Ford Automobiles banner

1 - 20 of 28 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
70 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I decided to add some power to the rear speakers. Since I had installed new JL C2 650 speakers, I wanted to have some additional power for rear fill. They were running off of deck power. Of course in order to do that, I needed to install a second amp since the 4-channel was powering fronts and the sub. This required/took care of 2 things: (a) power to the rears and separate power for the sub (b) 4 AWG in case I need/want better amps later on.
I had the RF P400-4 running fronts and the sub. Adding a dedicated amp for the sub was the plan. I also wanted to retain my remote bass knob upfront so getting another RF amp made sense. Grabbed one for nearly nothing so all I needed was the wiring/fusing. I searched around and landed at Knuconceptz.com for a nice kit. I only needed 4AWG and another set of RCA as I had everything else lying around or installed already. I had all of the 8 AWG already running so just needed the 4 AWG to run from the battery to the rear. The material from Knuconceptz appears to be very good. Solid yet flexible 4 AWG and the RCA looks decent. Came with all of the nice connectors that a quality kit should have. I did grab some 4 AWG connectors for the ground as I was going through the big ass bolt in the rear (3/8”).
First up was setting up the new board. I like setting up the amps on a wood board as it makes life easy. That way I can just lay the board in the cargo detent area under the false floor. I decided to use just a spare piece of pine I had laying around as the base and mount everything to that. Since I was now going to run 2 amps in addition to switching on a 12v relay up front (for the DVD player by-pass) I wanted to add another 12v relay to run everything from. That way the HU remote only operates 1 relay and the 2nd relay and 2 amps would run off of the supplied +12v from the battery.
Laid out everything.

