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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited by Moderator)
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I recently had the front end rebuilt, well ball joints and camber adjusters installed. In another post I mentioned it was still not driving to my liking as in it tends to hook into corrections while cruising the highway. Well I added 1/16" toe in to the left front and it now drivers comfortably and doesn't hook.

But I noticed that it seems to have excessive body roll. I was thinking shocks and I dread changing that left front! Still may do that. So I got underneath this morning and noticed that the right more than the left roll bar bushing appears to be worn out! Picture attached. I'm thinking this would be exactly why I'm feeling the excessive body roll. How about you?

Mike R
 

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Discussion Starter #2
P.S. I'm assuming that just simply removing the hanger brackets is all that's to dropping the roll bar. And are there any tips on installing the new bushings?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Need to add after shopping, I see that some of the bushings on the axle side have the steel outer and some do not, any preference? I'd assume either would be fine since it is fitted into the hole on the arm.
 

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I am unclear as to which bar the picture shows. May be pan out a bit.

As to body sway. A sway bar (or roll bar) if so equipped would have much greater impact than shocks.

I am not as familiar with fourth Gen Econoline as I am with third Gen. Third Gen the front sway bar was optional and only in late years. Most do not have one at all.

A sway bar would be mounted to the frame and have an end link attached to a lower control arm or I beam depending on suspension type. The ends would have link kits that can be replaced. And the frame mount has rubber bushings as well.

It appears your bar passes through metal. I am not familiar with that arrangement.

>>>>>>>Action
 

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^^^^ If that is the suspension on your 4th Gen Econoline it is still of the twin I beam variety.

None of the pictures above show the sway bar. The end of the sway bar would attach to the I beam or radius arm at the #2 or #3 bolt.

>>>>>>>Action
 

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The one I'm thinking of is where the radius arm #5
has bushings at the rear of it and then goes into the bracket #6
that bracket has a metal sleeve in it that will detach itself from the bracket and you will have to replace the bracket also
 

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Action, his pictures DOES indeed show the swaybar. Thats the end where it goes into the I-beam. There is no traditional dog bone looking link. The ends of the bar run horizontally, front to rear, thru a bushing in the I-beam.
Dominics diagram is either the wrong year or it's just incomplete.

Cant take a picture of mine as it's the wee hours of the morning as I type this but I found some slightly better pics on line.
Thi first one you can see the bar runs through the beam, the rubber part is completely missing.
1561581808_tom_6808_mmthumb.jpg
 

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And this one it appears the rubber pulled out of the beam yet stayed on the end of the bar.
20191026_bushing_and_bar_944e44b193db2122d959ef139ec28562b7eb2248.jpg
 

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It is the correct photo
the problem is the photos suck
#10 sway bar goes through #13 axle beam that has a bushing in the beam not shown
Then after 10 goes through 13 #
You have #12 the end link
This is the worn bushing in the axle
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Home 2007 Ford E-150 Stabilizer Bar & Components F2UZ-5K486-A
Stabilizer Bar Bushing - Ford (F2UZ-5K486-A)
Ford F2UZ-5K486-A Stabilizer Bar Bushing Available Online Direct At OEM Ford Part
 

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Thanks GalaxieJeff! All of my Econoline experience is on 2nd and 3rd Gen Econolines.

Second Gen had no bar
Third Gen had one and it was not a common thing until late in the model run. I had one on a 90 E 150.

The end mount is different. And if so equipped that will reduce body roll or sway for the OP. Bushing replacement is needed based on the pictures posted.

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View attachment 43626 View attachment 43628 I recently had the front end rebuilt, well ball joints and camber adjusters installed. In another post I mentioned it was still not driving to my liking as in it tends to hook into corrections while cruising the highway. Well I added 1/16" toe in to the left front and it now drivers comfortably and doesn't hook.

But I noticed that it seems to have excessive body roll. I was thinking shocks and I dread changing that left front! Still may do that. So I got underneath this morning and noticed that the right more than the left roll bar bushing appears to be worn out! Picture attached. I'm thinking this would be exactly why I'm feeling the excessive body roll. How about you?

Mike R
Hi Mike. I posted the replacement of the anti-sway bar bushings here in the forum for my '99 E150. Same rolling problem. I'm sorry I'm not yet savvy enough to link it here for you. I've only 3 posts, under Team Mudshark. I highly recommend polyurethane bushings for the pointy ends in the crossmembers. Rock Auto carries them. The fronts will be thermoplastic but they work fine. It will be night and day as far as handling goes.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Wow, I had no idea my post would generate what it did, just wanted to know about the type of bushings and tips to install.
Have to say I'm sorry not to have been back sooner but work calls.

So I decided to use the Moog Poly bushings. I only did the axle sides as the hangers are in good shape and no one had them in stock locally. Easy enough to change out later.
Now i'm no expert on generations of these vans so that's why I always post up the year of my van. I can tell you that the 2007 uses a 1.125" sway bar as that is what I measured between the hangers. Seems they also had a smaller .750" bar at some time. Measure before buying.

As for the actual change out it's easy enough to remove the hanger bolts and pull the bar out. Now getting the old bushings out can be done multiple ways and I choose to use a saws all! But to do that you need to drop both tie rod ends which only took a few minutes. With room to work the saw, slice it to the I beam and it pops right out.
next up cleanup the hole, used a sanding drum on a drill motor, quick step. Lube the hole lightly with grease.

Now I had seen a lot of folks use a large C-clamp to press in the new bushing and I tried that with no success, theirs just not much room to work there, but here is the kicker, no need for that, just grab your 3lb mallet and whack it, dang thing went right in. nice and tight fit. My bar ends had some metal to metal contact and needed a slight polishing to clean up the ends. I lubed the hole of the bushing with grease, again lightly and then set the bar in place and supported it with a jack stand. Now you need that mallet again. yeah getting the bar ends in took some serious baseball hits with the mallet but eventually you get it in far enough to put the hanger bolts back in. Walla! reconnected the tie rod ends and cleaned up.

I'd love to tell you how it handles right now but time didn't let me go for a drive yet.
So I will fill in the test drive ASAP.

Thanks to everyone that posted.
 

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Thanks for posting. Your write up may help some one in the future.
Pictures would be nice if you are able.

>>>>>>Action
 
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