Try this link to Helm, Inc: 2009 Escape Mariner Wiring Diagram - Helm Incorporated
2009 Escape wiring diagram
I want to add some additional courtesy lighting near foot level and need to find where I can find a connection controlled by the doors open switches .
I will use LED's so additional load shouldn't be a big issue. I just don't want to add a switch for it and want them to work in conjunction with the overhead lights.In addition I want to avoid running wiring all the way from the overheads,although I guess that may turn out to be the best option .
In the future I may add external lighting near the floorboards .
I can't find a after market maint manual past 2008 .:idea:
I will use LED's so additional load shouldn't be a big issue. I just don't want to add a switch for it and want them to work in conjunction with the overhead lights.In addition I want to avoid running wiring all the way from the overheads,although I guess that may turn out to be the best option .
In the future I may add external lighting near the floorboards .
I can't find a after market maint manual past 2008 .:idea:
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Just get a volt meter and test the wires coming out of the doors.
It's not that simple any more . More than likely the door switches which by the way must be contained inside the doors or body(nothing showing external) , don't supply the lamp circuits directly but bias an electronic control module that has the drivers or relay that complete the circuit.Just get a volt meter and test the wires coming out of the doors.
Thank you very much but I hate to pay $79 for just the schematic since I most likely won't use it that often. I guess I'm cheap ! :blush2:Try this link to Helm, Inc: 2009 Escape Mariner Wiring Diagram - Helm Incorporated
That does sound like a very good product , apparently much more info (shows physical locations )than found in the after market maint manuals.
I believe the dome light harnes comes down the B pillar and across the drivers floor to the kick panel.You can try testing there with a DVOM or a digital test light.
They are the official Ford manuals.Thank you very much but I hate to pay $79 for just the schematic since I most likely won't use it that often. I guess I'm cheap ! :blush2:
That does sound like a very good product , apparently much more info (shows physical locations )than found in the after market maint manuals.
Ahhh there are switches still even if you cant see them, they are probably in the latch mechanism like my Windstar. Anyway they are still sending a signal even at low power. This signal even if it is not 12v can trigger a relay to turn on lights. Everything can be tested with a volt meter.
It's not that simple any more . More than likely the door switches which by the way must be contained inside the doors or body(nothing showing external) , don't supply the lamp circuits directly but bias an electronic control module that has the drivers or relay that complete the circuit.
Of course there are switches or a sensor .I just don't want to take a chance on overloading an IC inverter or driver on a new car. Even relays draw current to "pick" , possibly more than a given circuit can handle. I also don't want to remove the door panels or probe wiring insulation if it can be avoided. Things would go much neater with a schematic. I'm an electronics tech in the business for over 40 years and have seen many problems caused by guess work.Ahhh there are switches still even if you cant see them, they are probably in the latch mechanism like my Windstar. Anyway they are still sending a signal even at low power. This signal even if it is not 12v can trigger a relay to turn on lights. Everything can be tested with a volt meter.
Thanks , I'll give it a try .I believe the dome light harnes comes down the B pillar and across the drivers floor to the kick panel.You can try testing there with a DVOM or a digital test light.
attached is a PDF file of the interior lights. Looks like thay are all controlled from the Smart Junction Box
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before you try that, i'd check to see if it won't VOID your warranty. your local dealer service department would know. i have seen many guys void it out from just putting 1-2 inch lift springs on their trucks, one voided it by putting an air horn in...
just an extra precaution
oh and a guy voided his out by putting in an aftermarket radio into his mustang, not the whole system, but just the reciever...
just an extra precaution
oh and a guy voided his out by putting in an aftermarket radio into his mustang, not the whole system, but just the reciever...
I've mentioned about putting a Class-III hitch on a Escape might cause warranty problems in other forums, although I've never heard of anybody running into warranty issues. Yet your mentioning issues about items that seem less likely to cause problems!before you try that, i'd check to see if it won't VOID your warranty. your local dealer service department would know. i have seen many guys void it out from just putting 1-2 inch lift springs on their trucks, one voided it by putting an air horn in...
just an extra precaution
oh and a guy voided his out by putting in an aftermarket radio into his mustang, not the whole system, but just the reciever...
that's just what i've seen and heard while working there...
Cheers ! Thanks !!attached is a PDF file of the interior lights. Looks like thay are all controlled from the Smart Junction Box
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