aimg185.imageshack.us_img185_4323_picture1063.jpg

Since I was going to add an amp and a relay I figured I would add a small fan to the rear to help move some air around. Not sure if the amps needed it, but I figure positive air movement can’t hurt. I put the new relay under the center console in the event that I need to replace it. From that, the supply feeds the DVD by-pass relay and then “remotes” to the rear. On the new board I added a 6-way fuse box to fuse the fan and 2 amp remote leads. That way everything is properly fused. A dedicated, 12 gauge fused line runs from the battery to the 1st relay and then to the rear fuse box. Then each component is fused at the 6-way using blade fuses.
Next up was the amp power supply. On the new mounting board, I really wanted to lay out everything for safety. Ran the 4 AWG power line – fused with a 120 amp fuse at the battery - to the rear and installed the fused d-block – this also from Knuconceptz. Just an average AGU fused block. Then the split for 8 AWG was laid out to power both amps. For the ground I also used a ground d-block from Knuconceptz. I kept the ground lines as short as possible and mounted one 4 AWG to the same ground area as before.
Then added some new 16 gauge rear speaker wires through the doors the same way as the fronts - through the Molex plugs. These were 10x easier than the fronts. Ran all of the new wiring to the rear and got everything laid out. I then removed some extra “fins” on the underside of the false floor tub plastic to allow more air movement. I adjust the gains and got everything powered up nicely.
Now keep in mind the board method is only set-up for safety and to limit the jostling in the back. All RCA and power wires were loomed and properly zip-tied. Nobody will ever see it, but I want peace of mind. Plus with that much wiring, I wanted everything neat and secure. I am not in it for show but I do want it safe and installed correctly. This was a fun ass project. I wish I had unlimited funds to do an awesome system. All in all I spent around $120 as I only purchased the amp and wiring kit. The rest – wood, screws, speaker wire, 8 AWG, holders etc – I already had. Everything was properly loomed, zip-tied, separated and tightened up. No rattling of any sorts.
So what did it give me? A rear fill at the proper desired sound level and a tiny bit more power to the sub (~50 watts according to build sheet). Dedicated RCA lines for front, rear and sub. Now I don’t have to power down the fronts to hear the rears through the HU power. I can blend each separately and fill in the bass to match everything. Proper HP filters through the HU and the amps, crossovers set to my liking and bass just right. Again I have to say the Pioneer unit is amazing. For an average cost unit, it really delivers. Plus with the wife gone, I was finally able to finish it up all in one shot. No hour here….. hour there install! I also relined the caro area with additional MLV/CCF to completely finish off the recessed area. The system sounds so amazing. I built it for average-joe SQ and it delivers. I played my 2 “test” songs and it is exactly what I wanted. It was worth the 2 days of torture…
Everything all hooked up..
aimg514.imageshack.us_img514_8829_picture1065.jpg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
70 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I forgot to add that I have a Pioneer AVH-P3200BT, JL C2 components up front, JL C2 6x9 in the rear and a JL sub. The amps are under the false floor inside of the hybrid battery recessed part in the cargo area. That info was in the "old" forum.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
532 Posts
Why do you want such a high power amp in a vehicle . The unit that came stock with mine sounds very good and has enough power to cause hearing loss and piss off anyone around me if i were to crank it up .
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
128 Posts
Nice work, all around. With my skills, I wouldn't dare attempt something like that so when I get back to the states, I may have to look you up :lol:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
128 Posts
Why do you want such a high power amp in a vehicle . The unit that came stock with mine sounds very good and has enough power to cause hearing loss and piss off anyone around me if i were to crank it up .
I have the "premium sound system" or whatever they're calling it these days and maybe it's from working around F4-E fighters for many years and my ears are shot but to me, that system could/should sound a lot better. Heck, the stock system that came in my wife's car is just as loud as my "premium" system.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
532 Posts
I have the "premium sound system" or whatever they're calling it these days and maybe it's from working around F4-E fighters for many years and my ears are shot but to me, that system could/should sound a lot better. Heck, the stock system that came in my wife's car is just as loud as my "premium" system.
I just have a problem the people that have drive around town and neighborhoods with vibrations that can be felt several blocks away .To me that's extremely inconsiderate and immature . I took my grand kids to the park the other day and same thing there . I'm surprised there aren't more of these clowns getting ....well... There are times I have to take a deep breath . I have a large motorcycle cruiser that can be very loud , but I make it a point to tone it down around others .
I'm not saying sinister mob is like that , but curious why he wants such a system.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
694 Posts
I just have a problem the people that have drive around town and neighborhoods with vibrations that can be felt several blocks away .To me that's extremely inconsiderate and immature . I took my grand kids to the park the other day and same thing there . I'm surprised there aren't more of these clowns getting ....well... There are times I have to take a deep breath . I have a large motorcycle cruiser that can be very loud , but I make it a point to tone it down around others .
I'm not saying sinister mob is like that , but curious why he wants such a system.
I'm with you on this one too! The thumping I hear from some vehicles, well, I don't even know what it is! It ain't music, just noise to me.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
128 Posts
I'm not going to speak for sinister mob, but to me it's more about sound clarity and purity than having that super loudness or thump. I read his post on another site where he went into details and he installed sound deadener material which I believe does a lot to keep the sound in the vehicle, where it belongs. There are times when I like to crank it a bit, but I don't very often because I've found that the factory installed system doesn't really sound all that great (but then again, that could be my bad hearing ;))
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
70 Posts
Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
First off I am not an 18 year old thug who listens to hip hop in a ghettoed out low rider. Haha. I am a true music enthusiest. The reason for the system is because the stock system in the 2010 Escape sucks. It literally is a contoured, paper-back speaker system. The HU puts out about 8 watts and the speakers sounded like crap at any volume. Maybe the premium version is better, but mine was the basic one.

Onto the install. In reality the system is not all that mighty. It is decent wattage to run decent quality speakers and a nice Pioneer head unit. A lot of people are ignorant to what a sub does in a Sound Quality (SQ) system. Yes in theory a sub creates bass. But in a SQ system, the sub is the ONLY bass. All other speakers play the mids and highs while the sub plays the bass notes. In addition the 4-channel amp runs the fronts while the 2-channel amp runs the sub. It is set-up so that all 3 are controlled through the head unit and are all adjustable to the perfect sound. This is the need for high amperage. To put out clean power to all speakers. fronts are crossed over for highs and mids, the rears are mid fill and the sub handles the bass. That is why stockers suck because no speaker can do all three effectively. You need components to drive specific ranges.

