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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Stock pushrods seem to be 8.350 i believe but the ones I pulled out were barely over 8".
I'm looking to replace them since they're not expensive but I'm a little puzzled. There's a big difference between 8" and 8.350 ( so called stock rods)
I am rebuilding the top & bottom of this 200. The cylinder head will have the 1.5" & 1.75 intake/exhaust valves with steel seats along with 302 springs. The bottom will be completely rebuilt with new 264/274 cam along with all new internals.
Before I buy new rods id like to get someone's advice as to whether I should just order a stock set or go with something different. Thr rocker assembly bolts (in pics) look like they're 3/4's of the way down so that could be why they're a little on the short size...
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For a different engine with hydrallic lifters I researched (A MEL block) the factory had a stock push rod and .060" longer and .060" shorter. Neither of those choices world work. So I found this Custom Pushrods | Smith Brothers Pushrods
So the parts catalog may give length.

With that said you have adjustable rocker arms so not sure you need adjustable push rods or that the push rod makes much difference.

You might want to get the head mounted on the block and install the rocker arm before you pull the trigger on a push rod that is too short.

The cam isn't stock and the push rods may end up being non-stock as well.

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
For a different engine with hydrallic lifters I researched (A MEL block) the factory had a stock push rod and .060" longer and .060" shorter. Neither of those choices world work. So I found this Custom Pushrods | Smith Brothers Pushrods
So the parts catalog may give length.

With that said you have adjustable rocker arms so not sure you need adjustable push rods or that the push rod makes much difference.

You might want to get the head mounted on the block and install the rocker arm before you pull the trigger on a push rod that is too short.

The cam isn't stock and the push rods may end up being non-stock as well.

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I checked their site but they don't have a specific pushrod length. Mostly custom. Hate to spend 30 bucks on a pushrod length tool when I can almost buy all the pushrods for the same price. More research needed I guess.
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I have the answer to the original question.
Someone has messed with your 200!

C0DZ 6565 B is a 65 Mustang 170 CID push rod that the parts cat says is about 8 1/8"
C4DZ 6565 A is a 65 and later 170 or 200 CID push rod for Fairlane, Falcon and Maverick that is 8.35" AND 65 to 70 Mustang 200 CID push rod

The C4DZ 6565 A comes in two other variations .060 over and .060 under
C4DZ 6565 B
C4DZ 6565 C

The short ones came from a 170 that was in an early Mustang

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I have the answer to the original question.
Someone has messed with your 200!

C0DZ 6565 B is a 65 Mustang 170 CID push rod that the parts cat says is about 8 1/8"
C4DZ 6565 A is a 65 and later 170 or 200 CID push rod for Fairlane, Falcon and Maverick that is 8.35" AND 65 to 70 Mustang 200 CID push rod

The C4DZ 6565 A comes in two other variations .060 over and .060 under
C4DZ 6565 B
C4DZ 6565 C

The short ones came from a 170 that was in a Mustang

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That would probably make since. Whoever had this before me has "played" with it to keep her running but was kind of a hack at the same time. I've noticed things here and there along the way that would indicate such....such as 3 different type lifters but all the same .875 diameter...broken manifold studs. Broken oil pan studs, some missing washers. Starter bolts that were hand tight. So the short pushro
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ds wouldn't be much of a stretch. Probably found a set and used the lash adjusting nut to make up the loss in length. That's why I thought it was interesting that the adjustments were about 75 to 80% used, as in the picture. Im going to sum it all up and believe that the 8.35 x 5/16" pushrods will be correct for this 200 and ill be able to back off the lash adjusting nut to a more normal place.
Thanks action...as always ..you come through...
Ps...see how far that adjusting nut is in the middle pic ? That's what made me go hmmmmm....
 

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Yeah I noticed.

Maybe the PO lost a push rod or bent one and grabbed a used one from an earlier 170. Hey it's the same engine family right?!
Oh look it is a little shorter. No problem, just turn down the screw in the rocker arm and put the cover on it. No one will see it anywat!

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
For a different engine with hydrallic lifters I researched (A MEL block) the factory had a stock push rod and .060" longer and .060" shorter. Neither of those choices world work. So I found this Custom Pushrods | Smith Brothers Pushrods
So the parts catalog may give length.

With that said you have adjustable rocker arms so not sure you need adjustable push rods or that the push rod makes much difference.

You might want to get the head mounted on the block and install the rocker arm before you pull the trigger on a push rod that is too short.

The cam isn't stock and the push rods may end up being non-stock as well.

