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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i took my instrument panel out today to replace the regulator, thinking that is what was causing my fuel reading trouble... anyway:

did that, slapped everything back together & tried to start the car... it turned about 1/4 and it just stopped as if i let go of the key. i gave it another try thinking maybe i slipped off early... nothing, nada- zilch. no clicks, no smoke, no nothing from the starter (its brand new- maybe 5 starts on it).

everything works as i think it should electrically, except of course it starting.

so... i start checking fuses- all look ok (the only ones are under/behind the headlight switch, right?).. then i put the old regulator back in, paying attention to everything looking ok before putting the cluster back in again. still nothing.

im at a loss here fellas... im not too experienced with older cars, its so simple i can't comprehend how to troubleshoot it.

i tested the ignition switch by playing with a multimeter and the starter solenoid, i know the wires from the switch to the solenoid are good, but how do i test the solenoid itself? put a lead on the pos lug and a lead on the starter lug & turn the key?

pete
 

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Please Post a picture.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
dumbass of the day!!!


....... went out this morning with a fresh brain....

put it in park, started right up.... LOL. i must have put it in gear for a little more room when i took the cluster out. god i feel like an idiot...

pete
 

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Hey,pete , as Whoopi Goldberd once stated," He who is without dogs*!t on his sneaker, take the first step on the white carpet!"
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
the biggest pain is, the new regulator didn't help squat, so back to the drawing board on that one...

for some reason fuel reads exactly half of what's in the tank. i don't know what the scale is on the factory temp gauge, but when the little sunpro under the dash says 210, the factory temp is right in the middle... so maybe i have a problem with both gauges, or maybe its just the fuel.

i guess its time to look at the fuel level sender.... i can live with the temp gauge being retarded... but id like to know when im about to run out of gas.

pete
 

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Welcome to the World of no electric gauge/sending unit used in mass auto production being "in spec".

To be honest, maybe the Sunpro is wrong, maybe it is the stock equipment. Only way to determine is to check against varified equipment.

The factory gauges are supposed to able to be checked by reading the amount of ohms at certain levels of fuel, temp, etc. But what are the specs? (I only remember this because I am living with one of those GM things and the shop manual states the ohms for the fuel gauge readings).

The electrical sending units which bolt into the engine block vary in quality/readings too. 210 degrees is TOO HOT for a Ford engine as the engines from the factory back then ran at 180 degrees. Hate to say this but stop at a radiator shop and have them measue the actual temp of the coollant vs what the Sunpro unit states.

Oh, and if it is a recently purchased Sunpro, the parts were made in "that country" which doesn't know the meaning of "quality control". as long as people in North America (and oz, and NZ) continue to buy their junk why should they worry about "quality"??? (Words from a recently forced-into-retirement-because-of-no-work US citizen)
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
the sunpro has been in there since before my dad picked up the car circa 94 or so... who knows how long its been in there.

i just pulled an electric autometer out of my truck.. i'll hook it up and see what it says.

pete
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
great.. now the instrument lights, brake lights, radio- all no worky.. ::sigh::
 

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Check your grounds.
Good grounds or bad grounds will increase or decrease resistance in a circuit.

You can check the sender unit with a digital volt meter, when your tank is at different levels.
1 or 2 ohms at full tank
22 ohms at half tank
73 ohms at empty tank.

These numbers are guestimates based on values for Broncos.
They were pretty accurate for a '62 falcon.
 

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one gallon

the biggest pain is, the new regulator didn't help squat, so back to the drawing board on that one...

for some reason fuel reads exactly half of what's in the tank. i don't know what the scale is on the factory temp gauge, but when the little sunpro under the dash says 210, the factory temp is right in the middle... so maybe i have a problem with both gauges, or maybe its just the fuel.

i guess its time to look at the fuel level sender.... i can live with the temp gauge being retarded... but id like to know when im about to run out of gas.

pete
Pete, this is something i do with every vehicle, put a gallon of gas in a safe secure place in the trunk, and if the car is legal,drive it till it runs out. that is a guaranteed way of finding "true E" on the gauge
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Pete, this is something i do with every vehicle, put a gallon of gas in a safe secure place in the trunk, and if the car is legal,drive it till it runs out. that is a guaranteed way of finding "true E" on the gauge
i see the logic, but that wont work.

anything less than 1/2 tank the gauge reads empty & doesn't move. when i top off the tank, the gauge reads 1/2 full. i travel with a few spare gallons in the trunk just in case. i could live with a shotty gauge as long as it was somewhat accurate- like, if true empty meant 1/4 on the gauge or something.... but the way it is now, i have no clue how much is in there after i run through 1/2 tank. i've just been topping it off when the gauge reads E (even though there's still a half tank in there).

i drive it so infrequently i'd need a notepad to keep track of how far i drove after the gauge hits E.. dont wanna do that so i just keep gas in it and a few spare gallons if i want to push it.

there has to be a loose wire in this thing for my other issue (cluster lights, radio, brake lights)... i must have jarred something when i took the speedo cable out to remove the cluster. the fuel gauge isn't related- its been doing that forever... the new issues just popped up when i tried to fix it.

pete
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
well, it was a ground issue. makes sense in hindsight because the dash lights would always flutter on and off if i moved the dimmer. i guess pulling the cluster out finally broke whatever ground used to be crappy, i sure cant find it.

playing around and moving the cluster around, i found the lights would come on only if the odo assembly was touching the dash.. so, i wired up a ground & we're all good.

the radio not working was a separate issue- turned out one of the fuses was loose. stuck a little piece of junk in there for more pressure.

it's interesting how the brake lights are tied into the cluster, but not the blinkers. grounds do funny things i know...

all i gotta say is: i can't believe how difficult it is to poke around under the dash in these things.... seats don't recline, wheel doesn't tilt.... lol, my back hurts.
 

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Pete,
Glad you got it fixed, and thanks for posting back! This way others can learn from your experience. Enjoy the weekend tooling around in your Falcon without the fear of running out of gas :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
LOL- the gas gauge problem is still there... so after all this, I'm back at square one, with a gas gauge that doesn't read correctly!! i just uncovered all these other problems trying to fix it.

haha- i don't mind, i need to learn the ins and outs of this car anyways. no better way to learn than break stuff and figure it out!!
pete
 
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