I don't drive around town with the hatch glass open thumping away. I like a perfect sound insde the vehicle for crystal clear music that has power. I listen to a TON of U2, Depeche Mode, Cure, etc sort of music. Nothing better than watching a U2 video in perfect sound. The added soundproofing is 2-fold. One to keep the music in and two to keep the noise out.

A lot of what you guys are complaining about are SPL set-ups - or Sound Pressure mobiles. Those are the rattling subs in the rice rockets. I agree that they are annoying as all hell. But rest assured I am not one of them....:wink5:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
694 Posts
First off I am not an 18 year old thug who listens to hip hop in a ghettoed out low rider. Haha. I am a true music enthusiest. The reason for the system is because the stock system in the 2010 Escape sucks. It literally is a contoured, paper-back speaker system. The HU puts out about 8 watts and the speakers sounded like crap at any volume. Maybe the premium version is better, but mine was the basic one.

Onto the install. In reality the system is not all that mighty. It is decent wattage to run decent quality speakers and a nice Pioneer head unit. A lot of people are ignorant to what a sub does in a Sound Quality (SQ) system. Yes in theory a sub creates bass. But in a SQ system, the sub is the ONLY bass. All other speakers play the mids and highs while the sub plays the bass notes. In addition the 4-channel amp runs the fronts while the 2-channel amp runs the sub. It is set-up so that all 3 are controlled through the head unit and are all adjustable to the perfect sound. This is the need for high amperage. To put out clean power to all speakers. fronts are crossed over for highs and mids, the rears are mid fill and the sub handles the bass. That is why stockers suck because no speaker can do all three effectively. You need components to drive specific ranges.

I don't drive around town with the hatch glass open thumping away. I like a perfect sound insde the vehicle for crystal clear music that has power. I listen to a TON of U2, Depeche Mode, Cure, etc sort of music. Nothing better than watching a U2 video in perfect sound. The added soundproofing is 2-fold. One to keep the music in and two to keep the noise out.

A lot of what you guys are complaining about are SPL set-ups - or Sound Pressure mobiles. Those are the rattling subs in the rice rockets. I agree that they are annoying as all hell. But rest assured I am not one of them....:wink5:
SPL's? So that's what I'm hearing! Kind-of got out of that but I have a bunch of Depeche Mode CDs. I was into that Alternative music.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
532 Posts
First off I am not an 18 year old thug who listens to hip hop in a ghettoed out low rider. Haha. I am a true music enthusiest. The reason for the system is because the stock system in the 2010 Escape sucks. It literally is a contoured, paper-back speaker system. The HU puts out about 8 watts and the speakers sounded like crap at any volume. Maybe the premium version is better, but mine was the basic one.

Onto the install. In reality the system is not all that mighty. It is decent wattage to run decent quality speakers and a nice Pioneer head unit. A lot of people are ignorant to what a sub does in a Sound Quality (SQ) system. Yes in theory a sub creates bass. But in a SQ system, the sub is the ONLY bass. All other speakers play the mids and highs while the sub plays the bass notes. In addition the 4-channel amp runs the fronts while the 2-channel amp runs the sub. It is set-up so that all 3 are controlled through the head unit and are all adjustable to the perfect sound. This is the need for high amperage. To put out clean power to all speakers. fronts are crossed over for highs and mids, the rears are mid fill and the sub handles the bass. That is why stockers suck because no speaker can do all three effectively. You need components to drive specific ranges.

I don't drive around town with the hatch glass open thumping away. I like a perfect sound insde the vehicle for crystal clear music that has power. I listen to a TON of U2, Depeche Mode, Cure, etc sort of music. Nothing better than watching a U2 video in perfect sound. The added soundproofing is 2-fold. One to keep the music in and two to keep the noise out.

A lot of what you guys are complaining about are SPL set-ups - or Sound Pressure mobiles. Those are the rattling subs in the rice rockets. I agree that they are annoying as all hell. But rest assured I am not one of them....:wink5:
Cool , glad to hear your not one of those annoying clowns .
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
33 Posts
Nice setup :yikes:
I just got the 2010 Escape XLT Sport's Package with Nav and all the bell and whistles. I decided to get that system removed and paid for a better system.

I like your setup, I got a quick question for you? Are you running all stock, or did you upgrade to the big three?

