67 falcon 4 door
241 - 260 of 264 Posts
So i had a thought, if i could make a plat that would turn the carb 90 deg. then the peddle rod at fire wall would be in line with the throttle linkage at the carb and maybe it would be a simple set up.
i will try to take a pic of what i am thinking of.
a 90 deg mounting flange like this of some what
![Font Circle Auto part Composite material Metal]()
i will try to take a pic of what i am thinking of.
a 90 deg mounting flange like this of some what
well last night i did a quick moke up as if the carb was at a 90 deg.
The linkage would be a ez connection, but the peddle would have a very short travel.
that won't work, so back to the linkage extension idea.
![Font Science Symmetry Parallel Diagram]()
i think if i buy an quick disconnect link rod and get the extension made, it just might work.
something like this.
![Nickel Metal Auto part Titanium Cylinder]()
The linkage would be a ez connection, but the peddle would have a very short travel.
that won't work, so back to the linkage extension idea.
i think if i buy an quick disconnect link rod and get the extension made, it just might work.
something like this.
So-far i got the linkage built and carb linkage extension fitted to the carb and i picked up the other bits to hopefully finish it today. i ended up going to tractor supply to get the ball joints and the all thread.
made a new plate that was a better fit
had to take off the gas linkage from the lower area and drill it out to fit the new ball joint.
Here are the pics of the processes.
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made a new plate that was a better fit
had to take off the gas linkage from the lower area and drill it out to fit the new ball joint.
Here are the pics of the processes.
from there it was test fit to get the correct length of the all thread and movment correct.
i had to cut about 3 in off the all thread and bend the lower linkage arm for clearance of the new linkage.
![Fluid Automotive fuel system Automotive tire Rim Gas]()
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movement works great.
next step is the add gas line, make a new automatic choke heat line, taper the lower carb. inlet and vacuum advance line.
i had to cut about 3 in off the all thread and bend the lower linkage arm for clearance of the new linkage.
movement works great.
next step is the add gas line, make a new automatic choke heat line, taper the lower carb. inlet and vacuum advance line.
Luckly i had some copper tubing laying around but i had to make a trip to town to get the fittings.
i bent it so to clear all the linkage and rout it down by the header pipes to pull the hot air.
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i will have to get a heat resent clamp to hold ii in place cus you know it will make a rattle sound.
so i marked out the opening from the gasket on the inlet and with a drimenol and wire wheel to smooth it out, i put a dissent taper to the inlet.
![Fluid Gas Metal Auto part Automotive exhaust]()
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and of course, the gas line was the ez part.
![Motor vehicle Automotive lighting Automotive tire Headlamp Electrical wiring]()
after a few cranks and the boil filled up it fired up.
i bent it so to clear all the linkage and rout it down by the header pipes to pull the hot air.
i will have to get a heat resent clamp to hold ii in place cus you know it will make a rattle sound.
so i marked out the opening from the gasket on the inlet and with a drimenol and wire wheel to smooth it out, i put a dissent taper to the inlet.
and of course, the gas line was the ez part.
after a few cranks and the boil filled up it fired up.
I can't remember how to have the videos in bedded without having to go to a link.
I was going to take it around the block, but it would not start again.
I still need to adjust the carb just a bit. after it runs for a min or so i think it's flooding it out.
I might have to check the float to make sure it is working correctly.
You never know during shipping, i could have got tossed around and dropped who knows.
I also need to get an air filter for it.
This morning i went out and it start up first crank, so yea it needs a little adjusting.
I was going to take it around the block, but it would not start again.
I still need to adjust the carb just a bit. after it runs for a min or so i think it's flooding it out.
I might have to check the float to make sure it is working correctly.
You never know during shipping, i could have got tossed around and dropped who knows.
I also need to get an air filter for it.
This morning i went out and it start up first crank, so yea it needs a little adjusting.
After playing with this carb a bit it still not working like it needs to. I pulled the top off the carb and the float needle keeps sticking.
A new carb should not have these many problems. when back to the web site to return it and seen on some of the reviews they had the same problem.
Going to return it and get a different brand.
A new carb should not have these many problems. when back to the web site to return it and seen on some of the reviews they had the same problem.
Going to return it and get a different brand.
today is a great day, it's the first time in a long time that i have been able to drive my falcon to work.
over the weekend got the carb on and test drove it around the country and then to town and back with no problems. So it is a great feeling to be back in the seat again. the only things are that it needs an alignment and there is a small leak on the top side of the gas tank right at the crease by the filler tube. i'll do a patch work on that till i can get a new tank. so for now i can only fill it up 3/4 the way.
over the weekend got the carb on and test drove it around the country and then to town and back with no problems. So it is a great feeling to be back in the seat again. the only things are that it needs an alignment and there is a small leak on the top side of the gas tank right at the crease by the filler tube. i'll do a patch work on that till i can get a new tank. so for now i can only fill it up 3/4 the way.
Small little things that make the car.
The door lock knobs on mine where for the most part dry rotted and or missing.
When i was painting the car, they would break when unscrewing them. I thought I'll just buy some more no problem.
Well, the ones you get that say the work are just basic 1 fits all type. the threads don't match the rod. if there are really threads inside or not. The door lock retainers don't even come close to working.
I got one door lock knob halfway on, yet it still needs to be screwed down at least another 1/2". I really think there are no threads inside and as you screw it down it makes the threads. I think I'll get a tap and cut the threads in the rest of them.
On the retainers I'm going to make my own with the 3d printer.
I drew it up in cad and then converted it to a stl file and printed them. I'll post some pics when I get them installed. they look white in the pics but they are gray in real life.
![Tire Automotive tire Material property Font Circle]()
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![Wood Musical instrument Tool Hardwood Rectangle]()
The door lock knobs on mine where for the most part dry rotted and or missing.
When i was painting the car, they would break when unscrewing them. I thought I'll just buy some more no problem.
Well, the ones you get that say the work are just basic 1 fits all type. the threads don't match the rod. if there are really threads inside or not. The door lock retainers don't even come close to working.
I got one door lock knob halfway on, yet it still needs to be screwed down at least another 1/2". I really think there are no threads inside and as you screw it down it makes the threads. I think I'll get a tap and cut the threads in the rest of them.
On the retainers I'm going to make my own with the 3d printer.
I drew it up in cad and then converted it to a stl file and printed them. I'll post some pics when I get them installed. they look white in the pics but they are gray in real life.
241 - 260 of 264 Posts
