Front brakes on my 66 are getting worn out and rather than just replacing them I'd like to do a disc conversion.
I don't have a booster and it's the single chamber master cylinder. Not worried about going to power, not struggling as is.
I'm not looking to spend a lot on top dollar kit. I was more attracted to the Ebay setup. Guy makes brackets and you use 97 S-10 calipers and 68 mustang rotors. I found all other needed parts and total comes out to $450 using stainless lines and drilled+slotted rotors.
Dearborn's kit is the same thing minus d+s rotors and stainless lines. And still have to fab lines from master to caliper.
I'm leaning toward the Ebay brackets.
Will I need a dual master cylinder? Proportioning valve?
I went to dfbrakes.com and pieced a power disc set together with drilled rotors for $844 with shipping. Here was the description:
FORD GALAXIE MERCURY FULLSIZE CARS COMPLETE POWER DISC BRAKE CONVERSION FROM (( DIRECT FIT BRAKES INC. )) OUT OF GLENDALE, ARIZONA DIRECT FIT BRAKES NEW COMPLETE POWER DISC BRAKE CONVERSION. NO MODIFICATIONS NEEDED. JUST BOLTS IN IN A FEW HOURS. THE WHOLE CONVERSION ON AVERAGE TAKES ABOUT 2-3 HOURS TO COMPLETE. WITH FACTORY ALL FACTORY PARTS THAT YOU CAN GO TO ANY LOCAL AUTO PARTS STORE FOR REPLACEMENT PARTS. COMPLETE NEW POWER DISC BRAKE SYSTEM , FORD ROTORS , SPINDALS, BACKING PLATES, CALIPER BRACKETS, WHEEL BEARINGS , SEALS , HOSES AND LINES , BRAKE PADS , BRAKE CALIPERS , BRAND NEW BOOSTER MASTER CYLINDER , PROPORTIONING VALVE , ALL HARDWARE, AND A COMPLETE PARTS LIST AND WITH INSTRUCTIONS. PLUS A 24 HOUR HOT LINE TO ANSWER ANY QUESTIONS DURING INSTALLATION. WITH NO MODIFICATIONS MEANS YOU CAN GO BACK TO AN ALL ORIGINAL CAR AT ANYTIME. AS YOU CAN SEE IN THE PICTURES IT IS ONE OF THE BEST INVESTMENTS YOU CAN DO FOR YOUR CAR. NOW YOU CAN DRIVE YOUR CAR IN THE RAIN AND KNOW YOU CAN STOP WITH EASE. THIS IS A COMPLETE KIT WITH NO OTHER PARTS TO BUY. COMPLETE!!!!!!!!!
Hope it's not too late but the simplest and least expensive route is getting the spindles/calipers/rotors from a '77-'79 T-bird/Cougar/LTD II. They bolt right up, no d**king around with aftermarket companies and their custom made brackets to adapt the brakes from other makes/models. Only one very minor mod, obviously the brake hose, and a relatively minor mod, the tie rod flange or pad is thicker on the '77-'79 spindles and the hole in the stud will not be high enough past the castle nut to slide the cotter pin through. You can either mill off (IIRC) an 1/8 or 1/16 of an inch (from the top side of the pad) which is what I did, or use the outer tie rods from a '70 Lincoln. The '77-'79 adjusting threads are larger then the '67s and will not work with the adjustment collars. The Lincoln still has the smaller threads and the longer (or just a higher drilled hole) stud.
Note I personally have not verified the Lincoln tie rods but several others have reported they work just right.
I also use a master cylinder from a late '80s Econoline van fits the firewall perfectly, just had to use the push rod from the original master cylinder and obviously ran new lines lines. The whole setup works perfectly.
I posted about this a couple of years back.....1970 'Bird/Mark III brakes onto a 66 complete with pictures etc. Already had the power brake stuff, just changed to a two pot master cylinder to get rid of the single point of failure stock unit!
Dig a bit deeper and you'll find it! I think the most I spent was for new rotors and it took 5 to get 2 good ones (in spec!)...was the SNAFU. Rest of the stuff, caliper kits, bearings, hoses, are all available new or aftermarket (hoses).
Worked FANTASTIC!!!!! (This was in an LTD also....)