I just got a Rockford Fosgate Power T1000-1BDCP installed with 2 12" P3 Subs from Fosgate and I was going to add an Alpine MRP-F300 amp to power my New Alpine SPR17S components with a set of Alpine SPR-57C.

I also got it a cap rated at 1 fd but I don't want to buy a yellow top battery..I kept the stock HU since I have the NAV package. Any inputs would help.

Thanks,
xStatezOfMindZx
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
70 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
I am still running all stock for battery and terminals. I don't have a lot of juice drawn from the 2 amps to need anything upgraded right now. Plus I didn't want to touch any of the factory terminal wiring for fear of any warranty denied claims. You never know. Everything I have done can be reversed so far. That is why I got the $$ PAC harness and didn't cut any wires. The only wires that were cut were speaker wires inside of the doors.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
33 Posts
I am still running all stock for battery and terminals. I don't have a lot of juice drawn from the 2 amps to need anything upgraded right now. Plus I didn't want to touch any of the factory terminal wiring for fear of any warranty denied claims. You never know. Everything I have done can be reversed so far. That is why I got the $$ PAC harness and didn't cut any wires. The only wires that were cut were speaker wires inside of the doors.
Good info, thanks. I am going to get my second amp and components put in next week. I'll let people know if my amps are stressing the stock gear.

Did you Dyno your ride? I did notice that the back window and side panels shake alot so I got to turn down the bass -12 db. I did the block test this morning and I was able to get 3 blocks of bass from my P3's.

I don't drive like that, but I just like that extra Earthquake noise when needed:lol:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
70 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Actually nothing rattles in mine with all of the soundproofing I did. CLD tiles, MLV and CCF in all places really add to the sound. The car is extremely quiet outside of the vehicle, even with the sound blasting.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
33 Posts
Ok, It has been a week since I added my 2nd amp...(Alpine MRP-F300) to my system. I also replaced all four stock speakers and replaced them with 2 sets of Alpine SPR-17S Components speakers.

Now I have all the highs and lows playing nice with each other. I added a HIGH/Low filter lines to the stock head unit because nobody makes a double DIN adapter in Glossy Piano Black finish yet.

I thinking about added soundproofing, how much did you use and what did you spend?

Pushing 1,400 total watts with 4 GA wiring running 1 Fd Cap with everything stock on battery and wiring on main electrical system.

No dimming lights, but was able to notice a slight dim starting at 90% max amp gain. Inside dimming not an issue, nor outside dimming either.

The stock HU sounds great without an aftermarket unit once you got your subs and components speakers hooked up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
70 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
I spent about $350 for total soundproofing. 40 CLD tiles, butyl rope, MLV and CCF for all 4 doors, cargo area (rear hatch, both 1/4 panels and floor) and front/rear floors. Don from sounddeadenershowdown.com is the man who hooked me up with the goods. I took a LONG time to get it all in, but well worth it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
33 Posts
I spent about $350 for total soundproofing. 40 CLD tiles, butyl rope, MLV and CCF for all 4 doors, cargo area (rear hatch, both 1/4 panels and floor) and front/rear floors. Don from sounddeadenershowdown.com is the man who hooked me up with the goods. I took a LONG time to get it all in, but well worth it.
Thanks for the link and info. I think that $350 is a little bit more than what I had in mind, but I'll check out Don's info. I don't have a garage so I would have to pay a shop to install it which would cost me another $150 in labor.:yikes:

Do you really need 90%? Anybody use a db meter?
I did, I was able to reach 145.5 db SPL with my meter. I only use a gain of -10db max when I demo the system, I have it set mostly at less than 40% gain at volume # 3 out of 50. I can almost push 0 db but that is too close for comfort! I get about 1% T.H.D and tend to only listen to the system at -50db to -60db usually.

All clean power with all clean bass with a sealed box 2 chambers with 3.5 cubic ft which peaks at 20 Hz for the bass. I like the sealed box sound verses the ported or tuned boxes. I listen to all types of music so hip hop, jazz, r&b, classical, country, metal and so forth sounds clean and tight. :cornut:
 
1 - 20 of 28 Posts
Top