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Contacted Smith Brothers and was finally able to order my pushrods !! No one...and I mean No One had these available or in stock. Gave them all the length/ diameters of ball and cup and I'm good to
go !!
Even Summit racing only had 8 pushrods with no future pushrods available for the distant future. Smith Brothers has a one week turnaround and I'm happy with that.
Thanks Action for the much needed information on this company. You both came through big time and I'm creeping ever so closer to gathering all the parts necessary to complete this build.
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Taking any assembly down and bringing it back up with correct parts is not usually swift.

And in your case it seems you are fixing some past sins of a previous owner.

The reward will be in a good running engine that will last a long time if well maintained. Something that some owners are not willing to do.

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Taking any assembly down and bringing it back up with correct parts is not usually swift.

And in your case it seems you are fixing some past sins of a previous owner.

The reward will be in a good running engine that will last a long time if well maintained. Something that some owners are not willing to do.

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I'm definitely a "One & Done" kinda guy. I really don't want AAA to be my friend. While I'm waiting on a cam and the late timing chain from Vintage Inlines I've been looking at the front disc brake conversion kit from different vendors. I'll stick with the 4 lug only because all 4 of my aluminum rims are in great shape and match. I did give you and the Falcon forum a shout out to the Smith Brothers and he was very appreciative of having him in the forum as a pushrod vendor. Sometimes its the little things. And yes, I'm glad I'm going to go through both the Top & Bottom of the 200 inline six. It'll be a long road back but I'm sure it will be well worth it. Considering a decent ride today starts around 35 to 40k I think I can have this car cruising to the tune of well under 10k all said and done.....
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Falcon/Comet and some of the early pony cars are really a simple machine. Made for a different time in that car was treated as almost a used car even when brand new. It was a solution the company put forth to the increased pressure from imports. And really the company wanted to produce full sized vehicles in all of the flavors. The Falcon/Comet is a pre-curser to Pinto/Bobcat Escort/Lynx which got a lot more money for design and engineering versus the Falcon platform. And with decades since the last one rolled off the line, the popularity for the first non-full sized Ford is pretty high!

Glad you are keeping the six!

The 4 lug drums are really not that bad. There is just more maintenance than disc/drum.

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Falcon/Comet and some of the early pony cars are really a simple machine. Made for a different time in that car was treated as almost a used car even when brand new. It was a solution the company put forth to the increased pressure from imports. And really the company wanted to produce full sized vehicles in all of the flavors. The Falcon/Comet is a pre-curser to Pinto/Bobcat Escort/Lynx which got a lot more money for design and engineering versus the Falcon platform. And with decades since the last one rolled off the line, the popularity for the first non-full sized Ford is pretty high!

Glad you are keeping the six!

The 4 lug drums are really not that bad. There is just more maintenance than disc/drum.

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Pinto/Bobcat Escort/Lynx...I don't really see them as a rebuildable vehicle. I've seen a 327 in a Vega from a friend of mine but I don't know of anyone shoe horning a 351 into a Pinto...lol..
I drive past a AMC Pacer..aka...fish tank.. that someone recently parked in their yard...why ? Who knows...
I'm hoping with some dirty hands, a little blood, sweat and tears I'll be enjoying this Falcon for some time. I don't think it'll ever stop being a work in progress...but that's why we do it...
 

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I am not aware of much love for Escort/Lynx. Billed as a World Car it has it roots in Europe.

As for Pinto, that actually that is (or was) a very hot ticket. Used in a lot of racing circles. Finding a used non-wagon Pinto is not an easy task. In good condition the asking price is well into 5 figures.

And I have seen a 429 in a Pinto. An experiment and was not operational when I saw it as the owner was still making things fit. It was to be a a drag car I believe. The slicks connected to the 9" occupied nearly all of the rear area. Technically it was a Pinto in body only. Built on a tube frame the metal pieces were made to fit the frame.

As an edit I found a pic of the underside of a Pinto showing the slicks, showing drums for the stopping power on the rear.

Pinto-Wagon-Big-Tire-Drag-Car-13.jpg


And yeah I saw a similar looking Vega.

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Ya...thats really not fair whe you tube a car and shell it to look like something its not. I know its done all the time but neither are street drivable. As much as I'd like to get 200 horsepower out of this 200 inline six I don't think I'll be doing any 13 second quarter mile runs anytime soon. I'm sure with enough money anything possible.
On a side note...why are people obsessed with putting in the C5 tranny instead of keeping the tried and true top loader C4 ??
 

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Not sure the answer for the trans question. My guess would be a C5 is the same as a C4 except it has a lock up torque converter. And the automatic is a lot easier to drive than moving a stick around.

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