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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
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Cobalt blue Plastic bottle Bottle Machine Water bottle
Motor vehicle Steering part Steering wheel Automotive exterior Vehicle door

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Started my winter project. Dash, Instrument Panel, Wiring and maybe steering wheel.

I just pulled out the main panel. My plan is to take it all apart, replace the bulbs, fix what does not work, which is exerything except the speedometer:) Paint the panel, replace the plastic cover etc.

Last year was my first project (engine and tranny) so I am starting with the sense I really don’t know what I am doing (yet)!

Few questions for the experts.

1. My odometer never worked,any ideas on what I would do to see if the issue is the cable other? When I removed the speedometer cable it just came out, and, what looked like the end was just a bare wire. Is that correct?

2.There was no wire to my clock, which is why I am assuming it did not work. Anyone think this bare wire (white with the red piece added and then the white and green stripe) is for the clock?

3. The old radio did not work either and all the wires to the radio were cut off. Not sure the wires come from here or not, I’m thinking no.

4. I would like to work on this and test most things, such as the bulbs with out connecting it back to my dash. Any ideas on how I might set this up.



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Investing in a shop manual would be a good move. There may be a smaller wiring diagram in there.
The larger more readable version is this
Original Large 1967 Ford Dealer Wiring Diagrams Schematics - All Models | eBay
Down side is it covers every model and is rather expensive

All light bulbs can be tested with an ohm meter. And now would be the time to upgrade to LED if that is a consideration.

Radios and clocks may not work because of dust and debris. The clock has power all the time. It only needs power every minute or so to re-wind. That rewind mechanism has a set of points. It is common for those points to burn out. Cleaning or resurfacing the points many times brings clock back to working order. The radio is more complex. Likely an AM radio will have 4 wires. Two for the instrument panel speaker, one for power from the fuse box and one for illumination that comes from the head light switch. The ground is supplied by the radio case. Typically a big stud on the back.

The speedo cable has an outer and inner piece. The inner cable has a square end that engages the speed head. The outer end either has a plastic clip on the end or a metal coupling to keep both engaged.

Looking forward to seeing the documenting of the journey

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Check out Howard at Old car alley on YT, he is in the process of restoring the cluster and dash on his 66 Galaxie Convertible,has very in formative videos,he goes in depth on the the intracate stuff on the spedo and gauges.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
@Dominick 1 I think I want to give this project a go first! It’s dam cold up here and with no heater in my garage I can do some of this work on my kitchen table. For me all this is new so... That said, I may want to off load it... or my wife may kick me back into the garage anyway 😀. I will still check out the site. Thanks
 

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It’s dam cold up here and with no heater in my garage I can do some of this work on my kitchen table. For me all this is new so... That said, I may want to off load it... or my wife may kick me back into the garage anyway 😀.
I live in Phoenix on purpose!

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Got the dash pad off tonight. Happy that the new dash pad will fit! Trying to decide if I should remove the full dash frame and get it painted... or should I try and paint it while in the car.
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Do not paint in the car!

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Action is spot on! Take the dash assembly out of the car,takes a little time and effort but itakes prep and paint 10x easier, plus no masking to do, I suggest if you diy your dash go to your local auto paint supplier and get the SEM interior paint in cans, that's what I used on the dash of my 67 fastback mustang and it came out great,as for me the dash is a weld in assembly in my stang,but with all the interior out it made masking and painting somewhat easier 👍
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
@Cacstang, i will check to see if mine is welded or bolted and go from there. I do agree with your u and @Action about not painting in the car. I checked out the Youtube channel u suggested... gold mine doe me! Helped me decide I might also remove and paint the steering column as well.
 

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Hey man glad you found Howard's videos helpful, he goes very in depth on his video on the process he uses and how to do repairs,if I recall he was a Ford mechanic in the 70's at a local dealership in his town, he is very meticulous at his work. My Dad had a 67 Fairlane hardtop 390 4 speed car a few years back,but for the life of me I can't remember if the dash assembly in it was a bolted or welded assembly! Keep us updated on your progress, can't wait to see it finished!
 

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The pictures in the MPC look like it is bolted in. The illustrations are not the best.
The shop manual would confirm that.

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
Having trouble getting the clock out. More specifically getting the post for the clock off so I can pull off the face of the instrument panel.
I can turn the flat head screw but it seems stripped. It turns but does not come out.

I tried holding the metal stem with pliers and then tried to twist the silver knob with my hand but it will not budge. I don’t want to break it. Any ideas? Should I drill out the screw?

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@67-Fairlane -Tim, Dad had the same problem with his dash cluster as I recall,we never got the stem off the clock, Dad had to cut the stem to get it apart,good thing was he had 2 more clock's from eBay that were already apart,and we used that clock for parts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
@Cacstang thanks man, really good to know. I can see rust on the stem so I may try some WD40, then try and drill the head off the screw. If not I may follow your dad’s route.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
@Cacstang... drilled of the screw head, however, it still would not come off. Then I cut 1/8 of an inch off the stem; still would not budge. Here is a pic... looks like overtime the plastic got fused to the stem. So I ended up cutting off just enough.

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@67 Fairlane Tim, that's exactly the same way me and Dad got his apart, it really sucks, I think now Dennis Carpenter makes a replacement for the clock knob,but don't quote me on that, one of the eBay clock's dad had , had a good knob with it,so that's what we used when we reassembled his cluster, look on Carpenter's web site and see if it's available, glad you got it apart without destroying the clock or the cluster.👍
 
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