshaft Synchronizer (Cam Position Sensor didn't help). I already have it but I can't seem to hold the van still long enough to Check/install it.

I hope you find your fix and let us know what it ended up being.
 

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Yes, that video DID help a lot when I watched it about 5 years ago when I was having misfire problems, and cleaning the EGR ports has become a bi-annual PM thing for me. My Dad thought that his Windstar had become unreliable, so I replaced his grommets and gaskets and cleaned the ports and it fixed about 75% of his problems. His fuel pump and 3 out of 4 O2 sensors were bad. That was the rest of his engine problems. His engine runs even better than mine. His comment was "This thing has more power than the truck!" (2013 F150 with the V6).

Thanks, also, for telling about Forscan. And if you have any tips, tricks or training videos for actually using the program, let me(us) know. So far, all of the videos I've seen for it are for obtaining and installing the program and people bragging about having it and all that you can do with it yet not really knowing how to use it themselves.

Thanks again!
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Its at Ford- got a quick look at, they seem to think its an injector. I told them no rush since they were busy, but will report back once I get it back to what it was.
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
Replaced 2 injectors, and all the other injector o rings. Ford now determined the fuel pump that was just put in no good. They are replacing that this week under part warranty. Hopefully will be fixed after that.
 
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