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my 94 ford ranger 3.0 shredded the dist. gear at 110k mi. the cam gear did not appear to show much wear so i just replaced the dist gear but less than 50 mi. later i have 2 dist gears that look identical and are both shredded. is my oil pump going bad and causing exessive friction? i must note that my oil filter was not changed for 60,000 mi. i just added oil when needed due to an unbelievable work schedule and 180mi. commute. but the oil was finally changed a few hundred mi b 4 the gear went south. bad filter? clogged oil passage to dist gear? is this common and how do i fix it so it will last for more than a couple hundred miles?
 

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You don't change your oil or filter for 60,000 miles and you come on here looking for help and advise? Go buy a new engine and take better care of this one. Your cam bearings are probably done!!!
 

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Sorry, I agree with the other 2 post on this one. You should NEVER let an engine go that many miles without an oil change. There are too many places to get an oil change in 15 minutes or less, time is not an excuse for poor maintenance habits. You more than likely need a new engine. While working for Ford in Los Angeles, I saw an engine that the owner had done this very thing. He wasn't as fortunate. Rod went through the side of the block. When the oil pan came off, there was no oil in the engine, only sludge. I would almost bet, yours is the same way.
 

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I would run get the crankcase cleaned out, drop the pan would be best, but you might be able to just dump a can of Seafoam in the oil, then run for 10 minutes, and change the oil again. This will break apart all the sludge and crap in the engine.... It may work. (You'll notice the oil coming out is chunky and black, this is the crap in the engine)

Sea Foam | Tech Info - Gas Engines

I had a similar problem on a remanufactured engine, and it required replacing the camshaft (the gear on the camshaft was damaged, causing the camshaft position sensor gear to grind down.
 

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Essex, he didn't say his oil wasn't changed for 110k miles. If you knew english you could figure out he said the engine had 110k miles on it when the gear shredded. He said he gave it oil changes whenever it needed it like normal people do. I had the same exact problem with my '93 3.0 v6 ranger. The problem was either the bearings as the other guy posted or your camshaft timing was off and needed slowed down. I'm thinking the last owner probably advanced it to give it a little more acceleration not knowing he was destroying the dist. gear by doing so. So I would try either of those options. If these fail, i would look into a new engine as well.
 

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Essex, he didn't say his oil wasn't changed for 110k miles. If you knew english you could figure out he said the engine had 110k miles on it when the gear shredded. He said he gave it oil changes whenever it needed it like normal people do. I had the same exact problem with my '93 3.0 v6 ranger. The problem was either the bearings as the other guy posted or your camshaft timing was off and needed slowed down. I'm thinking the last owner probably advanced it to give it a little more acceleration not knowing he was destroying the dist. gear by doing so. So I would try either of those options. If these fail, i would look into a new engine as well.

Interesting subject that's close to my own heart. Put a Ford motorsport cam in my 65 289 during rebuild in '10. Rebuilder advised me I needed a brass gear because of cam change. This isn't unusual with aftermarket cams, but cam mfr should be consulted re: correct gear for the particular cam. I took the teeth nearly right off a brass gear in about 4000 miles. My hi-po parts guy, a very knowledgeable Ford guy says that's not unusual with brass gears. The intent is that the brass gear is "sacrificial" He sold me a plastic or carbon fiber gear which is supposed to last much longer. Even it's showing some degree of wear around 5000 miles, although less so than brass gear. Ford racing says that with the Ford motorsport cam, you're supposed to use a steel gear (not the "iron" gear originally installed on distributor)
However, if our friend is using the original cam, you would certainly wonder what caused the problem in his case. I change my oil - lots. I suspect that in our friend's case, even though the old oil may be a factor, he has something else going on.
The $64,000. question is what?
 

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Interesting subject that's close to my own heart. Put a Ford motorsport cam in my 65 289 during rebuild in '10. Rebuilder advised me I needed a brass gear because of cam change. This isn't unusual with aftermarket cams, but cam mfr should be consulted re: correct gear for the particular cam. I took the teeth nearly right off a brass gear in about 4000 miles. My hi-po parts guy, a very knowledgeable Ford guy says that's not unusual with brass gears. The intent is that the brass gear is "sacrificial" He sold me a plastic or carbon fiber gear which is supposed to last much longer. Even it's showing some degree of wear around 5000 miles, although less so than brass gear. Ford racing says that with the Ford motorsport cam, you're supposed to use a steel gear (not the "iron" gear originally installed on distributor)
However, if our friend is using the original cam, you would certainly wonder what caused the problem in his case. I change my oil - lots. I suspect that in our friend's case, even though the old oil may be a factor, he has something else going on.
The $64,000. question is what?
I had mine tore apart. Put new camshaft in it even though the gear was fine on the stock one. Tried brass and steel gears for the distributor and all were destroyed. Oil was fine, put new oil and filter on it as soon as I bought the truck. It was definitely a timing problem in my opinion. If reverted to original timing, your truck should be slow as molasses but shouldn't have a problem anymore.
 
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